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TKD

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Posts posted by TKD

  1. Are you sure it was the paint or were the minis in an area of excessive heat maybe?

     

    I spray them in the sun, then I put them in well-ventilated shade. So if it was heat, I would have expected it to have happened before. I never had anything like this happen to any mini...the plastics look like I dunked them in the GW plastic glue. It really dissolved the bases and minis pretty badly.

     

    I think I'm going to stick to what I know - the black automotive primer that I buy has worked fine in the past. I figured it would be worth $4 for the Krylon, but it cost me $4, 2 bases, 2 miniatures I cannot replace cheaply, and time - I wanted to finish those minis for Friday's game (prime today, paint tomorrow and Thursday morning, seal Thursday night and matte coat Friday morning), but now....

     

    I must have gotten a bad can. I'll return it...but I do not think I am getting Krlyon black primer again.

  2. I went out for black primer today. Sadly, Pep Boys was out of the "Varsity" brand black primer I use regularly. I really needed the primer to finish a set of minis, so I picked up some Krylon black primer instead - 1316 All Purpose Black Primer.

     

    Oh, boy, was that a mistake. I paid twice as much, and I used it on a few minis - some plastics and a couple of minis mounted on GW plastic bases.

     

    I had to shake the can up a lot - 15 minutes or more - before it would spray black out of it instead of just semi-clear. I sprayed my minis and went off to do other things. 30 minutes later I came to pick them up and see how they were....and they had melted. The two plastic minis I painted I had melted into the cardboard I was using to hold them. The two minis with the plastic bases needed to be pried off the carboard with a knife, since the bases had basically disintegrated.

     

    Is this a bad can, or should I have known this would happen? Right now, I'm thinking of returning the can and waiting until they get more of the brand I am used to....I know that one is safe for plastics.

     

    (Editing later - wrong name on my other primer - it is Varsity, not Vintage. I keep doing that...)

  3. Okay, the outstretched left hand is palm-down, in a "mummy reaching for Abbot and Costello" kind of position. You could probably cut it off and set it vertically without too much difficulty, but as Frosch says the thumb might be the problem. The other hand doesn't really look like it is shooting, but if you add a hip quiver it could look like it is reaching for another arrow....
  4. I have dealt positively with:

     

    SV Games (http://www.svgames.com) - only 10% off though

    Spoke too soon - my last order from SVGames is badly overdue and they have ignored my emails and phone calls. Luckily, my credit card company doesn't do that, so we will see if I get my money back.

     

    At least I still have Discount Hobby.

  5. That is quite a list. I did not see any mention of acrylic paints. I wonder if they cause problems.

     

    On the other hand, it is the Primer I should worry about - I have no idea what is in my primers (Rust-o-leum, Krylon, and Varsity) that could or could not cause problems in the long run.

     

    Either way, as long as my painted lead minis last a decade or so, I'm happy.

  6. Has anyone had any experience with this or does anyone know a good way to get rid of this corrosion.  Since these are lead, I worry about taking a file to them and ruining what little bit of detail they have.

    Ironically, all of my old minis - the ones I handled with my bare hands and left around in terrible conditions - are fine. Some of the ones I have had sitting around in sealed boxed for 20 years (picked up off eBay or elsewhere) have lead rot. Go figure.

     

    My experience has been that the best way to deal with the lead rot is to:

     

    1) File off the lead rot - gently, but file it off.

    2) Wash the minis thoroughly.

    3) Paint them up.

     

    I had some badly lead-rotted starship minis, but after I cleaned them up they painted up nicely. They have been fine for years. Maybe they are secretly rotting under the paint, but they seem solid and sturdy and fine....

  7. Problem there is that some people *coughMEcough* would have to re-base about 120 figures now to make them play-legal if they did that.

    Well, sure, and I would need to rebase about the same amount if I played Warlord with square bases...you cannot please everyone with either method.

     

    The best solution might be to directly address round bases in the rules, instead of kind of skirting the issue like now.

  8. In my company, displayed elsewhere, I went with a dark blue tunic, and everything else was variable. I felt it gave thwen a "uniform" but not "cookie cutter" look.

    It works, too, having seen your company. I had your company in mind as an example, but I could not find the link off-hand when I posted earlier.

