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MoebiusStrip

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  1. MoebiusStrip

    Bones mini turning sticky after a while

    Yeah works fine, the dragon I did was also unprimed just undercoated. Works well as long as you don't thin your paints too much.
  2. Yes I had, see thread about it here. That said I never had problems with paint on varnishes (I use liquitex). So if you are in possession of an airbrush that might be an option.
  3. MoebiusStrip

    Bones mini turning sticky after a while

    Roughly 5-7 days after first application update: Dupli-Color Matte Spraytacky TACKY (B4, G and M), so this was my original culprit. Acetone NOT tacky (B4, G and M), this as part of the propellant is not the reason for tackyness. Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish (28.531) NOT tacky (B4, G and M) Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish MINIMAL tackyness (B4 and M) , seems to be ever so slightly tacky but barely noticable. I would not have noticed had I not other samples to compare. G is NOT tacky at all. So I would say even a single coat of paint would prevent this. Not optimal but very useable. Liquitex Professional Matt Varnish SOME tackyness ( B4, G and M), more than army painter but less than Dupli-Color. Interestingly around here the vallejo is also the cheapest version. Followed by the army painter one. So more expensive seems to mean more tackyness :) The old and new (don't know if there really is a difference) bones material seems to behave exactly the same when it comes to sprays so far. Colors (R, V and AP) showed no furhter ill effects for any spray.
  4. MoebiusStrip

    Bones mini turning sticky after a while

    Yeah seems to be overall pretty unpredictable. I had very little problems so far with hard plastics from GW, Mantic, Northstar etc. Bones is a notably different material though, thus the tests. Anyway spray update: Sprayed all, used a napkin to dab on the acetone. First observations: 1) The liquitex spray has a very much wider dispersion and needed a bit more of a shakeup, the agitator ball seemed a bit lighter than the others. 2) The acetone disolved the paint (not super surprising there): The V green basically disintegrated the moment the napkin came near, the AP and R needed a bit of rubbing to get them going. R seemed to be a bit more resilient than AP but that might be only apparent since the yellow is a much harder to see color (at least compared to the dark green and red). The gesso was also disolved, but also took some rubbing. Overall the take away is that model color needs a protective coat after painting. Reaper are, IIRC, formulated to be more resilient and AP seems to be the same in this regard.
  5. Funny, quite similar changes. The per monster doubling test is a good idea I think, but I would still up the change for more rangers a bit. The skill change is a bit strange but I guess with more rangers this would get a lot easier. What gets me is stuff like pick lock 10 or strength 15 to open doors. That is such a huge difference that a companion with strength+3 still would use pick lock. That kind of always bothered me a bit. But the -2 don't really fix that.
  6. In my experience it is primarily balanced around solo play. More ranges make it a lot easier since ranger are a lot better than regular dudes, and with 4 ranger all heroes act before the monsters, which usually means the closest monsters get dispatched before they can do damage. Furhter, missions leading up to the last mission often have monsters with disease which are not really dangerous themselves but make the last mission much more dangerous. These monster often don't take much of a punishment and so can't touch the heroes due to the above point. Thirdly, due to the nature of the rolls, flat distribution on the d20, the whole thing is rather swingy and often a lowly creature can take out a companion in close combat if it gets there. I mostly play two player games and we restricted each ranger to pull up one companion in initiative, won't do much for 4 ranger though. A possible (and simple) fix is this: if monsters appear, roll a d6, if it is less than the number of rangers double the number of monsters. This should make it easier for them to get into range. Note that I have not tried this so maybe needs tweaking.
  7. MoebiusStrip

    How do you paint the transparent pieces

    Thanks for that. Seems to loose a lot of transparency without turning fully opaque. Thanks those look fantastic, and the tamiya stuff seems to work extremely well. How is it for tinting normal colors? Also have any of you tried the other 'clears', i.e. vallejo, reaper etc.?
  8. MoebiusStrip

    How do you paint the transparent pieces

    Thanks that's useful so far, except that I don't have inks. How do washes or thinned paints work? Are they too opaque?
  9. MoebiusStrip

    Bones mini turning sticky after a while

    So Bones4 stuff arrived, very nice boxes and sprues. I have to say that the filler miniatures that hold the sprues and stuff the boxes are also super nice . Anyway I assembled bits of the box and sprue to get test patches. I used the kobold and goblin sprues (cut in half), and since they seemed to be a bit stiffer than the old white sprues I used those as well, from mouselings. I wanted to see if gesso would prevent stickiness or not (the dragon was one of the few minis I did not prime). Since there was space I also added paint from different manufacturers to see if that does anything (don't suspect it will, but you never know). So: B4 ... bones 4 sprue from kobold set and goblin set G ... Same sprue as B4 (the sprue was cut in half) primed with liquitex black gesso. M ... Part of an older mouseling sprue R ... Reaper color (09459 Ogre Skin) V ... Vallejo color (72.147 Game Extra Opaque Heavy BlackGreen) AP ... Army Painter color (WP1142 Chaotic Red) What I will use to test: Dupli-Color Matte Spray, the original culprit, see above posts. Acetone (I'll brush that on, included due to Pegazus suspicion, I'll try a super light brushing on to simulated low amounts from spray) Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish (28.531) Army Painter Anti Shine Matt Varnish Liquitex Professional Matt Varnish The liquitex one is still on it's way, when its here I'll spray all and then wait and see. Update on the dragon: The liquitex brush on matt varnish so far has kept the dragon non-sticky.
  10. I'm curious how to paint the transparent plastic pieces, like those in the bones4 core set or the spell effect minis. I have never painted a transparent mini so no idea how the transparency can be leveraged properly. Any tips? Or do you just paint it like a regular mini and ignore the transparency?
  11. Just checked it's a 2" reaper Rpg base. Also pic with scale and Sir Forscale for scale.
  12. I agree It should, the base in the picture is 2" iirc (if not then 40mm). So overall the dragon would be ok for a youg dragon maybe, too large for a hatchling to small for an adult one.
  13. MoebiusStrip

    Reapermini New Site Layout

    https://ks.reapermini.com/cav3 EU VAT calculataion seems to be broken, not sure if this has anything to do with the site change though.
  14. MoebiusStrip

    Shiny anti-matte

    Well at least you had a good workout then :) Sadly no idea what else could have gone wrong except the distance.
  15. MoebiusStrip

    Shiny anti-matte

    Temperatur and humidity should not matter much if you prep your spray properly. It should be heated up (warm not hot), which does not matter when it's warm outside, and the spray must be well shaken. The distance should be choosen depending on the heat and temperature because if it's hot the spray may dry before it reaches the model. What I suspect is that you did not shake the spray sufficiently, the matteness comes from material deposists in the spray, if the material is separated from the rest you essentially have a gloss spray. You might also spray from too far away, iirc army painter recommends no more than 20cm. Yes every matte varnish should work (gloss over matte would also work should you ever want to do that).
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