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golldan

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Everything posted by golldan

  1. Tackling Aganzarax now... saw what @Sirithiliel had to do to it in assembly, I put him in hot/warm water a bit longer and assembled while warm, and then put under cold water. I did have to do some greenstuff and E-6000 seem work, but not too much. Over primer I put down black (75/25 water) as base coat. Then needed to figure out what to do, thinking of a beige or tan for wings started out with yellows, and tans, and then covered with Olive. That seemed ok, so did wash with Argrax Earthshade. Likely will bring out highlights on wings with a dry brushing of light olive and then a yellow or light tan. Planning on chest scales to be some Olive. Also, laid down some purple (Orchid Purple) on upper scales... Will likely go with a mid-grey and highlight with light grey over all black and the purple. At least that is the plan til it changes...
  2. Went for base for him next. Covered brown primer with thin layer of the Black Indigo to bring some color of spider into base. Looks like a black lump of coal...or other lump of something... Was thinking of going grey as main color, as spiders would be color of surroundings. Looking at the base it seems it has remains of chains and skulls of victims and in my mind this monster would travel to get its feast on periodically, so no need to match base/environment and animal. Ended up using some reddish browns to cover to bring in the creatures eyes (in my mind anyway...) Dragon Red and Bloodstain Red. with some tan/buff highlights. And painting the bones/skulls and random shackles and locks grey/lt grey highlights.
  3. Used Tempest Grey as first dry brush, then Ghost White, then lightly on high areas with Pure White. Used Creamy Ivory dry brush on claws, fangs, and stinger. Rolled onto the eyes. I usually do a yellow or green, but have seen some in red and it really does pop. I used Army Painter ink on the abdomen in Purple and Blue to deepen the two colors areas. Also used a bit of purple to 'stain' the highlighting on base of legs and around fangs and stinger. Used GW Rykland Flesh all over fangs/stinger/claws and after dries, used Argax Earthshade at base of them (my go to fangs, teeth, etc. recipe). Lined the gashes in black.
  4. Started with the Spider - Arokoth. Put down wash of black and then new Black Indigo and some light wet light purple design on abdomen... not sure what I will do with it, but likely dry brush up some Mid grey and light greys/purple highlights. (just looks like a bunch of black right now...)
  5. In looking at what I received for Bones 5 plus some of my other lingering Bones from 1>4, it looked like the ones I had interest in painting in the near term could go into a mass prep and have two main groups - black and brown. (I still have other select minis - Giants and Dragons that will be in future batches). So started out de-flashing and removing mold lines, then put into heated water to bend to shape, clean, then glue, then fill gaps with E-6000 or green stuff... I took my time, as I dislike this part of the process, and it took a couple of weeks. Note on Glue, I bought Crazy, Loctite, Gorilla, Ace (all available in US). I have used all before but wanted all on hand to test at same time as I had a mess of minis to put together. I am really liking the Gorilla (regular super glue) for adhesion, quickness of drying, amount you get for bottle (and cost associated) and the regular is less liquid and a bit gel like so it will fill gaps somewhat without having to have the blob like gel versions. Then on to the priming. I found the Army Painter brand does ok on Bones I have done, so I selected the Leather Brown, and found their new GameMaster brand that is primer and paint in the dark grey (ruins & cliffs), so I thought I would try. The brown, laid down well, but for a bigger can, it seems to deplete quicker. The GameMaster seems finer, and goes down well. It remains tacky, but to be honest, all rattle can blacks/dark greys I have tried have all gone down and stayed tacky. This is actually been the least tacky of the dark/black rattle can primers I have used and in some places where I got down a real thin coat, it was not sticky/tacky at all. Note - I was going to try the AV can paint, but reading the labels they do not say anywhere it is a primer too, from what I can find in the interwebs, it seems it could/is a primer maybe...) Well if any progress nicely, I will add to the Topic. Here we go...
  6. Some observations: --When painting a mini with mostly brown or grey, try not to expect it to 'pop'. Those colors to me just do not have the same punch as other colors - granted, those are usually ones used most and the subject and nature calls for it... if used, do not expect it to 'pop' visually if that is the majority of the color used. As you progress, you can pick up tips here and from videos to make your mini 'pop' in other ways. --Speaking of pop, your red hair really becomes a focal point... that 'pops'. That becomes the focal point... most redheads have a more brown/orange color set. There are some walk thru on read head on this side and other videos out there. Reaper does have a redhead triad that you can use as a guide. That said, maybe the more dramatic color was what the mini needed - maybe it is the warpaint for the tribe, or badge of honor, or does the tribe she is from dye their hair a deep crimson when going hunting/war... --The purple transitions on that lower feather look great. Maybe more blending (like the purple) or washing (to bring out the barbs on blue one) those smaller elements. If painting an animal, or part of one, look up some pictures on line as a guide. --Great work on the base, very creative. I always struggle with them. One thing is that it looks like you have some of the base grey showing and some of it painted green. Maybe try to get a full base coat of paint down for consistency. Great job for second mini!
