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Posts posted by TKD

  1. I picked up a Cloak Fiend. I would have picked up another one if I knew it was only $2.99. I thought it was going to be $3.99 or more (it was literally just out of the box, sitting on the floor waiting to be displayed). I also spent $18 on Foundry's "Spirited Underdogs" Gladiator pack, but that's another story.
  2. Thanks folks!  DO either of you have some pics of these "Painted Black" minis?

    Yes, but neither really show well. On my minis page - link in my sig - the minis are the Grenadier Undead Ninja and the Ral Partha Swashbuckler. The first came out okay, picture-wise, but the shading just looks black. The second picture really sucks. :(


    I need a better camera. Maybe I'll just buy some film and borrow my sister's Canon A-1 and snap some real shots.

  3. 3) drybrush with deep, near black, charcoal grey, then lighten for the raised folds and go even lighter for the edges. This will simulate the wear and tear, making the mini look older. you may wish to add some browns or blues to the greys just for tones to look different.

    This, but with grey primer and drybrushed grey and brown, is how I did all of my Grenadier ninjas and on a swashbuckler for a player to use for her PC. It worked very well, especially on the Undead Ninja (who needed to look slightly tattered). It *looks* black, but my gamers comment that it really shows the highlights. They were very impressed when I explained what I did with the grey and brown, since they could not detect it as a distinct color.

  4. Let's see. I actually have three starts in miniatures painting.


    My first start was picking up some painted minis, goodness knows who made them, when I was just starting out in red-box D&D (Erol Otus cover, not your Elmore stuff) and then in AD&D. I had collected and played with Airfix 1/72 scale models and soldiers when I was even younger, so metal wizards was not a big change.


    Years later, while I was in junior high, I was given the Grenadier starter box that came with a bunch of monsters and I painted my first mini - a Drider (which I still have, albiet long-broken). My friends and I all did some painting and traded minis, so I ended up with a mixed bag of Grenadier minis and later some TSR minis. Then the paints ran out and I stopped painting but continued to collect minis. I moved on to buying miniatures, basing them, and playing with the bare lead the times we used minis.


    A couple years later I got another supply of paints - another starter kit, maybe from TSR - and did another batch of painting. That did not last long, either. I had too little money for paints and brushes on top of normal gaming materials and everything else I spent money on. So, more minis on occasion but few paint jobs.


    Fast forward until 1999. Still collecting minis, but not painting. I saw a mini gallery posted by a fellow Pyramid magazine subscriber and decided to ask about painting minis. I was certain that you did not need to blow $2.25 a bottle for 12 ml of paint, or buy $5 brushes to paint with, or anything like that. But I did not know where to start. Happily, I was guided to my nearest AC Moore looking for craft paints and on-sale brushes. I bought a bunch of paints, dug up my old painting guides and got started. My first minis in years were a couple of TSR female fighters (one with a kite shield and broken-off sword, another a druid with a big and ugly spear) and the Evil Commander from my Battlesystem boxed set. I started with very basic painting techniques and quickly moved on to more advanced ones. Although occasionally I go back to very basic techniques just as a refresher and to bang out some of my really old and otherwise  never to be painted lead.


    Now I paint regularly, and have been since 1999. I noticed a dramatic improvement in my painting - my best stuff from my junior high days was better than my first paint jobs in 1999, but my painting now is superior to what I was doing only a year or two ago. The trick, I found, is to just paint a lot. :)

  5. Am I the only one here who wasn't really all that impressed by Mr. Do'Urden?

    Dude! He's so kewl!


    Actually, I never read any of the books, so my only encounters with him were in Baldur's Gate before I got annoyed at the game and sold it, and a writeup in a Forgotten Realms supplement. I think my first thought was "Two kewl swords and a magic item friend? How lame!" and that has not yet changed.


    He still fits my ideal of the perfect munchkin character - "I'm a renegade from a totally cool and evil race, but I'm nothing like them at all except in cool powers and having their cool stuff, and I have two swords anna magic panther and I can cast spells and kill everyone who messes with me and I'm like really high level and stuff!"


