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Al Capwn

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Everything posted by Al Capwn

  1. Excellent work, she turned out lovely - nice balance of warm and cool tones. The Kimera paints are pretty interesting; very vibrant and saturated colors, but in some instances challenging to blend. I am guessing you used the warm yellow as opposed to the cool yellow?
  2. It is looking great! If it were me, I would make the horns the same color as your wing bone spurs to tie the materials together, with maybe just a hint of blue into the shadows to tie it to the tones of the scales. If it is too blue, it runs the risk of blending too well and then you are back to having separation and contrast issues. The first picture reads really warm on the scales, could be just the lighting, but I would take a very light blue glaze over the scales, just to push it a bit cooler. The back picture reads more blue, so if that is how it reads in real life, that looks good to me!
  3. Very cool - yellow can be a tricky color to keep looking nice, and these look nice and clean. Did you have a certain faction in mind for these units? BattleTech is where I first started painting minis as a kid, so it has a special place in my heart. Well done!
  4. Very nice! Are those the original "stab your fingers" antenna, or did you opt to swap to more finger friendly?
  5. So while I have painted other miniatures, this was my first Infinity model I have painted, and I want to emulate the box art in the style of Angel Giraldez. Here is the finished result. There are still a couple of details here and there that I could have touched up, but at some point you have to call it "done" and this was about as far as my patience was willing to carry me. Overall, I really enjoyed painting this miniature and I felt like I learned a lot about edge highlighting, darklining, and working in the initial contrast values. The Work In Progress thread is over here, for anyone interested seeing the process of this miniature along the way.
  6. 1/23 - More Progress... Spent some time working on the shoulder pads and launchers, highlighting the white arms/elbow joints, as well as the antennae. Added some more highlights/edge highlights here and there as seemed fitting. There are a few areas left to touch up, namely the inside of the cloak/coat, and a few transitions here and there, but this is about 85% complete.
  7. You say that like it is a BAD thing...
  8. 1/18 - Glazing and Touchups So today I blocked in the gun, edge highlighted, and attempted some facsimile of NMM. I added in some subtle brown shadows, and pushed in a bit brighter greens/yellows to the coat highlights. The pouches got a coat of Snakebite Leather and then some subsequent highlighting with Kimera Warm Yellow. Did the "gems" and eyes. The eyes were metallic silver, then a coat of Spiritstone Red over top. Accidentally got brown on the face, so had to reblend and added a bit more contrast while I was at it.
  9. 1/17 - Coat Not much done here, I took some Kimera Cool Yellow, FW White Ink, and Scale Inktense Green & Black; mixed in some Vallejo Glaze Medium. For the initial layer, I omitted the Yellow; going for a desaturated Green, I mixed the White + Black until I had a fairly neutral gray color, then added in some of the Green (which has somewhat of an aqua hue already) to get a nice midtone desaturated green like in the photo reference. I wanted the undershade to show through, and then gradually build up opacity over it. There are still some areas that need to be touched up, say near the right-side collar area and under some of the folds on the back side where some of the glazing isn't as saturated or consistent. I will probably add a subtle bit of an orange brown into the shadows, very carefully, to push the contrast and nerf some of the existing blue tones to give a bit more separation in color tones.
  10. To be fair, you are also one of the nicest and most approachable instructors! I suppose I am just projecting as the size of the convention grows, so does demand. I didn't want to insinuate that anyone is unapproachable, merely that I would like to see everyone get that opportunity. Aa it stands, instructors are tied with classes, and that isn't including the ones judging too! I also want to respect that everyone is there to enjoy themselves, and isn't there solely for my benefit. The number of entries into the MSP is exponentially growing, and getting pointed feedback is going to become an ever increasing commodity. As far as class subjects goes, I feel all of those are great. I think your skin tone class is almost universally useful on blending, and I still reference the class notes and mini to this day. Color theory is super important, but so is understanding difficult colors (yellow, red and white). Perhaps tying those two subjects together a bit to unpack opacity, hues and values?
