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About Maciej

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  1. I'll consider magnetizing the figureheads so I can swap them around. I'd also contemplate adapting the dragon bust for it, if it's the right size. On cannons: Pillars of Eternity 2 has these flame-thrower cannons with dragon heads on them, would love to see something like that.
  2. To add to this, here is an older video of Matt about tactics that's older and I feel often overlooked: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfYItCw00Z4 Bullet-points would be: Encounters that aren't life threatening should have a chance of becoming ones: patrol / guards / scouts are there not to fight alone, but to alert the rest of your baddies For encounters that are life threatening: Place your long range hard hitting dude more than 30ft away from PCs Place a line of mooks between said dude and the PCs, but have said mooks stand with 10ft gaps apart, so that players can't move through them without provoking opportunity attacks, but also can't easily nuke them down with area of effect spells Have another striker (high damage, high mobility) or bruiser (high damage, high hit points, low AC, low mobility) creature roaming around as a threat to the party, so that the PCs have more than one problem to solve Use cover: a rock, a tree, a hulking armored undead ogre ;), that your necromancer can hide behind and "split move and fire": move out of cover, target a problematic PC, move back in cover. I think all of this is easier to implement than home-brewing action oriented design for your encounters, though of course you can combine the two for boss encounters. The short answer though is that: yes, most monsters in 5e are pretty boring.
  3. @Mini_Wizard_Studios What base did you use for this guy? I'm using the same style of tapered round bases but I can't find one that's 75mm (closest I found is 80mm from GW).
  4. I'm still a noob but I believe medium and thinner are the same thing (I've seen people refer to it as "thinner medium", which makes sense). I have a thinner and a flow aid as separate products from Vallejo and their product descriptions are: Thinner: "Dilutes color without loss of adhesion, resistance and consistency. Thinner is used to extend the colors, to increase fluidity and delay the drying time. We recommend the addition of a few drops of Thinner to the colors while airbrushing." Flow Improver: "Airbrush Flow Improver is a medium to improve the flow & delay the drying of paint on the needle. We recommend adding 1-2 drops Flow Improver to 10 drops of paint in the cup of the airbrush. So, from what I gather thinner keeps the surface tension unchanged, while flow improver breaks it. I've been pretty much only using the thinner recently, I can spray paint at low psi without issues. You might need flow aid if you use a smaller needle, hopefully someone more knowledgable than me can pitch in :).
  5. With the upcoming February Bones Black release of Frost Giants, I'm warming up to picking up Reaper's line of Giants in place of Wizkid's, they are a tad smaller but Reaper sculpts are lovely and have a lot of variety. With that out of the way, can anyone who has the Bones 4 female raiders tell me how do they compare to any of the following: Bodyguard 77544 Warrior 77543 King 77591 Queen 77592 These are all the same price range, so I'm hoping they are all compatible with each other and the new models. Thanks in advance! :)
  6. Thanks! We are our own harshest critics :P. I'm happy with the end result, just not with the time it took me to complete.
  7. This ended up being way more of an adventure than I anticipated, Josh makes stuff look super easy and fast on the stream, and I swear if it weren't for the fact that I've seen him paint it, I wouldn't have believed it took him so little time. What went wrong: I started this Friday evening on a nice zenithal primer, and quickly run into issues. I had to mix my paint to match templar blue and in the end couldn't really figure out how much water to add, I added an amount that I thought seemed right, paint was thinned and from my experience looked like good milky consistency... and it was, I quickly and smoothly covered the skin, only to have all my pretty zenithal almost completely covered. Looking back at the stream Josh's paint was way thinner and seems to have acted almost like a wash on the face. I tried to build up highlights and shadows from that, but wasn't happy with the results I was getting. Saturday morning I stripped the mini and went at it again, did the skin one way I'm comfortable doing it: airbrushing it all. I've run into two issues with my pigment washes: one, they were too runny to stick in the recesses of the blueberries of the back correctly, ended up re-highlighting that area and washing it down with a citadel wash. No idea what can be done to make pigment wash work better there. Second - where the wash did dry in recesses as it should, it created a darker line 1mm from where the recess was, giving it this ghostly outline, I think that might be my paints, I was mixing colors for the washes and the pigments tend to separate if they sit on my palette for a longer time. What went right: Gold and brown with a single wash to cover all the extra bits, super easy. Rock. I didn't have a holder for this mini (I need to get one for 50mm bases), so I couldn't really get my hands steady to make the criss-cross lines with my brush, but that wasn't much of an issue. Some drybrushing and washing over crude blends for highlights did the trick. The edges I managed to do moving side of the brush against it, 1:1 paint to water ratio, brush full of water tapped out to keep a tip, worked wonders. I was able to do fine lines on my hand, if I can lock my hands to avoid shaking I should be fine doing the Crystal Golem in February :). Anyway, hope you like it!
  8. That's quite a lot of rust, but overall it looks good. I'd maybe try to add the original metal on all the sharp edges (tops of the pauldrons etc.) where you might thing the rust could be scratched off, can also literally paint scratches on top if you can do fine lines.
  9. Awesome updates! Now I'm hoping the final model of not-Demogorgon is going to be just as good as mammotaur.
  10. Ha, I was wondering if there is a word for this other than patina, which is correct, but more general term as it also applies to corrosion/residue on stone. Thanks Glitterwolf!
  11. No, I don't play any wargames, I just thought the skull looked better. I know the checkers are very WH Orc style too, didn't really plan to paint the pattern, but something similar is on the concept art and the store art, so I gave it a go just because :).
  12. The blister pack I got at my local store was unassembled, so didn't have to do anything. I was a bit surprised since most reaper minis come assembled, at least at this size. Anyhow, the head is a separate piece, on a pretty thick peg, f you don't care about preserving it (for bits or something else) I'd try to grab it with pliers and yank it out. If that doesn't work you might have to be more brutal, I don't know if you can get into the nooks and crannies with a hobby knife. I once ended up using an electric drill with an 8mm drill bit to remove a piece on a wizkids mini :P. Edit: to be clear, the blister packs with this guy I saw a week later at the same store were fully assembled, so I guess I got an odd one :).
  13. Thanks! Followed Mini Painting Studio's class on shading/weathering metallics, rust is pretty straight forward :)
  14. Converted the head to a Warhammer-esque orc skull with some extra green stuff on sides.
  15. I watched the first episode of Miniature Monday and really liked the red-eyed Warg, perfect winter wolf. I wanted mine to be a tad brighter, but it ended up being almost identical to the paint job on stream. Instead of wet blending over zenithal primer I did the entire base coat with an airbrush. Learned quite a bit on this one. Also, first time doing snow on the base (Light Molding Paste over my 101 ground), hope you like it!
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