Jump to content

TKD

Bones Supporter
  • Posts

    446
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by TKD

  1. Frankly, the only difference I really see is price. I use mostly craft paints (Apple Barrel Colors, Anita's, and Folk Art metallics) with a few "gamer" paints thrown in (Vallejo Model Colors and some Reaper Pro Paints). I use Reaper and GW Inks, since I cannot find less expensive inks.

     

    I prefer my Apple Barrel Colors over anything else I've purchased, and they cost me $0.25 for 2 oz for the most part.

  2. When ever I see this topic on the forum it says "Future Floor Polish" now I imagine this is some form of US brand floor polish. Could someone please give details of what is in it etc so I can try and find an equivliant here in the UK. Or if someone already knows what to get please let me know thanks.

     

    Stuart

    "Future" is indeed a brand, but all you need is an acrylic floor finish. I use a generic brand and I get great results.

  3. GURPS, both for roleplaying campaigns and for pick-up gladiator-style fights.

     

    I also play a couple mini games - Circus Murderous occasionally, and Ogre Miniatures. I actually use a pair of CAV "Whisper" missile carriers as Cruise Missile Crawlers with my Ogre minis. I painted one up with Paneuropean colors and another with Combine colors.

  4. Hmm....the Testor's I use is the Model Master Flat (Lusterless) Dullcote, #1960 I think. The "regular" Testors is 1260...or maybe I have that backwards. Either way, I am not sure if there is a difference, I use the Model Master one exclusively for my final coat.

     

    I put a "normal" coat of sealer on, then the dullcote on the next day. I found the dullcote will cover anything - Rustoleum, Krylon, Armory, Testor's Gloss Cote.

  5. I picked up some extender a few weeks ago, but I did not have time to try it until last week.

     

    I pretty much took the paints I found to be a little too thick or just flow in ways I did not like and dumped some extender in. Really dumped - I pour some straight into the bottle. Shook them up really well, and started to use them.

     

    First, adding extender revived my rapidly thickening jar of Reaper Pro Paint "Troll Flesh". Second, it nicely took care of the thickening problem I had with Anita's Chocolate Brown, which is a color I used straight up for basecoating my pygmy minis so I needed it to flow nicely.

     

    Overalll I am quite pleased, although I am aware I ignored most of the recommendations about using them. :)

     

    Peter

     

    PS - Frank, what I got was Folk Art Extender 947 by Plaid. 2oz cost like $0.89 at AC Moore.

  6. I just sprayed a coat of dullcoat over a coat of gloss, and it's just as glossy as if I used the gloss. (maybe I did and didn't notice, will check this, assume I used the dullcoat)

     

    What am I doing wrong?

    Good question. I use a layer of either Testor's Gloss or Armory Matte or Rustoleum Matte first - all are pretty shiney - and finish it a day later with a thin coat of Testor's (Lusterless) Dullcote. Kills the shine, but stands up to a lot of abuse without having to coat and re-coat with dullcote.

  7. Hmmm....large battles are very typical in my games.

     

    What I prefer is miniatures for all of them. I have a *lot* of human minis - including several boxes worth of GW Empire Militia, Empire Soldiers, Empire Knightly Orders, Chaos Marauders, Chaos Warriors, and miscellaneous Witchhunters and Possessed and so on. That cover most humans nicely, for the most part.

     

    I also have a lot of orcs, mostly Reaper but a few Ral Partha, RAFM, Grenadier, TSR, some Dwarven Forge ones my players bought me when they were fighting a lot of orcs... I think I have 30 or so, which is enough.

     

    To supplement those, I use:

     

    - Battlesystem counters

    - counters from the Cry Havoc series of games

    - Cardboard Heroes (including a lot of homemade ones)

    - some counters from a Microtactix game

    - for pirates, some plastic pirates from the "Weapons & Warriors Pirate Battle Game".

     

    That seems to do. Minis are the best, but I usually end up with a mix. During military situations, that works well - "All of the white human counters with swords are Armsman's Guild mercs of Lansdown's Company, while the minis are ragged militia troops, and those blue minis are your allied crossbowmen." It lets us differentiate between forces without having to repaint my minis to change their affiliations. :)

     

    It also has a side benefit - my players do not associate "well painted mini" with "important NPC." Sometimes the important NPC gets a home-made cardboard standup, while his generic orc bodyguards get some of my best minis...

  8. So what techniques do people use to shade white?  start with a light gray and layer white on top to build to a highlight?

    Yeah, light grey or an off-white depending on how I want it to look. Lots of companies offer shades of white, but you need to *end* at white instead of starting at it to get the effect you want.

  9. So, I finally got my Hackmaster Beholders. Pretty cool. I am glad I pick up two of them. I filed and prepped my first one last night. It had a *lot* of thick flash, but I filed it all off.

     

    A little kneadtite to fill in a gap, and I will have a very nice beholder mini.

     

    Thanks to everyone who gave me details on this before I bought it.

  10. OK. what do you usually use for

              #1.basecoating

     

    A 5/0 liner, a 0 round, and for big areas I use a slightly chopped-down $0.10 black children's paint brush. Works really well for really big areas, actually, and saves a lot of time.

     

           #2.large detail
    Same as basecoating.

     

           #3.small detail

     

    A 10/0 liner generally and a 20/0 round for extremely small details.

     

           #4.drybrushing

     

    Any of a few older brushes worn out from use, plus two plastic children's brushes I chopped down a bit - one very small for getting to hard-to-drybrush areas, one big one for larger areas.