  11. @Pegazus Yeah, that post could be moved here as well, there is just an overlap with the hotel demand situation and overall growth, that the subjects are a bit intertwined. Personally I feel ReaperCon is unique in that it is this collision of RPG/gaming and "pure" art. Some are painting minis for their D&D group, some are pushing themselves to improve as a painter/sculptor, and some are somewhere in both camps. Perhaps having some "unofficial" classes/sessions offered by intermediate painters to help novices would be useful as well. I feel lots of intermediate painters are capable of introducing the concepts of: a wet palette, paint consistency, the importance of multiple thin coats over a single thick one, removing mold lines and fixing gaps/defects. There are also a LOT of talented painters outside of artist row that could pass along their knowledge and "pay it forward". Having a massive, "How Do I" painting group/tables that anyone can bounce questions off of would be amazing. How do I fix this blend? How come this looks horrible? How do I fix his eyes? How do I keep this from looking garish? How do I not superglue my fingers together when basing? How do I keep from getting streaky base coats? How do I keep from getting tide spots? How do I not get these visible layer lines? Etc. Etc. Etc. The problem is I, as well as many others, have imposter syndrome. I don't feel I really feel capable of teaching anything "advanced". If we came together though, I feel we can not only lessen the burden on just asking "the experts" for feedback, but also help each other build our knowledge pools at each level of our painting journey. Counterpoint: To be truthful though, how many people attending are new to these concepts? Is zenithal priming something that is mind blowing to your average aspiring painter? How many really care? Perhaps more seasoned con-goers can provide some anecdotes. I am all for the "be the change you want" type of a deal. I recall @Wren mentioning when helping in the hijinks arena, most people just knew her as "the person who brings the paints" because there was no other context.
  12. I know this is slightly off topic, but I totally empathize. Like @Corsair mentioned, one of the things I loved about ReaperCon was how low-key it was. I have social anxiety in large groups, and ReaperCon was manageable. I also feel like artists were pretty open and available to talk to and just shoot the breeze. Especially on Wednesday where it was almost a ghost town. While ReaperCon is growing, which is good, I think it is slowly becoming another mega-con where you are just another nameless person amongst a sea of people. Which is the sad part of "growing up", because it is losing the part that made it distinctly identafiable - lots of fun and art without being completely oversaturated. Classes and events are going to have to scale with demand; so increasing the instructors and have more slots, otherwise as you mentioned, only the very lucky few will be able to get them. In business, sometimes sudden success can be just as bitter as failure.
  13. Coming along nicely! The scroll on the ...scroll bearer?... looks especially good.
  14. I agree with Glitterwolf in that the red needs some more shadows. Thankfully, red is super forgiving in that regard. You can use green, brown, or purple and they will all look good. I would avoid pure black. You can also highlight red by applying a pale yellow (like an ice yellow), letting it dry, and then layering red back over it (2-3 coats). Because red is so transparent, the underlying yellow helps pop the color very strongly without it turning it pink or orange. Love the conversion work!
  15. 1/14 - Base Time Sourced some sci-fi bases on Thingiverse, queued up the Photon and printed 6 different ones. I settled on a grating one because I couldn't decide on what I wanted to do with the lines. Originally the base was silver and then some blue shading, with yellow trim, which I thought would be neat. However, it made the model blend into the base too much, and the idea of a base is to offer some contrast - so it was doing the opposite of what I was trying to go for. The yellow also didn't make sense. There was no other yellow, nor will there be, on the model - so it just seemed out of place. Instead, I glazed over the yellow with Reaper Clear Red to shift it to, tada, Red - which IS on the model. I pulled a "Wappel" and just started dumping colors on the base... Snakebite Leather, Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Biel-Tan Green. All of it went on there like some crazy experiment to get some interesting tones and to shift it more towards a dark yellow brown, to contrast the Blue of the mini. Incidentally, that whole Cool Shadows/Warm Highlights thing was now working in my favor - go figure! ..and with adding in some "rust spots" and some Riekland Fleshshade wash into the mix, I ever so bravely attached the mini to the base... I also varnished the mini beforehand, because I was already getting tiny spots where the metal and the delicate airbrush work was rubbing off. The boots and a couple of other areas will require some touching up, but this should at least protect the current work that has gone on. Now there is a nice flat base that can easily be put onto a painting handle without fear of marring up any further work! Now, I may still have to tone down and desaturate the red on the base a bit more to keep it form overpowering the model, but I also wanted to tie in some visual interest. To the shoulder, and what will be the eyes.
