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Dan S

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Everything posted by Dan S

  1. These are phenomenal, PST is my favourite game of all time. Do you have plans to create the other companion characters?
  2. Thanks for the tip, all good suggestions that sound right up my alley, I'll have to take a look. I've just finished up a small rocking chair, I'd planned to add a bunch of empty cans, bottles and maybe an old newspaper. Finally a bit of leaf litter as I am working on a big tree that I would like to slightly over hang the building. Right now I'm in two minds about going a little halloweeny and abandoning the suburban theme in preference of a more horror movie isolated cabin vibe. I'm not sure yet.
  3. Thanks, I was a little unsure on the moss, I felt I'd over done it a bit.
  4. Finishing the Roof I used a wash over the roof, applying heavier streaks below the raised roof tiles to give the effect of streaking grime. Next I attempted to make my own weathering pigments using Pastel Chalks, normally I use Vallejo powdered pigments however I have limited colours and the pastels are so much cheaper, for less than the price of a weathering pigment set (4 pots) I was able to buy a box of 64 Pastels. To make the weathering powders I just rubbed the desired colours against a piece of sand paper, and applied the resulting dust by brush in the same way I'd apply normal weathering pigments. The colours I used were a mix of browns, orange and a light grey, which I used to lightly tint the roof and create streaks. I used a soft make up brush to blend the colours. Finally I used a sponge to stipple on some mossy greens. Over the top I dabbed on some patches of glue and sprinkled over some fine green flocks to create some patches of heavier moss growth. I also added some moss growth to the decking and rear step. I have a few small details to add yet, a old rotten rocking chair for the porch, some litter and debris etc, but I think I am going to start work on the street and garden next.
  5. Improving the Roof As stated previously I wasn't a big fan of the roofing material supplied in the kit, and felt things could be improved with a little extra work. I had planned to create my own tiles, but didn't relish the prospect of having to cut out and glue several hundred individual roofing tiles, and so compromised by using some laser cut tile strips. The strips are made of sticky backed card which can be easily cut to length. Starting from the bottom of each roof section, the tile strips were applied slightly slightly overlapping one another. The roof tiles are a little too big for the model and not quite to scale with the rest of the building, however I still prefer it to the original look. Once the whole roof was tiled, I used a craft knife to lift and loosen a few of the individual tiles and then primed the whole thing black. I then used some card board to shield the decking and back step, and then used the airbrush to speckle the roof with grey paint. I didn't want a thick solid colour, and so I sprayed from a distance and misted the surface of the roof until I achieved the desired look. Finally the roof was dry brushed fairly heavily in an off white creme colour, a second pure white drybrush was applied in sporadic vertical streaks. The next jobs will be to apply a wash to tone the white down a little, and to apply the weathering so that the roof fits the decrepit theme of the building but that's not likely to get started until next week now.
  6. It was actually the Vallejo rust paints that I used, no pig iron though. P.s - Nice Bonny Ann!
  7. I'm UK based. I have seen that stuff on Ebay, but the postage costs are ridiculous.
  8. The Family Car - Underpainting a Rusty Base A good suburban household scene wouldn't be complete without the family car parked on the drive. For this I used a cheap toy car that looked to scale with the house. However it was far too pristine and shiny for an end of the world scene, and would need to be aged and weathered considerably. I started by taking the car apart and then re-priming the body. I did not pay much attention to the interior of the car, as I will be dirtying up the windows at a later stage. Following the primer, the car was sprayed in a base coat of dark brown and then a second coat of terracotta was misted over it in sporadic patches to give the base rust colour. Once dry, I used some rust effect paints. First I used a sponge to stipple on some old rust, which is quite a thin dark brown paint with a slightly gritty texture to it. This effect was applied quite heavily over the whole of the model. From there I applied the new rust, which is quite a thick, and brighter orange paint, this was also stippled on over the model, but a lot more sparingly than the previous colour. The Family Car - Initial paintjob and weathering. To give a worn and chipped look to the paintjob I am going to be using the salt chipping method, if for no other reason than I have never tried it before and wanted to see how it turned out. I started by brushing water onto the areas where I wanted the heaviest weathering, in this case the roof, hood and trunk and then sprinkled coarse sea salt over the wet patches. The wet salt binds together and creates a crusty skin over the model. I also applied a coat of chipping medium to the sides of the car, where the salt would struggle to stick. Once dried I used to the airbrush to repaint the whole model. I used a pale off-white with a hint of blue, which is going to serve as the cars 'under coat'. Some of the salt will blow off when airbrushing, but that is fine it all adds to the end result. I kept the paint quite patchy, as I didn't want a clean new paint job. Once the paint is dry, the salt can be brushed off with stiff brush, revealing the rust below with some natural looking chips. The parts of the car that I had coated in chipping fluid were also scrubbed down with a damp brush in the same way I'd chipped the walls of the house, revealing the rusty metal below. The next step is to repeat the entire process, but this time painting the car blue so that I have a mix of under coat and rusty metal showing through for a more natural look.
