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Everything posted by MoebiusStrip

  1. Just to repeat a frequent question from the kickstarter comments here for better visibility. What is the status and or plan for EU shipping? It seems very likely to the way of a no-deal Brexit and the pledge manager closes at December first. So this is quite an important bit of information for EU backers overall.
  2. Because the ratio is the scale, a height in mm is just a random number really. Then only way to convert the mm to scale would be to have an idea what they are measuring, it's usually feet to eye. Assuming an average height of 1.75m and a head-height to total height ratio of 1/7.5 (and eyes being halfway up the head) we would have a eye-height of 1.633m (1.75/7.5*7), for a scale of 1/58.33 . Which if you measure from toes to head would be roughly 30mm. Ailene being 34mm to the top includes hair and a cowl, and she might be taler (we are talking averages here with a body height of 1.75m and h2b of 1/7.5). So that is not totally out of the 28mm 'heroic' scale. So much for scale. In my experience the recent bones figures have grown a lot. Older, especially the metal figures seem to be more in line of 25mm (feet to eye). The newer releases contain the M and B cubes which are 1/4" in height (which is not superusable but it gives an impression). The older figures for the most part are photographed with Bryangles (the things poking into the picture, usually on the right) with the triangles being at 1/2" and 1" height. And I seem to recall that @Reaper_Jon mentioned something about properly measuring the figures, ongoing effort and such, not sure what became of that. In any case, may be useful: Scale H2E H2H Comment 1/48 34.0mm 36.5mm O Scale 1/51 32.0mm 34.3mm 32mm 1/58 28.0mm 30.0mm 28mm 1/65 25.0mm 26.8mm 25mm 1/72 22.7mm 24.3mm Plastic Historicals are often this size 1/81 20.0mm 21.4mm 20mm 1/87 18.8mm 20.1mm HO Scale 1/90 18.0mm 19.3mm 18mm 1/108 15.0mm 16.1mm 15mm 1/144 11.3mm 12.2mm Often Aircraft plastic kits 1/160 10.2mm 10.9mm N Scale 1/163 10.0mm 10.7mm 10mm 1/272 6.0mm 6.4mm 6mm H2E Height from toe to eyes H2H Height from toe to top of head
  3. Triads are a neat shortcut so you dont't have to mix shadow and highlight colors yourself. Don't stress about it. Learn to mix paint, that is a useful skill all by itself. Shadows can usually be made by adding the opposing color or simply darken them with black. For highlights add white, for some colors like, red where adding white pushes it into pink, you might want to consider a brighter color you have which is similar in hue, add yellow to red for hightlights for example. I think some were folded back into the base line but not all of them? It's a bit of a mess but does not change much. Can't exactly rember what was in the video, but I think thinning and coverage were points? In my experience paints are almost never of the same consistency (although I have to admit reaper (per line) and vallejo come close). When thinning don't learn ratios learn how the end product should look like, i.e., final consistency of the paint. Experiment a bit, if you thin too much just add more paint (or start again). If you thin too little, well bones paints are not that thick to begin with so you should still be fine. Coverage is different depending on purity of color and pigmentation. Yellows and reds tend to cover poorly, mix a bit of white or black in to add opacity. This will of course change the color a bit so don't overdo it to begin with and just put on a second coat. Also building bright colors which are translucent over black is a recipe for paint, underpaint them with white first. You'll quickly see which colors need this treatment when you painted a bit. If they are liquid they are find, they will get a crumbly texture when the became too cold. It should be quite apparent. Mostly the same. Nolzurs are supposed to be preprimed, but never painted one I think. But basically the steps should alwasys be: 1. Wash mini (give em a bath in warm soapy water, and have a quick light scrub with an old toothbrush). Some minis have a mold release agent on them, or natural grease from handling them etc. which might prevent paint from sticking properly. Does not take long and better safe than sorry. 2. Prime the mini. This is an undercoat which is supposed to cling well to the underground and has a texture to which paint adheres well. This can also influence some forms of painting (look up: painting with washes or contrast, zenithal highlighting, value maps). Most bones colors do this pretty well, some better than others (brown liner seems to work really well). However, paints are more expensive then regular primers, so maybe get a bollte of vallejo primer (or just use the bones colors for a base coat, that should work fine). 