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Al Capwn

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Everything posted by Al Capwn

  1. Yep, that is the beauty of complementary colors, they cancel each other out if mixed or create contrast if placed next to each other. Since they are dilluted, you can also use the washes as glazes, to help add more shading or help add saturation (depending on how dark the wash is) in specific areas.
  2. Wow, it is looking really lovely. The contrast on the red lips to the more pale geisha skintone really pops. I think this will turn out really well and something to be proud of.
  3. I really like the color choices on this one! Yellow is a tricky color, and you did great! The purple book is a great pop color, and your stars look better than mine - great job!
  4. Certainly. You can use Flow Aid/Flow Improver. Many brands make it, be it Reaper, Vallejo or even Liquitex. Reaper's paints have a bit of flow aid in them already, which is why they tend to be a bit thinner and come off the brush easier. You can add a few drops, and with the help of an agitator, mix it up. From my experience, I will say that adding too much flow aid can cause some paints to separate more, so you will have to make sure to give them a good shake to mix up the pigment, acrylic medium and flow aid together.
  5. I only dared to paint a couple dozen space marines, so I admire your tenacity to tackle IG infantry! They are coming along nicely!
  6. 12/6 - Contrast...and Contrast... So I broke my "only Kimera" rule and added a couple of other Contrast paints to the lineup to test. Black Templar, Iyanden Yellow and Snakebite Leather. On Jared, I used Black Templar on the backpack...then reinforced the highlighted areas with some White Dawler Rowney FW Ink. Addtionally, I highlighted the tops of the knuckles and a tidied up a few select areas where the original white got other paint on it. The top of the power-backpack was done with Vallejo Metal Color Gold, then shaded with diluted Contrast Snakebite Leather, which adds a nice ambering to the normally green-gold biased Vallejo paint. In true Gee-Dubya fashion, I edge highlighted the gun casing with the same white ink. For Magnus, I coated the gun, robo arms, and powerpack with Black Templar. I highlighted the black bits with white ink, and did the (presumably) grenade launcher with Vallejo Metal Color Aluminum. The gold bits were given a coat of Metal Color Gold and shaded with Snakebite Leather, this time not diluted as much. This ambered it more towards a very "Dwarven" tarnished gold. Finally, filled in the gaps, did the base prep and got the big boss boy all primed up... So what are my thoughts on these Contrast paints? Well first, I really like the Black Templar paint. It is pretty good by itself, albeit it won't make things a pure-black, but rather a very dark bluegrey. The nature of the Contrast paint receding from the edges helps assist in placing edge highlights. Snakebite Leather I originally picked up for, you guessed it, leather. However, I read online that someone used it for shading gold. I think this is a really solid idea, but I think it needs to be cut a bit with medium or else it is a little too extreme. Iyanden Yellow I haven't played with nearly as much, but is certainly has quite a bit of orange as the shading color. I think for shading warm yellows, this might be a solid choice - which is what I intend to use it for. We will see what other uses to come up with in the future.
  7. Since you were working with acrylics, what differences/adjustments did you have to make given their faster drying time vs Bob's wet-on-wet technique with oils?
  8. Your skin tones look really good! I think hitting the eyes would help make the face pop, which is where everyone's gaze is usually drawn. Constructive Feedback: The entire mini has a lot of gloss sheen to it, and gives it more of a "plastic" appearance. On the skin and leather seems fine, but it registers oddly to me on the hair and cloth. If you have an anti-shine to nerf it down on some areas, to say a satin level, I feel it would improve the appearance overall. The hair/fur looks fantastic! Great job!
  9. Welcome to the hobby! Some craft paints aren't terrible, but some are pretty bad. Some have really poor coverage, and most have larger particulate sizes, making the paint somewhat thick or grainy. It isn't super critical when you first start, but can certainly become an issue later on as you troubleshoot, "Why doesn't this look as good as I want?" issues. I personally use both black and white primer, frequently called zenithal priming, as it gives a good black and white sketch. It also keeps dark areas dark, and light areas light. Looks good for your first mini - certainly better than my first! The secret to smooth paints is thinning your paints (usually with water) and multiple thin layers instead of fewer thicker ones.
  10. 12/1 - Base Experiments and Application This week was about breaking out of the comfort zone and trying something new. Now, I am not very good at bases, and it is something I frequently shy away from. However, recently there was a video by Midwinter Minis on making industrial/sci-fi bases. This method yields a smaller vertical height as opposed to the GreenStuff + texture stamps. It just so happened I had some of the scrap pieces laying around, using a paper plate for the main decking material. Instead of using a drill or hobby blade, I opted for a nail punch, which IMHO yields a superior result in making the domed deck plating divots/rivets. Just make sure the inside of the punch is clean so as not to flatten it out too much (the inner "bolts" are a bit more flat because of that) After about 5-10 minutes, I had something like this: I used metallics, Black and Vallejo Deep Sea Blue for the base tones, then added some Vallejo Orange Brown and some washes (black and brown) to add some oily/rusty/dirty appearance to the base. Next came the nerve-wracking committal...dissecting my painted mini from the stock base. No looking back now... ...and after pinning, gluing, some touch-ups clear coating and we have this: Now I didn't remove quite enough from the bottom of the boots, even though I sanded and shaved off quite a bit, and there is a bit of melty-ness towards the bottom. I am not entirely sure how to fix that, but since this is my first real "aftermarket" basing attempt, I am pretty happy with it. Magnus was touched up a bit with some metallics for the ammo boxes, and then some leather tones for the pouches and front/back padding flaps. I added some light shading with a Deep Sea Blue glaze to the leg section, and will probably add it carefully to other portions of the armor to give some more depth.