  11. I have, or had, a lot of older minis I just did not want anymore.

     

    I mostly sold them on eBay. I have so many unpainted minis that I feel little compunction in testing techniques, washes, color combos, etc. on minis I intend to keep. I tend to do that on ones I like less than others, but I only paint the minis I want. It fits with my "never strip mistakes; finished them, seal them and move on" philosophy of mini painting. Hmm...should write up my philosophy on my web page....

     

    What I have found, though, is that my players like prefer game pieces in the following order, from least to most:

     

    - plastic or paper tokens

    - unprimed minis

    - cardboard counters* / Carboard Heroes**

    - primed minis

    - partly, or badly, painted minis

    - well painted minis

     

    So long as I have actually primed a mini, they prefer it to anything else other than painted minis. This all assumes the mini is appropriate - they would rather have a paper token that says "Troll" on it than use an inappropriate mini to represent a troll. So I have taken some of my older minis I have little intention of actually painting, primed them (in some cases without bothering to file the mold lines down first), and use them. If I ever decide to paint them, I will file down the mold lines and re-prime, but otherwise they come in useful in play.

     

    Peter

     

     

    * Both old Battlesystem counters and the counters from the Cry Havoc! series of games. The latter are especially useful for cannon fodder types (each has its own name, so it is easy to keep track of dozens of NPCs).

     

    ** Actual SJG ones, and home-made ones for critters I invent or steal. I actually prefer the flat "object" counter Cardboard Heroes; we use every one of the weapons, armor, and corpse markers. I actually had to make my own corpse markers because we have such large battles we run out. ;)

  12. Heh, that's funny, I mix everything now and would feel lost without my palette.  :)

     

    I use a small piece of plastic as a palette for my washes, otherwise I shake up my paint containers and dip into the paint that sticks to the top. Easier to paint consistantly if I rarely custom-mix paints, plus I do not mix water in my paints...I like my paints somewhat thick and find it easier to work with thick paints instead of thin ones. I am basically a painting heretic, but my minis come out the way I want them too so...:)

     

     Well, I use a drop (brushful) to about five or six drops of paint...so, guessing, I would say add extender equal to about a sixth of the ink you have left in the bottle.

     

    That is helpful, thanks. I am debating getting some kind of flow improver for some of my very thick paints*; I am assuming the ratio would be roughly the same?

     

     

     

     

    * Especially Anita's Chocolate Brown. Very thick, needs a *lot* of shaking to mix it up properly...but perfect hue for my pygmies. Absolutely perfect basecoat. Easier to thin it a little myself than find a duplicate, I think.

  13. While the changes that could/will effect my campaigns are annoying, the real problem is the next time I'm looking for a group.

    I know I must sound either like a self-help book or a bit Pollyannaish when I say this, but that is easily solved. Just keep the group you have, or convert your friends into gamers. I have had basically the same group for the last 4 years, and over half of my gamers have gamed with me for most of the last 9 years. Two others in my group played with me back in high school and now play again.

     

    Out of them, several have only ever gamed with me...

     

    So I tend to believe that your best bet is to find people you are compatible and teach them to game. It solves the whole "finding a group" problem and the "I'd never talk to this guy outside of game" problem as well. The only way this is a big obstacle is if your circumstances force you to move around a lot - the military, school, work, etc. and your group of friends is inherently unstable. In those cases, probably the best bet is to become a dictatorial "My table, my rules!" GM and make all of your new gamers conform. ;)

     

    That works for me, anyway. I have players who would prefer I do things one way instead of another, and players who like rules-light vs. ones who like rules-heavy. I get both together by saying "I am the GM, and in return for me spending my time and effort building and running game, you have to accept my way of doing things. You can disagree with me and try to convince me to change (outside of game sessions only) but when it comes down to it we are playing my game, not GURPS or anything else."

     

    Somehow, despite this attitude, I have more gamers who want to play than I have seats at my game. I think it might actually be *why* I have this group; perhaps they understand the inherent bargain in playing vs. GMing and value it.

     

    In any case, good luck implementing the changes you choose, and I hope you are able to keep your more demanding player happy without causing yourself any headaches.

  14. High detail? I have to agree with FreeFall here. I have Gauth and T'raukzul, and I have a hard time imagining that the "warlord treatment" would mean much improvement. They are highly detailed, well made, multi-part...the only "Warlord" thing they do not have is seperate square metal bases.
  15. You might also note that *any* light colored paint, GW or not, will have problems going over black primer in a single coat. It is the nature of black primers that very light paints are not going to cover completely in one coat. That is why I mix up my primer types - for figures with mostly light colors I use white primer, for metallic-heavy minis I use grey, for primarily dark or black minis I use black primer. That might help you as well.
  16. There are quite a few.  Between spell nerfs, wizard school specialization, Bard changes, Druid changes, and Rogue changes, there will be a huge effect on my campaigns.

    Why not just not use the changes? It is your campaign, after all, there is no reason you *have* to make changes mid-game just because the rules changed.

     

    Tell the players you have who want to use the new rules that you will use them in future games, and possible phase in any rule changes that will not contradict known campaign facts/previous events for this one.

     

    As someone who have put in rules changes in play before, I can tell you this works fine. Leave what you already have integrated into the campaign work, and pull in the minor changes (say, combat rules changes, preferred classes for races no one has used yet, etc.) without disrupting anything. No reason to disrupt a good game just because it is based on rules that have since changed.

×
×
  • Create New...