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Al Capwn

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  1. 9/9-10 - Tank Progress Steps taken as follows: Took some FW White Ink + Light Orange ink mix and glazed some highlights on the back of the tank's spine-blob thing. Applied a wash of GW Reikland Fleshshade over the spine-blob. Applied a GW Biel-Tan Green wash over the brain to darken the recesses a bit more. Applied VMC Cavalry Brown to the bases. Finished applying Flesh Tearer's Red on the brain-stem, face mandibles, claws and toenails. I once again had help from my lovely assistant, who decided to help paint the rims of the bases...not bad, but will require wee-bit of touch up of course.
  2. Some critical critiques: Like @Citrine mentioned, the fluid in specifically the right-most bottle on the belt does not appear to be parallel with the horizon/ground. Bottles themselves look really good, IMHO. For blood...it is a liquid and so it reacts differently on different materials. On a smooth non-absorbent surface, such as a blade, it will remain wet longer and retain its glossy red luster. On fabrics, like most liquids, it tends to be absorbed and wick into the fibers. This causes it to expand outward as the cloth fibers suck it up; but also de-saturates a bit (white being a rare exception) and certainly loses its gloss nature as the liquid is no longer reflecting off a smooth surface. Anyways, this is probably way more information than you reasonably care about, but if you are looking for accuracy - here ya go (forensics website that has blood spatter analysis). The short version would be to tone down the gloss and saturation of red on fabrics (like on the bottom of the cloak), and retain it (if very fresh) for smooth surfaces. The back of the cloak on the second picture looks really good, the third picture the back looks a little glossy. Personal preference, but if the cloak is worn and dirty, the sheen should probably be brought down a bit. Could just be the light/camera though. All of that being said, you paint at a higher level than me; so take these observations with a grain of salt! That olive green cloak looks most excellent.
  3. In my experience, you can paint over it, but it is still a fairly delicate surface due to the shrinking nature of the crackle paint. I have not tried it personally, but there are ways to seal basing material in using a thinned down PVA glue mix that may help keep all of the cracked surfaces tacked down nicely. Also for what it is worth, you absolutely must have a primer coat underneath before applying it, otherwise it will just slough off entirely...should seem obvious, but learned that from personal experience.
  4. 9/7-8 - Xeno Tanks These models had quite a few gaps near the neck joint as well as some pretty serious mold lines/flashing. I took some time to clean up the worst offenders, but again, I wasn't spending a lot of time in prepping them. I took some of Reaper's Brush On Sealer and filled the seam around the neck. I forgot who mentioned that trick, fairly certain I read here on the forums. Could have been at ReaperCon...could have been both. I also hit a few areas that looked fairly dodgy from scraping mold lines or cutting away junk with the Xacto. Afterwards it looked like this: The usual basing + zenithal priming routine gets us to here: About halfway through base coating I hear "Daddy, can I help you paint?" Sure, why not - this is a step that is pretty difficult to really mess up anyways, so might as well have some help in the process... She actually did a really good job, avoiding the areas I pointed out and even cleaning off excess paint on the sides of the GW pot (without me saying anything)! She managed to knock out a solid 6 of them more-or-less by herself (I did a few touch-ups here and there) before she decided to bound off to another project. I mixed up some Contrast medium and some Scale75 Inktense Green with a bit of Inktense Yellow, and applied it to his cranium. I did the same only with Yellow and a bit of Red for the spine...bulge...thing...and finally applied some Contrast Flesh Tearer's Red to the veins. I diluted Flesh Tearer's Red about 50% and applied to his squid-face and under some of the squid tentacles to give a more pink vibe.
  5. It does look like it, doesn't it? I am fairly certain it is just the poor lighting in the kitchen where I snapped the picture. They are pretty beige in the daylight.
