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Everything posted by Kheprera

  1. One other thing... using a bright colored background such as blue, yellow, red, or green can also cause film (this is for those who use film) to pick up too much. I've also noticed, with digital cameras as well, that often people will use a black background on a darkly shaded figure. My advice is to use either a neutral grey (which gives a good contrast to both darks and lights) or a light grey or white. This way your colors won't turn out too weird and the edges of your minis don't blend into the background. For those shooting film, you can go to your local camera store and pick up a "grey card." Normally it's an 18% grey card that is used by professionals so that when the film is developed all the pictures on that roll will have identical exposure and color balance. If you use that as your background, you'd basically be doing the same thing as the pros, and your pics will look all the better for it. :D
  2. We've all had this problem. You're shooting a mini and while the front is clear, the back is fuzzy, or the back is clear, and the front is fuzzy. What's going on? Depth of Field. The number one rule is: The smaller your lens apeture, the greater your depth of field. "What's that mean?" ??? On a lot of SLR and high end digital cameras you'll see what's called the "Apeture ring"... also know as the "f-stop". These are a series of numbers from 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, 2, and 1.4. Not all cameras cover these ranges, and not all cameras will show you what the f-stop is. The thing to remember is that the larger the number, the smaller the opening is, and the longer your shutter will be open (thus requiring the use of a tripod). It's always a good idea to have your camera stabilized in some way when shooting closeup work. For those of you who have a good digital or automatic camera with a macro setting, look in your manual for "depth of field." There should be some instructions on how you can work the depth of field on your particular camera. In this lesson I'm just teaching the basics so once you know you can find out how your own camera works. If you can't find anything on depth of field, let me know and I'll see what I can find out for you. Now, I've seen cameras that set their own shutter speeds and was able to work my depth of field simply by adjusting the f-stop. The more manual a camera is, the greater your abillity to take the picture you want. If you can't afford the price of an expensive digital camera with a macro lens, go for a regular SLR with a 28-80 zoom lens (this gives you a wide angle ability on the lower side) and either a macro ability, or get some closeup lenses (I've spoken about those on two other threads Here is one . The other pretty much says the exact same thing. For those of you with auto-focus you'll typically have a small circle or partial circle in the center of your lens. Is is the "focus spot." If you aim that at the portion you want most in focus and LIGHTLY press your shutter just until the lens focuses, you can keep it lightly pressed to that halfway mark, move the camera to where you want to frame the item, and then press the shutter the rest of the way to take a picture. This is called "locking the focus." Now, with the standard 35mm film-type SLR (single lens reflex) camera you do have to take your film and get it developed, but they do tend to be less expensive than a digital camera (I purchased a Nikon with auto-focus and manual focus abilities as well as macro, zoom, and wide angle on one lens for under $300). For those without digital cameras: Now, film speed. The higher the ASA, the larger the grain and the less detail will be in your photograph. For those using film for their mini's, I'd use a 400 speed film indoors and 50-200 speed outdoors. Most 50 speed films require a lot of light, however they have awesome color and the finest grain. You have to use this film outdoors in bright overcast or bright sunlight. Generally 100-400 speed films will get you by. Also, note, the higher the ASA, the greater the silver content of the film, and the more expensive they are. Also, the higher the ASA the more apt it is to capture the ambient surrounding light indoors, and I've seen it even amplify this ambient light to a point of it being near impossible to correct (as in the examples given Here . Hope that helps !!
  3. While at it you should add the corrections to use if the picture is being shot under incandescent or flourescent lighting. Generally you need to add blue if the picture is too yellow. I've found (in my 15+ years as a professional photographer and film developer) to add blue (take out yellow) and add a little cyan (take out red). This gives a more realistic "18% grey" coloration. For flourescent, which is more green with a touch of yellow or red, you need to remove green (add magenta) and I also add blue (remove yellow). There are differing styles of flourescents, and some I've had to finagle a large amount just to get the correct color. Now, I will say this. Changing the color can alter the darker contrast colors, especially if you have to do some major surgery to get your base colors correct. Here are some examples: Heavy incandescent light (note, the cat pic was also this color but I didn't save the original): Indoor lighting The corrected image: Corrected image Cat shot in same lighting: Corrected Cat You'll notice on the first corrected picture there is still a heavy yellow color in the background (white walls) while the highlights on the girl's face are blueish. Of course, I did this in a very short time just as an example. On the cat, it still seems to have an almost reddish cast to the picture, yet the shadows (especially seen beneath the chair in the top right) are green in color. I spent hours in correcting this picture trying to get it to look right for the owner. Try and use natural light whenever possible. Overcast days are best as you don't have the harsh shadows cast from the sun.
