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Everything posted by Otter

  1. I'm thinking that the flesh tones are a little too red or purple-ish for my tastes, but otherwise looks good. I will suggest propping a piece of white or light-colored paper up behind when photographing - it'll get rid of the visual clutter in the background, and may help lighten the shot up, too.
  2. I was just wondering how to decide what to do for my person, doofus me didn't think of looking at what they've posted here. If anyone wants to search for us, Liana Winsauer is me - Otter, and Ron Winsauer is Dracos.
  3. I'm confused...I thought you brought her home without a base. Base looks good, too. I think the Sprout may have some really small shells lurking around in his piles-o-stuff that you might be able to liberate...
  4. Otter


    Looks purple to me, too, even in the lighter picture. I started doing my E-Vil army for Warlords in Not-Black, also. Seems that I wasn't as original as I was hoping in going for purple, though.
  5. Adding a little grunge/dirt/weathering to the striping might help, too.
  6. There's a couple things that can cause dry-brushing to remove previous layers of paint in my experience. The first is that the previous coats aren't completely dry. If you can, wait overnight or at least a couple hours for the base colors to dry before starting to dry-brush. Or at least go do a bit on another mini. The second is paint incompatibility - A couple years ago I found out that I just couldn't use Tamiya acrylics and Testors Model Master Acrylics together if I wanted to dry-brush. IIRC the Tamiya would strip the Testors, even after the Testors getting a day or three dry time (I didn't have the patience to try a longer time). Shouldn't be an issue if you're sticking to one type of paint, of course. Yep, dry-brushing can be hard on brushes, depending on your technique. Dracos and I have separate sets of brushes, mine is bigger than his because he manages to dry-brush without stressing brushes, and I don't. Once my brushes start hooking or are otherwise not working for painting, they get moved to the dry-brush-brush category.
  7. I can see both sides of this one - it's a pretty cool hack, but I think I'll pass on the possible, ahem, flavor enhancements, it may also provide.
  8. I can't resist putting in another compliment on those great wings!
  9. The minis I've stripped with Simple Green have had been painted for a week or less with acrylics, and were soaked for about 5 - 45 minutes, then had a light scrubbing with a nylon brush (sold for cleaning dishes, a toothbrush would also work) under running water.
  10. I don't think it's a wierd color scheme at all. I may have to try that yellow to red shading on something of mine. The blending on those areas looks like you've got the right idea, the waist pieces on the foreground figure in the group shot, especially, look good.
  11. Otter


    Thanks everyone, I figured people would either love them, or run away screaming. They are going to be part of my Necropolis army, but the next sets will be in nice, calm, easy, solid colors...like red.
  12. Otter


    The first time I saw the Wraith Harvesters, I thought "Golfers!" And y'all can blame Ghost Rider, when I made the smart-aleck comment that I should do wraiths in loud plaid, he dared me to do it and post them. OK, I wimped out and couldn't bring myself to commit plaid a third time.d Individual shots of each to follow, more at http://www.zarquon.net/~otter/Golf_wraith_050131_01.jpg through http://www.zarquon.net/~otter/Golf_wraith_050131_16.jpg for the masochistic
  13. Ah, good point about the teeth! Thank you all for the tips! I will try to make a few changes before I base the guy. A little light green and/or tan dry-brushed across them ought to give the teeth that nasty rotten look.
  14. Satin is between very flat not-shiny matte and really shiny glossy. Smooth, not chalky looking like some mattes, maybe a bit of shine, but not super-shiny, either. Matte -> Satin -> Gloss is a continuum, more than three discrete steps, and the whole middle range is open to personal interpretation, so one person's satin may be over the next person's dividing line to gloss or matte.
  15. The scuffing on the feet is a nice touch, and subtly done.
  16. Interesting. My husband and I have the opposite opinion. We've tried thinning them for base coats several times (after seeing "Thin your paints" here many times), and the end result has been frustration with having to do many coats to get coverage. YMMV in action!
  17. Well, my Barbie's default clothing state was clothed, but she hung out with my Bionic Woman, they did things more in the Bionic Woman's style, and there were no Kens or GI Joes to be seen (the girl dolls probably woulda karate-chopped them or something). I seem to remember seeing my sister's Barbies naked more often than not, but I was mostly out of the house by then.
  18. I keep flip-flopping on all skin tones and a mix of skin tones and other colors to finish an included mini. There's been good points both ways. I unreservedly like the suggestion of selling booklets of the painting guide information, as we already own all the current Master Series paints and plan on buying the new ones as they come out.
  19. Hmm. I thought I heard somewhere that the new guy in Barbie's life was an Australian surfer-dude. Or did he get eaten by a pink flowerdy Barbie-shark? There are days I'm very glad my sprout is a boy...I don't have to endure The Aisle of Pinkness at the toy stores.
  20. The lava effects on the body are just gorgeous!
  21. Actually, .jpg and .jpeg are one and the same, they are interchangable file extensions for JPEG format files (just like .htm and .html are both HTML code). IIRC the .jpg extension came about from software or systems that couldn't handle the 4-letter .jpeg extension. I'm not generally a software geek, but this bit of trivia I looked up a while back for boring reasons that I've just edited out.
  22. I'm with the others, your minis look great to start with. I don't know what level of photography experience/skill you have, so please forgive me if these are really basic suggestions : Get out the photography books and magazines and (re-) read them. If your new camera has the options of manually setting exposure, apeture, etc., learn to use it in non-auto mode. In some cases the computer's brains may know best, in others you may do better. Take series of pictures, changing only one thing at a time (and try to keep track of what you changed each time). Even if your camera is doing auto-everything, you can do things like trying different background colors (dark vs light, netral vs. colored), different light bulbs, different arrangements of your lighting, focusing on a light-colored vs. a dark-colored section of the mini, and see what happens each time. Even try changing things that you don't necessarily think would change the picture. We've been getting the best results turning off the regular interior lights and taking pictures with only the lights on the mini. Kind of surprising that the ambient light wasn't being overwhelmed by the lighting for the picture, but it was having an effect.
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