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About Avriel

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  1. I have dragon bronze as well and found the same issues. What I found was that the milky white patches occurred with any thinning and if not used immediately after shaking. I had to shake it vigorously and apply some straight away, and quite thickly to get the shiny proper colour. It's a nice colour then but having to put it on thick obscures some details. I have citadel, scale75, vallejo model colour and vallejo air metallics and all work better, but scale75 metallics are definitely the best I've tried for brush on application. My preference is scale75 for metallics and reaper msp/bones for anything matte. The reaper paints are amazing for most colours, especially flesh tones, but their metallics aren't great (I think I heard because they try to avoid toxic substances it limits what they can use?)
  2. Thank you everyone for the replies! So if I removed earth brown, leather brown, harvest brown and replace them with say blackened brown, intense brown, russet brown and rich leather would that give me a better range? On my monitor harvest brown is almost indistinguishable with intense brown, and russet brown with blackened brown. Are they at all close in reality? Given that I'd already have some some darker browns in dark skin shadow and ebony flesh, would you say walnut brown is different enough to warrant picking up as well? And wren yes I've used your bones paint swatches to pick colours before, they are very helpful, thank you for posting them!
  3. Hi everyone! I'm planning on collecting ever more paints and was thinking about adding some more browns to my collection. The only problem is that I'm in Australia and there is absolutely nowhere nearby that I can actually see reaper paints in person. I have to order them based on what I see online and I'm painfully aware of how different online swatches can be from actual paint colour. I've tried looking up photos of models people have painted with them, but few people name each colour or put on a flat coat without blending/shading. I'm hoping someone here may have a few of the colours I'm looking at and could tell me what they think or share a photo of the actual colour (not perfect I know, but a lot closer than swatches). I don't paint anything in particular, e.g. a specific army, I just like painting a variety of things and browns are always useful. I like collecting paints so I'm not looking for a bare-minimum list to do a lot of mixing with, but I also don't want to get colours way off what I expect or too close to each other that I'll never use. My potential list to get a good, varied range of browns is: The grey-browns triad (woodstain, shield and driftwood) The red-browns triad (mahogany, chestnut and rust) - I'm looking for a nice reddish brown like jarrah or red mahogany here, and a lighter orangey rust colour - will these suit? Harvest brown, Earth brown, Leather brown Basic dirt - to me this looks more of a grey/blue toned brown with no yellowy/reddy tones in it - is that close? I already have the bronzed skin, olive skin and dark skin triads, ebony flesh, redstone and auburn hair shadow (in case they are too similar to rust brown), and vallejo model colour gold-brown and english uniform (for yellowy-browns). I could swap a few out for vallejo model colour if that would be a better option but without knowing what they really look like it's hard to compare. Does anyone have any suggestions or has had issues with any of the colours listed?
  4. I shake it a lot - I've got some scale75 metallic paints so I'm used to shaking until my arm almost drops off lol. It helps but still, if I don't use it in 30 seconds its cloudy again. I'll keep trying, maybe I just need to paint faster. Out of curiosity do any metallic paints last well on a wet palette?
  5. Just my opinion, i think the darker parts on her look more like the wood. The lighter brown does look like a nice brown skin colour, it would be great on humans. Could you blend the transition between the mini and the tree, overshoot the tree colours onto her where she connects to it a bit? Or maybe keep the colours but glaze on some wood grain effects? Nice work anyway! P.S. I've been looking for a paint that shade of warm brown you have on the tree, can you tell me what colour it is? (the base colour not the highlight)
  6. Hi everyone, I got a bottle of Dragon Bronze to try out the reaper metallics and I'm having some issues with it, specifically it seems to turn into a cloudy white film (sometimes a sparkly white film) half the time. I find I have to use it straight within about 30 seconds and just glob it on for this not to happen as often. I've tried thinning with water, lahmian medium and matte medium, and using it on a wet pallette, all of which seem to make it worse. Leaving it on the palette for any length of time also seems to guarantee this will happen. I did notice it separates very quickly within the bottle - like 5 minutes - so i shake it like mad before every use. Has anyone encountered this? Could it be the metallic medium and/or binder separating from the pigment really quickly and if so do you have any suggestions to stop it happening but still have a bit more control over the paint?? It's a nice colour when it works, almost a brassy-gold bronze so I''d like to find a way to make it work. Cheers, Avriel
  7. Thanks everyone for all the ideas! I have the citadel clear glazes but no tamiya stuff, hopefully they'll work much the same. Perhaps blood for the blood god mixed with green will give something reasonable. I might try a bunch of these ideas on paper and see what happens when I get time. I might post a picture if any turn out good, could be a useful reference for the next person. Thanks for the links ced1106, I had been looking at horseshoe crabs but didn't even think about tubeworms! I should clarify I can find references for things with green or blue blood, but images of their bruises is harder to find.
  8. Hi everyone, Long time lurker, first time poster. I finally got up the courage to post since I'm really stuck and from reading this seems like one of the nicest, most helpful forums I've ever seen. Has anyone tried painting wounds and bruises on monsters that don't have red blood? I'm painting a slightly green-skinned monster that I imagine as having green blood and wanted to add lots of wounds, but then I got stuck at the colour stage. I thought about painting wounds as normal and then adding a blue glaze, but that would still give purple and look like old red blood. A green glaze might just turn it browny and if i just replace all the normal bruisey colours with green ones it might not read as wounds, as it's not something you see often. Unfortunately there aren't many real world references to go off either. I can find plenty of great tutorials for red-blooded wounds, just not green ones. If it helps, the model is the fomorian from the Dungeons and dragons model line and the skin is mostly moldy skin with ghoul skin, highland moss and jungle moss in the shadows for colour (All reaper msp), so it's not vibrant green. I could just do it as a normal red-blooded undead instead, but now that I've run into this problem I'm curious as to what solutions people might have. Thanks for any suggestions!
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