  4. I wanted to say a few things about editing pictures of your miniatures, did some research on the web, and decided to write an article on it which you can find at http://www.coolminiornot.com/go.php?go=articlephp&aid=88 There are other articles on photography on the same site, and I highly recommend the one on lighting by Honza, and the one by Chern Ann.
  5. What brand/type interference did you get? I'm seeing all kinds, and really want to make certain it will mix okay with the Reaper Pro Paints. Acrylic, Watercolor, or Oil (probably not an oil based) Pre mixed or powder? I'm also trying to find it here in Austin. I looked at Hobby Lobby and couldn't find it. I'll try Michael's today.
  6. What about thosen 3-D puzzles for use in a game for when the pc's are milling around some old castle or something. I can put one together in less than three days and it's pretty much on scale too.
  7. My main question is has anyone ever tried the "rust effect" paint that you can get at craft stores? I've seen the effect on walls (gotta love Trading Spaces sometimes) but I'm curious if anyone has tried this on their mini's to try and give an effect of rust on metal. I'm also curious about any other ways people have come up to have special effects on their minis, from dragon's breath to ... whatever. :D
  8. Mmmm.. Clive Cussler. There are very few of his books I don't own, and that's only because I haven't found them yet. For those who aren't familiar with him, he wrote Raise the Titanic and years before the Titanic was found, he had nearly pinpointed where it would be found :O I highly recommend his book Atlantis Found to all people who like fantasy. While it's a modern day setting, there is so much in that book that can be used to make a great adventure it's not even funny. Yet one more series. Wilbur Smiths Warlock series : The Seventh Scroll, River God, and Warlock. It accounts the movements of an Egyptian (go fig with me, huh?) sorceror and his beloved princess and the love of her life.
  9. I honestly forgot about the Elric series. That series is hidden by the rest of my books on the shelf :laugh: I also forgot P C Hodgell's series Jame of the Kencyrath which includes God Stalk, Dark of the Moon, and Seeker's Mask. And I think one series that needs to be mentioned that no one has yet... The Pern series by Anne McCaffrey
  10. Some of these are hard to find, but can be had at Ebay or a used book store... The Theive's World Series : Robert Lynn Asprin editor (Thieves World, Tales From the Vulgar Unicorn, Shadows of Sanctuary, Storm Season, The Face of Chaos, Wings of Omen, The Dead of Winter, Soul of the City, Blood Ties: Aftermath, Uneasy Alliances, Stealer's Sky) Myth Series by Robert Lynn Asprin (Another Fine Myth, Myth Conceptions, Myth Directions, Hit or Myth, Mything Persons, Little Myth Marker, M.Y.T.H. Inc. Link, Myth-nomers and Im-pervections, M.Y.T.H. Inc. in Action, Sweet Myth-tery of Life) *if you couldn't tell, lots of puns* Coldfire Trilogy by C. S. Friedman (Black Sun Rising, When True Night Falls, Crown of Shadows) Sword Series by Jennifer Roberson (Sword Dancer, Sword Maker, Sword Breaker, Sword Singer, Sword Born, Sword Sworn) Witch World Series by Andre Norton (lots of titles to this series, won't even go into it) Also by Andre Norton: The Crystal Gryphon series and Forerunner Series ... pretty much anything by her. Elaine Cunningham again, anything she's written. She's good, and nice. Posts often on the Forgotten Realms board at Wizards of the Coast. Yes I've read all these books and more. Most I read in high school and still own them. All of them are excellent fantasy books. You can also go to the out of print section at barnes and noble dot com and they usually have copies available there.
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