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Al Capwn

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About Al Capwn

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    South East Idaho
  • Interests
    Painting, Woodworking, Music, Games (both Tabletop and Video).

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  1. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    10/8 - Mitsuki, Cont. At this point, I am considering Mitsuki nearly tabletop worthy, with only a few minor corrections left. to make, such as touching up the hoses on the back. Steps take here were to glaze in some additional colors, namely on the white armor on the leg, as well as glazing in some Reaper Burgundy Wine for the skin tones on the arm, which turned out really nice. I opted for some type of gem-like effect on her scanner thingy, and I will gloss coat it to make it look like a lens after the initial matte varnish is applied. The hose-padding was Vallejo Deep Sea Blue mixed with some Kimera Black and White. So not entirely a Kimera paintjob since I "cheated" a little, but almost.
  2. Al Capwn

    Help needed! Rock troll gems!

    Like what Doug mentioned, but with some edge highlights. Check out this tutorial here.
  3. Al Capwn

    UnreliableNarrator's unreliable paintjobs: C&C needed

    First of all, welcome to the forums! You are doing great for starting out, even bravely tackling eyes! In regards to the face, I use a magnifier head set (optivisor) and a really bright led lamp. This is also one of the few times that I find having a fairly small brush to be useful. A size 00 to 1. Push highlights up to his cheeks, just under the eyes. If it gets too bright, glaze your mid tone over it. Otherwise, it really is just practice. Painting in details that are not sculpted in very well is challenging, so I would temper my expectations at first, because it is an uphill battle. There are others with more experience who can provide advice. In regards to glazes, your brush will always deposit a little more at the end of your brush stroke. If you are getting a wash effect, that means you have too much liquid loaded in your brush. Continue to dab your brush on a paper towel until it is only damp, and not soaking wet. I tend to try to use glazes on flat-ish surfaces, such as faces or the flats of cloaks, and not on ridges where the paint can "run off" (another sign that too much liquid was loaded in the brush). Blending or obtaining a smooth gradient can really depend on what color it is. Red behaves differently than Green. Blue behaves differently than Yellow. So giving advice is very much color centric. What color are you wanting to highlight the tail with? Is it supposed to be like a demon red, or closer to a really ruddy red/brown? Finally, in regards to finishes/varnish/clear coats. Model Masters/Testors Dullcote, AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish, or Army Painter AntiShine will all knock out the majority of the shine from glossy inks or washes. Also, most washes usually aren't glossy, but can become glossy if you don't shake them. The finish won't eliminate all of the shine, but the vast majority. Are you sure about that? My bottles of AK Interactive and Vallejo varnish (printed as such) disagree with you. ;) Wiping varnish is also used in woodworking, so perhaps the name has been somewhat relegated as a catch all.
  4. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    10/5 - Mitsuki, Cont. Clocked in some more time and got a bit more done. Some browns for the leather satchels, an olive green for the pants, and used some green/yellow/red oxide to make a green for the helmet. Airbrushed the top of the helmet to give it a nice transition, but used the brush for the front of the helmet. Arms basecoated in Rosy Shadow, and will highlight up a bit later. Still have to work on the boots, armor and scanner/weapon/backpack tech.
  5. Al Capwn

    Chibi Gloomhaven (spoilers linked)

    Amazing work as usual!
  6. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    10/3 - Mitsuki, Cont. Not a lot done this go around, spent a good hour and a half on working on the eyes and skin tones. Since she has really pale skin, I decided to use Reaper's Rosy Skin triad with Fair Skin Highlight and White to work up to the highlights.
  7. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    10/1 - Survivor Mitsuki In the words of a wise man, you gotta know when to hold 'em and know when to fold 'em, so moving on from Vivian for now to pursue hopefully greener, or in this case, white and browner pastures. This time around I took a couple of extra steps for the gee-wiz factor. The biggest one being applying a wash of Nuln Oil Gloss and then re-applying the white ink afterwards to help sketch in some of the details and "black line" ahead of time. Not sure how much of a value added it was, but it certainly helped pick out some of the details while still maintaining the overall light values.
  8. Al Capwn

    17308 High Rollers - Bones 4

    Very nice, vibrant and tidy work! Great job!
  9. Nope, those are Model Color and those are garbage. You will want Vallejo Metal Color, if anything. It is the name of the line and different bottle. Such as this: Vallejo Metal Color. ...and yes, they are 10 bucks a pop, so I would start with only one, such as Silver. I will eat my imaginary hat if they are not the best acrylic metal paints.
  10. Al Capwn

    Skeleton Dragon (Bones 4)

