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Original_Carl

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About Original_Carl

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    Rabble Rouser

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    Role-Playing Games, Board Games, Painting Minis

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  1. Everyone is painting Mumlak! I just posted in Show Off. :) I think I'm the only one who didn't shave the mold lines off his tusks. :(
  2. I just painted this guy, too! I was going to start a new topic, but since you just posted this two weeks ago... I'd like to have had a gloss black for the adz, but a new paint job is only a bath in Simple Green away. Cheers!
  3. I went out to Jabberwocky's blog and saw that this tutorial and photos are there. http://jabberwockyminiatures.blogspot.com/p/short-shaded-metallics-tutorial.html Thanks @Jabberwocky this tutorial is guiding my next project.
  4. I just tried to follow a link to Painting Armor and Weapons on Miniatures and I got: http: // www . fantasypartystore . com / scripts / openExtra . asp ? extra = 98 (I added in the spaces so you wouldn't get hit with a script, too.) Which is an "available" domain who's home page shows a young woman in her underwear. Good morning! I think these links are long gone, and I'm a bit sad. That said, many of the links and photos I've looked for in the forums that are over about 3 years old seems to be missing, dead or redirected to something .... unsavory. Is there some kind of clean up you forum admins have access to?
  5. More pictures! I like what I see so far.
  6. Maybe I should have gone Space Wolves....
  7. I wanted a little break from fantasy, so I opted for these Space Mouslings. They are clearly an homage to GW Space Marines, and so I chose some colors that I thought would best represent the mice from Hitchhiker's Guide if they had some kind of "tactical response" team. I chose the Dark Angels as my reference. They seemed suitably shady and mysterious. I started these guys on Jan 14th, and I decided I was done last night. Here we go! For this project, I opted for minimal mini prep. I did no Xacto work, no putty. I didn't even wash them. I took them out of their little plastic bags, mounted them on handles and got to it. For reference, this is what they look like before you do anything to them. First up, the Green Liner method. This is undiluted, by the way and it's still wet as I took the photo. Green liner for the armor. Grey liner for the mouse and its weapon. At this point, I have no idea what to do with the bases. Eventually, I'll opt to just paint them black. After applying the liner and looking at it for a while, the voice of Reaper continued to echo through my head, "Just paint your base colors directly onto the mini. No primer needed!" Here's that first result. Ancient Oak for the armor and Mountain Stone for the weapon and head. This is still wet in the photo. There's pooling, and I'll go through and correct that after the photo. In this brief side-by side, I've decided that skipping the liner was the best approach for these guys. In the end, it was simply fewer steps. Once I had the base color on, I could just start details and highlighting. With the liners, I have to base color after, so in my mind they were just adding an extra step for a level of color that would probably never be seen. My opinion may change on the next project. On the left is the paint-based model, on the right is the model I based with liner. As I study these photos, I see that the coverage on the liner is thinner -- I can see plastic filtering through. This will persist throughout until I can get sufficient paint on the model to give me a solid block of color. The paint-based model also has some coverage issues, but I think they're less-pronounced. Reaper Bones paint seems to shrink very nicely upon curing. And here they are all are, based with Ancient Oak and Mountain Stone. You can see the liner-guy in the back. At this point I've done some model assembly, and I'm already starting to regret it. These dudes are so small that getting to all their nooks and crannies is pretty much impossible if you have all their stuff glued together. Boo me. At least I learned something. At this point, I go to the faces. I find that if I get the face done first, the rest of the model comes along pretty easily. Also, the accessories I haven't glued on yet are below. I had a moment of clarity with the rocket launcher and the officer's short cloak. I mentioned that I wanted to use the mice from Hitchhiker's Guide and I remembered them being white lab mice. Then I figured I needed a little diversity, because otherwise it's just weird, so I made one guy brown (technically, two, but the flamer guy is in a mask :-D ) I've opted to paint the bases black and be happy with that. Face details. Real mice don't have that much pink in their ears, but they just didn't stand out enough with it. Artistic license! Dark Angels have red weapon details, so here's the start of that. I went with Dragon Red first, and then Heraldic Red. They never got red enough. Next time I do red, I'm basing with a light tan. Maybe even a white. It's so hard to get red to pop, and I really wanted that here. Ah well. This is where I'm starting the shoulder insignia details, too. Again, I should have based the red logos with a much, much lighter color rather than starting with Dragon Red. :-( Here we go. Heraldic Red is now on the weapons and shoulders. More logo work. And more white on the shoulders. After I finished the chest insignia on the officer and the weapon insignia on the heavy I considered going back and doing the same thing on the shoulder: grey base and white detail, but I think it would dominate the model. Weapon details were next. Now the highlighting begins, after final assembly. This is how I'm going to do it from now one. First paint them up until you're ready to focus on details. Then assemble and detail. I've put a red stripe on the officer's cape. It's a Dark Angels thing. Highlighting, phase 2. I've been telling myself I need to be more aggressive about highlighting, so here's that. And finals: Repent! For tomorrow you die! -- Dark Angels battlecry. As always, thanks for your comments and critique.