  9. Painting the House - Part 2 Continuing on from last week, I started by filling the gap below the back door, I used some thin strips of balsa wood to create some additional clapboards at the base of the door, however this left the door looking too high off the ground, and so I cut and glued together a few pieces of wood to create a little door step. Next I began painting all the doors and window frames. They were painted in the exact same manner as the walls, using a base 'wood' colour, chipping medium and a top paint layer, the only difference being that I applied the final coat of paint by hand rather than with the airbrush as masking all the individual windows would have been a pain. The window and door frames were painted white to match the house, whilst the doors were painted brown. To further weather the building I applied a grey wash to the structure, and once that was dry I sponge stippled on some mossy green with an emphasis around the base of the house. Abandoning the roof The next step was starting the roof. I painted the whole thing black and then began to stipple on the first layers of dark grey with the intention of creating the look of a tar paper roof, but I didn't like the result. If I'd kept at it would have probably looked ok by the end, but I just wasn't 'feeling it'. I decided I would put in a little extra work and create some tiles to give the house a proper shingled roof, however that is going to take some time and so that's now a job for next week. The Porch With the walls windows and door all painted up, I could finally put up the front porch. This was then painted and weathered to match the colour of the walls. The decking was then stained with a sepia ink wash, and weathered with a mix of weathering pigments. With the wood decking complete I next erected the picket fence around the decking, which was again painted and weathered to match the house. As a final step I dry fitted the chimney, which I'd under painted in a variety of 'stone' colours, black washed and then dry brushed in a stone grey. Adding some steps. The kit was supposed to come with 2 sets of wooden steps, one for the back door and one for the front porch, however for whatever reason these steps seemed to be missing from my kit (I had the side sections to the steps, but no physical steps). This was a fairly easy fix however, using the sprue, the housing pieces came on, I cut away some small strips of wood and managed to improvise a set of wooden steps. With that done the house is pretty much complete, I just need to shingle the roof and maybe touch up a few small details, but overall I am fairly happy with the ancient abandoned look. The next job is to weather and rust up an old toy car I picked up, and start work on the garden and rest of the street.