    That even beats "I'm a renegade ninja, being hunted by my clan!" as a hackneyed and instantly rejected character background.

  6. I saw on a website somewhere, that if you mix Future Floor Wax with your Ink, you end up with somehting known as "Magic Mix".

    Yes, Magic Wash. It works nicely. I do not always do it, since it gives a different "wash" than I want sometimes, but it is a useful and effective technique.


    It does need to be Future, either - any acrylic floor wash will do. I use some generic no-name brand stuff that also gets used on my floors. Go figure.


    Here is the place I found the description of the technique:


  7. Weather affects primer a *lot*. I typically primer outside, on nice, dry and balmy days. Wind is not typically a problem - I either primer in a corner area shielded from direct wind and shielded from heavy swirls or I put the minis in a 12-can soda box with one side cut off. The soda box creates a nice "primer box" effect, where the primer swirls around the minis and does not blow off.


    Either way, I avoid very windy days, humid days, and very cold days. I primer outside, then let the minis dry inside (in that box) to avoid getting spiderwebs, pollen, and whatever blown onto them.


    And oh yeah, I'm the Rustoleum fan. Woohoo, cheap primer! Beats brushing on Polly-S primer like I did when I painted as a kid.

  8. I could totally use that as a centerpiece to a diorama! and I said it earlier, my gaming group needs to get away from European analogs.

    Armorcast makes Easter Island heads. I know, because I bought 3 of them. Actually, they make 3 different heads, but I needed an identical trio for my current RPG campaign so I ordered a custom set straight from Armorcast. $24 + $6 S&H meant $10/head, but they are worth it.

  9. And, I tend to use white as I think it's easier to see the details of the figures with the lighter color.

    Heck, I now file down mold lines and trim flash once, then spray primer the minis with white to highlight any mold lines I may have missed in my quest to rid the mini of them. Then I re-file and re-primer.


    It helps to go light on the first primer coat if you do this.

  10. I prime white. Then I take my black paint, water it down a little (1:1), and put it in all the cracks and crevices, as well as shadows.

    Nice tip. I like it. I do it already, sort of. I tend to blackwash minis - I like dirty, nasty-looking folks when I paint. So, I started to blackwash my freshly-primered minis to bring out the details when I paint. What I have not done is deliberately use it to cover the white primer in the cracks and crevices. I will be trying that next, before I paint up all of those Bakarathi I just bought.

  11. OK, let's start more shop-talk:


    Primers, my personal fav: Krylon White Spray Primer. It goes on thin, it drys amazingly quick, and from white, I can paint any color.

    I use Rustoleum. Nice Primer, comes in Grey or White, and costs $2.27 at AC Moore.


    Actually, I am tending to spray everything white. I went into "Grey Primer mode" for a while, but I am finding I am getting better results faster by white primering. Even my orcs, painted in Reaper Troll Flesh and a lot of blacks and greys (Anita metallic black, Appel Barrel black, and Anita Charcoal), were easier to do primered white than primered grey.

  12. Hey all-


    What's good for sealing/ protecting the paint on minis?  I've been using GW dull coat, but I'm tired of the inconsitant results with this product.


    What do you guys use?



    I personally use Testor's Dullcote and Testor's Gloss Coat. I have never had a problem with consistancy, quality, or especially, the cost.


    I use one of two methods:

        - one coat of gloss followed by two coats of dullcote

        - three coats of dullcote


    I am not sure which one I like better, yet. The dull-over-gloss seems to hold up better, but it is a bit more shiny than the dullcote only finish.

  13. What I would like to see is another version of 2466, the Carnivorous Ape, in a different pose. A bent-over ape resting on one knuckle, or another raging ape with a hapless victim would be nice. It is my favorite Reaper mini.


    I bought and painted a pair of these so far. An additional pose would be helpful so I can really get a nice army of apes together without having to customize each one to get some differences.

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