  11. Jared & Magnus, Cont. Not a lot of progress, but a few core things done. The base colors and highlights were done on Magnus' face, along with the hair and hair stubble. A light glaze of a diluted medium gray color along the hair line for the effect. I also blocked in the first of the two flag icons. I shaded the bottom half of the flag-knee with a purple, which really helps give it more definition. Finally, I mixed up some green tones and added them to the shoulder plate and ammo boxes. For Jared, I added some subtle shading blue-black to some of the white armor to give a bit more contrast. The under-armor plates were given a coat of blue, the second wire was changed from yellow to orange (orange contrasts green). I added the metallic gold (Vallejo Metal Color, Gold) to the studs/rivets and gave them a wash of Agrax Earthshade/Reikland Fleshshade. I noticed that some of the armor panels were also that military olive green color, so with a quick mix of black, green, and yellow oxide, I went to work on the shoulder plates. I glazed in a darker mix, once again to give it a bit more visual interest to an otherwise flat panel on the back. Nothing too extreme, but something subtle that still registers visually. Still working with the Kimera set almost exclusively (haven't been brave enough for skin tones), and it has been an interesting experience. In some ways it is really nice to mix your own paints; not feeling like you are tied to a formula or need to collect hundreds of paints. On the other, color matching for consistency is more challenging for sure. Also, until you "know" how to make a color, such as say a nice leather brown, you have to guess or fiddle. There is something to be said for the convenience of pre-mixed colors when you have something visually in front of you already. I still have my favorites from various lines (Reaper: Linen White, Burgundy Wine, Clear Red; Vallejo: Dark Sea Blue, Blue-Green, Cavalry Brown; GW: XV-88, Bugman's Glow, Cadian Fleshtone) but it has been a fun learning experience to see how colors come together rather than just grabbing something off the shelf.
  12. 11/23 Hunters Finished, Magnus Started I did some touch-ups on the hunters, applied matte varnish and then gloss varnished the tentacles per usual. With that, that completes the core box rank-and-file units... Eventually, I will circle back to Jared to finish his cattle prod and figure out what to do with this backpack. However, lets get started on Magnus! ...and another pesky mold line I missed...I might take some time and clean this one up...
  13. 11/14 - Xenos Hunters Taking a brief break from Jared, as I am not sure what to do with his backpack unit just yet to move on to finishing the rank-and-file xenos. A little help with basing this time around...no fingers were glued together in the process. Fast-forward a bit, and we get to something like this... ...and lather, rinse, repeat and we have spooky hunters. The tentacles I used just Contrast Flesh Tearer's Red, FW White Ink, and shaded with some of the original Contrast Space Wolves Gray. Since it is a blue-grey, it lends a purple tint, which is very convenient for shading the red!
  14. So the problem here, from as much as I can tell, is a lack on contrast. Your silver and blue both register as having the same value - that is they have the same amount of black/white in them, and so they read as a mid-tone. Additionally, you are working in exclusively cool colors - silver metallics have a lot of blue/black bias, so so when you combine a cool blue-white, you are almost repeating the same color tone. Let's take a look at a reference picture for a classic silver metallic dragon: Notice how there is quite a variation of colors? You have warm yellow-bronze tones in the underbelly, with some added green tones to show the reflected surface of the grass. For the main body, there are blues (silver metallic) to warm-purples for the shadows of the silver. Again, classic contrast trick of Cool Colors - Warm Shadows; Warm Colors, Cool Shadows. This helps break up the monotony of a single color, or single value. Blues and Yellows often pair well together when higher contrast is desired. Here's another picture that offers a bit more subdued approach: Again, bringing in a lot of other colors, some subtle browns working up to a very bright silver for the underbelly, but then contrasted with teal, purples, and blacks for the wings to contrast. The face and headcrest on both pictures both feature some brighter highlights to bring focus towards the face. If it were me, I would add some warmth to the chest area with yellowish golds, and introduce some of the cool blue colors into the silver. This is, of course, if we are trying to sell the idea of it being an "ice" dragon that silver dragons tend to represent.
