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Wolf Munroe

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    Charleston, WV

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  1. I have lots of available pill bottles. So... I use pill bottles weighted with pennies so they're not top-heavy when they have a miniature on top.
  2. I'm using Bostik White Stick'n Fix Reusable Adhesive. It's basic poster tack, and some I already had on hand when I got into miniatures. Apparently Bostik also makes Blu Tack brand, so I don't know if they're significantly different or not as I just use what I had on-hand.
  3. While I can't answer with certainty as I'm just another customer, if it says it's the right paint name and number, it sounds like you got the right paints. It's probably that the paint label printer's software didn't have its logo field updated before printing a batch of labels for a different color of paint. The paint name and SKU # were changed for a new paint label, but the brand logo was probably neglected as it doesn't need changed between every color like is required for the SKU and paint name. That's my theory anyway. I have a bottle that has a Bones label that was not listed as part of the Bones line and another bottle that is named and numbered as a Bones paint that has a Core Colors label. All the SKU numbers are correct and the paint names are correct though.
  4. Yeah, just an update. That bottle of paint was definitely bad. I ordered a new bottle of 09332 Oxide Red directly from Reaper and it arrived today. It's great. Look at that difference. That square swatch of Oxide Red from the original bottle is actually two coats. The square swatch from the new bottle is only one coat. The 11e21 and 27g22 numbers are codes that were printed on the bottles. I'm not sure if that has any significance or not, but the 09331 and 09333 I own are also 11e21.
  5. Thanks. I'll chalk that one up to my ignorance of old school monsters.
  6. Just saw this miniature set (30135 Morbids) in the shop. Not familiar with such a creature. What are they? What are they from? They have the "human" tag among their tags; they do look mostly human but they all have monstrous feet that make them seem inhuman. Are they in the Dungeon Dwellers RPG or are they from somewhere else? They're in the Bones USA Reaper Legends product line.
  7. I decided to wait a bit on Nightmare Black (and/or Black Indigo) purchase for now.... because I just saw that 29189 Ravenfeather in the ReaperCon 2023 Triad and it has me fanning myself. "I do declare!" No idea how it actually looks, but I wanted it. So, yeah, I had to get my order in for the triad immediately. Otherwise I'd just miss out on that. That's how they get you. I do think I'm going to pick-up some Nightmare Black though, based on this information... just not for awhile yet. I'm not as committed about Black Indigo.
  8. Yeah, that's a huge difference. Thanks for this, really. Sorry I took so long to come back and check it out. That Nightmare Black is REALLY blue. Now I need to go back and look at the blues I already have. I try not to buy colors that are so similar that I arbitrarily pick which one to use. I think I can pull off a shade very similar to that black indigo already, though I don't have that color. I do love Coal Black (and have extra bottles since it's seasonal) but it's definitely far more black than those other two, even with the green aspect.
  9. Even with no experience with Black Indigo, this helps. I have 09693 Coal Black, 09479 Solid Black, 89546 Besmara Black, and 09318 Carbon Grey (which is quite a dark gray). I think Solid Black and Besmara Black are both blacker than Coal Black, but I do often use Coal Black as my primary black. I'd like to get one of these two colors Nightmare Black or Black Indigo as a very dark blueish shade but I'm not sure which is darker, or how blue the Black Indigo looks. I've heard Nightmare Black mentioned on some painting videos. (I can't remember if I saw Anne Foerster, Rhonda Bender, or Michael Mordor using it now.) Of course maybe I don't need either one... I have enough paints already, I'm sure. (I tell myself this while looking at my bank account balance.) Also, to add: My search-fu was better this time than the first time I tried to look up these paints. It got me this page on the forums here that compares several near-blacks. It has a swatch for Nightmare Black but only describes Black Indigo, unfortunately. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/96935-black-paint-advise/
  10. 09280 Nightmare Black and 09328 Black Indigo both look like various shades of very dark blue to me, but they don't use the same format for their color swatches on the website. The Nightmare Black has that flat square of color swatch and the Black Indigo has that newer glossy bubble color swatch, which seems much worse to me, but maybe I don't know how to read it. Which one of them is darker? Which one of them is bluer? Also, how do they compare to 09693 Coal Black? I have that one already, and maybe I don't need that many off-blacks.