  6. This is a living document, and as such will be updated as more information and discoveries are made with this set. Any future adjustments or formulations will be annotated here as well, so long as my memory holds up. Introduction / Overview First Impressions Philosophy of Use / Summary 1 - Introduction / Overview Kimera Kolors is a small-batch paint line manufactured by Pegaso Models based in Italy. Each paint contains 30ML of a single pigment acrylic in snap-capped dropper bottle. The Pure Pigments set contains 14 bottles; 13 colors and 1 bottle of Satin medium. Each bottle has an agitator bead included. At the time of this writing the price of the set is 56.56 Euro - and last time that I checked, there is a discount code from Orc Painter Nerd to save 15% off (orcpainternerd15). They are principally designed as a paint set for mixing colors. 2 - First Impressions The first observation I had when using the paints was the incredible saturation of color. The high pigment count in the paints is readily apparent, and the closest comparison I can make is to that of Inks. However, their consistency is somewhere between Vallejo Model Color and Scale75 ScaleColor paints. The default finish is very matte, much closer to ScaleColor's dead-flat finish. Because each bottle is a single pigment, that also means that the properties of these individual pigments also comes into play. That means some colors are naturally more opaque (the obvious being white) where others are very transparent (Phtalo Green, Orange, Red, etc.) - because of this, multiple coats or the addition of Black/White is necessary to achieve full opacity of color. Blending is challenging if attempting to use Layering/Feathering due to the high pigment count. If you are used to the Reaper "triad" method, this approach will be an uphill climb. The colors are very bold in nature, and in their pure default form they really are a bit of a challenge to get gradients to be established. They are much closer to working with what I can only describe as a heavy-body ink. Because of the default lack of White in the color base, they also glaze fantastically - much like an ink, BUT the added benefit being that they dry matte, whereas inks (and some paints when thinned) tend to be glossy. These paints can be thinned extremely (and often need to be for glazes) and they retain their imparting tinting qualities with a matte finish. This also means that just like inks, a little bit goes a LONG way. However, I did find that like ScaleColor, they do tend to wet-blend fairly well. However, they tend to have a fairly short drying time (both a pro and con) which means you have to work reasonably quickly. If you work the paint too long, you risk pulling up layers and introducing texture. This is common across multiple paint lines, but again, very similar in behavior to ScaleColor. While they dry quickly, you still need a little more drying time even when you "think" it is dry, some of the the under layers may still be setting up. Finally, color mixing is a joy. You get exactly what you think you should, and you can adjust the color as much as you like and get the results you would expect without de-saturating the color; unless that is what you want to do! Creating flesh-tones, for example, is shockingly simple. With a few mixes of Red Oxide + White or introducing some Yellow Ochre/Orange, you can create some really lovely shades with very minimal effort. The colors are vibrant out of the bottle, but can obviously be adjusted however you wish by adding a complementary color, or Black/White. Mixing in Phtalo Green with Red Oxide gives wonderful ranges of Browns as you would expect. 3 - Philosophy of Use & Summary So who is this set for, and what do I plan on doing with it? Well, I believe there are a lot of strong points to this set. However, much like ScaleColor (as I have alluded to multiple times already) there is a steep learning curve. The first learning curve is understanding how each paint behaves and its properties. The tinting strength of each pigment and its opacity varies with each color. Much like the Citadel Contrast paints, you may discover some colors simply are stronger than others. Thankfully, you only need to know the proprieties of 13 paints, rather than an extreme range of colors. The second learning curve is color theory and understanding how to mix paints to get the color you are looking for, and being able to do so consistently. Thankfully this set is a great tool for understanding color theory, mixing and the underlying foundation of how paints are made and behave. These are truly "artist" paints, in that I feel they would appeal to those who have a background in classic artist paints or those who [are used to/want] to work with a limited palette. They will not lend themselves well to army painting, or even necessarily table-top painters who want to get specific colors on a model quickly and who likely want opacity out of the gate. The default matte finish (like ScaleColor) will also highlight deficiencies in blending very rapidly compared to any other type of finish. The included Satin medium can thankfully help hide some of that. For those who are aspiring to "up their painting game" towards display quality, my personal opinion is that I feel that the matte finish will help in that regard. You are forced to acknowledge that the gradients are not as smooth as you like, and in turn, you are forced to blend "properly" and not hide behind a finish to conceal errors. If you can get a clean gradient/transition with a matte finish, you know that you have done it right. I plan on continuing to experiment and play with the various color combinations, finding tones that I can easily replicate and apply. Some color combinations will likely become recipes I incorporate into my painting process, and it is nice to know that I can safely mix and adjust colors freely. I also will likely use these paints as "boosters" to my existing line-up of paints; seeing what results they provide to my existing range of paints and seeing if they fill a role similar to inks in boosting color saturation. This section will likely be updated to provide pictures and results of further testing in the incorporation into other paint lines. In summary, this set may be for you if you... Are interested in "how paint works under the hood". Want to mix your own colors, or work with a limited palette. Enjoy a matte finish and primarily work on single miniatures (i.e. not armies). Enjoy working with inks. Enjoy wet-blending & glazing as primary blending methods. Enjoy ScaleColor, but not the concrete-shake-it-until-your-arm-falls-off consistency. This set is likely not for you if you... Want mostly opaque colors. Are used to "base/shade/highlight" approach or blend primarily in a Layering method. Want ease of consistency of color for multiple miniatures.
