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TKD

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by TKD

  1. While you're saving yourself time, you're not really doing yourself any favors.

    It isn't time I am worried about with pinning. Pinning is not the issue - it is posts of the wings. If they are shorter, will the wings fit flush? If so, I'll cut them. If not, I'll leave them and fill the gaps myself.

     

    Green Stuff and no pinning works fine for big minis for me, it is just a question of how much. Right now, it looks like I'm going to need a *lot* for T'raukzul's wings.

  2. Attention, folks who have built T'raukzul.

     

    Is it just mine, or do his wings fit very loosely in the sockets? Mine fit either flush agains the body on top, or on the bottom, but not both. I'm trying to figure out if trimming some of the post will help this before I "glue" it in.* I do not want to cut the posts short if this is not going to help, as I want to avoid pinning the mini if I can help it.

     

     

    * I assemble my big minis purely with greenstuff as the glue. Works great, and saves me a step of glueing and then greenstuffing the cracks.

  3. - When snipping wire, put both the wire and clippers in a plastic bag. The piece you cut off will fall in the bag, saving you from looking for it. Also avoid wire from snapping into your eyes or face.

     

    - keep two different rinsing jars of water. Use one to rinse paint/ink off, the other to wet your brush again after you clean it. This ensures you get every last drop of paint off without re-contaminating the brush (especially bad if you are going from metallics to non-metallics) and gives you a ready supply of clean water to mix washes or clean up mistakes.

     

    - emery boards make great miniature files. Cheap, disposable, and you can cut them into specific shapes for a specific mini.

  4. I use them according to the colors I eventually plan on putting on the mini.

     

    Here is what I use and examples of what I use them on.

     

    White - Rustoleum Sandable White Primer. I use this a lot on pirates (lots of bright colors and exposed skin), cantily clad figures, noblemen, skeletons, and so on. Basically, anyone with light colors predominating. It is also my "default" color if I am not sure ultimately what I plan to do with a mini. Some Reapers I have primed white include Mossbeard and his druid (who I did green, as a dryad), Razig the Undead Pirate (the Warlord one), the Devourer of Mashaf (exposed "brains"), and Kazala the Efreet. I prefer to do "wooden" terrain pieces (like wagons, barrels, buckets) in white primer.

     

    Grey - Rustoleum Sandable Grey Primer. I use this for my orcs (I paint them with Pro Paints Troll Flesh and lots of metallics and dark wood colors), almost all knights (lots of metallic armor), zombies, and most dwarves (dusky skin, metallic armor). Examples of Reapers I have primed grey include practically every single DHL orc, Boris Mingla, and my Carnivorous Apes.

     

    Black - Vintage Sandable Automotive Primer or Vintage Fast Drying Primer. I use black if the mini is going to be nearly or primarily black. I use it for vampires (although I paint their skin light, everything else tends to black-on-black), ninjas, trolls - and especially terrain such as buildings and ruins, and vehicles (even those I'm painting light colors, actually - I spray-basecoat most vehicles, even 1/285 and 1/300 scale ones). I plan to prime my T'raukzul in black since I plan to paint him very, very dark green.

     

    I find that metallics go best over grey since I use greyish metallics. Since the primer is the same color, I can apply it very thinly to get the same effect as a series of coats on white would get. I find black hard to cover with flesh colors and light colors, either heavily thinned or relatively thick*. I use white as my "not sure" basecoat because ultimately I can paint a white-primed mini any color. I use grey and black primer as shortcuts for minis that will use those colors primarily - thus making it easier to basecoat them by reducing the number of layers I need to get the effect I want.

     

     

    * I have been told Reaper Pro Paints and Vallejo will cover black primer in one coat even with white paint, but my experience has been contrary to that. YMMV, etc.

  5. my primer is something like Home Essentials or somesuch.

    Hmm...I've used Vintage (automotive primer, my black primer of choice), Rustoleum Sandable Primer (white, grey), and Krylon (white, the black did nasty things to my plastics). I don't get a grainy looking finish.

