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Posts posted by TKD

  1. The lady almost handed me the display brush to purchase, but I told her I was looking for pointy tips. ::D:

    Heh. When I bought my size 0, the tip was completely fuzzed out. It looked awful. The manager of the store took the top off, smoothed it out with his fingers, and bam...perfect tip.


    And IIRC, mine was the display model.

  2. I'll be too scared of damaging a 15 bucks brush and probably will not use it. Kinda kills the purpose. Though I have to admit I'm tempted.

    Seriously, go for it. I use my W&N Series 7 Size 0 for about 90% of my painting. I own about 20 brushes, but that one is my workhorse. Care for it well and you will have no problems.


    That applies to *any* brush, no matter how cheap (trust me, I use a lot of cheap brushes), but especially so on the W&N. They are sturdy, high-quality materials and they respond well to the cleaning method I use - a swoosh around in my W&N Brush Cleaner and Restorer, a swoosh in the water, soaped up in the Master's Brush Cleaner Soap and rinsed again; I repeat a second time when I've done heavy work. So far, no discoloration on the brush and it returns to a perfect point every time.

  3. Heheheh, no, Gauth is still in mold line removal and prep. I had a big project come up, and a big need for pirates. But he's in a the queue. Hopefully I can get him assembled and primed soon.


    I'm thinking of doing T'raukzul in a dark, dark green and Gauth in a metallic color. Not sure which one yet.

  4. ixminis - thanks, that helps a lot.


    And that Heresy spider looks really cool. But for *really* big spiders, children's toys and Halloween props are probably better.


    Take that from someone who is planning on using a McFarlane King Kong as a "miniature."

  5. Mostly, I listen to language instruction tapes. I listen further back in the course so it is just review. The tapes are 30 minutes, so it is easy to time how long I spend painting.


    Otherwise, it varies wildly. Two nights ago I was listening to Dirt Bike Annie and the Kowalskis. The time before that, it was Ennio Morricone's soundtrack to "A Fistful of Dollars." Often I have the TV on - interviews are good, so are Futurama repeats.

  6. Now that I think about it, I have trouble painting more than one area at a time on the same mini, so, I'm not one to be painting several models at any given time. ::(:

    Bah! <waves hands dismissively> Bah!


    I've seen your minis. Working one section at a time must have its merits.


    Of course, not handing your minis over to my gamers* probably makes that effort worthwhile. :)



    * Table motto: "Oops."

  7. For the pinning, I also frequently clip safety pins rather than use wire. When clipping the pin, be careful, they have the annoying habit of going flying, blending into the carpet and lurking until you come back into the room with bare feet.


    I use actual pins. The previous owner of the house used to do some tailoring, so we picked scores of them out of the carpet. I kept them and clip them.


    To clip them safetly, try this - hold the clippers and wire/pin/safety pin together in a clear plastic bag. Loosely close the end around your clipping hand and clip away. Even if the pieces go flying, they collect in the bag.

  8. Cool, lots of replies.


    I don't really do armies - at least, I do not play many miniature battle games other than Ogre. I do lots of individual figures, and even my "unit" minis tend to be customized enough that I can use them as individuals in an RPG.


    I always wonder how people do one mini at a time. I used to do it, but it involved so much waiting between paint layers and careful attention. I find all of my work is better if I set it aside for a day or so and come back to it before I pronounce it done. Doing a single mini would mean I never really "let go" of the nearly-finished model so I can take a fresh look and see if it needs another touch of paint here or there. With 6-8 minis in active progress (not shunted aside as "Ah, I can't think of a good color to go with that, I'll finish it eventually") I feel like I make good progress and still get to give each mini the time I need to really consider it and ensure I like what I did.



    As for minis ready to go, well - I keep a huge amount of minis primed - 300 was an estimate, not an exaggeration. At one point, I had 70+ pirates primed and ready, 24 Empire Militia, 19 Empire Soldiers, 20 Pantera Jaguar Warriors, 50 orcs (now down to 25 or so), 16 Chaos Warriors, 16 Chaos Marauders, 10 mummies, four giants, two dozen simians, a dragon, 11 shambling mounds, 6 cultists, 15 pygmies, two trolls, 20 dwarves, 10 knights, 9 mounted knights, (mumble mumble mumble) Ogres and Ogre vehicles, plus about 50-60 other minis. Plus terrain. None of these have any paint on them except possibly the black coat I add to the bases before I start. Add in about 40-50 partly painted minis and you've got my ready-to-paint minis.


    Maybe working on that number one at a time just seems too crazy to contemplate. :)

  9. In another thread, FuzzyIzmit said:

    I am the exact opposite (at least when I paint figures). I sit down after I prime a whole mess of them and do them one by one, only starting the next one once the preveous one is finished.


    I have been meaning to ask this - how many figures do people having in process at the same time?