  16. So after working on Zombicide: Invader for 5-ish months, I decided I needed to branch out and try something different as a mental break. Now, I don't play Infinity, but some of the models just looks super cool to me - lots of that anime mecha vibe to them. Angel Giraldez also does a great job in making them pop, and Kenny (Yo Dawg) from Next Level Painting painted a few of them in the earlier days and I always thought they looked neat. So, I decided to pick up a model, just for fun to see what it would be like. Techniques used heavily, as far as I can tell: Airbrush - There are some extremely smooth blends, and I would bet bottom dollar it is airbrushed. Nothing wrong with that, and in fact, for pieces such as this it really makes it both easy and beautiful at the same time. Darklining - There are clear bands of separation on each panel. Lifting heavily from the Gundam/Gunpla aesthetic, lots of panel lines and therefore demarcation points where things begin and end. This is important because the airbrush tends to blend almost too well, making hard-stops difficult. Edge Highlighting - Bringing some of the 'eavy Metal edge highlights over to here as well, since again, lots of hard edges and armor - so to simulate that, there are copious amounts of edges to highlight. References: I assembled the model, clearing off the small bits of flash/sprue, and then applied the usual zenithal prime. Already we can see the basic outline of the silhouette. Then I took 1 drop of Scale75 Inktense Blue and Inktense Green, some flow improver, glaze medium, and thinner to dilute the ink down. I also went back over it twice, adding more and more FW White Ink to increase the highlight areas while still imparting a blue hue. Next was to add definition, I did this by black lining with Scale75 Inktense Black. Alternatively, using a Liner or Wash/Shade can work here, but the strength of the ink is what I was going for. I also blocked in a few colors for fun, namely the knee joints, red shoulder trim, and center armor panel. I then took a bit of my old blue mix, and a bunch of white, and began edge highlighting... Lather, rinse, repeat - blocking in the colors of the lower face-helmet-guard-thing, adding in more edge highlights and dark lining. I also added some highlights to the neck-vent things, and top of the helmet.
  17. I would say capturing and successfully applying most art style at miniature scale is extrordinarily difficult, but I would say you captured the essense of impressionism on the tail for sure.
  18. 1/6/20 - More Robots... So this was all about refining details, and a little experimentation. Added Vallejo Metal Color Alluminum for the silver bits and washed with Army Painter Dark Tone. The Dark Tone wash tends to shrink up a bit more than the GW stuff does, meaning I had to make two applications to get a solid coat since I was not very liberal with it. The Army Painter washes tend to behave a little bit like the Contrast paints in that they tend to shrink and recede. I added some edge highlights with Dawler Rowney FW White Ink, which I will say again is THE white to use. Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Kimera - none of them have come close. It does tend to "sink" in to the paint, which makes it almost like a glaze. It is just the cat's pajamas. <endless praise about FW Ink over> Kimera Red, which is the brightest Red I own - was done for the numbers. One day I aim to try Pro Acryl to compare. The lenses were coated with Vallejo Metal Color Gold, then I applied GW's Soulstone technical paint over top. It is basically a clear Red gel, so Reaper Clear Red, a Red Ink, or Tamiya Clear would all work equally well I feel. For the chest armor piece, I put on my artist hat and basically mixed a bunch of paints together. A little Reaper, Vallejo, Contrast Iyanden Yellow and Kimera Yellow Oxide + White Ink all were tossed in there, glazing in purple/blue (go color theory) to shade. Really happy with how it turned out, so yay, science! I added a very light shade of black+purple around the cockpit-face area to add a bit more separation. Applied a layer of black to tidy up the base. Still a few details here and there, some more shading to make some of the white a bit more interesting, but more or less on the home stretch for this one. After that, it was on to the laser cannon thing...again with the asymmetrical shapes like the flag over rough surfaces...a little bit challenging. Not my best work, but acceptable for playing distance. While hard to see in the picture angle, I added some purple glazes down at the bottom and the top after this shot was taken, similar to Magnus' knee-flag to give a little depth. I also experimented a bit with some wet-blending on the mustard yellows. The darkest color being XV-88, working up to Vallejo Golden Yellow. Intermediate tones being Kimera Yellow Oxide and...another paint that escapes me at the moment, but in the same color family. I need to ease the transition on the bottom of the "L"s, but aside from that I was pretty happy with how it turned out. It isn't a competition-level smooth gradient, but time-to-effort ratio it sure was a lot quicker than the glazing I did on the robot's chest piece. In the CMON pictures, there are lots of little warning labels and such for this piece. I think I have some spare random decals floating about that will add some more character as well, because there isn't much to a giant-energy-railgun-thing to make it super interesting; except maybe some OSL glow emitting from the end of the barrel...hmmm....
