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Posts posted by prophet118

  1. quick steel might work, although it tends to be pretty messy... but then if you are using jb weld, you are used to things being messy..lol


    i use quick steel to secure warlord figures to their base (and anything else that comes with a seperate base.)


    you can get quick steel from walmart or othe rplaces, in just about the same place you got the jb weld.

  2. well, the nice part is getting hard cover versions of the players options books..


    95 bucks for 9 books, average of 10 bucks a book... thats not really that bad.


    sure you could get digital copies, but you dont seem to be wanting digital ones, and i dont blame you.


    having said that, ive got plenty of 2nd edition material of you'd like more..lol

  3. i pick and choose... based on which company has the color i need..


    im going to buy a few vallejo paint packs (earth tones and such), i still buy some GW stuff, ive got an order on hold to reaper for some pro stuff, AND a few triads of MSP, mainly because i like many options..lol

  4. ive noticed that on a friends primer (citadel white)


    ive stopped using citadel primer period..lol


    i use a grey primer i bought at walmart for $1.97, works great, its Color Spray, premium enamel, comes in a textured can. its by "Chase products"


    http://www.chaseproducts.com/chase_spec.cfm?lookup=4125037 heres the info page


    ive not had any bad experience with this primer, but when i bought it, i figured if i did, i was only out 2 bucks..lol

  5. I wonder which we, as gamers have more of....






    Sets of Dice (Counting the individual dice would be a landslide)

    well, for complete sets of dice, i only have like 4 or 5... but my mom bought me the pound of dice thing from chessex 2 christmases ago..lol


    so ive got plenty of individual dice.


    i dont really have a complete set of brushes though..lol

  6. I've been working from darkest to lightest, but I'm still learning. I don't think I've yet to find the best method for me, yet.


    I've tried the midtone first, and that was okay, but I'm trying different methods to find which one works.


    In the end, that's the most important. Whatever works for you to achieve the results you want. ^_^

    true... i think with applying midtone first, it can be a bit of a hassle, especially if you are a "must see the end product quickly" kind of person


    with the midton first it gives you a basic idea of where to go

  7. id call it realistic... lol.


    ive started to use a black wash on most of my silver armor... it adds a bit of.. grime?... reality?


    hah, whatever it is, its fun

    Vallejo makes an 'oil' in their Game Color line that works really well too.

    cool, i might have to check that out, got a link for me?

  8. i tend to start with my midtone on flesh as well..lol


    reds work extremely well for me with this method..


    usually i start with a flat tone (like red gore, or something) then i add in my custom made wash of red gore (1/4 red gore 1/4 black wash, the rest is filtered water) so if im doing a cloak, i'll do the mid tone, then add this red wash in the creases and folds, then touch up my midtone, then add in my highlight (which is usually blood red, or if i need it lighter, i add some white to it)


    when i did Arrius the black, i did this technique, but also went back and added a black wash over the shadows on the cloak, i think it looks sweet..lol

  9. so far it seems pretty split..lol


    "depends on the mini".. id be forced to agree, although the only one that comes to mine for me, was when i did the Onyx Golem... i just did a flat paint job, dark angels green and a reaper pro green (like od green or something)... no need to do midtones/highlights on him..lol

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