3. Paint the mini in your preferred way. 4. Protect the mini if necessary, e.g. if it is a playing piece, by applying varnish. Varnish is basically a protective coat that can be glossy, stain or matte. It will change the color and sheen of the underlying colors. Not really necessary for for display pieces, but good idea for pieces which might get knocked around. IIRC they changed the color at some point because the white material was ever so slightly translucent and could potentially affect the appearance of paint (negligible in practice). Also seeing details in the white was hard ;) The can be smushed together and bent, nothing abnormal. If metal, bend it back carefully, the metal is pliable so should not snap. If the material is bones or other formes of soft plastic put it into very hot, but not boiling water. You will see the bones material soften, often it will return to it's original form but you can also shape it while it is maleable, then let it cool and or put it in cold water. After that it should retain it's form. Watercup, some newspaper to protect the desk. A bit of a neutral soap for cleaning brushes might be useful. Also a paint handle, most use a cork or old pill bottle or other small container with poster putty to adhere the mini. Citadel makes paint handles that are supposed to be good (don't have one). Also superglue as some miniatures have to be assembled and maybe greenstuff or miliput to hide gaps on those (mostly for larger minis). Appart from superflue I would not worry too much for now but if interested search for "gap filling" and "pinning". Yes there are some, hope linking is allowed: https://www.reapermini.com/dungeondwellers https://allbonesabout.blogspot.com http://nstarmagazine.com
  4. They are bloody adorable
  5. I created a single scenario mission for low level rangers based on the "The Dungeon" books from Loke Battlemats. Since here are some rosd players and backers of that kickstarter I thought I'd share it. No clue how large the overlap is. Anyhow, C&C welcome, reports of how it went also. I played it with two players (GF and I). We had a close, but successful, mission with level 0 and level 1 rangers. I would say tough adventure, and mid level ranger around level 5 might also be fine. ROSD-Into-the-dungeon.pdf
  6. When is the start date for the monthly mini? US stores start at the 1st with a new patch of minis. UK does not, at least currently there is still the January promo going. I assume this is due to shipping and such. Is there a more of less fixed date or is it just 'when the stuff is here'?
  7. The UK store (ordering from EU) seems to still have the january freebies up. But only two figures, I guess the rest is out of stock. Any plan when it will switch over to the February minis?
  8. I miss the inspiration gallery for color scheme inspirations :( Anyway I painted this mini and wanted to try some blending. Turns out my color choice fit his name: Bloodcrest. Holymoly the photos really show the mold lines. I guess I should be less lazy in the future.
  9. I actually also used the link button, I managed to broccoli it up all by myself
  10. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/550360615/ratmen-28mm-metal-miniatures-from-rpe
  11. The two minis from the bones IV core set just look like they want to battle, so I made them ;) Griffin, Wyvern ... Bones IV core set Hiding Halfling ... TTCombat Hill ... XPS
  12. I would like a new line called bone grafting, containing conversion helper items. Sprue with hats, cowboy hats, wizard hats, silly hats. Weapon sprues, demon and angel wings (basically the metal stuff but in bones). Terrain crafting helper stuff, doors, windows (the topers from bones 4) etc. might group that together with other terrain type stuff.
  13. I assume you are layering not blending. If you are blending: wet, seems like the paint dries to fast, flow improver might indeed be the answer, or not water it down so much. If you are feathering: If you use a strongly watered down paint and add more water to feather the paint dispersion might break and create splotches, thin you paint less to begin with. Assuming layering from here on. You put on too much paint, if you have a hard time controlling this then there is too much paint in the brush. This will also take longer to dry and layering will be slow. To prevent that wipe of the excess paint on something. If you use a paper towel dampen it, if it is dry it will suck out too much paint (likely) or only touch it litely. When you do this you will likely find that you apply less paint in a single layer and that you do not have to thin it so much, see next point. Water is fine. If the layer covers too much .. too little water. If you need 20 layers ... too much water. Try the above on a newspaper and see how it covers the type, also let it dry, the opacity will increase when it dries. Flow improver is not need here at all, if you find that you do not like the consistency of watered down paint you can thin it with medium. Personal preference really, you can also go from midtone and layer down and up. I like to start dark and layer up, this way I have the easier accessible high parts of the mini to paint.
  14. The Monthly Assortment - November 2019 link on the new release page seems to be broken. Also do I just miss it all the time or are the monthly assortments not availabale in europe (they always show as out of stock)?
  15. I don't know how top heavy it is, but a couple of washers are cheap enough to just do it if you feel the need. Also if you use it in wargames and have hills with a slight incline I would suggest you add the weights. I know from the great worm that if the base is not wide enough a relatively small tilt angle is enough to have it topple over, but the center of mass on the goremaw seems a lot lower. Don't know the brand but CA tends to be brittle. So if you have few contact points (missmatching plug and receptacle) and a brittle glue breakage is likely. I would simply use greenstuff to fill and glue the parts together, you might want to roughen the involved surfaces a bit to create a better bond.