  8. I have a fair number of minis. Some old, some new. Until recently, the idea of selling any of them was abhorrent. But now I find myself at a point where I don't know that I need to have a bunch (like hundreds) of random Ral Partha and Grenadier stuff from the early-to-mid 1980s, so I'm beginning to organize it into lots for sale on eBay as I see there is now a rather robust collectors market for it. Has anyone else done this? I'm experimenting right now and any stories or memorable experiences would be helpful. Thanks for your input!
  9. I'm just not ready for an airbrush. I don't have the space and the expense is difficult to justify. I've heard a lot of good things about Stynylrez, but haven't spent yet more money on another attempt at getting some kind of basecoat on these things so I can paint them. Thanks for the tips on basecoating for reds and yellows. I'll try that going forward.
  10. I have. That was my first attempt when I got the stuff. The model came out really blotchy, but I powered through it and eventually, after many coats I got this: You can still see the weird shadows under his cloak. It took a lot more work to get him to this: I thought that might have been a fluke, so I started another model: He's in the dip now. I used unthinned brown liner on him. Compare that to this bear, who I did 1:5, liner:wash medium: There may be a Bones 2 vs. Bones 3 factoring into this, too. Some of these white models just laugh at my foolish attempts at paint/liner/primer. Others are pretty agreeable, no matter what. Again, thanks for all the replies and feedback. It's taken me years to get around to getting "more serious" about painting and Reaper, and this forum have been influential in that journey. :peace:
  11. I opted to paint it like a Kodiak bear. I didn't quite have the colors I wanted, but it was close. The yellow halo/mane was inspired by a photo of a Kodiak in the wild. Although that one was considerably more golden in color, I made a few attempts and stopped here. For this model I used Brown Liner thinned with Wash Medium (1:5 or so) and then I built up using Bones browns. The snow is baking soda and PVA glue (1:1) -- first time for me using that and I like it. I thinned my first batch of it with a little water, but that made it too smooth and flat when it dried. It was a fine effect, but not what I was going for.
  12. I’ve had bad luck with rattle cans, too. I’ve tried Krylon’s primer for plastic, Army Painter and Citadel. The more recent the Bones material, the better the results, but I think I’m done with rattle cans. My models all seem to end up shiny and sticky.
  13. I’ve had such mixed luck with primers and already bought so many that I could not justify buying anything new until I had explored this liner option more. After reading about it, I had to try it and when I did, I was not getting results like some of the photos here. Thinning 1:5 liner to wash medium gets me results much more in line with some of the better examples I’ve seen, but I’ve only done 4 minis with it so far. I’ll get these painted and then try some more. I’m trying to define a good process for painting my hundreds of Bones minis. I’m looking to get my time per figure down to a three hours or so. I think the key to faster completion is less rework. Having a fast base coat that does deep shadows, brings out details and gives you a good adhesion surface for paint saves a lot of rework. I’ve still got a lot of Bones 2 and 3 unpainted. I think I painted fewer than 5 Bones 4 and I bought two expansions. I now have 40 or so painted total since my Bones 2 Kickstarter. I’ve dipped, stripped and repainted several of those since I started all those years ago with craft paints (I have a big box of Reaper paints now!). It’s been a journey. Along the with my process I’m developing my own techniques and skills. Speed is an issue, but I want them to look good, too. Preparing minis and getting those first colors on has been a challenge from the start. Painting over white is not easy and as hydrophobic as some of the Bones models are, even Reaper Bones paint unthinned would bead up on the mini. And I don’t like painting unthinned. I like thin coats and washes. Did I mention I’ve dipped and stripped several? Lots of false starts, I’m afraid. The journey continues. I’m liking the results of the thinner liner so far. I have yet to try FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium, but I’m looking forward to the experiment. Thanks all for replying to this Zombie Thread o__O
  14. I have wash medium, so I’ll try liner-to-medium at 1: 3 or 4. I’ve been using 1:2 or 3 so far and it’s just too dark.
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