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Al Capwn

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Everything posted by Al Capwn

  1. Like what Doug mentioned, but with some edge highlights. Check out this tutorial here.
  2. First of all, welcome to the forums! You are doing great for starting out, even bravely tackling eyes! In regards to the face, I use a magnifier head set (optivisor) and a really bright led lamp. This is also one of the few times that I find having a fairly small brush to be useful. A size 00 to 1. Push highlights up to his cheeks, just under the eyes. If it gets too bright, glaze your mid tone over it. Otherwise, it really is just practice. Painting in details that are not sculpted in very well is challenging, so I would temper my expectations at first, because it is an uphill battle. There are others with more experience who can provide advice. In regards to glazes, your brush will always deposit a little more at the end of your brush stroke. If you are getting a wash effect, that means you have too much liquid loaded in your brush. Continue to dab your brush on a paper towel until it is only damp, and not soaking wet. I tend to try to use glazes on flat-ish surfaces, such as faces or the flats of cloaks, and not on ridges where the paint can "run off" (another sign that too much liquid was loaded in the brush). Blending or obtaining a smooth gradient can really depend on what color it is. Red behaves differently than Green. Blue behaves differently than Yellow. So giving advice is very much color centric. What color are you wanting to highlight the tail with? Is it supposed to be like a demon red, or closer to a really ruddy red/brown? Finally, in regards to finishes/varnish/clear coats. Model Masters/Testors Dullcote, AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish, or Army Painter AntiShine will all knock out the majority of the shine from glossy inks or washes. Also, most washes usually aren't glossy, but can become glossy if you don't shake them. The finish won't eliminate all of the shine, but the vast majority. Are you sure about that? My bottles of AK Interactive and Vallejo varnish (printed as such) disagree with you. ;) Wiping varnish is also used in woodworking, so perhaps the name has been somewhat relegated as a catch all.
  3. 10/5 - Mitsuki, Cont. Clocked in some more time and got a bit more done. Some browns for the leather satchels, an olive green for the pants, and used some green/yellow/red oxide to make a green for the helmet. Airbrushed the top of the helmet to give it a nice transition, but used the brush for the front of the helmet. Arms basecoated in Rosy Shadow, and will highlight up a bit later. Still have to work on the boots, armor and scanner/weapon/backpack tech.
  4. 10/3 - Mitsuki, Cont. Not a lot done this go around, spent a good hour and a half on working on the eyes and skin tones. Since she has really pale skin, I decided to use Reaper's Rosy Skin triad with Fair Skin Highlight and White to work up to the highlights.
  5. 10/1 - Survivor Mitsuki In the words of a wise man, you gotta know when to hold 'em and know when to fold 'em, so moving on from Vivian for now to pursue hopefully greener, or in this case, white and browner pastures. This time around I took a couple of extra steps for the gee-wiz factor. The biggest one being applying a wash of Nuln Oil Gloss and then re-applying the white ink afterwards to help sketch in some of the details and "black line" ahead of time. Not sure how much of a value added it was, but it certainly helped pick out some of the details while still maintaining the overall light values.
  6. Very nice, vibrant and tidy work! Great job!
  7. Nope, those are Model Color and those are garbage. You will want Vallejo Metal Color, if anything. It is the name of the line and different bottle. Such as this: Vallejo Metal Color. ...and yes, they are 10 bucks a pop, so I would start with only one, such as Silver. I will eat my imaginary hat if they are not the best acrylic metal paints.
  8. This is looking really good. Excellent composition so far, and that book really looks like it is glowing in that mysterious Pulp Fiction briefcase kind of way.
  9. 9/29 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. The past couple of days have been mostly working on the hair, leather bits and metallic bits. I also added the muzzle heat burn effect to the end of the flamethrower.
  10. True Metallic Metals (TMM) can be done; Michael Proctor has a solid class on doing them to look right. You aren't alone, but I will say this: With the exception of Vallejo Metal Color, most metallics are pretty terrible. They tend to be thick, yet do not thin easily. You can apply the principles of NMM to TMM, but if you are looking for a good metallic paint, Reaper unfortunately is not one of them and in fact is prob one of their weakest line ups. The trick to TMM is to kill the sheen in the shadows; you can do so fairly easily with a wash or the Reaper Liner paints. Normally I am not a brand fan boy per se, but pick up a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color and I can pretty much promise you an entirely different experience. Somewhat spendy, but worth every penny. That being said, they really only have a solid range in the "Silver" line-up (Gunmetal, Steel, Silver and Alluminum/Chrome). The Copper and Gold are smooth, but I don't particularly like the Gold since it leans towards the Green-Gold spectrum, and I prefer my Gold colors to learn towards Orange/Brown.
