Jump to content

StrangeCargoGames

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About StrangeCargoGames

  • Birthday 04/04/1971

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://http//www.strangecargogames.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Key West, Florida
  • Interests
    I'm a filmmaker by trade, having worked at Skywalker Ranch, Disney and for a number of other studios, generally doing visual effects. I've got two young kids and my wife is an avid gamer. RPGs, wargames and 'euro' board games are regular family events.

Recent Profile Visitors

490 profile views

StrangeCargoGames's Achievements

Mostly Harmless

Mostly Harmless (2/8)

0

Reputation

  1. If you're jsut getting into it and arent totally comitted, I'd really consider 10mm from Old Glory or Perrin (I carry the Perrins), or 15mm from Old Glory. Unlike most fantasy/sci fi games these days, you'll be fielding both sides. That means you're looking at a decent layout for figures if you go 28mm. With the smaller scales, you can build up some LARGE games for less than the cost of say a single 1750pt GW army. Ruleset will essentially decide your basing for you. Fire and Fury is fantastic. My fav is Johnny Reb III and they use the same basing strategy. These are Bill Morenos 10mm ACW during a MASSIVE 3 day, 10,000 figure ACW game from one of our cons last year. These are some of my 10mm Perrin ACW: Go small, get some figs, paint and play! -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  2. Wargames Foundry has a ton of personalities mixed into their collections. I went through this for a 7 Seas campaign and bought a lot of lead for a few figures I needed. Upside is that painted foundry figs tend to land pretty well on Ebay :) -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  3. Glue is going to throw you for a curve. Getting glue to stick to the dense lead/pewter is drastically different than plastic models. Epoxy is best, standard 'crazy' CA glue with 'pinning' is second. (Thats where you drill shallow holes into each piece to be glued and place a 'peg' of wire into the holes to bond them together. Just plain CA glue is the weakest, but it can work. Next, you've got to prime. Acrylics stick to plastic like nobody's business. Metal, much less so.. though it may appear to.. it'll scrape off easy. I prime with can aerosols with lots of stinky, dangerous chemicals in them that will grip that metal so my weak acrylic paint has an easier time bonding. Autobody primer will work in a pinch, I prefer Armory spray these days. Paints and brushes... use what you have, but if you need a color you don't have, try one of the 'marquee' brands... Vallejo or Reaper Master Series. Good brushes are key. Windsor and Newton Series 7 or Vallejo. Get a 0 or a 1.. build from there. Care for em... clean em, never 'stab' with em and don't get paint up into the ferrule. They will last for years. The technique you can get from Jester and the rest of the local heros here. Right now, assemble the tools and make some mistakes. I'd buy a bg of cheap lead historical troops.. Paint the same figure 12 or 20 times. Sell the resulting unit on ebay for a profit, but you'll learn a TON about technique as you finesse a model for the 16th time :) -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  4. Finally had the camera out and got a snap of the custom Warforged I did for a guy in our Eberon campaign. Hehe.. there weren't any Warorged monks with nunchucks wearing a fez and a half-cloak available. It was also my first 'green', built on a reaper dolly. Paint job was a 20 minute just to get it on the table... we have a no-unpainted rule at my house :) -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  5. Hehe.. should I send a bottle or Roan, Bay and Chestnut to Anne? Hehe.. be nice to see a few horse pallettes for Master Series :) -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  6. Some sort of flow improver is a must have. They do have a very sticky 'glue-like' consistancy right from the bottle. Hehe.. I still like that Roan and the Bay colors though :)
  7. "He who can draw forth the brush from the GW paint pot, shall become king of all the Britons." -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  8. I stock them and have used some of the Hues paints for a few years now. As I mentioned, their horse colors are spot on. No one really can come up and say.. err... horses don't come in that color :) Roan is a must have. The paint is thick and does need to be either stirred or REALLY shaken, which we're getting pretty used to these days. It has a bit of a 'stickier' quality that I haven't seen elsewhere. I thin a touch with mostly flow improver and very little water. Its pigmented about as heavily as GW but with much more usable color selections. They dry pretty flat. Some satin qualities. Pretty much in line with Reaper Master Series, but its on a color by color basis in the same way. If you're doing historicals or even pesudo-historicals, they are great as they have some colors that are tricky to track down in the other lines for specific uniform shades. -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  9. Not too bad for a retailer mag review. I think hes a bit off the mark by not making a distinction between Game and Model Color. Model in many cases is *thick*. Also left out the alcohol based Metallics from the Model Color line. Those are easily the best metallics I've seen. Adikolor can be difficult to get. I had to drop the line due to supply issues. No mention of Foundry, Coat D'Arms or the new Master Series... so there are some big holes. Nice to see mention of Howard Hues paints. They have a small market but its a great line with the best horse colors I've ever seen. -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  10. Foundry makes an excellent set of police officers in full blues...
  11. I just sculped my first green around a reaper armature. I needed a warforged monk in a fez with cape and loincloth with nunchucks :) I knew I wasn't going to find that commerically. I'll post pics when its painted. I went for minimal detail with the intent of painting it in.
  12. Interesting... I find Vallejo Ivory to be too green for that :) I use Light Sand for exactly that purpose. I also do a lot of my shade lightening with it.
  13. I'm a big Vallejo fan, specifically Model Color as I paint mostly historicals or 'realistic' fantasy/sci-fi. Nice muted and earthy tones and lots to choose from. For me, the Master Series paints are a tad shiny for my style but I love the color formulations. A few of the 'trios' are now permanent additions to my 'kit'. With a quality paint and a good 1 or 0 brush, you'll be shocked at what you can do with great tools. It really helped my painting when I moved 'up'. Julie: Are you still waiting on that NZ/AU importer thats carrying the line? Drop me a note, I might be able to lend a hand as I still owe you one :) -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  14. I'm a Vallejo fan.. Model Color specifically. I stll a few lines including Vallejo, Reaper Master Series, Foundry, Howard Hues, Citadel and lately Adiken. In the end, my personal kit is Vallejo with a few Howard Hues horse colors. Having said that, I have a LOT of praise for the Reaper Master Series line. The paint itself is a bit shiny for my taste, but it goes on smooth and pretty much needs no thinning. Its the color choices where the line really stands out. I love their leather shades and the flesh 'brackets' are spectacular. It sounds like you've got a decent amount of paint though. I'd suggest this... get a good brush. A nice 1 or a 0 from Windsor and Newton Series 7 or Vallejo Kolinsky Sable. As mentioned above, a quality brush, well cared for will do WONDERS for the paint you already have. -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
  15. I'd say that you really do need to support what the people in your shop are playing. That means fostering it, keeping it well stocked, getting special orders as fast as possible, etc. Trying to cover all the bases for historicals is a recipe for disaster. I'd say the main missing component is the lack of illustrated catalogs which will totally sink most shops that even try to brung in non FOW historicals. You can't even hand a guy a catalog to page through! Most of my online shop income is from historicals, augmented with the income from a few of the historical cons I attend each year. Its frustrating trying to get products even as a dealer! The 'sight-unseen' days are long over. I don't see the historical market as 'greying'.. its still living in the pre-internet, mail order only, non-illustrated dark ages :) It'd take off in a big way if the historical developers spent even a tiny amount of effort emulating the presentation and products from the 'big' scifi/fantasy developers. -- Gregg Strange Cargo Games http://www.strangecargogames.com
×
×
  • Create New...