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Everything posted by MoebiusStrip

  1. My main question is, will it be EU friendly this time round?
  2. I grabbed a random mini and snapped some images. The detail is quite good overall.
  3. Thanks. Yeah, wash in alcohol to get color to stick properly. Then a blue wash, this was a bit fiddly as the plastic was still a bit hydrophobic, but a second selective wash fixed that. Then a slight drybrush with either pure white or a slight off white blueish color (in this cast most likely snowdrift white from reaper). Then a gloss varnish. I should also clarify that the pastic is not soft, as in bendy but soft as in plastic cement does not work. It's actuall pretty stiff (similar to the bones black stuff).
  4. They don't need assembly, overall good quality for plastic minis. They are soft plastic though and not hard plastic, as such the detail is not as crisp, there are the usual mold lines etc. For the most part I'm happy with the models, some sculpts are broccoli, but most are acceptable to good I would say. In comparison to reaper, better than old soft bones but worse than bones black. I should have some pics a round from painted minis. Not sure if that does them any favour though, I tried some stuff on them and mostly did a rather speedy job. OK here are some pics, the see through are mostly not painted, some with gloss some with paint on the underside of the base to give a fading color effect. As you can see from the fur here, the detail is quite ok overall. This is a scult that just sucks, the torso leg join looks weird no matter how you look at it, and the mace is strangely bent My photography also does not help the look of the minis -.- Moldlines are quite visible here, and with the soft plastic they are a broccoli to clean (which is why I didn't :)
  5. Material seems ok didn't drop them yet. I had some breakage but not overly much, and mostly where the material is thin (toches held by a halfling are less than a milimeter across). At least from the renders on the new knights it seems they are aware of this, the lances look chunky enough to stay on. Casting is a bit hit and miss, mostly it's flash and bubbles. The flash so far was easy to clean away but sometimes some small lines need to be scrapped which is annoying with resin (toxicity and such). The bubbles are relatively frequent but can for the most part be easily fixed, just be aware that there can be some. Sometimes they are in unfortunate places of high detail. The first kickstarter I backed they replaced egregious stuff without complaint and super fast, did not get the replacement stuff for the second kickstarter yet but that is likely to be due to that little customs kerfuffle between UK and EU. The sculpts are nicely detailed without being to full of greeblies. After a good wash they paint up nicely (don't let my paintjob fool you ;). I had mostly the small minis though and less monsters or giants and stuff so no idea about those and fitting them together. Sizewise they are a tad on the small side but they fit fine with regular '28mm' figs. /edit: Square bases are from TT, rounds from reaper (Sir Forscale and a pathfinder halfling bard).
  6. I have to say I'm considering an airbrush for a while now, but my main unknown is how much of a mess does it make. Usually people recommend at least a mask, but also a spray booth with sucks air outside etc. How much of a mess does airbrushing really make, is a box enough to catch overspray or is it even needed?
  7. Similar here, I used brush on gloss then matt varnish (both liquitex, but can't imagin brands haveing much of a difference here) to take of the stickyness, seems to work so far. For washing I find that a dip and swishing around in isopropyl alcohol or acid (vinegar) does a lot more that soap and a brush, but both will likely do even more. Have never tried to let them sit in isoproyl alchocol for an extended period of time. For priming, brush on primer, gesso or airbush primer seems to work fine. So does (after a proper wash) painting with undiluted (or nearly undiluted) arcylic paint. It can be that, due to the hydrophobic natuer of the bones material, the paint/primer/gesso can draw away from some parts. A second attempt to paint those spots worked in all cases, the better washed the mini is the less this happens of course, but this can never be totally excluded.
  8. Thanks, very informative. Wow talk about ringing endorsement.
  9. Yeah I skipped those where I could see from the swatches which off-whites they were.
  10. There are the following whites in the reaper line. From the swatches they all look ... white. Whats the difference between the colors? Dragon White 09439 Solid White 09478 Pure White 09039 Pearl White 09100 Unicorn White 89547 Pure White appears in a triad which makes me think this is truly pure white. Are some of the others also pure or are they off-color and in which direction? I really can't tell from the swatches.
  11. Just to repeat a frequent question from the kickstarter comments here for better visibility. What is the status and or plan for EU shipping? It seems very likely to the way of a no-deal Brexit and the pledge manager closes at December first. So this is quite an important bit of information for EU backers overall.