  9. This talk of dwarves with guns - and other odd implements - leads to me something I would like to see - open-hand minis I can add weapons to. I have these old TSR AD&D Dwarves* that came 3/blister with a shield sprue and a weapon sprue. I have outfitted a few packs of them myself and armed them with shields and weapons from their own pack, the Reaper weapons pack, and so on. Lots of identical dwarves to start with, but weapon choice is beyond trivial - pick it out, glue it on, and viola! new dwarf mini. Lop off some horns on a helm or add some detail with green stuff (or from my bits box) and the minis look very different.

     

    It also occured to me that my favorite thing about the GW plastic models is the choice of gear - so easy to buy the models and make them anything from crossbowmen to archers to halberdiers to sword-armed pistol-packing pirates. Gear choice on a mini is fantastic.

     

    So, I would really love to see figures like that. Yes, even dwarves, nevermind how many I already have. I mean, I didn't need as many as I have now, but it is so fun to pick new weapons for them.

     

    * Which were bizarrely tall back in the 80s, but now are almost the same height as my Chainmail and (Olley) Reaper dwarves. Heh. They fit in just fine nowadays.

  10. Well, one suggestion I would have is to pick out what is supposed to be "uniform" - do they all have the same hats? Same armor? Same tabard? Pick common items on all minis in a unit (easy if they are duplicates) and decide what colors those are.

     

    Maybe all of your dwarves have silvered mail over blue padding and wear black hats and have military-issue shields and boots (seems likely, historically, once you get into the standing army eras that most pseudo-historical fantasy games use). Then paint the rest of their kit a little different.

     

    Pick out items that are "personal kit" and paint those different colors from the other minis - maybe one guy has an oak axehandle, but the next guy stained his nearly black. Paint some pouches dark leather, others light. Mix and match the details so no two figures has exactly the same combo and you should have a lot of unique figures wearing a uniform.

     

    Another option is to paint all of their shields the same, but reserve a corner on each one for "personal heraldry" and stick a different color patch or detail on each mini.

     

    Hope that helps (after all, it is basically what I do.)

  11. It's bizzare, reaper should just suck it down, and make round bases.

    I should mention that I play with round bases. My main use for minis is GURPS, and I use Chessex 25mm hex maps and 25mm paper hex maps for my games. 25mm squares make life difficult, so I use 25mm round bases (and 20mm square bases) for my minis. So "base to base" is always easy to determine when we play round-base Warlord.

  12. How about something like:  As long as a figure has flat edge contact with one figure, it has valid base contact with all figures it touches.

    That seems the best way to go to me. If you force a Lay On change, it is one more thing to do before you can resolve it, and will probably lead to people try to get cute during the Lay-On. Just call it valid contact and start rolling dice for damage. :)

  13. Also, PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND/OR COVER YOUR CLIPPERS WHEN YOU ARE CLIPPING YOUR WIRE.  I'VE HAD SOME CLOSE CALLS, THOSE LITTLE BITS OF FLYING METAL CAN REALLY BE DANGEROUS.

    Actually, try this:

     

    Snip in a bag. Put wire in a clear plastic bag. Insert hands with clippers, and clip away. The wire clipping will be caught in the bag - no "shrapnel" and no lost pinning wire on the floor.

  14. since the orcs I use are the new GW ones (the one thing that GW makes that I think surpasses other companies in design)

    Madzerker, Wargames Foundry also makes some "War Orcs" that look a lot like GW orcs. I am not a big fan of GW-style orcs, but if you like GW orcs you should check out Foundry's figures. They might have a few poses you could use. They also have smaller packs of them available besides the big horde.

     

    Peter

     

    Hmmm....madzerker....don't I have a bunch of items on my eBay watch list with madzerker as a seller?

  15. Character - Not really sure. I have so many good ones already, and I tend to modify minis to make the ones I do not have. I tend to need monsters more than generic NPCs, and generic NPCs more than "PCs".

     

    Monster - Bulette, identical to the 1st ed Monster Manual picture, free-standing (i.e. no integral base). Like the big scarab beetle or scorpion or turtle dragon minis.

     

    (and Dragon Snack, if you are looking for a rust monster mini, I have a few packs of the old TSR one lying around. PM me if you want one or more).

  16. I start with an off-white and work upwards to white. For bone, for example, I use an ivory followed by a near-ivory, then an off-white or two, highlighted with white. For cloth, I use a light tan (I have a color called "Nubby Linen" by Anita's) and shade that up to pure white using off-white colors.