  7. "...but the forth one stayed up; and that's what you gonna get: The strongest castle brush in these islands!" All of the brushes I have ordered online have come delivered in perfect condition, but I have only good things about Dick Blick's customer service should something go awry. For what it is worth I have used both Secret Weapon and Amazon as well for brushes in the past with no issues.
  8. 9/4-6 Wrapping Up Workers So now the past few days has been doing a few touch ups as mentioned. I applied a coat of AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish (# 183) and then went back and brushed the tentacles and eyes with Vallejo gloss varnish to stand out. Here are pictures of the finished workers. ...and here is the entire gang of 35... The "Mars" bases really help set them off. I am glad I took the extra time to do that step as it really helps give more pop to the miniatures. They aren't perfect. Some have paint on the knees where I accidentally got some on during the base painting. Some have a darker head tone. Some have some pretty glaring paint cleanup issues. Some of the hoods aren't painted the right color, and some tentacles in the shadows got missed - but as a whole, those little mistakes are harder to notice.
  9. Full paint review coming in the upcoming days/weeks... I am pretty sure @Cyradis has some experience with this set. Pretty excited to try it out.
  10. Well done and congrats on the placements! Really nice dynamic scene!
  11. Excellent work! I agree with some other folks - the shadows on the base really are what sells the "setting sun" effect. And yes, it does have that retro sci-fi vibe to it. Congrats on the placement, and well deserved.
  12. 9/2-3 - More progress... I finished the eyes and applied a quick varnish coat on the first 15 to lock them into a "good enough for now" state and protect them a bit. The light is at the end of the tunnel, the rest of the workers have all been based, primed, and the base colors applied. If this looks familiar...you would be correct. I feel like it is Deja Vu. That is just part of the business of batch painting. A lot of the same steps, repeated over and over again. Personal anecdote for future me: I certainly enjoy painting individual units to a higher standard than just going through the motions and doing the same process over and over again. It is good painting exercise, and I am sure that I am developing better brush control as I continue to run through them, but does it feel like tedious work. I ran out of mini solo cups and had to use a bottle cap for the last guy. Hang in there fella! I ended up using more cork to cover up some of the areas where the superglue + baking soda didn't take, covering up some of the scarring on the worst offenders. Some of the other units still have a few missing spots here and there, but for me, it isn't something worth chasing. Just like I didn't bother with prepping for mold lines. Just too many units and it would have taken a lot of time for not a lot of reward. Heroes, yes. Fodder, no. Sorry worker xenos, that is just the way the cork crumbles. Still to do is blend in (I have been wet blending it messily) Orange Brown to the front edge to give it that color depth (the far right ones in the pic already have it applied) like usual. The rest of the detail steps still need done, such as highlight the tentacles with the white ink+fluorescent magenta combo, eyes (used Linen White + the GW Green gemstone paint to get a glow effect), etc. Oh, I also need to get my whole camera setup to keep from taking potato pictures. I'll save that for when all of these guys are complete.
