Jump to content

Cicciopiu

Members
  • Posts

    882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cicciopiu

  1. Finally mate!!! Good to read that you finally received your order!!!
  2. To kill the shine, just matte varnish your mini after applying inks. AK ultra matt varnish works quite good. Not every ink is glossy anyway, Green Stuff World make matte ink, also Vallejo are satin instead of glossy. You may mix ink with mediums, like glaze medium to make a very strong tinting glaze; You may make washes with them mixing them with water and flow improver (or a touch of dish-wash as @Glitterwolf already said) to avoid staining on flat surfaces; Also you may use inks heavily diluted as filters; or you may paint directly with them on a bright primer.
  3. As @Glitterwolf already said you may use green, but be aware that it will also de-saturate your red. For me the best is a very dark, warm, transparent purple (not Violet, don't know why but people tend to confuse this two colors). If you need a reference look for "Vallejo Nocturna Chalice Red". I don't have them so I can't compare, but probably Reaper Nightshade Purple or Burgundy Wine should work good.
  4. I have to say Pochi is absolutely right. People like me, who live in the middle of nowhere, gonna start penalized: it will take 3 weeks for any order from Reapermini to make it to me. Also UK hub is still overwhelmed with Bones 5 fulfilling. I know I can use any reaper mini that have a skull in it, but let's face it, the level of detail you can reach painting a bust is impossible to achive on a 32mm skull. 💀
  5. Yes, well, this KS have quite expensive rates IMHO, I mean, the all-in early bird is 180$ for 60 paints (15ml per bottle), so it's 3$ each bottle, that's is expensive to be a KS. Anyway looking at the video of Duncan using them, it seems that this paints aren't anything special; Covering is quite good, but this paints look like they are made for classic basic layering and wet blending techniques. I would love to see how they behave when used as glazes or how will react to heavy dilution. EDIT: Also, metals look quite bad, seems they are made using mica flakes instead of aluminium powder...
  6. Don't use rattle-can, not primers neither varnish, on bones: solvents and bones do not react well and it ends up tacky. If you do not like brush-on primers invest in a basic airbrush you gonna use just for priming. Here you'll find all you need to know about priming bones. Quoting @Wren : "Aerosol spray primers and some spray paints can have some issues with Bones (and with other plastics). The chemicals in some of these primers and paints do not react well with Bones. The main effect seems to be that the primer never completely cures, remaining tacky to the touch. Some will also fail to form a bond with the Bones material."
  7. Project page 72h Early Bird Well... new paints... Duncan Rhodes... 🤔
  8. Me, two weeks ago, Wave 1, around 450€ pledge.
  9. Once acrylic paints dries you can do almost everything you want on it, you may use oil paints, enamel paints, lacquers and so on; if you seal it with varnish is even better. The markers you wanna use are water based so, no problem. Anyway, as @Glitterwolf already wrote, try them out before.
  10. Thanks! I hope you gonna get you shipping notice soon!
  11. This thread is 14 years old... 😶
  12. Glazing using white is a nightmare! A glaze to to proper work have to be transparent, so the pigment itself should be transparent. White miniature paint are made with Titanium, and it's not transparent; zinc white would work better, but still, not every color may be made brighter using white: red and white= pink. Blue and white work well together but white will de-saturate the blues too fast. What you can do is to use a bright color to make a brighter tone and use it to glaze on top of the color you wanna make it brighter. Talking about red, you can mix a skin tone to it to make it brighter (I like sunny skin-tone) and use it to glaze on top of red (not directly with the skin-tone; skin tones usually contain white). Also, if you want to make blue brighter you can use blue-green or turquoise, mix it with your dark blue and, little by little, make it brighter and brighter. Using black in shadows is ok, but I use black only at the end. Before I fount it's better to use a dark tone. For reds I use a very dark Purple (imperial purple), for blues I use dark sea blue, or if you want it to be saturated, dark prussian blue. Then if you are looking for a very deep shadow you may use black. But not on everything! Using black on yellow is a very bad idea as it will turn green, better to use sienna first and burnt umber at the end. To make yellow brighter you may use ice yellow. I use white only on reflections: nothing is brighter than light, so white should be used only on eyes reflections, NMM brighter spots, bright skin reflections, water, glass, plastic reflections, and so on. I hope this helps 🙂 Edit: I've just read, after writing my bible, than you are using a LTP kit. So your palette is limited. If you do not have a skin-tone you can mix it using red, yellow and white; Turquoise is a mix of blue and green and white; Just use black for red shadows cause you probably do not have a transparent purple. You can make green brighter using yellow. And to answer about brown: add yellow and white to dark wood to make it brighter until your are satisfied.
  13. Hello forum family, long time not posting in the Show-off; reason is I've not painted anything in the past few months... What's better to restart than a bust? This is Lea, from Ouroboros Miniatures, I've pledged one of their past Kickstarter and she was one of the rewards. Now I have to write down a description (something I'm reaaaally good at... 😶). So let's see: first of all the palette of choice; would I go easy with cold colors? maybe greens and blues? naaah let's complicate my life with red and yellow 😄 Also let's try some texture on the skin, after 6 months without painting will be a piece of cake to dot dot dot... Also, I've completely forgot to sand the surface after cleaning the mold lines, resulting in a pretty rough finish... 🙁 Anyway this is the result: Hi-res Pictures So in the end: Am I happy of how she's came out? Yes, I'm always happy when I paint something regardless the final result 🙂 Is she perfect painted? Hell no! I think I've pushed too much the hood red reflection on the skin, red highlights on the sweatshirt are poor and shadows on the yellow sleeves are not deep enough, but I was afraid too overdo both. Anyway in the end I'm quite satisfied of it. Let me know what do you think about it, every C&C are more than welcome. Thanks for watching 🙂
  14. Ooook a little update for the fellow EU mates (if someone is interested in it 😛 ). Past yesterday I've received my package. Again Wave1, 450€ pledge (so in the middle). Miracle number 1: I had to pay... nothing 😶. Miracle number 2: Nothing is missing (thanks, @kit ) Miracle number 3: I've managed to dry-fit the big monsters/dragons etc. and everything fits like a glove. Sooo yes! I'm quite happy 😅
  15. Nice to read that! I'm still waiting; my package is "hold to ransom" by Spanish custom. It is two weeks atm, lets see when those people gonna do their job! Spanish Custom is a real bottle-neck...
  16. Just to let other EU customers know, I got my shipping notice today, my pledge is in the middle, around 450€. Now, living in the middle of the ocean and having to face two Customs, I do not expect my toys before the end of august 😅
  17. Same here. EU (I still think UK is part of Europe at least geographically) is a bit late, we have to be patient 😅
  18. I don't know I like the first pic more; Yes the iPhone one have crisp details but the camera one have more natural colors. The iPhone one looks over exposed and over saturated. It's your background light-grey dark-grey or black? I mean the background looks totally different in the two pictures. Also, if you look at the mini, which photo resemble more the real colors on it?
  19. Me and my wife got our first jab yesterday, both Pfizer; no side effect so far but she got sore arm.
  20. You may keep hydro-alcoholic gel on your desk and just use it now and then; it is almost impossible to avoid touching your face cause is something we do distractedly As a tattoo artist I'm so used in washing my hands so often that I forgot to mention it!
×
×
  • Create New...