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waska

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About waska

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  1. IDK, but looking at the gradient of colors and the ones that have the least deltas (1, 4, 5) might actually blend well? Just would need to highlight with a slightly less bright 6 to keep it cohesive and it might be alright. Any thoughts?
  2. Well, I spent some time and created a color palette of mixed colors. This definitely isn't exact but it's pretty close, though to pull off will take some effort. What I did was create a palette of mixed colors, scanned it and used select by color in GIMP on the source image to mask colors out using low tolerances. I compared the colors of the palette to that of the source image via the dropper and this calculator (http://colormine.org/delta-e-calculator) to calculate the delta between the colors. A value <2 indicates near equivalent. A few are very close and a couple are a little off but that can be sorted out by applying a little less of the colors IE (2. less purple (423) and 6. less white (439)), at least from my observations. The colors on the rankings are darkest to lightest and all mixes are 1 drop ratios. I am not sure how I am going to blend them all exactly. This is definitely not the best way to determine the color scheme because if I were to mix all these colors and try to blend via laying, feather, etc I don't think it will turn out correctly. Though, I am not sure how to get the mid-point colors otherwise since there is such an array of gray/blue/green/with some variant purple along the way. For instance, I don't think I can just take 2, 4, 6 and blend and then hope that a wash will synchronize them correctly lol. This is a fun experience haha. I may just have to give it a go and see where it gets me, I guess... If anyone has any suggestions or other ideas I am all ears. What do you think of the colors in the range? Does it seem to make optical sense to you? Appreciate the feedback!
  3. Yeah, that is the same one I came across as well. Appreciate you taking the time to comment nevertheless.
  4. Thank you for contributing and I appreciate your feedback and encouragement. I will do some small tests and see where my trial and error gets me. =D
  5. I agree that experience is worth more than some paint. I am just frugal and have been hesitant for years about jumping into the hobby of miniatures, though I know painting. So I just didn't want the paint to go unused on the model, so perhaps 'waste' is the wrong word. I definitely agree with what you are saying, however. Thank you for digging around the triads to find this. I think I will try to gain some 'xp' and go for the mixing route and see what I learn. I will try to take notes so I can get some consistency and will report back when I am able to perform the tests. Just waiting on my wet palette. =)
  6. Thank you Xiwo Xerase for your comments. I appreciate the gray-scale breakdown. I do want that kind of green / blue-green feel as pictured. I think I will do some experiments as mentioned earlier and just create some mixes with Dragon Green and Spectral Glow/Frost Blue/Glacier Blue and see how that looks. I just wanted to avoid wasting paint if at all possible and do some conversion research beforehand but seems my attempt was in vain. Without mixing any of the colors just yet, I am thinking the following: Base: Glacier Blue (or Frost Blue) + Dragon Green 3:1 Top: Dragon Green + Spectral Glow (or glacier blue) 2:1 Bottom: Spectral Glow + Frost Blue 2:1 Highlight: Spectral Glow + Frost Blue 1:2/ 1:3 or maybe some white Shade with black-green glaze I know this is a very rough breakdown but as I said, I don't think I will be able to tell until I actually do it. Just thought doing some pre-op research would have helped. Though, I could always take the white-black gray-scale approach and glaze with blueish-green, perhaps? This would be easier if there was like a blue-green triad then I could just blend the triad, but I am not sure which of the green-blue would comprise a solid triad. Maybe Dragon Green, Spectral Glow, and Frost Blue, but seems Dragon Green is too dark compared to the rest of the colors in the proposed triad. Just a little difficult to figure out that dark green to gray-blue highlight. Does any of this sound sane or does it appear I am talking out of my arse and shooting in the dark? haha
  7. Awh nuts. I guess I should have done more research. My gathering initially was that the HD paints were being discontinued and Bones HD was taking its place - a re-branding of sorts. So assumed the colors were 'the same' and altered for the new line. However, this doesn't appear to be the case. Here, they say the HD line is discontinued: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/82088-msp-hd-line-to-be-discontinued/ Here, they introduce MSP Bones: https://www.facebook.com/ReaperMini/posts/introducing-msp-bones-hd-paintsreaper-miniatures-inc-is-pleased-to-announce-the-/10153664657493057/ Here, they say what you are saying, where they 'compliment' the existing Reaper and HD paints. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/65247-msp-bones-hd-paints/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-1253337 This saddens me because I bought the Bones MSP 54 kit as I thought it would be a great starter. Which, it seems to have many colors, but how those colors map to others across the spectrum of other companies is pretty much null and void. I guess I am left to guess and mix my own within the set to get to the desired color scheme I am wanting. Queue le sad... =( Appreciate the response. All in all, I am just trying to figure out how to get the paint scheme of this without having to buy a bunch of other colors. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/85997-painting-scheme-citadel-conversion-with-reaper-msp-bones/
  8. Is there a conversion chart somewhere or a list of colors for the HD lines and how they map to the 'new' Bones HD line replacement? I am trying to compare colors and all charts online utilize the HD line and not sure how I can tie in the HD line with the Bones HD lines which I have. This is the conversion chart I am using and as you can see there is only the HD line. So trying to figure out which of the Bones HD to substitute in. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xl-x9eW3bLw5eqDeNUG2JUwn2EZwn34TDKfNIg5uul4/edit#gid=8 Thanks all for your input. Reaper Bones: HD Set 1: HD Set 2: HD Set 3:
  9. Appreciate the feedback and the method of approach. I will do some more refinement and see where it leads. I have a bad habit of just going in without taking pictures or anything but I will try to document it a little bit and report back, in case someone else might be interested.
  10. I recently purchased the MSP Bones Colors Full Set (the 54 colors) and am having a hard time figuring out the conversions across other company's paints. I found a conversion sheet but it does not have the 'MSP Bones' lines. I know the HD line was discontinued so I am unsure how the Bones line meets with the HD in terms of names-to-pigments. Basically, I am trying to figure out which colors to use to accomplish a look similar to these. (Pictured below). In a blog post, it was indicated "Basically a pale green base on the lower part and a dark green on the upper half roughly blended together with a heavy glaze of the new Nighthaunt Gloom to blend the transition. A little Coelia Greenshade on the upper half and then highlights with Ulthuan Grey." Being colorblind doesn't help here either when it comes to differentiating greens, greys, and light green-blues. In looking at the color swatch of given colors (below) and combining that with the description of the blog post what are the best colors to use to accomplish a similar look / tone? Base in Dragon Green (top) Base Dragon Green + Spectral Glow ~1:3 ratio (bottom) Blend using glazes down to a highlight of Spectral Glow (or slightly lighter Spectral Glow with added white) or a heavily lightened Wolf Grey to get to 'Ulthuan Grey' (from above)? Any help or ideas in which colors to use, blend, etc to accomplish this look is appreciated. Thank you for the help!
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