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Al Capwn

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Everything posted by Al Capwn

  1. Al Capwn

    Best 15 - 20 Reaper Paints to Get

    Pros: It's fairly inexpensive and better than craft paint. Cons: Coverage is pretty poor, and the mica size is a bit large. It tends to look a little more gritty/sparkly compared to say Vallejo's Air. For metallics, I have either owned/used: Army Painter, GW, Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Metal Color and Reaper. By far the best water-based acrylic I personally have used is Vallejo Metal Color, with the runner-up being Model Air. Metal Color is a bit expensive though. I haven't tried them, but high praise is given to Scale75 as well. Each paint brand has their strengths and weaknesses. In my opinion and experience, Reaper's weakest paints are/were their metallics, some of their brighter flesh tones (tend to chalk easily) and some of their HD paints (which were discontinued). Their advantages are being a US based company that makes their paint in house, a wide range of colors, dropper bottles with agitators, and a thinner consistency (added flow improver) that is more friendly to certain styles of painting, and certainly for beginners who often do not thin their paint at all.
  2. Didn't see a post on this one and it is in the final 24 hours. It is from Mythic Games, the originators of Mythic Battles series. This one is a bit less serious and more along the lines of Arcadia Quest/MOBA comic-fantasy theme. It is a skirmish game for 2 or 4 players. Miniatures are on 45mm bases and fall in the 32-45mm range. It appears that the bases are pre-sculpted. If MB:P is any indicator, the quality of the miniatures should be pretty solid as well. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1162110258/super-fantasy-brawl/
  3. Al Capwn

    Best 15 - 20 Reaper Paints to Get

    I think Doug's list seems really spot on. As others have said, I would pass on Reaper's metallic colors. I use Linen White pretty extensively. Burgundy Wine is another solid suggestion. Other Votes: Ghost White (cool white compared to the warm of Linen White) Candelight Yellow (pretty strong for a warm yellow) Liners (Brown, Blue, and Red) Clears (Red & Magenta especially, for pumping up vibrancy)
  4. Al Capwn

    Deus Vult! Militi Christi Bust by Glitterwolf

    Yep, and I would go fairly bright on the warm browns towards yellows: https://www.aclens.com/Most-Common-Eye-Color If you take a good look at the references there, you can see (ha!) the inner part of the iris has some fairly bright striations of color before diffusing into the darkest colors at the outer edge. Also note that the placement of the reflection (be it more on the iris or pupil) is determined the the angle of the light source. Hopefully that is useful.
  5. Al Capwn

    Deus Vult! Militi Christi Bust by Glitterwolf

    Skin tones are really starting to come together, solid work on the shading so far - you are doing great! Like you mentioned, your photos are overexposed and it is blowing out a bit; might need to diffuse/soften the lighting a bit more. It might be just me, but the eyes look...backwards? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pupil That is to say the reflection spot is where the pupil should be, the iris should contain the color and is darkest in both the inner and outer-most edges. Where is your primary light source coming from? Directly overhead, I presume?
  6. Al Capwn

    77279 NARTHRAX

    Very well done! Also a neat use of color theory with the contrast between orange and blue hues; adds a lot of visual interest.
  7. Al Capwn

    Bones 4 Alandin, Elf Paladin

    Very nice free hand and the trim on the robe is very nicely executed; the pictures are seem really overexposed though! Gotta soften that light a bit, because I can tell this is a really good job but the photos are making it look worse than it is.
  8. Al Capwn

    Display Backdrop

    If it is for a competition, I would say a reference picture and freehand. If it is for yourself, do whatever you like. I know James Wappel and a few other artists lay out their idea with a rough pencil sketch, and then start refining from there.
  9. Al Capwn

    Scale75 Inktesity

    Same, only I used Testor's Dullcote (though I'd love to get my hands on the AKI Ultra Matte, it is difficult to find in the states); a quick spray after painting knocks down the shine easily. I think Army Painter and MIG also make an anti-shine, but I can't vouch for them as I haven't used them.
  10. Al Capwn

    ReaperCon 2019 Ribbons

    Is there an old man in a red robe nearby? If so, I would imagine that it is only customary that you take it and hold it above your head as a mysterious jingle plays (da-da-da-daaaaaa).
  11. Al Capwn