  12. Because the ratio is the scale, a height in mm is just a random number really. Then only way to convert the mm to scale would be to have an idea what they are measuring, it's usually feet to eye. Assuming an average height of 1.75m and a head-height to total height ratio of 1/7.5 (and eyes being halfway up the head) we would have a eye-height of 1.633m (1.75/7.5*7), for a scale of 1/58.33 . Which if you measure from toes to head would be roughly 30mm. Ailene being 34mm to the top includes hair and a cowl, and she might be taler (we are talking averages here with a body height of 1.75m and h2b of 1/7.5). So that is not totally out of the 28mm 'heroic' scale. So much for scale. In my experience the recent bones figures have grown a lot. Older, especially the metal figures seem to be more in line of 25mm (feet to eye). The newer releases contain the M and B cubes which are 1/4" in height (which is not superusable but it gives an impression). The older figures for the most part are photographed with Bryangles (the things poking into the picture, usually on the right) with the triangles being at 1/2" and 1" height. And I seem to recall that @Reaper_Jon mentioned something about properly measuring the figures, ongoing effort and such, not sure what became of that. In any case, may be useful: Scale H2E H2H Comment 1/48 34.0mm 36.5mm O Scale 1/51 32.0mm 34.3mm 32mm 1/58 28.0mm 30.0mm 28mm 1/65 25.0mm 26.8mm 25mm 1/72 22.7mm 24.3mm Plastic Historicals are often this size 1/81 20.0mm 21.4mm 20mm 1/87 18.8mm 20.1mm HO Scale 1/90 18.0mm 19.3mm 18mm 1/108 15.0mm 16.1mm 15mm 1/144 11.3mm 12.2mm Often Aircraft plastic kits 1/160 10.2mm 10.9mm N Scale 1/163 10.0mm 10.7mm 10mm 1/272 6.0mm 6.4mm 6mm H2E Height from toe to eyes H2H Height from toe to top of head
  13. Triads are a neat shortcut so you dont't have to mix shadow and highlight colors yourself. Don't stress about it. Learn to mix paint, that is a useful skill all by itself. Shadows can usually be made by adding the opposing color or simply darken them with black. For highlights add white, for some colors like, red where adding white pushes it into pink, you might want to consider a brighter color you have which is similar in hue, add yellow to red for hightlights for example. I think some were folded back into the base line but not all of them? It's a bit of a mess but does not change much. Can't exactly rember what was in the video, but I think thinning and coverage were points? In my experience paints are almost never of the same consistency (although I have to admit reaper (per line) and vallejo come close). When thinning don't learn ratios learn how the end product should look like, i.e., final consistency of the paint. Experiment a bit, if you thin too much just add more paint (or start again). If you thin too little, well bones paints are not that thick to begin with so you should still be fine. Coverage is different depending on purity of color and pigmentation. Yellows and reds tend to cover poorly, mix a bit of white or black in to add opacity. This will of course change the color a bit so don't overdo it to begin with and just put on a second coat. Also building bright colors which are translucent over black is a recipe for paint, underpaint them with white first. You'll quickly see which colors need this treatment when you painted a bit. If they are liquid they are find, they will get a crumbly texture when the became too cold. It should be quite apparent. Mostly the same. Nolzurs are supposed to be preprimed, but never painted one I think. But basically the steps should alwasys be: 1. Wash mini (give em a bath in warm soapy water, and have a quick light scrub with an old toothbrush). Some minis have a mold release agent on them, or natural grease from handling them etc. which might prevent paint from sticking properly. Does not take long and better safe than sorry. 2. Prime the mini. This is an undercoat which is supposed to cling well to the underground and has a texture to which paint adheres well. This can also influence some forms of painting (look up: painting with washes or contrast, zenithal highlighting, value maps). Most bones colors do this pretty well, some better than others (brown liner seems to work really well). However, paints are more expensive then regular primers, so maybe get a bollte of vallejo primer (or just use the bones colors for a base coat, that should work fine). 3. Paint the mini in your preferred way. 4. Protect the mini if necessary, e.g. if it is a playing piece, by applying varnish. Varnish is basically a protective coat that can be glossy, stain or matte. It will change the color and sheen of the underlying colors. Not really necessary for for display pieces, but good idea for pieces which might get knocked around. IIRC they changed the color at some point because the white material was ever so slightly translucent and could potentially affect the appearance of paint (negligible in practice). Also seeing details in the white was hard ;) The can be smushed together and bent, nothing abnormal. If metal, bend it back carefully, the metal is pliable so should not snap. If the material is bones or other formes of soft plastic put it into very hot, but not boiling water. You will see the bones material soften, often it will return