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Kheprera

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Everything posted by Kheprera

  1. Oh, I got a haul today. My FLGS was celebrating their 16th year anniversery and had 10% off on all minis.... 2611: Skulls of 8 races (S Garrity) I'm going to do a conversion on 2613 (the new Dark Elf Sorceror) and replace that funny looking thing on the top of his staff with one of these nice skulls 2613: Dark Elf Sorceror (S Garrity) Yes, I already got one of these last week, but I'm doing a conversion. Also, on the one from last week I did some filing on his knife (short sword?) and gave it a wavy look, like on a flamberge or kris knife. It looks cool and nastier that way I think. 2244: Linroc Brightrune (S. Garrity) I wanted some more dwarves in my collection, and I really this horned helmeted, axe-weilding one He'd also make a good Bruenor if I can do a sheild conversion on him. 2141: Alexis Spellsing (S Garrity) I liked the elegance of this mini. She'd be a good one to use for a high level mage, noblewoman, or queen. 2344: Catherine O'Mannon (S Garrity) So sue me. I love Ms. Garrity's work. She'd also make a good druidess, which I play a lot of. 2399: Familiar Pack 2 (S Garrity) It has the little bitty dragon it. It's cute :p 2607: Bjorn, Dwarven Warrior (W Klocke) What? Not Ms Garrity? Yeah, I like Klocke's work, too, and he's a nice hammer and sheild weilding dwarf with no helm. I think he'll make a good mini for my bf's dwarf. 2564: Giant Scarab Beetle (B Olley) You all knew I'd eventually get this one, right? 2538: :Lesser Elementals (J Wiebe) I wanted to practice on the smaller ones before tackling the big ones. 2605: Ulthalokh the Unclean (S Garrity) He's big. He's nasty. I can't wait to make an adventure just to use this mini once I get him painted. 2189: Weapons Pack 1 (B Ridolfi) Can never have enough extra weapons for conversions. 2524: Female Dark Elf Cleric (S Garrity) I love the look of this mini. Still don't know how I'm going to paint her, though. So that's the haul. With the Dragon Mag #300 I got I spent almost $70 today and enjoyed every minute of it. The owner was actually there with his Welsh Corbi's (great, friendly, affectionate dogs that are about as old as the FLGS has been open) and even checked the computer to see if there were some of the minis I wanted in stock (sigh, not all of them were). He offered to special order the ones they didn't have, so I'm going to make a list of what I want and send the list to my Dad as my Birthday/Christmas list and tell him what store to go to. :D Mmmmm... more minis.... I also finally picked up some white Krylon spray primer. I'd go check it out now, but we have a cold front coming in and the wind is blowing way too hard.
  2. All I know is that I'm really glad that I got everything plastic replaced with metal. So much easier to work with. I have no plastic minis. Just don't care for them... but, as lstormhammer would say, your mileage may vary.
  3. My T'char had plastic wings, tail, and front legs. The wings were molded okay, but apparently the plastic had some air bubbles for the tail and front legs, leaving some very nasty looking holes in those pieces. Also, since the tail was plastic and wouldn't bend, I could not get it to attach properly so that the top part of the mane matched that that runs along the back while allowing the mini to stand. I called Ral Partha, rather than emailing them, and talked to a really nice woman. I requested metal pieces to replace those made in plastic (which was all I needed). They sent me the entire figure in metal. Now, for some reason, I HAVE had this problem on the metal wings. I was trying to prime in black, but for some reason it would go on as if it was heavily thinned in water. I've since washed every piece with dishsoap (after a Pine Sol bath to remove old paint so I can try again) and I'm hoping there was some sort of residue left over from the casting that caused this. Needless to say, T'Char has been the bane of my existance and is the reason I gave up painting for about 8 years. I got sick and tired of glueing, painting, hating it and stripping the paint and trying again and again. I don't know what it is about this mini that makes it so difficult to put together and paint. It's no where near as many pieces as the WoTC Black Dragon, but T'Char is a real pain. I got T'Char because in my campaign I had a major villain who was a gigantic red dragon named T'Chareen. I saw how big the mini was and the name and thought "It's fate." (Note, I had this character LONG before T'Char ever hit the shelves). Well, fate has pulled a fast one on me, apparently, since the campaign has long since gone defunct and I still don't have that darned mini together and painted.
  4. T'Char's ankle posts have been filed off. One of them did, indeed, break off while heavily glued. I had a bear of time getting all that glue out of the foot. Now I'm drilling and I'm even pinning the two-part base together. (Who's bright idea was it to have a two part base anyway?)
  5. Pinning isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. I was terrified to start drilling into the mini and worried I was going to drill too far. Now I worry that I haven't drilled far enough, especially on T'Char. Just about everything on that mini needs pinning, and I'm putting three pins on each wing just to be on the safe side. The one I'm concerned about is WoTC's Black Dragon. Large number of pieces and they fit strangely. Two wings, one space for both. Ugh.