    Citadel Contrast paints

    I would also imagine that color correction is a bit more challenging too, if this is essentially underpainting/grisaille. I have found that opaque paints tend to be a bit easier to fix instead of the inherently translucent layers of washes and inks. Edit: Miniac (SDubs) confirmed what I suspected as well.
  12. Howdy y'all! I know I am rather new to the forums but I thought I would introduce a bit of what I have been working on pre and post ReaperCon 2018. No doubt I have met with some of the forum denizens here, most notably @Green Eyed Monster for sure. Hopefully my presence here will be a welcome and fruitful one, and I look forward to talking and learning from all of you! A few months back I decided to pick up Zombicide: Black Plague, and before I knew it I was neck-deep in medieval zombies. I told myself I would save the heroes for after ReaperCon to employ some of the techniques and improvements I would have learned. I... uhh... sorta did that. Let's just say I quickly became tired of the derth of zombies and wanted to focus on more...noble...aspirations. The Goal: Get 'er done. Preferably by the end of October. Because what better way to say 'Thriller' like a box o'zombies. I am shooting for tabletop standard for the standard fodder zombies, with tabletop+ for the heroes. Not quite display level, but certainly a cut-above your bog 40k Guardsman (ifyaknowwhatimean hashtag don't_tell_the_commissar). I am loosely following the box artwork along with Sorastro's YouTube series, but I certainly am not married to everything. I will try to make a note of any techniques I employ that I have learned either from class, trial and error, or from online tutorials. Since this is my first original content post here, please let me know if I am doing anything incorrectly or against forum etiquette, as this is not my normal venue for sharing! So grab a cup and buckle up, cuz we are fixin' to see a whole lot of pictures of the scenic countryside of Zombicide: Black Plague.
  13. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May/June Something-Something-Dark Side No pictures taken, but additional steps taken for my own reference and when I am able to post some pictures: The flesh was a little more palid than I liked, so I glazed some GW Reikland Fleshshade over it to give it a bit more warmth. I layered up some Desert Stone and Linen White on the torn fabrics. Applied some Scale75 Inktense Green over his lower torn robe-kilt thing. Once again I will be taking a brief hiatus as I am in the middle of packing up for a move...so no ReaperCon this year, and will likely be not picking up a brush to work on this guy for a solid month or two... I will however pack up a travel kit of paints and brushes, so I should be working on something to keep me from going too crazy.
  14. Al Capwn

    Recommendations for "True Colors"

    Ehhh, yes and no. I think what @Cicciopiu is saying is that there are some colors that cannot be built off on the primaries. There are also hyper-bright colors that cannot be mixed. These neon colors are pretty unique. Long story short, it sounds like you are wanting to experiment with a limited palette. Wren did an article about this, and essentially you need a pair of Warm/Cool of the primaries, plus White/Black. Also a brown (such as Burnt Umber) I would highly encourage watching Draw, Mix, Paint on YouTube on the foundations of color mixing and color matching. Specifically Color Mixing Rules to Remember and How to Match Any Color with Oil Paint. The same rules apply to Acrylic as they do to oils. Individual colors are very useful for time purposes, colors that cannot be mixed (ultra neon vibrant colors) and for visually seeing the color you want immediately, rather than by building it up by experience. It also uses less paint in building up particular colors.
  15. Al Capwn

    Herbalist from Bones 4

    I am not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express one time... @Wren had some good advice on how to apply fabric texture, which would be close to what I would try to do: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/74421-how-to-painting-fabric-fabric-texture/ My gut instinct says that this would be a good exercise to attempt some texturing, and I don't think it should be too challenging as the shape is a single cylinder. Maybe someone more experienced with textures would be able to chime in, as I am far from a texture expert. Otherwise I would eyeball some reference pictures of what looks cool and try to replicate that. Just depends on how much time you want to sink into that part, but as it is molded it is a a simple cylinder that will need a bit of love to have it appear interesting. Worst case scenario is you reset and cover the crosshatching and go with leather or alternatively glass.
  16. Al Capwn

    Moonlit Halfling Archer - broccoli pics

    Very nice, cloak and tunic blending/highlights look very good in particular.
  17. Al Capwn