  16. Never tried that (I don't have that kind of patience). But given that the bend likely happened due to the part being pressed against the packing, which is in essence that same thing as the unbending with a dowel, I don't see why it would not work. That saids, everyone recommends the hot water treatment, or alternatively the hot air treatment with a hair dryer, and it works quite well. It is also fast and can be done while cleaning the mini. Also the water does not have to boil but it has to be hot enough to burn your hands so use tongs.
  17. Interesting, I embraced the sagging wings and left them in the down position. Also makes it easier to store, height wise. I think no mater what you do the tail needs to be pinned or Gauth will bend forward like he is grazing. The tail pin was sufficient to prevent major forward bending, the knee brace is not required I think. The wings down gives him a kind of swooping in look, see image. What I did, however, was to raise the legs with two sheets of cork tiling (approximative total of 1cm), so the tail pin, via the raised leg levers, raises the head up a bit more.
  18. Reaper no they only have small bottles. (Have not used their primers) Vallejo has huge bottles and spray cans. (Have not used their primers) Army painter small bottles but spray cans. Ak interactive has larger bottles (100ml). (Have not used their primers) Plastic soldier company has sprays. (Have not used their primers) Tamiya has larger bottles (40ml iirc) and sprays. (Have not used their primers) Stynylrez (This is from Badger afaik) has larger bottles. (Have not used their primers) Liquitex Gesso has larger bottles. Gesso is what I use. Works fine for me, maybe if you are a better painter than me it covers too much detail? Since it retracts quite a lot when drying it's easy to slober on with a brush (just don't slober too much :). Otherwise bones I often just prime with undiluted reaper color, but army painter and vallejo heavy game color or vallejo model color also works fine for this. If this generates a less strong bond with the surface it has not yet resulted in flaking, although I end with a varnish. From 1/72 painting I know that a lot of people prime with tinted (or not) PVA. super-hobby has a nl site and ships pretty much too all of europe, but If you do a search there should be many. This comes up so often for airbrush that there must be an ample number of suppliers for the stuff. Same with gesso, just blow at it gently from above should pop them. Does that actually help? I always assumed I create bubbles because if use a large-hiney brush and just capture some air in the process. But regular paint should not reduce surface tension to prevent that (or let the bubbles escape).
  19. Same here, large parts of of the updates do not deal with the fact that they are super late but advertise other stuff from them and then they start a new terrain kickstarter while the old one is still struggling to fulfill. Leaves a bad taste.
  20. That sounds incredible sensible! @Bloodhowl: Wow that sounds extreme, also extremly thourough :)
  21. I'll chime in with a few thoughts, I backed their halfling kickstarter, some notes on topics I read from posts here: Sculpts are nice, not overdone but different poses etc. One point which I could complain about is that some details are very small, specifically toch handles and similar stuff, leading to easy breakage. Resin is not the best I have seen but servicable, there are bubbles, which are more noticeable on larger scuplts (due to larger surface). Not optimal but nothing superbad so far. Delivery was fast. With Halflings some of the 3d renders were never shown, they seem to have the translation from 2d to 3d down though. Replacement for lost or missing parts was simple and fast. Regarding overstretch and numbers of figures, look at the pledge, mostly the numbers are bolstered by halflings (and those burster things). They are small, so at least materialwise it should not be much of a problem (no idea about the cost of casting).
  22. Thanks for the tip, sounds like it is for airbrush only. Otherwise I tried gesso and reaper paint straight from the bottle. Both seem to work but need some touching up after the first once-over. It seems to me that I miss some of the harder to reach corners with the scrubbing. This is likely what made the spray paint flake off, patches of weak adherence without a second cover. Anyone got any tips of how to clean these hard to reach spots? Also on how not to break every implement they carry, so far I broke 3 of 3. Those CAD details come out almost too thin in the casts.
  23. Thanks I'll try a smaller piece without primer and maybe I'll try one with gesso and see if that works better.
  24. Cheers, Basically I had primer flake of from a resin mini I painted. Are there any tips to properly clean/prep resin? I gave it the usual bubble bath, 5-10min soak + toothbrush scrubbing. Spray primed, and during painting I noticed some parts where the primer chipped off. The mini is from TTCombat, prior resin experience was with Mantics cast where this did not happen. Ohterwise I only know this problem from 1/72 zvezda plastic (in which case a scrubbing with white spirits help). Unsure about resin though, is there something similar to give a bit more tooth to the surface. The TTCombat resin minis are visibly more shiny than the mantic stuff.
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