  10. Dan's Build Journal #5 Post Apocalyptic Suburbia Most recent WIP pictures My Other Build Journals A while back, I purchased a small laser cut, wooden house kit on ebay, I thought it would make a nice project to practice some new painting and weathering techniques, however as is often the case with these things, it just ended up sitting on my shelf gathering dust. Anyway I managed to find some free time to sit down and start a new build this weekend, and figured now would be a great time to dust it off and start to put it together. Being a bit of an oddball, I am drawn to post apocalyptic settings, whether abandoned city ruins being reclaimed by nature, or barren desolate wastelands, I just love the aesthetic and atmosphere. As something a little different to my usual builds I wanted to attempt some kind of post apocalyptic suburban street, long abandoned, decrepit and overgrown. Unlike previous builds, this is likely to be a slow WIP with irregular updates, as I lack the free time I had a few months back. Assembling the House - Part 1 The centrepiece of the diorama is going to be a decrepit old house. The house I am using is a multi-part laser cut wooden kit by Banta Modelworks, it is a one storey building with a large front porch. Being made of very thin balsa wood, which is prone to warping (especially after being painted with acrylic paint) I started by sealing all the wooden parts with a coat of matt varnish. Once dry I began to partially assemble the house using wood glue. I assembled everything except for the roof of the front porch (as it would make painting the front wall difficult and hard to access) and the chimney. I also assembled all the little doors and windows (Ensuring that I 'smashed' a few of the windows for a more run down look) , but did not fit them to the house just yet because I planned to airbrush the walls and masking the windows with have been quite time consuming. Painting the House - Part 1 I had quite a specific look in mind for how I wanted the paint job for my building to look, searching online I found this picture to serve as a reference. I started by under-colouring the house in wood colours. After priming the house I used an airbrush to undercoat it in a dark brown. I then went over with a second lighter shade of brown, keeping the airbrush at a downward angle so that space below the embossed wooden slats remained a dark brown, giving a quick and easy basic highlight (zenithal highlight). Whilst waiting for the walls to dry, I started to apply the roofing material which is some kind of fiberous material that looks like tissue paper, but is much stronger. It is cut into 1" thick strips and then glued to the roof in overlapping sections. This covers up all the seam lines and gaps between the roof sections, and gives them a little texture. The next step was to apply the houses 'paint job'. To achieve the worn, chipped paint look, I first painted the walls of the house with Vallejo's chipping fluid (You can also use hairspray to the same effect), taking care not to get any on the decking of the porch or back step. Once dry, I painted over the walls again in pure white and left it to dry. With the white paint now dry I used a damp brush to agitate the white paint, with the chipping fluid underneath it the white paint brushes away easily in natural looking patches, showing the wood colour underneath. With the walls finished for the time being, I fitted all the windows and doors I'd assembled (They still need painting), and then undercoated the decking in a tan colour. I ran into a little trouble with the back door, none of the doors would fully fill the hole of the back doorway, leaving a fairly significant gap either above or below the door depending on how I positioned it. In the end I opted to glue the door in a little higher so the gap was at the bottom as I figured I could add some kind of improvised doorstep to hide it. I've still got quite a lot of work to do on the house, but I am fairly pleased with what I accomplished this weekend. I am not sure when my next update will, but I hope to get some more finished next weekend.
  11. Both! It is one of the dried grasses from dioramapresepe's range of plants, I just trimmed the tips off and used those as they are a bit too long for our 28mm scale otherwise. I cant recommend them enough, the guy who runs it is fantastic, every time I order I always end up with a little bonus in my box that I wasn't expecting. https://www.dioramapresepe.com/en/prodotto/coconut-high-dry-grass-bush-tall-grass-beautiful-diorama-landscape/
  12. I really like the whole steampunk aesthetic, looking forward to seeing how these turn out.
  13. I am not familiar with those models but I really like them, and that Walrus skin turned out really, really good!
  14. Finishing Up There was a fair bit more I wanted to add to this, however my home situation has changed quite drastically these past weeks and I am really struggling to find the free time right now. Whilst I may return to it at some point in the future to add those last details I talked about in my last post, right now I think I am probably about ready to call it done. I looks good enough for its intended purpose of a scenic photo backdrop. Since my last post I have filled in a few more of the gaps with various flowers bushes and grasses, but little else. There is probably not going to be another build journal anytime soon, but hopefully I will find my way back to it in a few months time or so. Anyway, here are the final pics.
  15. I don't have any experience with submerging bones miniatures, but I have submerged plenty of other plastic miniatures with no ill effects. On the topic of the heat, if you make several shallow pours over time, rather than one big deep pour then heat shouldn't be a big issue.
  16. Bringing the woods to life Today I made a start on the detailing work. As mentioned in my reply to Glitterwolf above, the plan was to box off the camp area with a ring of foliage, grasses and bushes etc in order to make the central camp the focal point, whilst still maintaining a lot of visual interest in the background. I started off by making some additional seafoam trees to fill in some of the gaps, I also made some smaller seafoam shrubs in the same way the trees were made. Next I started adding additional foliage and bushes using Javis clump foliage, and Greenstuff World's flowery bushes. I am about halfway done now, I still have a lot more plant life to add, as well as some small details around the camp such as the bed rolls, a chopping block and a pile of fire wood. I am also contemplating building a new spit (The one I posted the other week is too small and wont fit over the fire). Overall, despite a lack of free time I am pretty pleased with the progress so far, the project is slowly but surely starting to come to life, and I am really pleased with the effect that camp fire has.
