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TKD

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by TKD

  1. It's a bit distracting to have a mini out on the table that's lunging forward or twisting wildly, or wearing a huge billowing cloak.

    Seconded. It's not just distracting, but those lunging/twisting/one-legged leaping types are hard to move around a crowded 25mm battlemat. Get into a nasty packed fight and you get figures locking together.

     

    So the occasional guy standing with sword tip down "at rest" is handy to have...

  2. Multiple sculpts of the same "guy" are great, I can use them as multiple people in my games.

     

    I don't mind multipart minis, but I do prefer single-piece unless I can actually pose mini differently...I like posing and building minis, not just assembling them.

     

    One of the best "multipart" packs I ever got was the old TSR Dwarves pack with 3 dwarves. They had poses for shields and open hands for weapons, and came with 3 shields and 3 weapons. Nice. I ditched most of them, and glued in shields from Reaper weapon packs, other TSR sets, a sword from some obscure company's weapon packs, weapons from my various Warhammer boxed sets (I love customizable plastic minis), and so on. I ended up with 3 each of these packs - 3 different versions of each guy. Hammers, swords, flails, crossbows, extra packs, shields from everywhere...they came out great.

     

    So if Reaper wants to do me any favors, minis with open hands and loose weapons are great. I'll mount in the weapon I need from a weapon pack. It's easier than sawing, pinning, and sculpting fingers, and allows for quick customization of grunts.

  3. Back to the issue... Ammonia etches the metal so paint sticks better, right?  Vinegar does the same thing?  Is it beneficial to clean minis with on of these chemical prior to priming?

    I have often been told to wash my minis with vinegar before priming them. I don't always do it (I'm lazy), but there you have it. I suspect it works well to clean the mini, regardless of its lead-rot prevention abilities.

     

    Hmmmm....I wonder what kind of vinegar works best. Rice? Red wine? White wine? Red wine garlic vinegar? Balsamic? :P

  4. Okay, I gave a shot to printing names on my 10-point Bold type, 20# paper. I then glued this to the base with GW Superglue and then painted over it with a stripe of Plaid brush-on gloss sealant.

     

    I did three test minis.

     

    Good points: Easy to do. Really easy. No stickers, no adjustments, no nothing. I used the paper in my printer, typed, hit "print" and went to town. Glueing was easy. Names are easily readable from a short distance away.

     

    Bad points: One mini (the one on the left) had way too much glue. The ink ran and the name smeared and became unreadable. The others got a little "stippling" of glue showing through. It works, but it isn't as cleanly presentable as stickers probably would be. The more glue I used, the easier it was to apply them but the more "stippling" came through. I need to be extremely careful in paint amounts with standard paper.

     

    Lesson learn: Next time, I'm trying stickers. I have a sheet of larger Avery stickers. I'll cram a bunch of names on one sticker and cut them down to size. Gloss-finish over this should be enough to keep it stuck to the mini, especially after the final flat coat.

     

    base1.jpg

     

    base2.jpg

     

    So far, so good. We'll see how well they stand up when I add flocking to the top of the base.

  5. Thanks for all the suggestions.

     

    I'll ask and see if anyone has an older labelmaker I can borrow - I used to use a Brother P-Touch to label cables (yes, I'm an ex-IT guy). That could be the best solution.

     

    Unfortunately, black paper and a color printer looks to be out for the time being. Maybe later, but right now I don't have easy access to one. "Cheap" is better than "Ideal way to label."

     

    Airhead - that's a nice idea, but that means I only get 26 names. ::o: Seriously, I'm not concerned about keeping track - "Grukh" and "Torg" are fine. I find my players are okay with names. I'm just concerned I'm going to trash my minis applying them. :)

     

    I'll try a few name transfers in the next few days and post the results. I have a dozen undead dwarves - all identical - that a friend bought me as a gift. I'll print a few names out on my laser printer, try gluing them on with superglue, and see what happens. Worst comes to worst, I can re-black the base and try something else.

