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TPSminis

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About TPSminis

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  1. I decided to paint the entire bunch of snake cultist minis from Bones 4 as the most deadly snakes of the world. The paint jobs were fine for tabletop play, but I felt like I could have done a better job. Thus, I added more paint and touched them up. I'm much happier with how these turned out. I'm still in the process of painting the other snakes, but here are the two archers, one a black mamba and the other a boomslang. I LOVE THESE MODELS. Painting the scales was a lot of fun. Unfortunately, there are still mold lines in these minis, mainly because I don't feel like my hands are quite
  2. Got it, understood. Honestly, aside from these small issues, the quality is really impressive and the fit-up of the parts is making assembly very very easy. Absolutely worth the money!
  3. I'm just a bit surprised that the warping is so consistent, and only for the Obake and the Duelist. All of the others (Ace Pilot level pledge) fit very very accurately, impressively so. There are some very long weapons that have some warping, but they are thin and this is completely within my expectations. Bending those back with the hot water technique will be easy, but I'm really not sure about trying to bend the much thicker legs. The other issue I'm worried about when using the hot water technique is what tools I should use to submerge the part, especially if the water is boiling. I'd
  4. Did you have any issues with your Obake and Duelist legs? I found both models' legs to seem like they are bent the wrong way when assembling them. If at all possible, could you share what both models look like after assembling? I'm not sure if this is an issue only with the ones I received, or if there is some trick to it that I'm not seeing. Pics attached (first two are Obake legs, where the hip joint seems to be on the wrong side, third is Duelist with what seems like the same issue). Note that I am putting the right peg in the right hole oriented in the right direction (it goes in the
  5. Thank you! So there are a couple of recipes used in creating snow using baking soda, but the one that I used in this instance is simply white PVA and baking soda, no water or medium. I first squeeze out the PVA into something disposable in an approximate amount that I'll need, and then slowly add the baking soda, mixing it in, until I get the consistency that I'm after. You can mix it thin, so that it will be super smooth when it hardens, or you can mix it chunky so that it clumps up and doesn't flatten out too much. Honestly it's a lot of trial and error at first. I use a toot
  6. To finish off the set, here is the Winter Wolf that accompanies the spear-wielding Frost Giant Raider. Custom base consisting of a wood plinth with a chunky cork board "stone", topped by the ever popular PVA+baking soda "snow". It was essentially a speed paint, though I'm happy with the eyes. I went with a 2" round base since Winter Wolves are considered large creatures, though this guy is really big for the base. I figured I would just stick with the standard sizing according to both Pathfinder and D&D 5E. Of course, the more I look at these close-up, the more I hate them, haha.
  7. As promised, updated with custom bases. The bases are 3" diameter, following along 5e making giants huge monsters (as they should be). The stone is actual bits of slate, painted to be a bit warmer than their natural color. The snow is the usual PVA+baking soda. I tried to give each of them disturbed snow behind, like a foot print or the like, to make them look less static. I did have to fill in with "snow" under their feet, but overall I'm happy with the outcome. As much as I like these, I feel like I've already learned so much while painting them, the next minis I paint shoul
  8. I used MSP for all of the paints involved, with the exception of some Hull Red by Vallejo in a few spots. Specifically for the quiver, I wanted to make it seem like it was a magic item, like an Efficient Quiver or the like. My intent was to have it look like polished color stained wood inlay. First, I drew in some wood grain lines using a micron pen. After that dried, I used MSP Clear Phthalo Blue only slightly diluted with water. The blue was translucent enough and dark enough that I didn't have to do anything else to it. That's it. Also, for both of these models, I started
  9. This is my first post here on the forums, but I've been a fan of Reaper for a while now. I've also been painting a while, but only got serious about learning in the last couple years. I've been working at tabletop ready level until I set my sights on these two frost giants. The detail is amazing in these models, so I felt like I had to throw myself into it and produce the best paint job I could. These are the very first pieces I've ever felt were worth considering entering into a competition of any sort. They are currently my best work, and yet I know that I have a long way to go with muc
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