  11. Not an expert, but I have owned or used the following: Cheap harbor freight airbrush. Cheap Iwata Revolution knock-off. Iwata Neo TRN-2 Iwata Neo CN (Friend's) Badger Patriot 105 Badger SOTAR 20/20 I really liked my friend's Iwata Neo CN quite a bit and one of the benefits with the Iwata was the end-cap you are able to internally mix the paint. The trigger on it is also very smooth. The end-cap of the Badger brushes are a little easier to clean, but you lack the convenience of being able to internally mix (backflow technique) easily. I like supporting Badger because it is a small US business that still makes stuff in the USA, and their customer service has a good reputation. However, I really do wish they had a similar needle-protector like the Iwatas. In terms of brands, there are a few major brands out there that all offer a quality brush in a variety of price-points. Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, Grex, and Badger are probably the brands that come up the most. Airbrushes, like traditional brushes, are often a matter of taste, and folks will have their personal preferences. Kenny Boucher often uses an Iwata Eclipse, James Wappel uses a SOTAR 20/20 (even for priming) and I am sure there are many others who use H&S/Grex. For 28mm figures, such as a typical bones "human" I really like the SOTAR. It allows for a bit more precision in highlighting, sips paint, and the smaller paint cup gives it more of a "pencil" feel. For priming purposes or for painting larger things, such as vehicles or large monsters, I break out either the Patriot 105 or the TRN-2. The TRN-2 is nice because it has more of a pistol grip, thus really comfortable for longer spraying sessions. Down side is that the same grip doesn't allow it to rest in the airbrush holder. I use a mix of Vallejo Flow Improver and water to mix non-airbrush paints inside of the cup, and I have been using an inexpensive Harbor Freight compressor w/ a moisture trap and so far haven't experienced any major issues. The compressor is neither quiet nor loud, but somewhere in between - I would say about the same noise level as a box fan on a medium setting. Won't wake the neighbors, but I wouldn't want to try and sleep in the same room with it. I would also suggest some airbrush cleaner as well, since properly cleaning the airbrush will keep it from gumming up. The quick disconnects are quite convenient both for cleaning purposes as well as switching between multiple airbrushes later on down the road if you so choose. An airbrush holder + cleaning pot is also very handy to spray out residue and keep the overspray contained during cleaning cycles.
  12. 9/27 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. Have you ever experienced one of those moments where you are so frustrated you want to start over completely? Well that was me last night. I kept going back and forth with the skin tones, and I was working the paint too long, building up some ugly texture. It was getting ridiculous. It got to a point that it looked like this: So out came the rubbing alcohol, and I wiped the paste off her face and started over...I was up until 3AM working on her face, because I just wasn't happy with it. I still am not totally satisfied, but at least it is getting there. I need to dial down some of the harsher highlights on the nose and chin and smooth out a bit more on the forehead. Her right eye looks pretty good, but her left is a little too big, but for the life of me I cannot seem to get them dialed in. I was pretty happy with Cole's face, and I have been happy with some of my previous Black Plague stuff, but this one...this one is just being a challenge. Sometimes you feel like you have an "off" day or mini, and this is one of them. I did find my class notes from Derek and Erin's classes, so that was helpful, but I think this is more of a paint consistency battle at the moment. @Cicciopiu I have some glaze medium and thinner, but no airbrush thinner - just airbrush flow improver.
  13. 9/26 - Survivor Vivian, Cont. Tonight was working on skin tones, and the green suit. Still continuing to use the Kimera colors for everything but the skin tones. Speaking of skin, this time I incorporated some Vallejo Sunny Skintone into the rotation. Since the skintone is so light, I am fighting the chalkiness/texturing of the paint. I will likely have to apply some glazes to smooth some of it out. I also am having a doozy of a time trying to get her mouth/lips shaped correctly. I recall @Corporea going over lips and facial structure and something-something glossy sheen in her skin class, but I will have to dig around and see if I can find my notes...
  14. 9/25 - Survivor Vivian With Cole wrapping up, I figured I would get a start on Vivian. I still haven't decided what I want to do for the bases. On one hand, the texture stamps are cool, but my concern is that the added height will make them unable to fit in the stock storage trays. I will likely want to have a completely replacement of the bases altogether, or think of some creative ideas on modifying the existing base to make it more interesting. Now this miniature is going to be a little more challenging because the details on the face, and really in some other spots, are really soft. So more effort is going to be put on my end to get the facial details to look right. On the other hand, her face does have quite a bit of space to do some nice blends. Her skin tone is pretty fair, so that will be an interesting challenge. Also I might try going for some type of heat-stained-metal effect for the flame-thrower.
  15. 9/21 - Cole, cont. Minor touches done here. Touched up the belt loops, blacked out the base, painted the shoes, added some minor shading to the leather pant armor, painted the side pouches and his fingerless gloves, and then did the metallics. Now, I am not really happy with the gun details, they are very soft. I may fix that...
  16. Yep, 100 percent the case. "Cool" Yellows (like a lemon yellow) Reds and some Purples (which contain Red, of course) are naturally very transparent by the nature of the pigment used. That is why thinking in terms of value/contrast instead of color first is often helpful. Some hobby paints contain multiple pigments to provide more opacity. As such, some colors are very opaque, such as paints that contain iron oxide (rusty red) or titanium (white). Paint is "weird" in that you are working with pigments that are blocking wavelengths. Which is why mixing a white with red causes pink whereas layering red over the top of white/pink looks different.