  7. In some posts about painting clear bones/ghosts...One step was to use a clear varnish/sealer/matte medium and let dry and then use an ink or wash for that translucent look. (I see Chris P mentioned that..) https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/87909-invisible-humans-and-ghosts/&tab=comments#comment-1864744 https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/87575-experiments-with-translucent-bones-models/
  8. I saw that on my Dragon in a quick test fit... I was thinking of heating a large bowl of water and soaking this monster in there to try and from fit it in/back together better. Did you try warming/heating in warm water and re-mold the dragon?
  9. Thanks, I found that and am watching Crafty Creative on there now... so maybe when they do not have a scheduled stream they have the Bones 5 fulfillment... Thanks. https://www.twitch.tv/reaperminiatures
  10. I think Reaper is doing the order fulfillment counter site for Bones 5, but I have searched for the links for any of the feed for packing or the order fulfillment counters, but not finding any. If someone has it, could they please post it here. Thanks in advance.
  11. I would suggest you go with your gut. I am a basing beginner and not very sophisticated and usually go with blending my base in and not taking that leap on making it pop (so I would typically vote for blending in)... but if you are liking the Mediterranean, then roll with it.
  12. For Blue cotton candy, I would go with Tropical Blue for dark areas and Frost Blue for highlights.
  13. The glow in the windows looks great and the door weathering looks so real. Great job.
  14. Couldn't sleep last night, so finished him up. Put some clear coat on him this morning... Done. I am happy how he turned out - thanks for for the recommendation and suggestions/push to put down the coat/s of gloss varnish, it really helped.
  15. Got some paint down on him. He should turn out fine. I will work on finishing him up this week.
  16. Put some paint down over the gloss brush on... better. I will need to ramp up my skills and paint him now. Wish me luck! Orig on Left - After gloss coats on Right.
  17. Great job. Wonderful effects on the slime/sludge! Neat mini, your time and effort on the targeted washes looks great.
  18. This one did seem to be better than the older/examples they show on line, so I think it is some improvement. It is solid and will last with the worst Ogre using it during play. I did go ahead and used AV brush-on gloss varnish. I started doing just some, and just gave it all a coat. For the open cloth and armor areas I let dry and did x3 coats. I think this will work and hopefully will look better once I get a layer of paint down over it. I will just have to paint in back some of the details lost. Like you said @Iridil hopefully they just see their character in there and not all the stuff we might see 🙂
  19. Yes, I might have to see about some target using of gloss varnish... I will look at it and decide. Then post the results! We shall see...
  20. Yes, I saw suggestions on rough surfaces by putting gloss spray/sealers on to smooth it out. I didn't as I was afraid of loosing any detail that it had. So, I guess I could do it and if it wipes out all detail (like on eye/hair/sword) with out significant reduction in roughness, I could try to strip and do again... that's that worst that could happen right...?
  21. So a friend of one of my gaming buddies wanted a Heroforge mini painted, so I agreed to do it. I have done a few in the past, and thinking it should be no problem. Those have been the plastic or premium plastic, but when I was given the piece, it was the steel version. It is solid and will not break, very tough, but very rough texture. I did not try anything to try to smooth out because I think I will remove any details it has on it. Note-the mini looked more detailed/less textured than the sample steel minis on the Heroforge site (glad for that). So, let's see how it goes... This is what I am trying to get to: Raw mini- Primed with Tamiya Fine Lt Grey (texture is not from the primer, that is the steel) Bit worried at this point as the priming brought out the roughness of the surface and how the details were not very crisp. I did have the HF image to paint to for help on what should be where. Put some base paint down. Typically I would do one or two thin coats and start layering or wet blending depending on the feature/part of the mini. This has two or three down in most places and with the rough texture, it seems to suck the paint down and get a faded look. More like the paint is settling in, and the highpoints of the rough steel color coming thru. It will take another layer or two before I start my layering, glazing or blending. In thinking on it, it may be more simple layering that I will do on this.
  22. Bought the Romag Davl mini to try see the new Bones USA. It is really nice, crisp detail, very little flash and primer goes on nicely. I saw what Rhonda Bender did with the two main brown shades and shamelessly copied that to start. The orange/fall vibe came from the orange testing that from Highlander's post on the orange in the Irish flag. Added some horizontal texture after seeing what many have you have done to add some depth/texture to the cloth you have painted on your minis. Any tips/hints/comments/criticisms welcome. I enjoyed painting it - so crisp, it almost paints itself.
  23. So finally prepped some minis and painted the cape on one orange. Used Lava orange as base, and then wet blended the Dragon Red into recesses, and yellow up for highlights. Seemed to work out well. Although, with how far I came up on the yellow/white, it is a bit brighter than the flag example. But I think it worked out ok. Thanks for the idea/exercise and the pointers here.
  24. Thanks Clearman and crowsandbones- I will have to check the Mantis Grey out! Found that Rhonda Bender/Bird with a Brush did a blotter/swatch sampling (thanks for that) of the new colors and the Mantis grey is looking great! - Thanks again.
  25. Hey All, Have been testing colors on a batch of wraiths... and finding I am really liking the HD paints Witchcraft Purple and Armor Grey for the undead with armor. The purple was continued/replaced with 09477, but the grey was not. Trying to replace the grey and I looked at Tempest Grey (still off) and AV French Mirage Grey (closer) - has anyone found a good replacement for Reaper Armor Grey - thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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