     

    Peter

  6. Coating my minis has kept them better than merely painting them. My 20+ year old lead minis that I coated way back when still have paint on them after 20+ years of people touching them. Those that didn't are long gone now.

     

    My "mix" is gloss-dry-dullcote. For "gloss" I use some supposedly flat coat sealers - like Armoury, which is shiney when dry, or the much-cheaper-but-still-great Rustoleum I get at AC Moore. I also use Testor's Gloss coat. My final dullcote is always Testor's Dullcote. It is so flat I have to remember which minis I coated with it.

     

    Sealing is worth the effort, unless you plan a showpiece mini you are keeping sealed under glass from the time you finish painting. It takes hours to paint, minutes to seal, and seconds to drop the sucker and chip the paint.

  7. A mix of numbers and letters doesn't work for me...you end up with S-13 (Skeleton 13) and S-13 (Swordsman 13) and S-13 (Snake 13) on the board....so when you write up a sheet of NPCs, you need to add additional notation to the notations. Since I run a game for 7 PCs and our last fight had just under 150 combatants on the hex map at the same time, this isn't a small concern.

     

    I know names will work. We use counters with names all of the time - mostly from my Cry Havoc-series games. That's why I decided on names - the players will love them on minis since they clearly love them already on

     

    Flags are a cool idea, but I suspect the drilling, flag-making, and implanting will be more work-intensive than naming them.

     

    Decals would rock...they must have kits somewhere. But for names printing on clear transfer stock is going to cost more money than digging out a piece of 20-weight paper from my stack is. But it's a cool idea.

     

    So I'm still here with names and poor handwriting. Writing them with a white micron pen isn't a bad idea, but I've never seen one of them. Do they have them? I black-edge all of my bases, which are mostly inverted GW slotta-bases, so white lettering is okay (as is black on a white stripe).

     

    Printing white-on-black is cool, but I don't have a color printer or easy access to one.

     

    Does my paper glueing plan sound okay, though? I'm convinced that will be readable, if it doesn't smear or tear in the process.

     

    Peter

  8. I'd like to put clearly-readable names on the slotta-bases of my miniatures, clearly readable from above.

     

    Here's the situation. I've got a lot of identical minis I use for large numbers of critters in my games. I want to clearly identify them with markings.

     

    Numbering isn't so fun - you only use, say, the 12th guy when you have 12+ identical minis in the same fight. I'd also like to name them because they get a bit more personality that way - you didn't waste Orc 3 or Dwarf 6, you wasted Grukh Nosepicker or Turik Axeforge.

     

    Coloring isn't so fun, either - to make them distinct, I'd need very noticable colors. I can't do that to infinity like names. Plus, I'd have to said "The guy with the green loincloth" and people might need to handle the mini to identify which one. A name clears up which guy it is in a snap.

     

    What kind of suggestions do people have? I've got a few, and I'm not sure if any of them will work.

     

    - writing the name with paint, probably white - hard to do, my handwriting isn't so good with a brush.

     

    - writing the name with some kind of pen on a painted white strip. Again, handwriting might be an issue.

     

    My "good" idea:

     

    - printing the name in 10 or 12 point font on my PC, cutting out the name, and glueing it down to the base, then gloss-coating it by hand. Not sure if this will work well, or if I'm looking at smeared laser printer ink, torn paper, and unreadable names. I figure the paper can be glued down after I gloss-coat the mini using CA glue, finish over the paper with glosscote by hand, and then I can spray on the Testor's Dullcote.

     

    Any better ideas or methods would be most appreciated!

  9. I paint whenever I feel like it. :)

     

    I tend to paint at night. Lately this means between 10-11 pm, usually for about 40 minutes. I turn on some music or pop in a language cassette and get to work. I try to paint at least twice a week, but I only paint when I'm in the mood. I will never "force" myself to sit down and paint.

     

    I tend to do prep work other times of the day - initial mounting to bases, flash removal, filing, glueing, pinning, priming, sealing, etc. happens during the day, around 10-11 am.