  6. It just looks bad, to me, and makes me worry what might happen 15 years down the line (and yes, I've had some of my minis for far longer than that !!)
  7. Where do you get two-part epoxy?
  8. OK in a previous post I asked if the old minis I got from a friend were pewter or lead. †well, lo and behold most are lead, and the sad part is, a large dragon that is among them has lost both of its wings. †The wings are still with it, but how would I reattach them? †I was considering cyanoacrylate glue, is there anything else that would work?
  9. Yeah, I'm sitting here comparing my new Dark Heaven minis to my old Ral Parthas and going... "bleep these are so much bigger they should be EASIER to paint." Of course, it doesn't help to be out of practice. *sigh*
  10. I picked up Greycloud a while ago. I'm going to paint the wings and mane area seperate (at first) from the rest of mini because of the way it fits together. I also recommended pinning the wings. They're heavy.
  11. Woo !! I got some minis today !! 2202 Weapons Pack II (S Garrity): I figured ya always gotta have some extra weapons laying around for conversions and stuff. Two things I like about this pack are the bow and the kris knife. Very sweet. 2613 Dark Elf Sorceror (S Garrity): This is a beautiful mini, however check to see how many the store has and look them all over. My FLGS only had two that I saw, and one had a lot of mold lines and slag hanging from him while the other one had a lot less. Also, there is one part of the mini I don't like, and that's when you're looking face on to it, and the right side of the face where it meets the collar of his vest/robe thing there seems to be some solid metal there. I'm hoping some dark shading will help hide that, otherwise it will look like the collar is attached to his face. I'm thinking about changing out the knife in his hand to the kris from the weapons pack. Otherwise a very sweet mini. 2499 Tomb Wraith (S Garrity): Nice mini and a good one, I think, for beginners. Some mold lines, but nothing too complex that I or some total beginner can't do themselves. Also, the sword seems just a wee bit on the weak side. Otherwise, some excellent work by Ms. Garrity. 2551 Monique Denoir (W Klocke): What? I actually bought something NOT by S Garrity? Haha, yeah, I love her work, but this is a popular and beautiful mini that I've wanted for a while now. Some mold lines and a nasty piece of metal attaching the scabbard to the base, but it was easily removed. Scabbard seems a bit weak, but that's normal for a lot of long, thin pieces of soft metal, eh? 2618 Half Elf Thief (J Johnson): Yeah, I got this to paint as Drizz't, even though the whiney little character himself irritates me sometimes. Very little in the mold lines and almost zero slag. I'm going to have fun painting him. 2546 Death Shroud (B Olley): This pretty yet simplistic mini is something else I bought for practice in new painting techniques. Very few mold lines and I won't have to do much prep on it. Well, those are my findings and wonderful new purchases. :D
  12. I use an old 1 gallon milk container with part of the top cut off to soak my minis in Pine Sol with no melting of plastic, but I'm considering stopping the use of it. Even after 24 hours I've noticed it starts to turn the metal black. Even if I use a wire brush to "polish" the mini up, a couple of hours later it's back to being black, and that's after I've used dishsoap to wash the mini clean with. I'm going to try Lord Ironheart's suggestion for stripper. He says it doesn't discolor the metal, and I'm too worried about destroying the metal or making the paint come out oddly. As for getting paint out of little places, get some beading needles. They're really thin and long and work great. For me anyway.
  13. Actually, I like the Reaper paints. They go on with a matt-like finish already, which is nice, have good coverage, and nice pigments. The only problem I've been experiencing is they dry REALLY fast, which makes it hard for me to learn the art of wet blending, and that's WITH Future and water thinning the paint. And I thin them a lot as well. For about two brush-fulls of paint (I use an old GW brush for this... proper job for that piece of bleep) I'll mix in about two drops (I got some actually droppers like for ears and eyes at a local pharmacy) of Future and four or five drops of water. It can get pretty thick if it's been in the jar too long. The paint jars are nice, as they tend to have well-fitting lids (as opposed to another company) however there have been a couple of instances when I've opened up a brand new jar and had a thick skim of paint on the top. The paint underneath was fine, though. Just my two cents worth.
  14. Uhh, I just checked that auction and it ends in about 2 hours, with zero bids on it. Chances are it'll be posted again with a lower start bid. The sellers tend to do that sometimes (although there might be a reserve on it).
  15. Yup, I use the same name everywhere... Ebay, WoTC forums, Shadowland... Always the same. :D
  16. pfft have a "skip-day" for yourself. You know you need one !!
  17. Lady Tam, I can't express to you how much lstormhammer's (almighty 1st Godlike being among us) suggestion of GURPS: Space is useful. It easily helps you make a solar system, complete with sun/s, moons, planets, and helps you define your world. Using it I made a purely desert planet that had two suns, two or three moons, where the inhabitants basically lived underground. It was, of course, a futuristic world, but they still had magic and nasty creatures. I've also spent a lot of time developing my own world. Still working on it, and it seems to change somewhat every time I do work on my campaign... ("Darn it, no, I WANT the pc's to be able to reach that area of the world somewhat easily.. but I want it to be a mystery also.. argh !!) There was a theory thrown at me by my Archaeology professor one time: That there are some who believe that, by itself, life on Earth could not have evolved without some catalyst. Their theory is that the Earth passed through some sort of "space cloud" that caused this catalyst. I've been pondering the use of this theory in my world to maybe explain so many different races... that different microcosms reacted differently to the "space cloud" and that said cloud also cause some sort of physical catalyst on the planet that brought magic. I'm still working on it though.
