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TKD

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Posts posted by TKD

  1. I did the foam-and-brushes trick. They sat 36 hours, and came out fine. It seemed to do the trick, but some of the paint was still stuck on, even after I washed the brushes in my Master's soap. Oh well, it did get some paint off of all of them, which is very nice, and little or none of the W&N evaporated. So, I poured it back in the jar for next time. Heh.

     

    The combo of the W&N liquid and my Master's should stand me in good stead. I've been using the same brushes for 4 years now, so every little bit of cleaning helps.

  2. The clothespin is a good idea. What I ended up doing was pouring about 1/3 of the W&N into an old Anchovy bottle. Then I took a piece of foam from one of my Chainmail minis, and poked my 5 brushes I wanted to clean through it backwards. I lined them up and suspended them in the cleaner. It said 24 hours...I hope 36 is not a problem because I won't have time to take them out until tomorrow morning.
  3. There are a few critters in my collection I really, really like:

     

    - the WOTC Chainmail Otyugh

    - Black Orc Games "Giant Gor" for Hundred Kingdoms

    - Reaper's Carnivorous Ape (like Gor it was done by Jason Wiebe)

    - Reaper's Giant Spiders

     

    I also have a GW Chaos Demon of some kind - not sure of his name, but he is wielding a honking big sword and chain, and has a long tongue coming out of his mouth with a little face on the end. Great mini...

    [Editing Later: Aha, he is a "Greater Demon of Nurgle". Found the box he came in.]

     

    Outside of my collection, my favorite of all time is probably Ral Partha's "Jabberwocky". An excellent mini, it looked just like the pictures from my Lewis Caroll books. I never could afford one when I had a chance to buy one, but I saw many in person, painted and unpainted. I would love to see someone make another Jabberwocky...but not a "new interpretation" - a duplicate of the original illustration would do.

  4. Warning, things like Pine-Sol and Simple green can discolor your miniatures, especially the older lead ones.

    They can, but they seem to only discolor them. I have some minis I stripped paint from in 1999, all lead ones. I soaked them in SG for, oh, 2-3 days before I got around to stripping them. They came out badly discolored.

     

    I primed most of them and painted them up. Now in 2003, they still hold up fine. No peeling, no weakness in the metal, nothing. The couple I still have unpainted are nearly black from the SG, but are still okay and show no signs of lead rot or other problems.

     

    I think the discoloration is all that happens, not any actual structural damage.

  5. Okay, I picked up some Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer. I figure that between that and my Master's soap I should be able to get my oldest brushes completely free of paint.

     

    However, I need to soak the brushes for 24 hours if I want to remove dried-in acrylics. Fine and dandy. How do I do that without bending the tips or soaking the entire brush in a flat dish?

     

    My one though at this point is to soak them while keeping their plastic slip-covers on the tips, but they fit so snugly they trap air and make getting the tip wet a bit problematic.

     

    Any suggestions from the W&N brush cleaner fans, or anyone else?

  6. I mostly use craft paints, but I like Reaper's "Troll Flesh" - a very dark green, deeper than olive but not quite hunter green. Nice.

     

    I also like Reaper's Caucasian Flesh, which is a little lighter than the Apple Barrel flesh colors I use so it makes a great highlight.

     

    Walnut is nice, too, although I prefer a generic Burnt Umber in most cases. I could not like without Burnt Umber, so if I was using only Pro Paints I would definately pick up Walnut.

  7. What exactly is this W&N brush cleaner called? I was looking for it today but I only found their oil-paint brush cleaner (sansolve, I think it was called).

    WN Brush Cleaner & Restorer. Comes in a red and white bottle from 120ml size and up.

    Great, thanks!

  8. I rarely mix paints unless I absolutely need a custom color. For the most part, I just buy the shade I want. I use Apple Barrel Colors and Anita's primarily, so buying a $0.25 bottle of paint* for one mini is not a problem. I have ended up with dozens of paints as a result, though, and I sometimes think I did just as good work when I had only a fraction of the colors I have now. But still I find it terribly handy to just pull down a specific shade of brown to paint my pygmies, a different shade of brown wood, etc. out of my collection.

     

    * Always buy on sale. :)

  9. It's also hard to get off your fingers, but I've been using this stuff for years for filling in gaps when assembling minis, especially dragons.

    Assuming you mean green stuff, try water. Wet your fingers when you use it and it will come right off. I wet my fingers and my tools and I have no problems getting it right off. When I let my fingers or tools get dry, inevitably the Kneadtite sticks to them.

  10. I dont see the danger, if you didn't know, Saliva is more powerful then most the stuff you guys clean your floors with or use to dip minis, when it comes to disinfecting.

    So, they best way to disinfect something safely is to stick it in your mouth? I have to admit that seems somewhat counter-intuitive.

  11. W&N makes an awesome paint cleaner and brush reconditioner.  I use the cake soaps to, but the W&N liquid cleaner gets paint out that's dried in the ferule.  It's great - REALLY!

    What exactly is this W&N brush cleaner called? I was looking for it today but I only found their oil-paint brush cleaner (sansolve, I think it was called).

  12. I play with 28mm minis for GURPS, and I use a Chessex 25mm hexmap. One 25mm hex = 1 yard in GURPS. For D&D, with most distances being in multiples of 5' and 10' instead of being in yards, I would go for 1" squares = 5'. That would mean a person fallen over would take up 2 1" squares, which is about right size-wise for 28mm minis, although it is a bit generous for scale.
  13. I have no "game world" idea why there are Orcs and Black Orcs. Figure-wise, the Black Orcs are a bit bigger (taller, more muscular looking) than the regular orcs.

     

    I paint them both up the same color (Reaper Pro Paint "Troll Flesh") and just use all of them as plain orcs in my GURPS game.

  14. #4. I Understand alot of basic termanology of painting, but alot of other terms are still a mystery to me, such as layering, blending, (just Examples,..lots more) Anyone know of a good miniature painting Glossary, or similar?.

    The place I always send new painters is the Mini Painting FAQ. It made a huge difference to me when I got back into painting a few years ago:

     

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/games/miniatures/painting-faq/

     

    Even if you go elsewhere for advice, it does a great job as a general glossary of techniques.

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