  19. Robots & General Progress - 1/2/2020 So I decided to get the 'bots all primed up and ready next... I applied Contrast Snakebite Leather to the back pouches, Black Templar to the Feet, leg struts, cannon arm, as well as the top exhaust piping. I applied two coats of Space Wolves Gray to some of the arm and leg armor panels. I used an old pot of Balthazar Gold for the round connection joints - and I remembered why I haven't used it in a long time. You either need to apply a million thin layers or kinda heap it on. Not a fan. Anyways, I shaded it with Army Painter Mid Brown Wash. I have to say, I am impressed with the Army Painter washes. The silver was coated with Vallejo Model Air Steel, and shaded with Army Painter Strong Tone wash. The olive green color was simply a mix of ScaleColor Inktense Chestnut + Green. Adding in a little white to give some opacity to touch up the ammo belt feed ramp. The front armor panel by the "face" was Iyanden Yellow, which I will certainly need to tidy up a bit more to get the appearance I am looking for. There are still some areas that need work and tidying up, cleaning up some splotches here and there, but overall it is coming along nicely... Observations: Snakebite Leather is solid. I mean, it is really ideal for pouches and leather packs over a zenithal prime. If there is a "utility" contrast paint that I feel performs as expected and is a true time saver, I think the Snakebite Leather is probably the one I would suggest. Belts, bags, pouches, holsters. I think it hits just the right spot for that work. Finally, one last touch up of Mitsuki's face before calling it a day. It is starting to get a little chalky/texture, so I have to just let is go at this point. I blended up some flesh tones with the Kimera Kolors using White + Red + Yellow Oxide, adding a bit more of the yellow to the top of the forehead, which also makes seems to look correct since the brightest highlight on her helmet is also in that same spot. I mixed up some Red + Blue (Red Shade) to make a purple and glazed that down into the shadows some more for some added depth again. There is a bit of a tone mismatch between the arms and the face, but oh well, at this point I am going to have to live with it or introduce a bit more pink/red into the arms. I think I was mostly successful in removing that odd dark line underneath the eye and I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Again, I have to keep reminding myself that these are for a game and I shouldn't be too critical. Save the super effort for competition or display work.
  20. * Completing the Zombicide: Invader core box (about 80% there) by end of Feb. * Taking private lessons to move towards display quality painting. Focusing on contrast and female skin. (Feb) * Get my photography area set up and learn to properly expose the pictures. (March) * Begin work on Super Fantasy Brawl. (TBD) * Actually paint a Sophie! (TBD)
  21. Thanks, and glad I am able to help others along the way! It's a fun game and I know that it will be totally worth it to have a completed set painted up to play.
  22. So I have only tried one of Vallejo's game washes, the sepia, and I had a bad experience with it as well (sorry Rignes!) where it would turn white or "frost" in the recesses when used as an all-over wash. I even tried mixing it thoroughly, and same problem. I could have received a lemon, but Citadel has been consistently fine. Army Painter (very limited use) also has worked fine for me as well.
  23. I think it looks really good! Gives a nice leathery feel to them, and now you have some temperature separation on the dragon too. I would just make sure the face area is highlighted pretty bright to be the focus point when viewed from the front.
  24. 12/15 - Baraka The usual zenithal priming routine, followed by blocking in colors. This time I was a little "smarter" and did the base first, instead of trying to mount the mini to the base afterwards. I spent time working on the face, changing things up a bit by using pretty much mostly Contrast Snakebite Leather + Iyanden Yellow, FW White Ink, Reaper Linen White for highlights, and introducing some Burgundy Wine into the shadows, and then adding some washes of Reikland Fleshshade. Backpack was again done with Contrast Black Templar, and then added some added highlights with FW White Ink. I also am experimenting with Contrast on some other sections, such as the "leather" bits. The darker ones were a mix of Black Templar and Snakebite Leather. The pouches are just coated with Iyanden Yellow, which I am going to use as a basecoat before applying a darker shade to see what results I get. The flag was done with simple Kimera paints; Green, Blue (Red Shade), Red, and Warm Yellow. Adjusting with black/white.
  25. 12/12 - Mitsuki Facial Reconstruction So with some fiddling for an hour or so, I finally think I have Mitsuki's face looking properly sculpted and not quite as Caucasian-space-marine. I used Reaper Burgundy Wine (a recommended paint from Liz Beckley) for adding shadows to the face, and then used a cocktail of Reikland Fleshshade, Burgundy Wine and Kimera Magenta to add some warm to the skin tone. I will still go back and highlight a bit further. Did the same routine, adding a bit more of the Magenta and some white to do paint the lips and add a little sheen. Back-power-pack was Contrast Black Templar, and again did the ink highlighting on the casing of the gun.
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