    02885 - Khalith, Mummy Lord 2.0

    Very nicely done, though it was already very good to begin with. The additional shading on the sword-side helps significantly with the contrast.
  18. You might have, but I didn't catch it? I did notice you tried three different Golden paints, with the most brilliant result coming from PY 74 (Hansa Yellow). I can certainly give it a try at home for fun, and I would imagine that most paints will react similarly. It is curious that it turns Green though, certainly not what someone would expect!
  19. Yep, the pacing is much better for me as well. Pretty fascinating that there is a historical basis for obtaining a solid green prior to the developments of more modern blue pigments. My question would be, is this a result of these particular Yellow and Black pigments (i.e. their unique chemical makeup) or does this apply broadly across different pigment types? I.e. Does this work with say <insert brand of paint here> Black + Yellow?
  20. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May 25th Since most of the figure is basically super-ripped flesh, I applied a layer of Reaper Burgundy Wine, followed by GW Bugman's Glow, Cadian Fleshtone and some Vallejo Basic Skintone and Scale75 Pale Flesh. Which gave the following results: Applied a bit of Reaper Pure Black and Vallejo Blue Green for the hood and boots, adding increasing amounts of Blue Green and a little bit for some edge highlights and blending on the top of the hood. Added some glazes to ease the transitions a bit, but I will come back and clean up the lines a little bit with a darker mix to really smooth it out further. Rope was basecoated with Vallejo Flat Earth, highlighted with Reaper Golden Highlight, glazed back again, and repeated that a couple of times. Finally applied a wash of GW Agrax Earthshade to effective wash and darkline the surrounding area. The ripped cloth is basecoated with Reaper Desert Stone, and will ultimately be worked up to Linen White; but haven't got there yet.
  21. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May 20th - The Abomination The last of the major players, the Abomination is on deck. Kickstarting off the process with a zenithal prime, with a little extra directed toward the face area. Color will be added to this spooky guy later this week, but this should provide a rough guideline of the shadows and highlights.
  22. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May 19th Alright, wrapping up the final details and calling it a day for this guy. The only real step left is the flagstone pattern for the base, but that is easy enough that I will skip the WIP pics for that. I glazed over the staff with Vallejo German Black Brown to tone down the transition bit, base coated the skull...flag...thing with Vallejo Cavalry Brown, then added did the same highlighting as the sash with Reaper Golden Highlight, followed by glazes of Reaper Clear Red. Finally, added a wash of GW Agrax Earthshade and a bit more Reaper Clear Red to unify the colors. The neck-horn-things got a glaze of Vallejo Deep Sea Blue to soft down the spot highlight and darken the recess a bit. Cleaned up the skin tones of the hands with Scale 75's African Shadow mixed with Pale Skin, then added some GW Reikland Fleshshade. Basecoated his dagger with Vallejo Leather Brown, then added Reaper Candelight Yellow to add that same sickly leather look. The crossguard was Vallejo Model Air Steel, and Glorious Gold for the pommel and sheath. Belt cord was Reaper Linen White + GW Agrax Earthshade + highlight with Linen White again. Belt buckle was gemified with Vallejo Model Air Steel, GW Nuln Oil Gloss, + GW Technical Spiritstone Red Beard was Vallejo German Black Brown, highlighted with Reaper Desert Stone (I think). Beard wrap was Linen White + Agrax Earthshade (seeing a pattern yet?) Eyes were dotted in with Scale75 African Shadow; it was an accident but it gave him these deep reddish-brown pupils, which I thought was perfect. I will see about getting a better picture for the Show Off page for when I am done...sometime around 2021 at my painting speed...
  23. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May 17th Another entry into the worklog, and I know eventually folks are going to get tired of seeing this dude. Thankfully we are on the home stretch, with only a few more details and a little more refinement to go before I am going to call him tabletop worthy. I applied a light application of GW's Reikland Fleshshade to his chest region, then added more Reaper Candlelight Yellow to his leather chest suspender thing to push up the contrast a bit. I added Vallejo Glorious and Polished gold to the accents. I cleaned up his Texas-sized belt buckle with Vallejo Silver and a light Nuln Oil Gloss wash. The second bottle was given a coat of Reaper Dungeon Slime, working in Retro Emerald and Turf Green into the mix to add a deeper green into the mix. It probably is still a little light since the twine wrapping doesn't stand out (that whole contrast thing) so I might need some Green Liner or something to add more separation between the colors. His arm wraps I tidied up, basing with Reaper Desert Stone and adding more Linen White, followed by a wash of GW Agrax Earthshade and finally layering up more Linen White.
  24. Al Capwn

    Zombicide Black Plague Necromancer

    Nice, I like the pop color on those bottles specifically. I debated making mine green myself, since it seems more...plague-y?
  25. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    May 16th A little more progress, blocking in some colors and adding some of the rough highlights in some areas. I went ahead and touched up the staff twine wraps with Reaper Linen White, as well as on the twine on the bottle. The staff was basecoated with Vallejo German Brown-Black and highlighted a bit with Orange Brown. I will have to come back and refine the transitions a bit later. I base coated his armor and chain with Reaper Retro Slate, then applied Vallejo Model Air Steel, then apply a couple of washes of GW Nuln Oil to start the shading process. I came back and highlighted the edges of the armor with Steel again to bring out some of the vibrancy. For the leather bits, I wanted to mix it up a bit from the usual formula and really did some experimentation here. It is a mix of Vallejo Leather Brown, Olive Grey and Reaper (Lantern?) Yellow. I wanted something a little more...sickly? So the greens and yellows I feel lend to that. I think it helps separate it from the flesh tones as well, because of the green/red contrast vs. the normal red leather base I use? Maybe? Not a color theory master. I then applied a light wash of Agrax Earthshade to tint it back down to a brown tone and add a little more depth. The bottle is a mix of Vallejo Blue Green and Periscopes, which is a deep aquamarine.