  15. 11/2 Jared, Cont. Today was blocking in a few more base colors, and then putting in some freehand work. As I expected, I am terrible at free hand. Especially shapes that have to be symmetrical, such as stars - but it has to be done, and from a distance, they aren't too bad. I applied a Nuln Oil wash to the gun to darken it up a bit, and then applied Agrax to the leather bits as well as the brass hoses and connectors. I applied Vallejo Metal Color Aluminum to the belt, then went over it with Contrast Space Wolves Gray,
  16. 10/31 - Survivor Jared Happy Halloween everyone! So I have been busy and haven't been able to pick up a brush until recently. I decided to work on Jared next. Standard routine so far, nothing new to see here. Zenithal priming followed by blocking in some colors. I applied a couple of thin glazes of Deep Sea Blue to add some more shading and interest, though it is really subtle.
  17. As a massive fan of the Genesis Shadowrun game, there are a few things that crop up to mind. What does the backdrop scene represent? Corporate office space, like a conference room or a server room? A corp hallway? An alleyway in the arcology? If inside a corporate building, there could be motivational posters, office chairs, plants, and glass panels (likely shattered at this point). I like the idea of that corporate beige color though. Shadowrun is a very high-tech/low life dystopian setting ala Bladerunner. If we are keeping that theme, then I think the walls need bullet holes and shell casings...copious amounts of them. Bits of blownout drywall. If just fantasy, then perhaps scorch marks, but likely both guns and spells if SR is the setting.
  18. 10/8 - Mitsuki, Cont. At this point, I am considering Mitsuki nearly tabletop worthy, with only a few minor corrections left. to make, such as touching up the hoses on the back. Steps take here were to glaze in some additional colors, namely on the white armor on the leg, as well as glazing in some Reaper Burgundy Wine for the skin tones on the arm, which turned out really nice. I opted for some type of gem-like effect on her scanner thingy, and I will gloss coat it to make it look like a lens after the initial matte varnish is applied. The hose-padding was Vallejo Deep Sea Blue mixed with some Kimera Black and White. So not entirely a Kimera paintjob since I "cheated" a little, but almost.
  19. Like what Doug mentioned, but with some edge highlights. Check out this tutorial here.
  20. First of all, welcome to the forums! You are doing great for starting out, even bravely tackling eyes! In regards to the face, I use a magnifier head set (optivisor) and a really bright led lamp. This is also one of the few times that I find having a fairly small brush to be useful. A size 00 to 1. Push highlights up to his cheeks, just under the eyes. If it gets too bright, glaze your mid tone over it. Otherwise, it really is just practice. Painting in details that are not sculpted in very well is challenging, so I would temper my expectations at first, because it is an uphill battle. There are others with more experience who can provide advice. In regards to glazes, your brush will always deposit a little more at the end of your brush stroke. If you are getting a wash effect, that means you have too much liquid loaded in your brush. Continue to dab your brush on a paper towel until it is only damp, and not soaking wet. I tend to try to use glazes on flat-ish surfaces, such as faces or the flats of cloaks, and not on ridges where the paint can "run off" (another sign that too much liquid was loaded in the brush). Blending or obtaining a smooth gradient can really depend on what color it is. Red behaves differently than Green. Blue behaves differently than Yellow. So giving advice is very much color centric. What color are you wanting to highlight the tail with? Is it supposed to be like a demon red, or closer to a really ruddy red/brown? Finally, in regards to finishes/varnish/clear coats. Model Masters/Testors Dullcote, AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish, or Army Painter AntiShine will all knock out the majority of the shine from glossy inks or washes. Also, most washes usually aren't glossy, but can become glossy if you don't shake them. The finish won't eliminate all of the shine, but the vast majority. Are you sure about that? My bottles of AK Interactive and Vallejo varnish (printed as such) disagree with you. ;) Wiping varnish is also used in woodworking, so perhaps the name has been somewhat relegated as a catch all.
  21. 10/5 - Mitsuki, Cont. Clocked in some more time and got a bit more done. Some browns for the leather satchels, an olive green for the pants, and used some green/yellow/red oxide to make a green for the helmet. Airbrushed the top of the helmet to give it a nice transition, but used the brush for the front of the helmet. Arms basecoated in Rosy Shadow, and will highlight up a bit later. Still have to work on the boots, armor and scanner/weapon/backpack tech.
  22. 10/3 - Mitsuki, Cont. Not a lot done this go around, spent a good hour and a half on working on the eyes and skin tones. Since she has really pale skin, I decided to use Reaper's Rosy Skin triad with Fair Skin Highlight and White to work up to the highlights.
  23. 10/1 - Survivor Mitsuki In the words of a wise man, you gotta know when to hold 'em and know when to fold 'em, so moving on from Vivian for now to pursue hopefully greener, or in this case, white and browner pastures. This time around I took a couple of extra steps for the gee-wiz factor. The biggest one being applying a wash of Nuln Oil Gloss and then re-applying the white ink afterwards to help sketch in some of the details and "black line" ahead of time. Not sure how much of a value added it was, but it certainly helped pick out some of the details while still maintaining the overall light values.
  24. Very nice, vibrant and tidy work! Great job!
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