to it's original form but you can also shape it while it is maleable, then let it cool and or put it in cold water. After that it should retain it's form. Watercup, some newspaper to protect the desk. A bit of a neutral soap for cleaning brushes might be useful. Also a paint handle, most use a cork or old pill bottle or other small container with poster putty to adhere the mini. Citadel makes paint handles that are supposed to be good (don't have one). Also superglue as some miniatures have to be assembled and maybe greenstuff or miliput to hide gaps on those (mostly for larger minis). Appart from superflue I would not worry too much for now but if interested search for "gap filling" and "pinning". Yes there are some, hope linking is allowed: https://www.reapermini.com/dungeondwellers https://allbonesabout.blogspot.com http://nstarmagazine.com
  14. They are bloody adorable
  15. I created a single scenario mission for low level rangers based on the "The Dungeon" books from Loke Battlemats. Since here are some rosd players and backers of that kickstarter I thought I'd share it. No clue how large the overlap is. Anyhow, C&C welcome, reports of how it went also. I played it with two players (GF and I). We had a close, but successful, mission with level 0 and level 1 rangers. I would say tough adventure, and mid level ranger around level 5 might also be fine. ROSD-Into-the-dungeon.pdf
  16. When is the start date for the monthly mini? US stores start at the 1st with a new patch of minis. UK does not, at least currently there is still the January promo going. I assume this is due to shipping and such. Is there a more of less fixed date or is it just 'when the stuff is here'?
  17. The UK store (ordering from EU) seems to still have the january freebies up. But only two figures, I guess the rest is out of stock. Any plan when it will switch over to the February minis?
  18. I miss the inspiration gallery for color scheme inspirations :( Anyway I painted this mini and wanted to try some blending. Turns out my color choice fit his name: Bloodcrest. Holymoly the photos really show the mold lines. I guess I should be less lazy in the future.
  19. I actually also used the link button, I managed to broccoli it up all by myself
  20. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/550360615/ratmen-28mm-metal-miniatures-from-rpe
  21. The two minis from the bones IV core set just look like they want to battle, so I made them ;) Griffin, Wyvern ... Bones IV core set Hiding Halfling ... TTCombat Hill ... XPS
  22. I would like a new line called bone grafting, containing conversion helper items. Sprue with hats, cowboy hats, wizard hats, silly hats. Weapon sprues, demon and angel wings (basically the metal stuff but in bones). Terrain crafting helper stuff, doors, windows (the topers from bones 4) etc. might group that together with other terrain type stuff.
  23. I assume you are layering not blending. If you are blending: wet, seems like the paint dries to fast, flow improver might indeed be the answer, or not water it down so much. If you are feathering: If you use a strongly watered down paint and add more water to feather the paint dispersion might break and create splotches, thin you paint less to begin with. Assuming layering from here on. You put on too much paint, if you have a hard time controlling this then there is too much paint in the brush. This will also take longer to dry and layering will be slow. To prevent that wipe of the excess paint on something. If you use a paper towel dampen it, if it is dry it will suck out too much paint (likely) or only touch it litely. When you do this you will likely find that you apply less paint in a single layer and that you do not have to thin it so much, see next point. Water is fine. If the layer covers too much .. too little water. If you need 20 layers ... too much water. Try the above on a newspaper and see how it covers the type, also let it dry, the opacity will increase when it dries. Flow improver is not need here at all, if you find that you do not like the consistency of watered down paint you can thin it with medium. Personal preference really, you can also go from midtone and layer down and up. I like to start dark and layer up, this way I have the easier accessible high parts of the mini to paint.
  24. The Monthly Assortment - November 2019 link on the new release page seems to be broken. Also do I just miss it all the time or are the monthly assortments not availabale in europe (they always show as out of stock)?
  25. I don't know how top heavy it is, but a couple of washers are cheap enough to just do it if you feel the need. Also if you use it in wargames and have hills with a slight incline I would suggest you add the weights. I know from the great worm that if the base is not wide enough a relatively small tilt angle is enough to have it topple over, but the center of mass on the goremaw seems a lot lower. Don't know the brand but CA tends to be brittle. So if you have few contact points (missmatching plug and receptacle) and a brittle glue breakage is likely. I would simply use greenstuff to fill and glue the parts together, you might want to roughen the involved surfaces a bit to create a better bond.
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