     

    I am a firm believe that practice makes perfect, so I try to keep my hand in even when I've feeling a bit off. I keep my rinse jars full of water 24/7, so when the mood strikes me I can sit down and bang out some work without any preparation.

  10. (NOTE THESE ARE *NOT* THE MINIS MENTIONED IN THE FIRST POST)

    3rd row down, 2nd mini in is one of my *favorite* minis of all time. I need to find me one of that guy for myself.

     

    I have that Grim Reaper from the bottom row partly painted up. He made an appearance in one of my game sessions as a lich.

  11. I agree, last time I went to my FLGS, I was going to get several minis, but when I looked at the cost and considered that I have 200+ unpainted minis at home, I put them all back. I have NEVER before walked out of my FLGS without atleast one miniature.

    Yeah, that's exactly where I am. Saying that I could have more expensive hobbies doesn't change the fact that this one has gotten more expensive. Saying I could have spent that money on 1/35th scale models or NASCAR or beer doesn't do much for me. It's like saying "I'm taking up smoking...okay, now I quit, I've saved hundreds of dollars!"

     

    The price hike may make perfect sense due to the demands of the market, material costs, and so on...but it does not agree with my wallet. So I am buying less minis. I have seen minis I would have a hard time passing up in the past and walked away from them because the sticker price is too high.

     

    As for the GW codex price hike, I know paper/printing costs have been steadily escalating over the years. Look at the prices of RPG books and even paperbacks for that.

  12. They're really nice, but there is no way I am paying six bucks for an orc. An ogre maybe, but not an orc.

    It's rough. I want those two guys, but they're too damn expensive. I just bought a blister pack of minis with 6 guys in it for $18....that's more like it.

     

    I understand the price increase, but it does mean I'm buying a lot less minis lately. I don't think anyone wins. Sigh.

  13. I pretty have the same order every time:

     

    - mount the mini in its final base

    - paint the base black (most bases) or brown (wood-grain bases) as a basecoat.

    - basecoat the mini

    - section by section blending, re-painting, detailing, etc.

    - any washes

    - finish details

     

    I tend to do the skin first, then work outwards with clothing. However, that is not always the case. That usually is just the easiest way to progess. If I have a mini that is almost all one color - ninjas, armored knights, etc. I will often do the skin, the the wide areas, then work on small details such as bits of clothing sticking out or gear.

     

    I almost always do weapons last so I can hold on to them if I need to turn the mini.

     

    The only real exception to this pattern is if I want to "try" a color to see if it will work on the mini. In that case, I basecoat whatever it is I am testing the color on.

  14. Testor's dullcote makes even my ink-glazed stuff look dead flat.

    That's why people use it.

     

    Well, yes, that is why I use it. But that doesn't mean I want everything to be flat on a mini. So I use some Plaid/Folk Art "Outdoor Gloss Sealer" to brush onto things I want to shine - the eyes of predators, gemstones, the occasional piece of jewelry or glimmering material.

     

    I was just saying you can ignore the "gloss" effect of inks if you are going to matte seal it with Testor's Dullcote. If you want them back, I highly recommend the brush-on stuff I mentioned above.

  15. Not really. Ink formulation has never been aimed at obtaining a matte finish. Although, by diluting it with water, you can effectively kill the shine

    You can also brush on - or spray on - matte sealer. In order to get glossy finishes, I usually put on glossy or satin finish after I seal. Testor's dullcote makes even my ink-glazed stuff look dead flat.

     

    Plaid makes some brush-on sealer, I'll dig around when I get a chance and post what I use.

  16. Glen Cook's "The Black Company" series. It isn't Tolkein - it's epic, but it is gritty - no elven songs and hobbit holes. But it is excellent. The whole series is worthwhile, including the one side story he did called The Silver Spike.

     

    All of his stuff is good, but The Black Company and the Garrett PI books are some of the best fantasy you can find.

     

    Start with The Black Company and with Sweet Silver Blues and you'll know if you want to read more.

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