     

    Is it possible you are thinning so much that your primer (or any imperfections on the mini) are what is showing through? Maybe you are over-thinning. I prefer my paints a bit thick, so maybe I am totally wrong, but you can always give it a shot on a mini you'd particularly care for.

  6. Offhand, companies I like:

     

    Copplestone - Great near-future line, excellent early 20th century line.

     

    Fortress Figures - Nice amazons and mummies.

     

    Black Orc - makers of 100 Kingdoms. Nice minis, many sculpted by people familiar to Reaper customers...

     

    Eureka - love the pirates, plus they are the makers of winged fezzed monkeys and have the "100 Club" and "300 Club" minis-by-request system.

     

    Kallistra - bought some of their pygmies. Outstanding, and cheap even buying overseas.

  7. That sounds like a good idea. I've generally used white glue. Another "stiffening" trick is to put down your flock, then dip the base in a 50/50 (or so) glue and water mix. Basically, thick as whole milk. When it dries, the flock will have soaked up the glue and will be stiff and resist mangling pretty well. I have a mini used for every game session since early 2000 done with this method, and it still has all of its flock.

     

    I have to try the brush-on matte sealer....or maybe my brush-on gloss and then hit it with matte spray sealer.

  8. I do not like shiny figures. Gloss makes them glossy, and I dislike that. I want them to look like how I painted them - the dullcote is there to protect my paint job, not gloss it up. I'll gloss up the parts I want glossy.

     

    FWIW, I use either a gloss or a non-matte matte (Armory, ahem) as my first coat, then I hit it will dullcote to matte it. That gets me the protective value of gloss and the matte quality I like.

  9. I have an idea for a "Learn-to-Paint Kit" more than for a particular color.

     

     

    Anyone else game for that?

    Foundry has a line of paints they sell in 6-paint packs. You get two related colors, and for each color you get your "highlight" and "shade" colors. So they more-or-less tell you straight out what colors work well together by default.

     

    It is a very clever idea, and I do not see any reason why others could not follow suit in a similar fashion...

  10. I have been adding "947 Extender" by Plaid to my paints (both Reaper Pro Paints and craft paints). I cannot give a ratio, because I added it to each bottle of paint slowly until I got a consistancy I liked.

     

    This is coming from someone who paints straight out of the bottle and only mixes additional liquid (water or magic wash) for washes, though. But I get good results so I cannot be completely crazy.

  11. You know, that is something I have always wondered about: the wizard's dress code. Where does it say, 'Hey, you are now a wizard, here's a bath robe?'

    In LOTR, obviously, right after it says "Be like Gandalf" and "It must be the robes."

     

    Non-Gandalf clone wizards are always welcome, if rare. I personally find my best results using non-wizard minis and modifying them suits my needs. This is especially the case since I run a game system (GURPS) that does not have any "wizards don't wear armor" rules....so I have a lot of chainmail wearing wizard minis converted from clerics and warriors. Saw off the holy symbol, insert wand/staff/spell effect...

  12. I'm asking for reptile looking humanoids who are slim framed with thin long necks and tails.

    RAFM Reptiliads fit this description very well. I am not sure if RAFM still makes them, but I have had no real problems tracking down old packs of Reptiliads. The ones from the later "Universal Soldier" line are larger than the originals and fit nicely with 28mm/30mm minis.

  13. If we call Lance "offensive first strike" and Pike "defensive first strike", then state that offensive and defensive cancel each other, it would be clear what is going on, and we wouldn't need clarifications.

    That would make sense. Of course, I would still argue that pike-armed infantry should get a type that has both the Offensive First Strike and Defensive First Strike abilities. :)

  14. Fair enough, but I have a hard time seeing how your "cancel the lance SA" doesn't mean "I have a longer strike distance than most figures do." Right now, you can get Pike, and cancel the Lance SA, but unless your opponent has Lance you get no other benefit.

