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TKD

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by TKD

  1. No reason you can't laminate scale red. Looks nice.

     

    Personally, I go with checkerboard scale occasionally - alterating steel and bronze. I know they historically edged some armors with bronze scales or rings because, well, it looked cool. It sure does on the minis. I'd post one, but I'm a few thousand miles from my minis these days and I've got a 3x zoom.

  2. You can get away with just Dullcote. I don't because the cost of one of them little cans of Dullcote is as much as a big-butt can of Rustoleum spray sealer (aka gloss coat). So it's an economy measure for me. But I have done it with just dullcote.

     

    I still get some chipping with my combination of dullcote over gloss, and with the dullcote over dullcote, but my minis are playing pieces. Some of them have been dropped, had glasses tipped over on them, got whacked off the table by a wildly gesticulating player, etc. or just dropped by me when I was moving them around. I'm not sure even Anne's 15 layers of dullcote will save your minis from a gamer.

  3. But I guess if you start out with water you'll get faster used to it.

    I guess so. I've only used water, and it works perfectly well for me. You just have to dip the tools often and dip the greenstuff often. But it's free and it doesn't involve sticking sharp tools near my tongue.

     

    So maybe saliva is "better" but it has downsides water does not...and it still gets me results.

  4. I invert the slotta base, cut out the slot tabs with an exacto knife, and mount the mini inside the slotta base with super glue. I fill in the area around the mini with green stuff, or with coarse pumice gel, or air-dry clay. If the mini is short - like an old 25mm as opposed to the 28mm-30mm figures you find these days - I don't cut the slot tabs out, I just mount it on top, gluing the mini both to the top of the tabs and to the pumice gel or green stuff.

     

    This way, the mini has a stable base, even when we put it on a die to represent height (for flying or levitating critters or people), or put it on a terrain piece. They also take up a slightly smaller footprint, which is handy when I need to put them on stairs or tables or whatever, which are often (when in scale) too small to support a slotta-base without tipping the mini over.

  5. I like my skeletons white; it's rare the skeletal warriors in my games are old bones, or just dug out of the dirt, or anything like that. They are usually dedicated tomb guards lurking in ancient tombs, carefully selected (and cared for) elite guards of necromancers, and so on. The most recent were pirates who had been turned into zombies and then eaten down to the bones by crabs and bleached by sun, salt water, and sand.

     

    So I've been doing skeletons this way:

     

    1 - Prime White

     

    2 - Wash with GW Flesh Wash - slop it on until they are orange.

     

    3 - Basecoat with off-white (I use ABC Antique White).

     

    4 - Highlight up with a lighter white (I use Anita's Eggshell White)

     

    5 - Wash with a thin, watery black wash.

     

    6 - Highlight with white (I use ABC White or Reaper Pro Paint White) on the very edges of bones, eye sockets, joints, etc.

     

    7 - finish non-bone details (armor, weapons, etc.)

     

    The result are white, sharp-looking skeletons with just enough orange-y and dirty "grit" around the bones, ribs, etc. for them to stand out.

     

    Mind you, I'm not making presentation pieces, I'm making game pieces. But they still look nicely sharp and attractive. I show off my skeletons when people ask to see my best stuff.

     

    Peter

  6. I'm going to be putting my paints into storage soon. I was debating using a big vacuum-sealed bag, and then storing them in a cool, dry, dark place.

     

    Of course, I'm storing them for 1+ years, which isn't the same thing I think you are worried about...

     

    Peter

  7. The company is Zvezda...

     

    Damon.

    That's the one!!!

    Hmm...found their website, but no pictures - just a snapshot image of what I presume is the cover of the box. Where do you see the contents, and where do you get them?

     

    I'm wondering if I should get those Rakham Ragnarok zombies....oh, probably fodder for another thread.

