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Everything posted by jonfreeman

  1. I suspect you're lying. that's really good for your first mini. ;)
  2. solid job with the fabric designs ^^
  3. I picked up some better (stronger) nippers and just took a little more time getting it together. But yeah, thanks again, everyone!
  4. where did you buy this guy? I could actually use a figure like him. lol
  5. this. I do have slotted bases. that's not the issue (fortunately) The issue is that I can't get my current (limited) cutting tools between the base-slot and the long-bar that's the basis of the spru (the one with the part number stamped in it)
  6. So, I'm expanding my horizons, and I got a sprue model. yay. Unfortunately these spanish inquisition boys have slotted bases that run flush with the sprue holder. It's a fairly hard resin, and I can't make any dents with my hobby knife. ... so ... what tool do I need in order to get these slotted bases to disconnect from the core sprue? :c Thanks in advance
  7. Found this painted picture of the Reaper model. That one looks like it's close enough to what I need. May just elevate him a little so other figures can stand behind where the tail is is all. ^^ thanks! Funny you say that! The whole point is I'm making a villain for Descent, namely that white dragon that appears on the box cover art and nowhere else in the game. lol So yeah, Valyndra's a great model, but sadly won't work for my intentions. ^^;;;
  8. something I've found to be super frustrating is that a lot of the Amazon listings state the product dimensions in terms of PACKAGE dimensions. There's a lot of instances where that differs from the actual model itself. Being said, the Nolzur one looks like it fits the bill close enough. =) thanks for the heads up. and yeah, I'll check the others as well. Overhang's fine as long as the overhang isn't ground level (i.e. I can still get minis in on the adjacent spaces).
  9. yeah, that's the other size of dragons I kept bumping into: 2x2 or 3x3. 8\ ... but none 3x2
  10. Specifically looking for a dragon that would fit on a 75x50 mm base. I specified plastic because metallic minis of that scale get pricey. :c So yeah, it's kinda hard since companies are really horrible about giving any sense of how big their minis are (I mean, an unflattering picture of the mini standing on a 25mm grid paper would genuinely help tremondously) ... and dragons tend to either be tiny or table filling. ^^;
  11. soooooo... here's the beginner-level question. I do want to use more of the cheaty-technical paints like gloss paints, irridescent, metallics, etc. buuuuuuuuut ... water doesn't behave ideally with them like other paints. (lost some detail one one model I painted) ... would paint-grade thinners like llamia medium work? or will i need other stuff for the special effects thick paints. Thanks in advance
  12. what company is this from? not seeing the SKU in reaper's store
  13. general quick question my brother's getting into the hobby (painting things down separately at his house), he's doing pretty good over all, but he's running into an issue with Nuln Oil. Basically, any time he uses it, there's a bit of a shine that results from it. For metallic/armored figures (like an imperial probe droid or storm troopers), this is fine. But for other organic figures (like a wookie) it's basically resulting in them looking like they're in the middle of a rain storm. So, I'm not there painting with him - I don't know if this is user error - but I was wondering if you could answer a couple questions ... A) is there a technique that would cause more "oil" shine from Nuln Oil, or less of it? (i.e. how do you get a more matte finish without having to rely on heavy matte spray-on-varnish) B) is there an alternative black shade to Nuln Oil that doesn't leave as shiny of a texture? Thanks in advance!
  14. What size base did you use for this? That looks like a 75x50 mm, but I can't really tell ^^;
  15. hmmmm... she didn't seem to mind the spiders that I painted previously from my descent collection as much. (those I actually painted ghost-white/gray and she could stand them rather than looking away). So maybe if I painted some spiders up non-spider-like she'd be able to handle it better.
  16. So this is a narrow-focus type of question ... Is there a fantasy miniatures game that DOESN'T have spiders in it? A player in the house is open to the idea of minis board games ... but is also an arachnophobe. So ... that eliminates some games like Mice and Mystics (where spiders are common threats). If anyone has other ideas to try out, would be appreciated. Thanks!
  17. shake's pretty bad. I have to zone out with noise-cancel headphones and rest my holding hand on the table to control the tremor down to where I can paint. (won't win any competitions, but I do a passable job for tabletop standard). the deal with airbrushing is really both the cost vs potential benefits ... - the core reason I see everyone loving airbrushes is faster/smoother coverage while doing regular paints and blending - with my tremor how it is, I wouldn't be able to airbrush an even blend while working with the actual base paints. - ... so that kinda leaves the only advantageous use for airbrushes being speed during priming, which isn't that significant in comparison to rattle-cans (I use army painter mostly, happy with those) - and there's the cost associated with it for me, it really is just an edgecase where airbrushing isn't that valid for me. ^^;
  18. the kicker is that some of these are from the Runewars Miniatures game = so it's the issue of getting the primer on some of the overlapping parts. So a piece that just has a head and a cape isn't exactly easy to poster tack for the rattlecan usage. Hence - brush-on primers. Thanks for pointing me in the direction! :D
  19. Upfront - I don't have an airbrush. hand tremors would prohibit any form of even coverage using one of those. Just bear that in mind regarding replies ... I normally do priming with a rattlecan (black, gray, or white). I got a couple of super light weight minis in the queue, though, and I feel the rattlecan might not work for the scenario. Does anyone have suggestions on which paint-on primers to go with? (I don't have a singular main army to paint, so it'd have to be black/gray/white for flexibility) THANKS!
  20. turned out sweet, what are these boys from?
  21. So I picked up the board game Horrified, and I really enjoy it. In short = it's a licensed Universal Monsters co-op game, where you tackle a small handful of the various villains. Mechanics are decent, the thematic care make it really fun. Anyhoo... the game comes with 25mm minis for the main villains, plus little standees for everyone else. These standees include both archetypal hero characters (the professor, the female explorer) or named side-characters from the classic Universal films (Renfield, Fritz, Lucy, etc). Naturally, I feel the urge to buy figures to replace all the standees. Most of the figures will be easy to find surrogates for, as they're either based on archetypes or are the foundation of archetypes. There are 2, however, that I know I'll have issues with... - The player character known as "The Mayor" is a graceful old woman in a wheelchair. I know off the bat that will be hard to find. - Wilbur and Chick (Abbot and Costello's character from Abbot and Costello Meet Frankenstein) are a single standee as civilians. That's 2 oddly recognizable delivery men on the same stand. lol So yeah, if you have any suggestions on what I could use for these characters - it would be greatly appreciated. =) thanks
  22. I'm in the opinion that slightly exaggerated shades/highlights are great for miniatures (it helps the visibility/legibility factor from across the table). So ... yeah, I think this one's good. ^^
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