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Al Capwn

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About Al Capwn

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    Male
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    South East Idaho
  • Interests
    Painting, Woodworking, Music, Games (both Tabletop and Video).

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  1. Yep! Now the exceptions to the "before painting" rule are foliage-like things; static grass, tufts, flocking, etc. All of those I would apply after painting. There are also some good pre-mixed basing materials that you don't have to paint, such as the "Battle Ready" stuff from Luke's APS which combine pieces of ballast/flocking material/saw dust, etc. in a particular theme. However, I have found anything sandy, gritty or rocky generally works better if you base it, prime it and then paint it. Materials that work great for bases are piece of Pine bark (replicates shale r
  2. Thankfully that is a pretty easy touch up job! I have experienced the same problem with spots where the wash did not apply at all and leaves a dry spot. Something to consider for basing; apply the glue and texture and then apply a primer over it. Sand, and quite frankly most other natural materials will stick out. Applying a coat of primer and then dry brushing over it helps heaps in cleverly disguising it. Great exercise and love the colors!
  3. Thank you - and certainly! For the shadows of the skin I started mixed a deep purple-red on my pallet, close to Reaper's Burgundy Wine. I used Ultramarine Blue, Quinacridone Magenta, and maybe a touch of Titanium White. The midtone was Raw Sienna (Yellow Ochre). The highlight I mixed was Raw Sienna (Yellow Ochre), Cadmium Yellow, and Titanium White. The resulted in somewhat of a pale-tanned skin color. Afterwards once that was dry, I thinned down some Quinacridone Magenta and applied a glaze over the top to give it more pinkish warmth. I essentia
  4. Yep, all done with oil paints (Winsor and Newton and Williamsburg brands to be specific). The bits of flagstone are made out of Sculpey clay (Gray, Firm) with the Greenstuff World 'Temple' texture roller applied. I then simply broke some pieces from the sheet of sculpey and applied them to the base. They gray sculpey tends to stick less into the rollers compared to green stuff or the softer white sculpey.
  5. This miniature will be roughly my third or fourth venture into the realm of oil paints. Everything, with exception to the metallics, eyeballs, and some skin highlights were done in oils. This is also my first attempt in basing in the style of James Wappel (wappellious) using Green Stuff World texture rollers, sculpey, and Vallejo texture paste. No black paint was used in this exercise. I still can't take great photographs, but eventually I will get there! WIP Shots:
  6. I have heard good things about Scale75 and ProAcryl metallics, but my personal go-to so far has been Vallejo Metal Color. Extremely finely ground (no sparkle effect), and very good coverage over either a black or white base. The downside is while the silver ranges are extensive, the Copper/Golds are limited. The Gold is a Green-Gold vs. your atypical fantasy Orange-Gold. A drop of Orange ink can correct that.
  7. So it has been a while since I updated this, so let's cover where we are at today: Biters All 15 Biter aliens are now complete. Naga (Alien Boss) Searsting (Alien Boss)
  8. Lovely stuff as usual, Aku-Chan! ...but I want to buy you a bottle of AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish.
  9. Following up from Remus Raducan, I wanted to branch out with another miniature with oil paints. I pulled this guy out of a drawer as he was a project piece from a previous ReaperCon class with Brice Cocanour. The class was on blending, and I thought that better way to practice further than on the long-flowing robes of this wizard. Here he is after 30 or so minutes of playing around with oils... Once again, oils are proving themselves invaluable for their ability to blend into one another seamlessly, rivaling airbrush in terms of smoothness of transitions, an
  10. At this point, the old portion of the mini is just really a fancy armature. Super cool work! I can't sculpt a rock either, so this is always fascinating to see.
  11. From the Forum Rules, pinned at the top of this forum: Acceptable ContentRemember, this is a family forum and to keep it such, please think about what you post. If your mini/sketch/picture has nudity please do not post the picture, instead provide a link to the picture and plenty of warning to the viewer. We will remove your images if you fail to comply with this. Additionally, censoring your images with black out strips (or any other option, such as Spoiler Tags) isn't allowed, they must be linked. --- While I am not in the least offended by nipple-less Dry
  12. Today I tackled the first block of 5, of a total of 15 Shooter aliens. Similar process as the Runners, but went with a slightly more yellow/orange tone for the skin, using Kislev Flesh as the base tone plus a bit of White and Warm Yellow ink. I added a bit of Contrast Flesh Tearers Red into some Reikland Fleshshade mix for the face. Highlighted the teeth the same as the Runners, dotted the eyes with some Titanium White, and glazed over them with some Flame Red ink to push for a glowing effect.
  13. So the studio paint job pulled off a clever trick... Look at the color of the skin, and compare it to the gems and shoulder pauldrons. The skin really isn't as blue as we might think...it falls under a very highly tinted and desaturated Cyan with a Green-leaning bias. This allows for adding in true cool blue elements, such as the lips, shadow tones, and armor bits. Here is a color picker on the highlight section of her skin. ...and here is a color picker on a shadowed skin section... Now obviously you don't have to direct-copy the studi
  14. Wow, you did awesome for coming back from 12 years - exceptionally well done! In regards to #1, as others have mentioned, the default bones material is very soft, so it takes careful slicing. Abrading the surface tends to just kinda gum up if anything. Can sand metal and resin, but the bones stuff is just a wee bit too soft for that. In regards to #2, Reaper has some great minis and some great paints, but I have found their brighter skin tones (Fair, and even Rosy to a limited extent) problematic in the chalky texture department. I actually hate to say it, but of
  15. So CMON came out with an updated version of Project: Elite, a game that has been lauded as a super fun real time game. Thankfully, the contents of the game are a bit smaller than Zombicide: Invader, and the gameplay is a little bit more fun if I am being totally honest. Additionally, the scale of the miniatures are slightly larger, so instead of being around 25mm, they are closer to the 28-32mm heroic scale. Now that being said, this is a real time game. Which means that the miniatures will be handled a lot, and sometimes roughly. As much as I would like to slave over some of these, I am tryin
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