  17. Glad I was able to help! I never thought inks needed shaking either until my white was pretty much all water...live and learn!
  18. 9/19 - Cole, cont. I spent some time cleaning up his beard and adding in some highlights, added the light reflection to the eyes, and decided to with a warm yellow instead of cool for the jacket. I used a combination of Yellow Ochre and Warm Yellow, used a Reikland Fleshshade wash and then went back over with Warm Yellow + White. I added addition shading to the red jacket with some glazes of Violet. I then highlighted the front of the folds in the pants with a blend of Black, White, Phalto Green and Phalto Blue.
  19. I had the same problem with my FW Ink once. The issue was I didn't shake it and the pigment had settled. Just like paints, inks apparantly need agitation. Reducing pressure and increasing air should help as well, but if you are getting mostly water it means you are applying too heavily or the ink isn't mixed.
  20. 9/17 - Civilian Cole After painting up a jillion of the bad guys, I figured I would take a break to work on one of the survivors. I took my time to try and clean up some of the more egregious mold lines and patch a small hole in the side of one of his boots. I also took another test of the catwalk grating, this time on a proper sized base... After a quick prime, a couple coats of various metallics and a black wash, it looks like this: After the zenithal prime... Now for Cole I really wanted to test out the new Kimera Kolors set and run it through its paces to see what I could do with it. I was really impressed with some of the results. Obviously still quite a bit to do and of course I need to make some touch ups, but overall I was really impressed. The front of the pants I ended up painting more opaque, and I basically glazed the back of the pants. They really do glaze amazingly well, very impressed. I toyed with layering on the straps on the back of his thighs, and I will need to introduce some warmer brown tones to dial it in. The front colors are pretty flat, so I will need to reference the zenithal pictures to provide some proper shading and highlighting. Here was my stopping point by the end of the night. I ended up using the GW Flesh combination (Bugmans Glow/Cadian Fleshtone/Kislev Flesh) plus some of the Kimera White since GW has a bit more satin in finish. While I could have mixed up some flesh tones, I decided to be a bit lazy...
  21. Alright, so now that I have a point of reference of what you are shooting for, I can point in a fairly specific direction. As @Sanael mentioned, you can go two directions to highlight red. The first is towards white, which will push it towards pink. Using a bright flesh tone is one color that works well for that. The other is towards yellow, meaning pushing into oranges. Pale yellows, can help here too. Now a method for red that I like, that I also implemented with magenta, is what Vince Venturella and Liz Beckley demoed, which is almost like "reverse" layering: Blackline your borders, basecoat with your shadow tone (say a deep red brown), work up to a midtone red, say Reaper Heraldic Red. Now instead of mixing white or yellow into your red paint, take white/offwhite and paint over top of the mini as if you would be applying a hightlight. Resist the urge to panic. Take your brightest red such as reaper clear red, glaze over top 2-3 times. You can apply more coats to any rough transitions to smooth it out. Repeat the white/offwhite+glaze combo in smaller and smaller areas. This will give you a gradient and a very vibrant and saturated red. Check out Vince Venturella Hobby Cheating #159 for an example application.
  22. Great start so far! What are some of your goals? How much time and effort do you want to put in? Is this going to be a playing piece, or a display piece, or simply practice piece for techniques? Are you wanting to aggressively practice in preparation for competition, or just relax and enjoy the ride? Advice can very often be goal specific, so let us know what you are shooting for! All of that being said, I would counter that over-highlighting is better than under-highlighting. Here is your example in grayscale to give you an idea: Now Derek is insanely talented, and I wish I could paint a fraction as well as he does, so I only use this picture as a reference example in terms of contrast. There are actually some very bright values in his example, (sword, spear tips, face, armor, etc) so never be afraid to push your contrast (highlights and shadows) towards the extremes. In fact, I would say your values with the green is just fine! So you can somewhat use that picture as a guide of how dark or bright things can be! So an excellent start overall, and look forward to seeing your progress! Welcome the the hobby!
  23. 9/15 - Tanks Complete Final steps taken: Applied dilluted Flesh Tearer's Red to the bottom of some of the tentacles and "spore" spots. Applied AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish, then applied Vallejo Gloss varnish over the eyes, brain, spine-thing, claws, and tentacles. ...and the box is filling up...
  24. 9/13-14 - Home Stretch... Nearing the end of this "speed paint" of these tanks. The following was done: Mixed up Reaper Linen White and GW Agrax Earthshade and blended it on the face, cleaning up some of the darker areas and giving a bit more warmth. Added Linen White to the pupils, then glazed over GW's green gemstone paint for the glowing eyes. Applied Reaper Dungeon Slime to the danger-noodle-mouth-tentacle. Glazed over with Scale75 Yellow ink. The artwork has it colored similarly to the skin, but I wanted something different. Finished the bases by blending in Vallejo Orange-Brown and Cavalry Brown. Cleaned up the bottoms a bit with another coat of Vallejo Black.
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