  13. Somewhat piggy-backing on what @Guindyloo mentioned is that tabletop (or what I would say painting for personal enjoyment) is different than competition painting (attempting to impress others/push personal limitations of capabilities). Most of the time, those two are mutually exclusive. I am not in a place to give advice on how to move forward in your painting journey, but if you choose to continue to compete (in painters), I wish you the best of luck and I hope you find the areas you need to develop to get to where you want to go. If you decide not to continue to compete (in painters), then I hope that you continue to find joy in painting what you enjoy, and teaching others what you have learned along the way. If it makes you feel any better, you are not alone in feeling disappointment or the struggle with placements. Many other painters have gone through the same process.
  14. 9/1 - Progress... Today was mostly "Planning our work, then working our plan" and getting down to business. At the end of the day, I was able to get the all of the base coats, bases painted and rims cleaned up. I made a slight adjustment to the 'face' recipe by diluting the Agrax Earthshade by about 50% with some glaze medium and water. This helped retain some of the under-shade to be closer to that pale skin color in the pictures. I also couldn't help myself and started to play with the fluorescent magenta, alternating layers of white and magenta to push the contrast further and further up. As a last step, I applied some of the ScaleColor Inktensity Violet to the ends of the tentacles/tendrils. Below are a couple of examples; the first was one of the original 3 I was working on, the second is one of the newer ones. I only did it to a few of them, but I really like the pop it gives and helps give them a bit of visual interest, without really taking too much time to apply. This will likely be part of the later "highlight" and details stage. Still to do are the little details such as eyes, and varnishing (to include a gloss varnish for the tentacles to really make them stand out). However, we aren't quite there yet! So that is a total of 15 at this stage. There are 20 more workers to go, so making steady progress.
  15. 8/31 - Worker Assembly Line With the main theme and concept put in place, now it is a matter of finding an assembly-line method and getting the order of operations correctly. Step one is applying a thin layer of superglue to the base. Step two is applying baking soda and removing the excess. Step three is applying a coat of black primer all over. Step four is applying gray primer at ~60 degree angle. Step five is applying white ink at roughly ~80-90 degrees. Apply base coats (Contrast Space Wolves Grey (Body), Agrax Earthshade (Head), Flesh Tearer's Red (Tentacles/Venthood thingy/Hands) Apply Vallejo Cavalry Brown + Vallejo Orange Brown to the base; blending the colors to give some subtle shading. Clean up the rim of the bases with black. Extra steps that can be taken is to do the tiny details, such as eyes and spikes, etc. For the guys in the back, I added a bit of Vallejo Florescent Magenta to the tentacles to really push up that contrast and give it an "otherworldly" quality to them. Like @Cicciopiu mentioned, coming up with a process and working in "phases" where you can come back and add more later if you want but still have some definitive stop-points. I also took a few and added some cork "rocks" just to see if that would do much and maybe help break up some of the monotony. I am not sure if that goal was accomplished or not, and if it is worth the extra effort. You know...only a few dozen more to go...