  11. Thanks. I'll take a look at your paint-care document. I'm pretty sure the paint is "bad" but it doesn't match any of the descriptions you gave. It's definitely not opaque, but I could live with that if it didn't pull back off whenever I paint over it. I think it's only the oxidized red, but I haven't used the other two "oxidized" colors much. I ordered them loose (not in a triad) from Pippd in early May and they were shipped from Texas so I don't think freezing would be an issue. I mean I usually don't think about freezing temperatures in Texas anyway. I'm probably not going to do anything else about it, but knowing it's not the normal behavior for the paint, I might get another bottle later. I should paint a bit more with the other two oxidized colors though, see how they're working.
  12. Hmm. I just got the paint at the beginning of May, so I certainly didn't freeze it. I ordered from Pippd and it shipped from Denton, TX, so I hope it didn't freeze in Texas, and I didn't order it during the cold season (plus the other 6 colors I ordered seem fine from the shipping), but weather has been weird the last few years. I'll give it a shot. It certainly can't hurt at this point. I did put a stainless steel machine screw in the bottle already to act as an agitator, as I do with all my paints, but I can try stirring too.
  13. OK, so I've been repainting 03563 Tinsley, Female Wizard, which is the same miniature I had a problem with the first time. I stripped her to bare metal with Simple Green. I primed her with MSP 09214 Black Primer. I drybrushed her with Apple Barrel Pewter Grey. I drybrushed her with Apple Barrel Pewter Grey and Apple Barrel White. I applied one coat of MSP 09612 Chocolate Bar to her staff. I applied one coat of MSP 09332 Oxide Red to her dress, painting over black primer, gray drybrushed, and white drybrushed sections. I waited more than a full day to make sure she was dry. I applied a coat of 09044 Tanned Skin to her exposed skin and places on the miniature that I wanted to make her dress transparent. This was painted OVER a layer of Oxide Red on her dress. I let her dry overnight. I applied a second coat of MSP 09332 Oxide Red to her dress, painting over 09044 Tanned Skin in places. I waited more than a full day to make sure she was dry. I applied a third coat of MSP 09332 Oxide Red to her dress. The entire thing was still very transparent. I let it dry overnight again. I decided to try mixing the MSP 09332 Oxide Red with some glaze medium and try again. I mixed the MSP 09332 Oxide Red with Liquitex Glazing Medium and a few drops of water. (Liquitex Glazing Medium is very thick.) I just now ATTEMPTED to paint the MSP 09332 Oxide Red and Glazing Medium onto Tinsley's dress. The brush covered in the Oxide Red Glaze Mix pulled up all the coats of the MSP 09332 Oxide Red EXCEPT what was painted over the 09044 Tanned Skin. The paint that came up was like a bubbly slurry. This time the primer coat was not damaged. I rinsed the miniature off under warm water and the primer and dry-brush layers, and the bits that had tanned skin under them, all appear undamaged. I think there's definitely something wrong with the paint. I want to try two things: 1.) Just start with the Oxide+Glaze mix. See if that works better. That Glazing Medium dries super-hard and glossy normally. I just used it yesterday with 09097 Clear Blue on a different miniature and painted over that coat today. 2.) I could try undercoating the entire miniature with Tanned Skin. The Oxide Red seems to adhere to it better than the primer. If it doesn't work after one of these solutions, I'll just give up on it. I noticed it's very similar in color to 09242 Carrot Top Red, so I can just paint the dress with that. I really just wanted to use my new Oxide Red paint. I also need to thoroughly test the other two "oxide" colors I got because this one has me concerned. They didn't have any significant issues adhering to the cap though, and I've put the 09333 Oxide Brown on 02484 Mummy Lord of Hakir and so far it seems fine, but I haven't tried to paint over it yet.
  14. Yeah, I saw Anne talking about them on one of the streams as single pigment paints (like 5/6 of the Clear Brights) so decided to pick them up. The Clear Brights are great. So far the Oxide Red hasn't worked as I expected. I haven't used the yellow yet, and have barely used the brown. I don't know yet if it's a "bad batch" as was suggested above though, or if they're just something I need to learn.
  15. Yeah, the test swatches I've done look more like what's on the right than the left there. Almost exactly like what's on the right, except that's without thinning. I'm doing some new test swatches to see if I get different results when I'm mindful.
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