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edwick

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About edwick

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  1. Did you catch Anne Forester's episode of ReaperLive when she covered working with skin tones? She covers several skin tones, though the sample she paints is intended to be more African-American skin tone than South Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTW7_DSgFRo There might be a little experimentation to find the right shades of brown you want, but I'd start by using the lighter shades of the dark-skin triad (9040 Dark Shadow/9041 Dark Skin/9042 Dark Highlight) as a base and the darker shades of the tan-skin triad (9043 Tanned Shadow, 9044 Tanned Skin, 9045 Tanned Highlight) as highlights. There's also an Olive skin triad (9220 Olive Shadow, 9221 Olive Skin, 9222 Olive Highlight) that might work as an alternative to the tan-skin triad -- it's intended for darker Mediterranean skin tones, but it might look better. I believe Anne shows that specific triad (or at least mentions it) in the video above. I'm also purely guessing -- I get these concepts in principle, but getting them on a mini is another story. Also, minor semantic point: I think you mean "South Asian" skin tones to cover people from the Indian sub-continent. "Southeast Asian" usually describes Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. There's some crossover and all of this is completely arbitrary (as country borders usually are), but since you're seeking something specific I figure it's worth pointing out the specifics. And though you didn't ask, "Southwest Asian" usually describes Afghanistan along with the other "-stans" and most of what's usually described as the "Middle East" (but oddly enough excludes Pakistan, probably because of its historical connections to India). It's all rather confusing, really.
  2. What I did to get the runes painted on Mangu Timur's sword (from the first LTPK) was put down a base coat in the rune color (in my case metallic gold) and then drybrush gently over it with the blade color (in my case black). It's not perfect because I'm still learning how to drybrush, and I was convinced that I screwed up completely until I took out a magnifying glass and looked closely. Photo from my lightbox with the macro lens: Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Depending on how much darker you want the runes on the scroll, you might have more trouble with that technique. But maybe black text on a white scroll means you can use a brighter white for the drybrush and let the black bleed through? That might make it look like it's a more worn scroll or something.
  3. Love the paint job and the tattoos!
  4. Cool! Incredible Hulk color scheme for the win!
  5. Last three of the first finished batch of minis: one I like, one I think could be better, and one...let's call that one a "learning experience." The good was Magnu Timur: Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Mangu Timur came with the "Learn to Paint Kit" and was the one where I went "let's try all the things." I started him with "Sir Gawain and the Green Knight" in mind, and settled on a green-and-gold color scheme pretty quickly. He's an easy figure to see as a Bad Guy, and I wanted to see if I could get him to read as not-a-Bad-Guy, if not entirely a Good Guy either. If he took off his helmet, he'd be Rutger Hauer under there. He's the first figure I tried drybrushing with, which led to the discovery, "Less paint than that." So after a while, I decided to layer on that shining silver deliberately to make his armor really look like it's been through it. That led to experiments with layered washes on his boots to make them look muddy and spattered (which kinda worked). Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr The "let's try all the things" bit with the sword: I didn't want those cool runes in the sword to get lost, so I tried painting the centerline of the sword in pure gold and then drybrushed over it to try and get the rest of the blade black but leave the runes alone. I was convinced I completely screwed it up until I looked at the sword under a magnifying glass and saw that I did better than I thought. The bad was a penguin from the Penguin Attack Pack: Reaper 44104 Penguin Attack Pack by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 44104 Penguin Attack Pack by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Killer penguin! I had to get the Penguin Attack Pack when I saw it, and this was the first one painted in basic penguin colors and the blood of its enemies spattered all around him. The eye is pretty poorly painted, and you can really see seam lines I didn't do anything about. We're still working on the other penguins (who will be killer robot penguins) and the Dire Penguin boss. Hopefully they will be better. The ugly was this Orc Marauder, which looks a bit better than the minis I used to paint in days when guides were all text and bad black-and-white photos, there were no YouTube tutorials or web sites, and all the cons were far far away. Reaper 77042 Orc Marauder by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 77042 Orc Marauder by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr This last figure that came with the "Learn to Paint" kit was the second "let's try all the things" figure. He's a lot less successful than Mangu Timur, but I don't care enough about this orc to really work more on him. I wanted his skin to be reddish-brown (in prep for the Jade Fire orc figures I have in the wings) instead of the usual green or gray, but he's a lot darker than I intended. His eyes and face are a disaster -- really looking forward to trying identifiable humanoid minis now! I also painted his entire "skirt" in metal until I realized that it was fur from other painters' versions of him; This led to a repaint and the paint is too thick and the colors aren't what I wanted, but he's done and I learned things. There's value in that even if I think he sucks.
  6. Hi everyone, jumping back into painting miniatures after a (mumble mumble) year hiatus. I'll say the minis I was painting were from Grenadier, Ral Partha, and Heritage USA, and I was very, very bad at it. But my wife got into some cool steampunk minis on Kickstarter and got a bunch of them plus some "learn to paint" kits. Then we looked at people's work and watched some videos and freaked out for about a year, terrified of actually painting them for fear of screwing them up. We picked up more from the Friendly Neighborhood Hobby-n-Gaming Store (my son will never turn down anything that even vaguely resembles a toy), and finally did some minis after our son asked, "Are you ever going to paint these things?" We set up a ground rule that "the only way to paint these Wrong is if paint ends up on something other than a figure." Meaning the furniture, the floor, someone else, or the dog. Anything else was to be deemed successful. And whaddya know, it was easier than we thought. Grabbed our first finished batch and shot them in my lightbox for toys. Click on any image to see it on my Flickr account, where you can see super-sized versions and alternate angles. First figures: Reaper 77070 Skeletal Archer by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 77070 Skeletal Archer by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr This figure came with the Reaper "Learn to Paint" kit, so we used it as a first try for things. My son did the base coat and I did the details (the bow and quiver, and then the wash layer and the base). Base is a brown with a red wash on it. I'd like to say the bow is a drybrush to get the textures, but it's more just a thin paint job. We tried to straighten his legs, but he slowly reset back into his extreme lean. We did this figure to learn with, so I don't really care deeply about it, but we'll have to be careful about things like this in the future. Reaper 49014 Xairbot (Large) by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Reaper 49014 Xairbot (Large) by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Keeping the trend of my son doing big things and the adults doing details. My son painted the Xairbot in a base yellow (he loves Caterpillar heavy equipment), and my wife did all the silver, blue, and red details. In hindsight, we should have straightened out the right shoulder cannon, too. Reaper 77635 Graveyard Archway by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr My wife went for furniture and accessories over creatures for now, and took to this graveyard archway. This was the first thing she painted, and came away going, "That was a lot easier than I thought it would be." Skeletal archer included for scale. Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures WZK73713 Bulette by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures WZK73713 Bulette by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures WZK73713 Bulette by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr My son liked the WizKids bulette figure. We tried a few things with him, not all successfully. I'd like to figure out how to blend things like the chest color and the body color better, and we're still learning the finer points of drybrushing. I do like that his mouth was just a few layers of a red wash, and I like some of the work on the body. The translucent base was a bunch of experimentation: matte varnish "primer" layer, a few layers of dark and brown washes to make it look like dirt, and then the brown disc under it after we noticed that the base tended to reflect colors of whatever was under it.
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