  16. 8/29 - Worker Xeno Test #2 So after seeing numerous posts using Citadel Contrast with Zombicide Invader (most notably @Brianuk but also some work over at BoardGameGeek ), I figured that this would be the appropriate time to test them out. So I made a quick trip and ended up picking up Space Wolves Gray (a color also suggested by Vince Venturella for some NMM effects) and Flesh Tearer's Red, as well as some Contrast Medium. I did the usual zenithal priming routine, but this time I made sure to use some FW White Ink for the highlight color and went a bit more liberally with it. I used the FW White Ink to also tint the Flesh Tearer's Red to a pink to highlight the tentacles, and applied Agrax Earthshade and some of the white ink for his dome. In the future I might avoid covering his head with the blue-gray color. Here were the results - most of the work was done in under 10 minutes, with some finer details and tinkering around with the Contrast stuff going on for another 45 or so... So what are my observations and thoughts regarding Contrast? Well, I honestly had a pretty big bias against them originally. I thought they would be a gimmick, or at least not very good, or basically just another "wash" or "ink". I figured I would give them a try so I could honestly dunk on them for being overpriced garbage. However...I was wrong. I am actually quite impressed by two things: First is the level of saturation. The Flesh Tearer's Red is insanely saturated. In its pure form, it could almost pass as real blood - with a a bit of the Contrast medium, it looks like you just had a bad Xacto accident. The stuff on his arms had to be diluted pretty significantly to keep it from being a bloodbath. Even still, it was a bit overkill. The Space Wolves Gray really impressed me. It is pretty thin and has not nearly the level of coverage, so it is a bit more subtle, but still did a fine job of shading the model appropriately. The second is the ability of the Contrast paints to completely tint a model like both a glaze/wash, but with minimal coffee staining. Washes have the tendency to somewhat settle indiscriminately and are pretty bad for any flat surfaces. The Contrast paints don't quite have that same quality to them. In some weird fashion they have more body to them than a wash, but still has a boatload of flow additive that it seeks out the recesses. Now, it doesn't hurt that this model has oodles of little crevasses and bumps to really make the stuff shine. So while I won't be trading out my regular paints for Contrast, I will say there are some pretty good colors out there that really benefit from any Value Sketch/Sketch Style/Underpainting paint style. Something that I was actively using for the Black Plague zombies. In fact, I may end up going back and picking up colors for the flesh for those zombies in the future.
  17. 8/28 - Worker Xeno Test #1 With one idea in mind, it was time to have a guinea xeno be put to the test. I started with my usual zenithal priming routine, and then applied a glaze of GW's The Fang, which is a blue/gray/purple color. I mixed some Vallejo White + Reaper Heraldic Red to make a pink for the tentacles and spores-things. For the face area, I layered up with some of The Fang + Reaper Ghost White. Finally, applying a wash of Agrax or Reikland Fleshshade to the face. I also took some Reikland to the arms, which is a brownish-Red. It honestly looks closer to the base skin tone in the artwork that way, so that might be a good way to color adjust a bit. Apparantly the tentacle vent thing is a hood and needs to be shaded red inside, and I will need to touch up the spikes with a bit more dark red to get them to stand out with some more contrast. Tone-wise, he looks a little more purple than the artwork. The artwork seems to have it be closer to brown-ish blue. I may still experiment with the colors to glaze to get a more accurate match. Or I might attempt to apply a wash over the top to mute out some of the purple and bring it closer to the blue/grey spectrum. I also need to allow more time for each glaze layer on the bottom to cure, as you can see, I was too aggressive and ended up simply lifting colors off, leaving some lighter spots. I will have to touch them up later.
  18. You are well ahead of me! Those contrast paints seem to really work well on those "nurgle" like models, for sure. The spoiler and tank units look really good with the bluish-gray and pink combination.
  19. 8/25-27 - All Your Bases Are Belong To Us So before I get neck-deep in aliens, I figured I would try to determine what base work to do. I'd like to do a bit more this time around and actually add some texture of some type. That being said, I also have a boat load of minis to paint, and I really don't want something that will take too much time. I.e. re-basing every single one. So I ran some tests to see what I could come up with on some spare bases (thank you Reaper!) to see what looked OK. The first option was the Catwalk grating stamp from Happy Seppuku. Thematically, this is great! I also was fortunate enough to have the 2018 ReaperCon Genesis stamp that would work for the Spoiler Abomination. From left-to-right, I tried PVA Glue + Coffee grounds, Kitty litter, and some scenic gravel. Not pictured below, I also tried some Vallejo Mud texture and GW Agrellan Earth. After a bit of paint and some dry brushing, none of them were really giving me the look I was wanting. After watching a video from Kujo Painting on Martian bases, the light bulb went off. I didn't have any sand, but someone posted in the comments about CA Glue (Superglue) and Baking Soda. After applying some quick under-shading with the airbrush, and some quick glazes, I achieved the effect I was after (bottom-right). The fine grit of the baking soda is really more along the texture size that dust and sand would be, making it perfect for this application. The added benefit is it is very quick, the CA glue cures almost instantly the moment the baking soda hits it, making it ready for applying primer and paint extremely rapidly.The cat walk grating looks pretty good too, all in all, but my concern is the amount of time to re-base the units. Even if I only did the heroes, that would still be 35+ bases. Not sure if I want to go that far or not, but it would help the hero minis stand out more.
