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Rignes

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Everything posted by Rignes

  1. Yeah, only one or two squirts. No more. And it seems OK.
  2. When I fill my wet palette I put in one or two squirts of amonia based glass cleaner on the bottom. Then put the sponge in and fill it with water. I also keep a 6" section of 16 gauge copper wire left over from house wiring to the side of the sponge. Seems to work well for me.
  3. That's super interesting. I've never even heard of that type of medium before. Thanks for sharing.
  4. FDM. I know there are layer lines. I don't care about them though. Just looking for suggestions on the paint job. This is more of an experimental side project than a trying to make I look it's best project.
  5. So, this is the first thing I've 3D printed and decided to paint. I didn't clean them up much so you can see the layer lines but I'm lazy and I figured they are ancient statues and aren't supposed to be smooth. 🙂 My idea is to weather the mountain part while leaving the statue itself mostly clean so it's visually different. I used pigments (for the first time actually) and they stand out. I was trying to get other greens and browns in there but they really don't stand out. I used Burnt Umber and Sepia inks along with some Reaper Troll Hide for this. FIrst, do you think it's necesssary to make them more pronounced based on the picture? I don't wnat to over due the colors and I kind of like the mostly brown look. Would it benefit, in your opinions, from more variety or will adding aditional colors make it to busy? I have other questions I may ask but lets start with this one. 🙂 Thanks.
  6. This processes is almost exactly what I do. I use Masters brush soap. After cleaning I give it a rinse, then re-apply some more soap from a clean part of the puck and then shape it and let it try. Masters is also a conditioner and will dry to hold it in shape as well to sort of train the hairs.
  7. I've never bought brushes from Cheap Joes, but they have Kolinsky Sable on their website and I know others here have spoken highly of Cheap Joes in general. Maybe others here can comment with more certainty.
  8. Thanks everyone! He was a fun one to paint.
  9. That sound close to what I was mulling over in my mind. This project is a fair way off, want to finish Zombicide and the expansions I have first. I was toying with the idea of dry brushing a darker steel metallic on the high points and then glaze it over with something blue/black in order to get a little bit of that shimmering insect carapace sort of look. Not sure how well that would work out in practice, but just one of the ideas bouncing around the inside of my skull. All of this is all in the speculation phase right now. I'll have to dig out a test model and do some experimenting once I get closer.
  10. That sounds like a great idea. One of the games I have coming up to paint is Nemesis. It's heavily influenced by the Alien movies and the core game intruders borrow heavily from that look. I've attached a picture of the kind of look I want to achieve. And your idea sounds like it might do just that. I'll have to experiment with it. Thanks..
  11. So, I'm intrigued by Nightmare Black. I love the blue undertone it has but am wondering how I can put it to use? I don't want to just use it as just a very dark blue black. How are you all using it?
  12. Plus if you have Gloss under Matt you can see more easily if you need to reapply. If you play with a certain model alot and start to see glossy spots you know the matt is wearing off and can toss another coat on.
  13. This may work. I had an issue with a faulty tub of Army Painter Quickshade (on a non-reaper plastic model) were it never dried. After several day sit was still tacky. Army painter suggested I spray it with a matt varnish, they recommended I use their Anti-Shine rattle can, but I imagine any matt varnish would have done the job. It fixed it and saved me from having to repaint seven figures.
  14. This is a topic that will get you many differing answers. For my part I like to use a gloss first. Any brand is fine as far as I'm concerned. Then follow with a matt. I have used both Testors Dullcote and like it but it can be hard to get sometimes. Krylon 1311 from the art store is almost just as matt in my tests, cheaper by volume, and easy to get if you have a nearby art supply store. If you are sealing bones models just be aware some people have had issues with the model never fully drying when sprayed by a rattle can and remaining tacky to the touch. I've not personally had this issue but use at your own risk. For Bones models Reapers official recommendation is to use brush on products. If you brush something on brand doesn't matter. I think many of us use Vallejo or Liquitex for this. You can also use the brush on sealers in an airbrush if thinned correctly. Bottom line I think is to pick up a small bottle of something and experiment with it to see what you like. Reapers Brush on Sealer(which is a mat finish) and Gloss Sealers are also an option.
  15. Yeah, I already have CHEPs latest profiles for Cura 4.11. Also got FDG ones too. I need to explore the supports in that other video though. This is probably a loaded question as it probably depends in part on the quirks of each printer, but what filament do you like for model printing? And does it even matter if you have it dialed in? I've been using Hatchbox PLA and Inland from Microcenter for general purpose printing with some nice results. Printed a Tricorder from Star Trek for a friend that turned out pretty nice with Inland.
  16. Oh, that's good. I'll have to check out the Pathfinder metallics. I'd like to stick with Reaper if I can.
  17. Just got my first 3D printer a few weeks back. A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Been enjoying it. I'm using Cura for my slicer. I've found a couple of premade profiles specifically for printing models but I don't know if it's the best one. Does anyone have a suggestions for a profile they like? Thanks,
  18. I haven't tried Color Shifting paints. Are those analogous to typical metallics? Or are they a different animal all together?
  19. Thanks everyone. Sounds like the topic of metallics is a personal preference one, like most things art related. 🙂 I have one Vallejo metallic that I haven't started yet. I want to use up the Reaper ones I already have. But that will likely take a long while since I don't need or use much for most things I've been painting. Unless I start painting an army of Knights and a bunch of barded horses. I've also heard excellent things about Vallejo and Scale 75 just at random places. That trick of GSW metal pigments and Vallejo Metal Medium sound very interesting. I also see GSW has a line of metallic paints, has anyone tried those?
  20. So, I know this has been asked somewhere on the forum but I can't find it. It seems my search-fu isn't strong today... I really love Reaper paints in general, but find the metallics to be not as nice as the rest of their paints. What are some of your favorite metallic paints (Reaper or otherwise)? Thanks.
  21. I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you are a super smeller. This morning before work I opened up two of my bottles and put my nose right up to the bottle. Any closer and I would have gotten paint on my nose. Only then could I smell something, there is absolutely something there. However, I've never smelled it before either brushing it on or through the airbrush. So, you aren't going mad (well, maybe you are but at least this isn't the reason).
  22. I use Stynylrez and have Black, Gray, and White. I've never had a smell from any of them. Then again, my sniffer isn't exactly the greatest but if it's strong enough to make you ligh headed I imagine I'd be able to smell it to? As suggested, a call to Badger may be a good next move.
  23. Thanks. That's a great video. I also watched all of Eons of Battle's playlist of basing videos. Some nice easy and effective ideas in that playlist.
  24. Reaper should my a Flying Spaghetti Monster model. I'd buy that.
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