  18. It's always better to wait one or two days before an auction ends before bidding. There do get some nasty bidding wars going on where the prices will skyrocket up more than you really want to pay. Normally I try to be nice and will bid if it's 3 days away before end, but if I know there might be some fierce competition I'll wait. I've been hit before by people snagging something I really one just minutes before it ended. I did catch one person one time though, and was able to outbid him mere seconds before the auction ended. It was a sweet win for me :D
  19. Drizz't irritates me. I made a good drow character LONG before he ever appeared. When I got my first printing of the Fiend Folio and read about them I thought "COOL! I'm going to make one, only she's going to be good !!" No, she wasn't a ranger. No, she didn't dual wield swords. No, she didn't have a magical companion friend and never will. But as soon as I try, these days, to introduce her into a group all I get is "Another Drizz't clone?" It's enough to make me pull my hair out. I don't, of course, since that would hurt. Instead I BONK! them. Repeatedly. Much as I do to lstormhammer :p
  20. It's all my brother's fault. Blame him. He got into D&D in high school. I was in Jr. High. He comes home one day and says "I'm going to teach you to play this game." And he proceeded to do just that. Then he introduced me to his friends. One of said friends gave me TWO boxes of Julie Guthries Grenadiers models. I still have those minis. I prize those minis. MINE MINE MINE !! So Ms. Guthrie, if you're reading this, know I've been with you for a LONG time. I started gaming in late 1980. In fact, Guen was in one of those boxes even though she didn't belong. Still don't know where she originally came from. I've been addicted ever since.
  21. Let's play... NAME THAT QUOTE !! I'll start :D This should be an easy one. Let's see who can guess this movie quote: "Right turn, Clyde."
  22. As per the D&D3e Monster Manual: "They have jet-black skin and pale hair, with white being common. They tend to be smaller and thinner than other sorts of elves, and their eyes are usually a vivid red." Now, as I've heard it explained in the Forgotten Realms books (written by various authors), Drow have obsidian or jet black skin, and their eyes are red because of the glow of their "infravision." Now, in 3e they no longer have infravision but dark vision, so I don't know how that would be affected. There are elves with topaz/amber colored eyes, lavender (as in Drizz't), black, brown, etcetera. The reason so many artists paint them as having a bluish or purplish color is because there is no TRUE black in nature. most shadows are just really dark shades of their base color. Thus the highlights appear as being brown, blue, purple, etcetera, depending on the desire of the artists. Not all artists who enjoy painting drow play D&D or even really know the "official" description.
  23. Hahaha, yeah. I do †:laugh: Generally if I really want something I make sure I get it, but if I see your name on something, or any name of someone I know, I won't bid. I don't bid against friends. I'm lucky enough to have a job that gives me extra money every month that equals normally over $300 that I can spend however I desire. And I desire more dragon minis. I desire more minis... I'm also looking for the Ral Partha Wraith (3 in the pack) blister. You can see one of them in the Ewwww thread where I posted Guen. I've lost one of them and need to replace it. Also, I want to paint them all again and see the difference between how I'd paint them now to how I painted them ages ago.
  24. Thank you, Lord Ironheart, for clearing that up. It's hard to find the real story anywhere these days †:D Morgraman: Check this link Ebay RP Marilith The Seller listed it as a "Maralith". I do a daily search for newly listed Ral Partha minis (so if you see my name on something, don't bid please !!) and I found that one yesterday. It hasn't been bid on as of this posting, and there's a Buy It Now option so if you want to pay that much so you won't be outbid, go for it. What's even better is the seller is also in Canada !! I had heard about the destruction of the molds, but only that they had been destroyed. This is probably why some of the Ral Partha minis go for such a pretty penny. I should buy out the ones left at my FLGS and sell them for a profit on Ebay. :laugh: Yeah, there is ONE Ral Partha mini I'm constantly on the lookout for. †01-002 Super Hero on Super Heavy Warhorse with Axe. Base Manufacturing date is 1977. †Here's a pic: If anyone has one they're willing to sell or see it anywhere, please let me know !! †:D
  25. There are also some metal etching tools you can get at Michaels and other such places that might also help. One thing I did get that is good for cleaning minis before primering as well as cleaning your files is a metal brush. They aren't all that expensive and help keep the shavings out of the tiny grooves of the files. They'll last longer than way. I also use them to clean my minis (before I wash them in soap and water). You may think "Won't that scratch the mini?" Actually, it seems to almost polish it to such a bright sheen I'm almost loathe to paint it !!
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