    This is looking really good. Excellent composition so far, and that book really looks like it is glowing in that mysterious Pulp Fiction briefcase kind of way.
  11. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    9/29 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. The past couple of days have been mostly working on the hair, leather bits and metallic bits. I also added the muzzle heat burn effect to the end of the flamethrower.
  12. True Metallic Metals (TMM) can be done; Michael Proctor has a solid class on doing them to look right. You aren't alone, but I will say this: With the exception of Vallejo Metal Color, most metallics are pretty terrible. They tend to be thick, yet do not thin easily. You can apply the principles of NMM to TMM, but if you are looking for a good metallic paint, Reaper unfortunately is not one of them and in fact is prob one of their weakest line ups. The trick to TMM is to kill the sheen in the shadows; you can do so fairly easily with a wash or the Reaper Liner paints. Normally I am not a brand fan boy per se, but pick up a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color and I can pretty much promise you an entirely different experience. Somewhat spendy, but worth every penny. That being said, they really only have a solid range in the "Silver" line-up (Gunmetal, Steel, Silver and Alluminum/Chrome). The Copper and Gold are smooth, but I don't particularly like the Gold since it leans towards the Green-Gold spectrum, and I prefer my Gold colors to learn towards Orange/Brown.
  13. Al Capwn

    Airbrush of choice?

    Not an expert, but I have owned or used the following: Cheap harbor freight airbrush. Cheap Iwata Revolution knock-off. Iwata Neo TRN-2 Iwata Neo CN (Friend's) Badger Patriot 105 Badger SOTAR 20/20 I really liked my friend's Iwata Neo CN quite a bit and one of the benefits with the Iwata was the end-cap you are able to internally mix the paint. The trigger on it is also very smooth. The end-cap of the Badger brushes are a little easier to clean, but you lack the convenience of being able to internally mix (backflow technique) easily. I like supporting Badger because it is a small US business that still makes stuff in the USA, and their customer service has a good reputation. However, I really do wish they had a similar needle-protector like the Iwatas. In terms of brands, there are a few major brands out there that all offer a quality brush in a variety of price-points. Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, Grex, and Badger are probably the brands that come up the most. Airbrushes, like traditional brushes, are often a matter of taste, and folks will have their personal preferences. Kenny Boucher often uses an Iwata Eclipse, James Wappel uses a SOTAR 20/20 (even for priming) and I am sure there are many others who use H&S/Grex. For 28mm figures, such as a typical bones "human" I really like the SOTAR. It allows for a bit more precision in highlighting, sips paint, and the smaller paint cup gives it more of a "pencil" feel. For priming purposes or for painting larger things, such as vehicles or large monsters, I break out either the Patriot 105 or the TRN-2. The TRN-2 is nice because it has more of a pistol grip, thus really comfortable for longer spraying sessions. Down side is that the same grip doesn't allow it to rest in the airbrush holder. I use a mix of Vallejo Flow Improver and water to mix non-airbrush paints inside of the cup, and I have been using an inexpensive Harbor Freight compressor w/ a moisture trap and so far haven't experienced any major issues. The compressor is neither quiet nor loud, but somewhere in between - I would say about the same noise level as a box fan on a medium setting. Won't wake the neighbors, but I wouldn't want to try and sleep in the same room with it. I would also suggest some airbrush cleaner as well, since properly cleaning the airbrush will keep it from gumming up. The quick disconnects are quite convenient both for cleaning purposes as well as switching between multiple airbrushes later on down the road if you so choose. An airbrush holder + cleaning pot is also very handy to spray out residue and keep the overspray contained during cleaning cycles.
  14. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    9/27 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. Have you ever experienced one of those moments where you are so frustrated you want to start over completely? Well that was me last night. I kept going back and forth with the skin tones, and I was working the paint too long, building up some ugly texture. It was getting ridiculous. It got to a point that it looked like this: So out came the rubbing alcohol, and I wiped the paste off her face and started over...I was up until 3AM working on her face, because I just wasn't happy with it. I still am not totally satisfied, but at least it is getting there. I need to dial down some of the harsher highlights on the nose and chin and smooth out a bit more on the forehead. Her right eye looks pretty good, but her left is a little too big, but for the life of me I cannot seem to get them dialed in. I was pretty happy with Cole's face, and I have been happy with some of my previous Black Plague stuff, but this one...this one is just being a challenge. Sometimes you feel like you have an "off" day or mini, and this is one of them. I did find my class notes from Derek and Erin's classes, so that was helpful, but I think this is more of a paint consistency battle at the moment. @Cicciopiu I have some glaze medium and thinner, but no airbrush thinner - just airbrush flow improver.
  15. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Invader

    9/26 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. Tonight was working on skin tones, and the green suit. Still continuing to use the Kimera colors for everything but the skin tones. Speaking of skin, this time I incorporated some Vallejo Sunny Skintone into the rotation. Since the skintone is so light, I am fighting the chalkiness/texturing of the paint. I will likely have to apply some glazes to smooth some of it out. I also am having a doozy of a time trying to get her mouth/lips shaped correctly. I recall @Corporea going over lips and facial structure and something-something glossy sheen in her skin class, but I will have to dig around and see if I can find my notes...