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Posts posted by TKD

  1. I have heard Krylon dries faster. Since I tend to prime dozens of minis at a time, and I insist on letting all primers (*all* primers) dry at least 24 hours before handling the mini...it has never been an issue. It could dry in 5 minutes and I will still leave it overnight to dry. I never really needed to prime a mini and paint it the same day. I tend to production-line my minis - file when I feel like filing, then prime when I have a lot of minis to prime, then paint when I feel like painting.


    I have to try some Krylon and see if it goes on thinner, but Rustoleum goes on thin enough for me so far. No obscuring of details, no running, no "spotting" (unless you fail to shake the can), or anything like that.

  2. I use two different ways:


    1) Paint the weapons normally, then wash them with GW Flesh Wash or an orange wash.


    2) Paint the weapons normally, then lightly drybrush or higlight with orange.


    Either way, your weapons get a stained, grubby look. The second looks a little nicer, but the first method is faster. Depending how many skeletons you want done.

  3. I do not play D&D, so I really have no opinion on 3.0 vs. 3.5, but I do have an opinion on some of this discussion. I sympathize with the need to replace your game books if you want to keep current, but WOTC seems to be doing the right thing by offering  a web-based update. SJG did the same with in book form with GURPS Update, and that saved me buying a 3e rulebook for my 1e/2e campaign for a *long* time.


    First, the plethora of D20 products - quality is going to be mixed. It is inevitable, but the OGL means you can get a *lot* of support, often of high quality (Green Ronin, Necromancer Games, that new Chris Aylott book, etc.) The downside of a lot of support means a lot of products to pick and choose from. The other option is less support - you cannot magically sell only high-quality goods and have a broad license to allow people to produce support books at the same time.


    But you need to pick and choose. All GMs, in all systems, have to decide what fits and what does not fit. A player may come into my GURPS game saying "I want to run a halfling ninja!" and have me say "Sorry, no halflings, and ninja do not fit the game world. What else would you like instead?" That will not change with 3.5, and it certainly is true under 3.0 in any case (How many feats and prestige classes are there, anyway? Hundreds, at least? Every book has a few of each). The release of 3.5 is not going to stop a GM from needing to decide what fits. If that is hard on the players, so be it. If they are so compelled by something in a supplement that they must use it somewhere, they can GM a game. They may even want something you as the GM would have allowed if it was available at campaign start, but believe it would be unbalancing to add later. Again, so be it.


    3.0 vs. 3.5, whatever, you will always have to make choices as the GM what to use and what not to use. You even have the choice not to go for 3.5, if you like...


    As a player, you really have little choice but to persuade the GM to allow something and respect "no" if that is the answer. That was the case as long as I can remember.

  4. First off, yes, you are being ripped off. :)


    Let's see.


    I use Rustoleum Sandable White Primer ($2.37 a 12 oz can at AC Moore), Rustoleum Sandable Grey Primer (ditto), and a generic black automotive primer I get at Pep Boys (Cars like us, minis love us, 11 oz and around $3). I have heard good things about Krylon, but Rustoleum has always done well for me so I do not see a reason to "upgrade" to a new paint.


    I am very pleased with all three, and use different ones for different minis. Basically, I color-match. Lots of light and bright colors (for example, my 100+ pirates)? White. Lots of metallics and dark colors (orcs, knights, etc.)? Grey. Lots of dark recesses and ominous colors (critters, mostly)? Black.


    They work great. I tend to white-prime all of my vehicle minis, though, even the ones I want to hit with flat black spray paint as a base coat. I find it easier to be sure I am getting a good even layer that way.

  5. If your ink isn't that old then I highly recommend the ink extender, which is actually a flow-improver which aids in the thinning of your inks.

    The question is, how much? If I want to add ink extender, I feel like I may as well add it straight to the bottle (all 3/4 oz or 17 ml or whatever of it). How much is enough, and how much is too much?


    I find if I have to mix each time before I use something, I am less likely to use it at all.

  6. CMoN has popups? Ah, I love Mozilla.


    Anyway, I do not post on CMoN....the feedback seems lacking, I find the browsing to be difficult, and few of the articles have provided me anything of value. I get more out of these forums and a few other sites than I ever did out of CMoN, so I rarely go anymore.

  7. The new Kurf the Swift does not strike me as Mouser-like for some reason. The backward-facing dagger in his left hand is a pain, too - too much trouble to remove, and Mouser fought like a fencing, not like an icepick wielder.


    Still need to get closer looks at the other minis...online pictures just do not tell me the whole story. Besides, it would be more than awkward if the Mouser's mini was as tall as the Fafhrd mini. :)

  8. I was perusing my mini collection and realized that 2152 Fafnir of Kjord would make a pretty good Fafhrd, of Fritz Leiber's "swords" book series.


    So, all I need is a Grey Mouser. Any suggestions for a mini for him?

  9. Helps a lot, thanks. I just ended up ordering two of them; one I will probably use more-or-less as a beholder; the other is getting torn up for parts. The stalks I will save, the body will be the basis of an extra-planar critter I have been using in my games.


    Thanks again folks.

  10. Enchantra posted somewhere about how you can make your own inks; otherwise you could use a dark wash of paint (maybe a good Burnt Umber, or a mix of brown and black) instead.


    Oh, another thing is that I left the "headdress" of Tiki done as wood. You could easily paint the "teeth" around his head in various colors (purple, red, and green come to mind for me) to decorate him up.


    Sadly, I do not have a good camera to take a picture. I have tried a few shots, but they come out way too dark and blurry. All I have is a 3com Homeconnect webcam and a room with poor lighting for getting pictures. Sorry!

  11. You mean he is not called Tiki? I thought he was.


    I did him very simply and he came out well:


    1) Spray Prime White

    2) Basecoat with brown (Reaper Woodlands Brown should do, I used Apple Barrel Colors Nutmeg Brown).

    3) Brush with a heavy ink wash of brown (I used Reaper's wood shading ink, but GW's should work just as well)

    4) Lightly drybrush with a lighter brown (I used ABC Country Tan).

    5) Paint the obsidian on his macaiutl black.

    6) Paint the eyes red (I used ABC Cardinal Crimson)

    7) Seal flat

    8) Brush gloss on obsidian and on the eyes.


    All done....I finished his base with some grass-colored flock to match the Twig Blight minis I paired him with.

  12. Is there a good catalog-style gallery of unpainted Clan War minis? I see some on eBay that I might want, but the images are usually of the blistered minis, so I cannot check any detail to see if they are really what I want. The Clan War site seems lacking in this detail.


    Right now, I am especially interested in Bob Olley's goblin minis, but images of all of the Clan War minis would a nice thing.

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