     

    I can see that from a simplicity point of view, but it does seem like you are giving long weapons somewhat short shrift in a game that could easily represent their pros and cons well...

  15. Pike SA:

    In our past, when men fought with blocks of infantry armed with weapons, and the era we usually think about when we mention Pikemen and the like (English Civil War era is a good example), the pike played a specialised roll on the battlefield.

     

    In offensive terms, the pike was about as useless as a wet kipper. A 20 foot long stick isn't really a weapon which can be weilded in close combat. However, what the pike does do is make cavalry go elsewhere. Pikes were the epitome of defensive weapons, making cavalry go elsewhere because even against cannons they stand a chance... against pikemen, they're dogfood and glue.

     

    Historically, pikes *were* offensive weapons in some eras - usually the "phalanx and legion" era. You'd get longer pikes beating out shorter pikes, massed formations of pikemen used on the offensive as well as being used to ward off cavalry. The later era pikemen were used for different purposes, but by then gunpowder and heavier armor had changed the battlefield a bit.

     

    The point about their uselessness at point blank is valid, though. Maybe pikes - if they are actual pikes and not just a term for "spears we can use to annoy cavalry with" - should have more difficulty when fighting base-to-base but get the advantage of their weapon length for striking purposes.

     

    In other words, give Pike the same offensive power as Lance (striking first), but reduce their own base-to-base combat ability by say -1. That would simulate their ability to strike a foe with their longer weapon, but when pressed close be forced to use whatever backup weapon they have (knives of various lengths, smaller swords, fangs/teeth/knuckles, whatever - not all pikemen are human in Warlord...).

     

    That would encourage people to do one of three things:

     

    - attack, so they can take advantage of their longer reach for the initial attack and hope that is sufficient to eliminate their foe before they get base-to-base counterattacks.

    - back off when faced with close-combat troops (get the defensive strike against them with your long-reach weapons, then hope you can keep your distance).

    - support them with their own close-combat troops (ala the Swiss).

     

    All of which I think would add to the game. I just have no idea how much more to charge for Pike if this is done.

  16. When they all look like poor shambling mounds, I hit my FLGS's $1 bin of crappy minis to restock.   :laugh:

    Then you can just paint them green and use them as Shambling Mounds. Nice.

     

    This reminds me of an old "What's New?" bit, with the award-winning miniature of an "ogre" having 234 layers of paint. He started out as a halfling...

  17. I just practice on my minis.  I rarely strip them down, and when I finish one I almost never go back to fix it.

    Same here. Just too many unpainted minis to justify stripping them. If a few come out so-so, I just move on and keep working. They make handy comparison points later to see how I have improved or what techniques work better for what I am trying to achieve.

  18. It pretty much works as advertised - the wash gets into the gaps better and clings to wide open surfaces much less often. You do need to watch for bubbles, but they are fairly easy to avoid.

     

    I do not magic wash flesh very often - I find I get my best results just doing lots of layers of flesh and maybe a non-magic wash with very watery black paint to highlight the features. But for most of my non-vehicle washes I use the magic wash.

     

    Not terribly helpful, I know, but the site you looked at describes its effects better than I can. I just know I like it.

  19. No, I did not check the back label. To be honest, I figured the All-Purpose Black was the same as the All-Purpose White. Krylon gets a *lot* of positive press here, so it never occured to me that there was a disclaimer of "don't spray GW plastics with it!" on those recommendations. :(

     

    I will stick with Varsity - $2 for 11 oz and it works fine on my plastic minis.

  20. you sure it wasnt solvent based rather than water based?

     

    cause that would melt plastic

    Could be - but all it said on the can is "1316 All Purpose Primer Charcoal Black" and it looks just like the rest of the Krylon primer cans. I also made sure it said "plastics" on the list of surfaces. I already refunded it, so I am not sure what else it said.

     

    Does their all-purpose primer have acetone or something of the sort in it?

     

    I have used Krylon white primer before, and it looked about the same. But when I used that I was still using carboard bases for my minis, and I used it up before I tried it with plastics.

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