  17. Constructive critique is always welcome! And I completely agree on the points you made. I had actually considered a more earthy forest floor (I've been watching HighEye Workshops forest tutorials on youtube, and wanted to give it a try myself). However I am now back at work and no longer have the copious amount of free time I had been blessed with these past few months, and so I opted to strike a compromise between realism and quick and easy. Also with the build I have in my head (I plan for a thick ring of vegetation around the camp to make it the focal point), I'm not sure you will even be able to still see much of the ground below the wooded areas, with what I have in mind. I'll try to get a picture up soon to better illustrate what I mean. I watch a lot of scenery and diorama builders on youtube, and I cant say I'd heard of that guy, but I am now subscribed, those pines look great.
  18. I am super busy at the moment and progress has slowed right down, however I had a free day today and managed to get a good chunk of work done. Preparing the Camp. Starting with the lean-to I painted the underside in various shades of brown before giving it a quick wash and drybrush. This was just a quick and messy paintjob as it is very difficult to make out the underside once it is flipped over. I painted the top in the same way (but using green). From there I went a step further, I applied a layer of PVA over the top and then sprinkled on several shades of flock, followed by a patchy layer of static grass. I then finished off by gluing on some dead leaves. The sitting log was just painted with a simple drybrush (thought I'd taken a picture, but it seems I was mistaken). At the moment I have mixed feelings about the camp elements as the scale doesn't quite look right from piece to piece. I haven't decided yet, but I might end up swapping a few pieces out, I have a small tent which would probably look more to scale than the lean-to (although I like the look of the lean-to more). Trees To make my trees I use Seafoam (Cuttings from a dried plant, which are popular with model railway enthusiasts), which makes really convincing trees with a little work. I started off by spraying the trunks and main branches brown (I also had a few plastic pine tree armatures which I also sprayed brown). Once the paint was dry, I sprayed the trees with a spray adhesive and then used a flock box to add the foliage. A flock box is a nifty little device that uses an electric current to draw static grass to an object in this case the trees. If you have ever seen someone make candy floss/cotton candy that is the best way I can describe it, it is like making a static grass candy floss. For the seafoam trees I used different shades of 2mm static grass, for the pine trees I used a darker and longer 4mm grass, as it looks more like pine needles. Finally I started gluing the trees into place. I underestimated how many trees I would need, I could probably do with adding a few more (3 or 4) once I have time again. Following that plan to start adding the undergrowth to make the wooded area appear more dense and and overgrown.
  19. Very nice! I've tried using Greenstuff a few times, but find it very difficult to work with. I am in awe of anyone who can produce such wonderful sculpts as this. I hope you will share again once he is all painted up.
  20. Final ground work. As mentioned in my previous post, I went ahead and scraped away and feathered the edge of the grass so it looked thinner, more patchy and worn around the camp area. I then used Vallejo powdered earth pigments to dust the exposed ground giving it a range of hues and a more natural look. (Its been a busy weekend, I didn't realise until now that I'd not taken any WIP shots of this stage) The Camp Fire I repainted the ring of stones around the fire pit so that the rocks looked more uniform. I then painted the grit in the base of the pit yellow, dry-brushing over gradually darkening shades of orange and red. I finished off by highlighting the tops of each piece of grit in pure black. It is quite a messy rushed paint job, but that is not a big deal as most of the coals will be obscured by the fire wood and ash. The next step was to create the flame. To do this I used a hot glue gun and created a swirl around the lightbulb, which I tapered to a point. Before the glue fully set I used an old brush to scour some lines through it and then gave it an all over yellow wash, once dry I gave the tip a red wash. The idea being the light given off would look a lot more fire like as opposed to the pure white of the LED. With the flame finished I moved on to the firewood, I cut small pieces from a thin twig and glued them together in a pyramid shape around the flame. I then used a black powdered pigment to dust the edge of the firepit and base of the firewood to give the impression of a build up of ash and cinders. I still need to tidy the fire up a little, the black pigment got everywhere and I need to try and vac some of it up, but other than that the fire is pretty much complete. The only issue now is that the fire (Because I build it around an LED) doesn't look to scale with the rest of the camp, it is a bit on the big side. Anyway here are a couple of shots of the fire all lit up in varying degrees of low light, I'm quite pleased with the effect.