     

    That seems to work well enough.

  17. With more people playing, especially with the huge amount of marterial available for D20, having a cheap source of painted figures is going benefit a lot of people who don't have the time, inclanation or money to buy and paint lead figures.

    I personally think this is a non-competing product with Reaper. The market is not the same - they are providing finished product for its own game and for aiding D&D games. Reaper provides unfinished minis you can paint yourself. Pre-painted plastic helps eliminate a barrier to playing miniatures games and map-based combat in RPGs for non-painters.

     

    In fact, this kind of product can help grow the hobby - if even a small number of D&D Miniatures players and D&D gamers used to pre-painted plastic start buying painted minis on eBay or unpainted pewter to paint themselves, you have a net gain for painters and miniatures companies alike.

     

     

     

    On another subject, I like the new WhizKids 3-D Dungeons stuff. The traps set is pretty cool...it even comes with a huge hand sticking out of the ground. ;)

  18.    1) It allows the painter ultimate control over the impact of the metallic effects on the eye.

     

     

    2) Strongly related to number one, with NMM there are no "fade outs" if the viewer is looking at the mini in less-than-optimal lighting.

     

    Sure, and those make sense from the point of view of someone doing a lot of presentation pieces. As someone doing nothing but playing pieces, I do not need to have ultimate control of the viewing experience - light positioning relative to the mini, for example. I need minis that look good - and have shadows and reflections - appropriate to whatever lighting they get at the moment. Standing in a bright flourescent light, getting direct sunlight, standing behind a piece of home-made terrain cover, whatever.

     

    3) Color control.

     

    This reason is quite applicable even to a table-top playing piece. As you say later in your post, you can do shaded metallics and get a similar effect. I find the cost of gaining this color control via NMM is outweighed by the time it takes to achieve it...and that my main audience (my gamers) really is not deeply impressed by the extra time it takes me.

     

    I have nothing especially against NMM...I just do not regard it as the sign of a master painter or the lack of it as the work of a novice. Some uses of NMM have impressed me, others have not. In my personal experience, I can get a more pleasing effect using metallics. NMM is another tool - I keep it in my toolbox, but frankly I get more use out of my metallics.

  19. Oh yes, one other lesson I have learned:

     

    Priming is a great way of finding out where the mold lines are. After I prime, before I paint, I check for mold lines. Primer will sometimes fine tiny flaws I otherwise might have missed. At that point, I will fix them and touch up with thinned paint of the appropriate color (white, grey, or black).

  20. How do I clean and prime my figures?

     

    I actually don't wash my minis. I have done it in the past, but only sporadically. I will do it if the minis gets cobwebbed or dusty or otherwise schmutzed up, but that is about it. I have been told my skin oils are going to eat through the primer and paint, but frankly laziness (and no damage spotted so far) has won out.

     

    For mini prep, I use:

     

    - emory boards (work great, cheap, disposable, and easy to cut into the right shade for hard-to-reach spots)

    - needle files (especially my round file and my flat on one side, rounded on the other side file)

    - a GW sprue clipper (for plastics and for nipping off flash)

    - a #5 heavy duty x-acto knife (for removing flash)

     

    The first few minis I painted when I got back in the hobby I did without filing the mold lines. Big mistake. My moral, which I repeat to anyone who will listen, is "Paint reveals, not conceals." I file off all mold lines, no matter how faint or unobstrusive, except the base (I'm going to flock it anyway).  Those "faint" mold lines stand out sharply once painted, so off they go along with any flash.

     

    As for priming, I have a good "priming station" outside - a 4 1/2' high white stone ledge that no one care if I get all painted up. I stand my minis on cardboard in a row, fixed down with blue poster tack. I then spray from about 6" to 12" away (depending on the wind) . I do this 4 times - once each front and back, and once each from the sides.

     

    The only downside to this method is that minis sometimes lack primer under arms, behind shields, etc. So, once the minis dry, I check them for "bald spots." If they have ones worth noting, I do that spot with a quit spritz of primer with the mini propped up (or lying down) in such a way as to make that spot easy to hit.

     

    That is pretty much it - I do a lot of mini prep at one time (often a dozen minis or more), then I primer in bunches, and then store the minis for eventual painting.

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