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Poilu_1914

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Posts posted by Poilu_1914

  1. 3 hours ago, ManvsMini said:

     

    1) Bolded in the quote - LOL

    2) *sigh* Kids these days... but you should let them select more out of your bin because you hit this piece OUT OF THE BALLPARK.

     

    I second that motion, let them pick more if this is the result!

    • Like 2
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  2. 19 minutes ago, Inarah said:

    The clears are "pure pigment" colors.  So clear red is just red pigment in a medium, no blue or white or other colors added to it.  Clear magenta is pure magenta pigment not mixed with anything else, etc.  You can use them to glaze over other colors. They are very good for blending. 

     

    There's another discussion here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/46251-reaper-clear-paint-colors-like-clear-red-clear-blue-etc/

     

    And here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/73265-reapers-clear-colours/

     

    And:https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/49997-how-clear-are-reapers-clear-paints/

     

    https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/25886-what-are-clear-brights-used-for/

     

    https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/89063-clear-colors/

     

    https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/19454-master-series-color-question-clear-colors-paint-or-glazes/

     

    Thanks! These are super helpful. I think I'll try out red as I have a few figures I'm working on that will have a lot of red in them.

    • Like 2
  3. Update: finished the heart-shaped jewel and adjusted the curve in the belly gem. The top two white highlights are paint dots on the heart, the lower middle highlight in the heart and the big middle one in the belly gem is glare from my lighting source (a headlamp, rather primitive but it works).

     

    IMG_0646.jpeg

    • Like 3
  4. 13 hours ago, Rob Dean said:

    Casualty figures are relatively scarce.  I have a bunch for my 28mm Dark Ages figures, but most of them don’t match any specific standing figures.

     

    I like the idea; I’ve been collecting up vintage sets of mounted and dismounted adventurers, though no downed versions.

     

    PS.  BTW, if it’s really an orc casualty, it’s probably a Heritage Lord of the Rings movie orc.

    PPS: “Compleat” spelled in that form usually means “skilled”.

    PS. Looks like one of the half orc casualty figures.

    PPS. Learn something new every day!

  5. 2 hours ago, Jeepnewbie said:

    I really like this concept. I know that rap part has did a couple different minis mounted and foot. Along with a three pack of minis (say a thief) in different poses or gear. 
     

    I do wish there was more casualty markers. Seems like we get knocked unconscious quite often when the rest of the party can’t make a game. 

    I agree, back when I actually gamed (haven't played RPG since 1980, used to play Chivalry & Sorcery) we were always checking the stores to see who might have casualty figures. I have found a few at Wargames Foundry. Mostly historical though but you could do a knight in all three poses with their 100 Year War line.

  6. 5 hours ago, William said:

    Very nice. Gems and water are the bane of my painting experience. 

    This is one of the tutorials I used. You can click each step, very easy to follow. Haven't tried water yet :lol:

     

    http://www.necrotales.com/necroTutorials/tut_gemstonesf.php

    13 hours ago, ManvsMini said:

     

    I have to ask, how do you like the Foundry line of paints? I have been wanting to try them for years, never taken the plunge on them. They are hard to get here in the States, and what I know of them I've learned from a painter's blog who stopped updating a few years ago (and even then he was starting to replace the ones he'd used up with other brands simply due to how hard they are to find). How would you compare them to other brands (I primarily use a mix of Vallejo and P3)?

    I really like them, very comparable to reaper paints. I do prefer the bottle style with the little shelf that holds a small amount of paint, I feel it keeps wastage down. If you do historical, like Civil War, World Wars, Napoleonic, etc., they have paints sets you can buy for those periods, makes it way easier. I personally order the paints directly from their site, they are pretty fast at sending them out.

    14 hours ago, BLZeebub said:

    Looks pretty excellent, especially for a first try.  Second pic is really convincing.  If anything (at least for the method you're using), maybe make the lighter green more of a crescent shape so the black is a larger proportion of the gem.  Something roughly like 60% black/30% strong green/9% brighter green in the strong green/1%white.  Or break the black up into a green so dark it's indistinguishable from black.  On gems a lot of time less is more with the gem color--the dark, the highlights (yours are great, btw), and the contrast between them are what really sell the gem image.

    Great work!

     

    6 hours ago, Kangaroorex said:

    I Would Be very proud of that gem.  You pulled of the very rich dark green perfectly.  I might improve the crescent, I'll leave that to others, but I wouldn't change the ratios

     

    Great job and thanks for sharing! 

    Thanks for all the advice! I see what you mean about the crescent. I'll try to fix that. Next gem on my list will be the heart-shaped one on his chest.

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