  21. Initial Paintwork. I prepared the base in pretty much the same way I prepared the hill on my recent Hobbit Hole project, so if you followed that build then this is probably all old news to you. I started off by painting all the stone work with the Leopold Spot technique, I used Yellow Ochre and Burnt Sienna as my base colours (Acrylic paint, watered down to a wash) which I dabbed on sporadically with a heavily loaded foam brush allowing the wash to soak into the plaster and flow where it will. I made sure each rock was approximately 1/3 Ochre, 1/3 Sienna and 1/3 left white. Once dry I applied a more heavily watered down Burnt Umber wash over all the rock in order to blend the colours together whilst still allowing the under colour to show through. Finally I went over everything again with a final black wash. With the rocks complete I then painted all the floor in brown acrylic paint ready for flocking. Building the Firepit For the firepit I super-glued down small pieces of fish tank gravel to form a ring around the LED. Then within the ring, in order to hide the battery housing of the LED I applied very fine grit, which was glued in place with watered down PVA. Once the PVA is fully dried I intend to paint the grit yellow, and then highlight in oranges, reds and blacks to (hopefully) look like a bed of glowing coals and embers. After that I'll add firewood on top to hide the LED. I've no idea how this is going to turn out, working with LEDs is new territory for me, I've seen a few tealight campfires and the results are always hit and miss, so fingers crossed! Applying the Grass I used a static grass applicator to lay down the grasses. I started with a 2mm spring grass which I applied all over the model, I then used a layering spray and added some patches of 2mm Autumn grass over the top. Finally I switched to a winter grass, focusing it mainly on the higher ground and adding some longer yellowish patches starting at a 2mm grass and working up to a 6mm grass. I left a patch of un-grassed area around the the firepit, which looks 'off' and pretty ugly right now. Once I have painted the log and lean-to I am going to scrape away and feather the edges of the grass in areas that would see the most footfall, leaving it more patchy and bare in places. Finally I'll use dry weathering pigments to give the earth a more natural look. The plan is for the ground around the camp site to look more like the ground in my recent Ruined Tower build:
  22. Dan's Build Journal #4 The Ranger's Camp Finished Project Pics: My Other Build Journals: Well its been almost two weeks since I finished my last project, and that itch start a new build has flared up again. This time I am going to attempt some type of Ranger/Woodsman's Camp, which compared to my last couple of projects should be quite a straight forward and relatively simple build. Laying the Foundation. To build the foundation of this project, I cut out a piece of XPS foam to serve as the base and then used blocks of polystyrene which I'd cut with a hot wire tool to form the very basic shape and contours of the landscape. I want give to the illusion that the camp is quite secluded and well hidden and so it is going to be set up in a small clearing at the base of a wooded hill. I'm going to build the hill so that it sweeps around the camp, shielding it from three sides. During my recent Ruined Keep build, I'd started working on an LED campfire, but got cold feet and ended up abandoning the idea scared that I'd mess up and spoil the project. This time I am going to go for it. I removed the outer casing from a cheap flickering LED tealight, cut a small hole in the XPS foam base, and then hot glued the tealight into the hole so that only the LED was protruding above the surface. I'll come back to this at a later stage. The next stage was to get nice and messy with some Sculptamold, which I used to reshape the contours of the hill into something a little more organic and natural looking. I also added several plaster of paris rocks that I had left over from a previous project to add a bit of visual interest. The rocks were originally created using Woodland Scenic's Rock Moulds. The Sculptamold is applied quite thickly in places, and so it may need an extra day to fully dry. In the mean time I have a bunch of accessories to paint up and prepare, including a woodsman's lean-to, a roasting spit and a sitting log which I will likely start work on over the weekend.
  23. Thank you and no, I haven't played any tabletop games in years, none of my social group really share my nerdy interests . Still I enjoy building these things regardless, I just treat them as little art projects rather than playing pieces, maybe one day they will see action on a gaming table!
  24. Good job man. Also, thats the first beard I've ever seen that is a trip hazard!
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