    By "in process", I mean being actively painted. If you've got 300 minis primed but they just sit there waiting (like me) I would not count them. I'm wondering how many minis you typically switch back and forth between during a given painting session.


    I usually have about 6-8 minis in a partially painted condition, and as I finish a mini a rotate another one into the mix and start on it. Not since I first started have I done only one mini at a time.


    I work on one mini, then I swap to another while the first is drying, rotating through fairly randomly. I tend to mix easy and fun minis (like my orcs and pirates) with ones that take a bit more work (like detailed characters), so I can vary my concentration a bit during the session.

  10.   I hate trying to do *realistic* fur. I want to just drybrush it brown or gray and get it done with, instead of trying to match the look of an animal's pelt.


    I like fur, but frankly I have an el-cheapo method I used for my apes:


    Spray Prime - I use white or grey, never tried with with black, not sure it will work.


    Wash with Brown Ink - don't dilute it, just soak it right on. Let it dry.


    Blackwash - I use black and water, in the "painty water" mix rather than "watery paint." Let it dry.


    Drybrush or wetbrush on some highlights. For brownish apes, I use light brown or tan. For black ones, I use a medium grey.




    So, for my apes, I did this:

    Prime Grey

    Brown ink


    Drybrush on some dark brown

    Drybrush on some off white on the shoulders of the "alpha male"


    For lighter colored apes, I did the same but used white primer. These guys don't look like your painting contest dire wolves with carefully wet-blended fur, but they look pretty good and are done quickly. I'm doing my Simians for 100 Kingdoms this way right now.



  11. Minis: Orcs, pirates, and guys head to toe in armor. I find all of them easy to paint.


    Details: Jewelry is fun, since I can break out my odd metallics like Pearl White and Metallic Peridot and go to town.


    Best part of doing a mini is flocking the base and sealing. That way it's done, and you can move on to the next in the endless pile of primed and ready metal...

  12. I'll agree with Lars Poresenna - Horses. Man, I hate painting horses.


    Other than horses, I really hate concealed details. Undersides of capes, handles of swords flush up against the body, tiny little details you're barely going to see but that stick out if you don't take the time to do them.


    I guess I just like moderately detailed minis - a few nice details, but not so many that it takes hours to do one mini.

  13. I use Apple Barrel paints and I have no problems with them. I also use some Vallejo Model Colors, Anita's, Folk Art, Reaper, and Citadel products for painting. Out of all of these, only the Anitas have given me any real trouble.

  14. After a long layover for the winter (and while I was doing lots of time consuming work) I pulled out my paints from storage. Lo and behold, some of my Reaper inks dried up into a thick gooey mass in the jars. The other inks are fine, and I can see no signs of leaks or splits or loose caps (far from it, actually - my blue ink was almost brand new, I put it away a week after I bought it).


    So my question is - can I revive this thick sludge into working ink, or should I just replace the ink?

  15. However I use the foundry paints which come in sets of 3 (shade,base,highlight) and the shades almost always cover black in a single coat and always in 2 coats. (Yes even the yellow does)

    Hmmm...might need to look into getting their yellow set, then. None of the yellow paints I have used have covered black especially well.

  16. I use Testor's "Model Master" Laquer Overcoat - Lusterless (Flat). It comes in a  3 oz spray can #1960. It is usually with the other, small, Testor's spray paints. AC Moore and model train stores by me carry this.


    I am not sure but I think the stuff in the cans marked 1260 is identical, but I've got enough spare of the 1960 stuff to not need to check just yet. :)

  17. You haven't had any problems with unpinned minis breaking over time?  I'm surprised.

    My big minis have no problems with breakage despite a lack of pinning. Most of them have big sockets and big pegs to fit in the sockets. A piece of wire isn't going to do much to help if something mounted with a 1 cm intergal peg isn't enough.


    With small minis, especially weapons, I pin like crazy. With mid-sized joints, I pin if it seems useful (i.e. like the piece to be pinned will be subject to stress or shear). I pin because there is little strength to the join, unlike the big pieces.


    The "Big" minis I have done without pinning include T'raukzul, a Giant Scorpion, my Hundred Kingdoms Giant Gor, a GW Demon of Nurgle (big guy, but big joins that take glue well), and a lot of SJG Ogres (two each of III, IV, V, VI, and one Fencer and one III-B). Some are epoxy, the rest are green stuff used basically as glue (it works fine - fill it in, squeeze in the parts, and trim the extra - and texture the gap).


    No breakage yet, although I have yet to deliberately drop any to see if they'll hold up - all of those minis are painted or have delicate parts that will suffer terribly in a test.

  18. @TKD: My T'raukzul was a (relatively) tight fit all over.

    Okay, so mine might just have shallow sockets or long pegs on the wings. Everything else fit fairly snugly.


    I just cut 3-4mm off each wing's peg and they fit very nicely now - flush against the body on top and bottom. Excellent. Thanks.

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