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About Bobicus

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  1. I am sure uses the most refined of beauty products :) I was considering adding some scars and stuff, but I decided to save that for another model. Honestly, he was really run to paint, and I can imagine getting a second one sometime to try that out.
  2. Really a trial run to see if I could paint a dark leather cape. Not thrilled with how the blending on his skin turned out, and it was a Needed Reminder to remove mould lines, but otherwise I am pretty happy with how he turned out!
  3. Even ogres need a chance to stop and think about things. Like which dwarf looks tastiest. I largely tried to follow the color scheme in this fellow’s product page, but I am pretty happy with how it turned out. I think this guys has more skin to paint than all of my other figures combined so far! Many thanks to @ManvsMini, @Wren, @cmorse, and @BLZeebub for their help in resolving a paint chipping issue I posted about in the advice forum!
  4. Thanks all for the suggestions! I touched up Mr. Beefsteak and followed up with a coat of satin varnish followed by a round of matte, with the extra curing time suggestions from above. So far, it seems like it has held up well. Thank you again for the help!
  5. @ManvsMini will do! He is currently sitting in quarantine before a satin varnish attempt (I don’t have gloss unfortunately). Some buddies are social distancing while attempting to exorcise the moisture content.
  6. Thanks for the insight - many of my other minis included a satin varnish, and that was another difference here where I only used the matte. For this model, about 2-3 hours between the repair touch-ups and the varnish coat. I think for the original coat, I waited overnight.
  7. Fair point. I did wash him as well. It looks to me like the chipping doesn’t get down to the grey mini plastic, just to the black primer. Another detail: one of the paints was a new bottle and color to me, but I did try and agitate it well before application.
  8. I tried painting my first bones black figure recently, and I’m running into some paint chipping issues after light handling. I base coated the mini with vallejo black acrylic surface primer, used mostly vallejo model color paints, and then varnished with multiple coats of vallejo polyurethane matte varnish, all of which I’ve used on prior bones models together without issue. (I do have lots of reaper paints too! Just didn’t use them here) You can see the chipping on the ogre’s knucles. I’ve touched up and re-varnished that and about four other high spots maybe three times in the last two days- I really want to just be done!!! Any ideas on what I can do to keep this paint on? Thanks!
  9. So still haven’t put them on a real base, but let us finish this thread. Here is the party. Clearly they don’t believe in social distancing.
  10. Thanks for the feedback! I hadn’t thought of dry brushing with a metallic- I’ll give it a shot!
  11. Gah! I can’t figure out what to do with the dracolisk’s skin and wings. Any advice? I’m really happy with the green scales - I will probably add some yellow to the highlights. First time priming black, used white spray paint as well. After working on the scales: A friend suggested making the skin blue. I regret my decision. It looks weird, and now I was lost. This was after highlighting one wing. Here I was trying for more yellow/brown on a test wing patch. Success? Should I do this for the skin on the belly and claws? Thanks for the advice!
  12. These orcs should fit on a 40 mm round base, which isn’t quite 2”. I can offer three options: Put them on a 25 mm base and just deal with the overhang. Use a 40 mm base and make sure your players agree the orc is really medium-sized. This will mess up the nice grid but I’d expect mature players to be able to deal with it. Put them on a 40 mm or 50 mm base and make them advanced orcs. In Pathfinder 1E, there’s a template your can apply to monsters that increases their size. I assume D&D 5E has something similar. (This also works if you have orcs in multiple styles and sizes. For example, you could use the smaller Bones orcs, e.g. 77019: Orc Swordsman (3), as standard orcs and the larger orcs, like these, as advanced orcs.) I personally prefer #2 or #3 over #1. Thank you for your ideas! I think I 2/3 is the better choice as well. I’ll update later once the bases have arrived. In the meantime, here are the 4 buddies together:
  13. Hello all! I’ve been giving a set of orcs all too much of my free time recently while trying out NMM for the first time. I’d appreciate any constructive feedback! Especially with respect to how to finish off the chainmail. Also, given how top-heavy these guys are, they are prone to falling over with such a narrow base. any suggestions on how to base a medium monster for D&D whose footprint exceeds the 1” square? I’m guessing I just use a large base and blame the orc for engaging more foes with his obnoxious wide stance. Here are all of the orcs after base coating their skin with a mix of naga green and leather brown. After shading the skin with candlelight yellow, brown liner, and more naga green. Also worked on the bracers and boots. Painted and shaded the red skirt with dragon red and brilliant red. Base coated chainmail with black, metal plates with 50/50 black/white and a smidgen on vallejo red black. Filling in shadows on the metal for fist NMM pass. Filling in highlights. Now the medium blending... ... and then jumping ahead after working on the transitions, adding some edge highlights, and putting some scratches in. So, how did this go?
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