  20. After a long wait, my Kickstarter pledge finally made it to my doorsteps. I know what you are thinking: "Didn't you just move?" Yes, yes I did. "You haven't finished Black Plague yet!" Also 100% correct - and at some point I will certainly finish it up, but the cult of the new calls! Now on one hand, this project will be a little easier as the aliens will predominately be toned with a single color with the attention being paid to the little details on them. It won't be as intensive of a slog compared to painting individual outfits of clothing. On the other, we have a bunch more specialty aliens and a slew more heroes to go through. Who knows if I will get around to painting them all! So this weekend's plan will be doing some prep work, priming and whatnot on a few of these. As always, comments and critiques are welcome - I am here to learn. My goal for larger projects such as these is Tabletop "Plus" (not quite display, but a little above a standard base/wash/highlight) for the hero and big units, and tabletop standard for the rank-and-file units (totally fine with base coats + washes + a few details here and there). Ultimately these are game pieces that will be played, so I don't want to agonize over anything getting messed up too badly.
  21. Pros: It's fairly inexpensive and better than craft paint. Cons: Coverage is pretty poor, and the mica size is a bit large. It tends to look a little more gritty/sparkly compared to say Vallejo's Air. For metallics, I have either owned/used: Army Painter, GW, Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Metal Color and Reaper. By far the best water-based acrylic I personally have used is Vallejo Metal Color, with the runner-up being Model Air. Metal Color is a bit expensive though. I haven't tried them, but high praise is given to Scale75 as well. Each paint brand has their strengths and weaknesses. In my opinion and experience, Reaper's weakest paints are/were their metallics, some of their brighter flesh tones (tend to chalk easily) and some of their HD paints (which were discontinued). Their advantages are being a US based company that makes their paint in house, a wide range of colors, dropper bottles with agitators, and a thinner consistency (added flow improver) that is more friendly to certain styles of painting, and certainly for beginners who often do not thin their paint at all.
  22. I think Doug's list seems really spot on. As others have said, I would pass on Reaper's metallic colors. I use Linen White pretty extensively. Burgundy Wine is another solid suggestion. Other Votes: Ghost White (cool white compared to the warm of Linen White) Candelight Yellow (pretty strong for a warm yellow) Liners (Brown, Blue, and Red) Clears (Red & Magenta especially, for pumping up vibrancy)
  23. Yep, and I would go fairly bright on the warm browns towards yellows: https://www.aclens.com/Most-Common-Eye-Color If you take a good look at the references there, you can see (ha!) the inner part of the iris has some fairly bright striations of color before diffusing into the darkest colors at the outer edge. Also note that the placement of the reflection (be it more on the iris or pupil) is determined the the angle of the light source. Hopefully that is useful.
  24. Skin tones are really starting to come together, solid work on the shading so far - you are doing great! Like you mentioned, your photos are overexposed and it is blowing out a bit; might need to diffuse/soften the lighting a bit more. It might be just me, but the eyes look...backwards? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pupil That is to say the reflection spot is where the pupil should be, the iris should contain the color and is darkest in both the inner and outer-most edges. Where is your primary light source coming from? Directly overhead, I presume?
  25. Didn't see a post on this one and it is in the final 24 hours. It is from Mythic Games, the originators of Mythic Battles series. This one is a bit less serious and more along the lines of Arcadia Quest/MOBA comic-fantasy theme. It is a skirmish game for 2 or 4 players. Miniatures are on 45mm bases and fall in the 32-45mm range. It appears that the bases are pre-sculpted. If MB:P is any indicator, the quality of the miniatures should be pretty solid as well. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1162110258/super-fantasy-brawl/
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