  8. I love historicals, but lots of companies do historical minis.

     

    Fantasy-themed versions of historicals are much cooler to me. Roman War Wizards, Viking priests casting spells, a half-naked German with a sword in one hand and a rune-encrusted short staff in the other, stuff like that.

     

    That kind of stuff is hard to find. I can buy a hundred regular Romans, Germans, Spartans, Sassanids, etc. tomorrow, but finding a Zombie Roman or a Spartan Wizard isn't exactly easy.

     

     

    Speaking of Zombies, I'd like to see more of them. Not gothic peasants, but the kind your PCs make with the Zombie spell (GURPS) or a D&D-style Animate Dead. Guys freshly dead, festooned with weapons and still leaking gore.

  9. Oh yeah, speaking of making casualties, here is one I made custom to fix a mini.

     

    The is a Hundred Kingdoms "Giant Gor." While the expoy on his supporting arm was drying, he fell over on his left (extended arm) side. The arm glued at an angle, and thus he couldn't stand up correctly.

     

    So I cut down an old TSR wizard mini I didn't like - one of the many TSR guys I have from my first foray into painting back in 1983-4. I cut off his base, faced him down on the base, and placed the Gor mashing him into the ground. Result - cool base, and a stable Giant Gor.

     

    Gor

    gor.jpg

     

    Gor Victim

    gorvictim.jpg

     

    Closeup of Gor Victim

    gorvictimclose.jpg

     

    Sorry for the image quality, I'm still working on finding a good shooting location for these types of pictures.

  10. Foundry puts out some casualties as well. I have a few of their Hundred Years War line, and I know they put out pirate casualties as well. You have to buy by the pack, but it's only $18 US for 5-6 minis (or 3 cavalry + horses). They have casualties for all of their lines.

     

    Here are the pirates, and here are the Hundred Years War.

     

    Foundry makes nice minis - I've got dozens of their pirates, Street Violence thugs and cops, and a mixed bag of their older HYW line. It's high-quality stuff, on par with Reaper in production quality and cleanliness. I've never been disappointed with their stuff. Finding it can be a pain, though - it's easier to order directly from them in the UK or scrounge on eBay than to find them in a store around here.

     

    I make my own base casualties by sawing down old battered minis that just can't hack it as playing pieces anymore. Cut off the base, lop off and arm or gouge in a wound with an x-acto, and you're golden...

  11. Ergo, automotive primer is very good quality. Easy to find in most respectable auto parts stores.

    Auto primer is also *cheap*. Like $2-3 bucks for an 11 or 12 oz can cheap. Apparantly, you need a *lot* of spray-on primer when you are touching up your car. :)

     

    Plus it works well on minis, for sure, as long as you've cleaned the mini and follow Chogokin's three points.

  12. I'm parsimonious with my toner, since it's $95/catridge to replace.

     

    Upon further experimentation and "focus group testing" (I should another mini with a name to my players), the black-on-white labels are considered eye-catching and easy to read. Since my minis are gaming pieces, these two are paramount.

     

    I also found that elmer's glue is superior to superglue for gluing down printer paper. I used a small amount, stuck on the label, and then gloss-coated it by hand. No stippling or bleed-through like with the superglue. After basing and final spray coats, the names are clearly readable and show no sign of flaking or tearing off.

     

    I'll still give the avery labels a go when I get a chance - I'd like to save a step. But the adjustability with wet glue is nice when I don't quite get it on straight...

  13. Eh....once you have hands sculpted onto the weapon, you've got limited ability to interchange them - the position of the grip determines how to face it, and handedness as well. Unless the arms are also sculpted on, of course, and then you've got to match them to the torso. Open hand is easy to put a weapon in, and I find epoxy secure enough when when my fierced mini-breaking gamers come along.

     

    Honestly, having dealt with "hands sculpted on the weapons" and "open hands" I prefer the latter. I'd rather have the weapons cast right on a one-piece mini instead of the first - it takes just as much work for me to modify the mini and I can make it just as secure.

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