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Everything posted by TheDungeonDelver

  1. Ah, it's these: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/werner klocke elf/sku-down/06122 Same but not exactly the same poses.
  2. Hey all... I have a ... uh, war-band? Army? Regiment? Buncha? anyway, whatever the unit size in Warlord is back when Reaper did the boxes that were 10 regular troops, a lieutenant, and a leader (and a familiar). I don't play Warlord, but I would like to use the minis on the tabletop for AD&D games. While I'm OK with painting the 2 commanders (Nirodiel and Danithal) individually, "character level" if you will, the other elves I would prefer just to get done. Any tips anyone can share? What shade should I start with, etc.
  3. Well, there's plenty of good advice in this thread, but let me throw in this option: hollow bases. Secret Weapon Miniatures makes hollow 25mm (and larger) bases, beveled and angled edge both. You simply sit the miniature in the hollow and fill the space with green stuff, Apoxie, or whatever, and voila.
  4. I went halfway there; I dug thru my parts box and got a large cap from a gallon OJ jug and used a hefty amount of Elmer's Glue, et voila! I'll let it set a bit longer (did it around midnight last night) before I pick it up and start painting with it. I've got other projects to work on (like Monique deNoir as Drelzna...)
  5. Update: the blue ink does NOT oversaturate the Surf Aqua paint! The shading is deep, and wonderful. Now if only I could find an armature big enough to mount him on so I could stop touching him and rubbing primer and paint off while working on him :( Once he's done, I'll post up pictures of Lludd the Behir.
  6. I thin it pretty heavily; I only put a thin wash of primer on top of the metal as I find any primer (spray or brush) can hide details.
  7. Okay, I have a couple of different washes (well, one's a wash, and another's an ink). I have an old Pro Paint stock no. 19106 Flesh Ink. I also have an MSP9253 Flesh Wash. What's the best way to utilize each?
  8. This is how I do it, too. If you are not painting for competitions or something work-related: This is the way to do it. You can continue this process way past tabletop quality, or just do a single draft to get a mini ready for play. It's basically how I paint now and for tabletop it's the best. Base dark, ink-wash, highlight-highlight-highlight done.
  9. Sure; the cover of S4 Lost Caverns of Tsojcanth: The alternating scale bands plus the belly, head and legs... (That's not a great picture in terms of color: trust me, it's more teal than that)
  10. If we're talking about heavily overlapped scales, I would: Take a base-coat of the darkest of a given triad (let's say red). Make sure you get in and under each overlapping scale. Then take red ink, do a 50/50 mix, and wash that sucker, get some good shadows on him, make sure every nook and cranny gets a drink! Dry brush a highlight of your middle color. Dry brush a highlight of your lightest color. If you want more highlights, do a 50/50 mix of pure white + lightest color and dry brush that on. You can keep going up, with lighter and lighter dry-brushings, until finally you're at or near pure white, then call it done.
  11. Roger that. I don't have the Marine Teal yet, it's on order sadly. Still, it'll give me time to clean him up a bit. I erroneously started doing him in DARK blue on his bands so I need to clean him up quite a bit before I start the real work painting him...
  12. So I have a nice stock of Reaper inks, which is cool. And I've used them before to brilliant effect. Love 'em. With that said, I'm painting a Behir for my ongoing S4 AD&D game. On the cover, the beastie has a decidedly teal/blue-green belly. For reference here's a similar critter in Reaper's catalog, the Cavern Crawler: (WAY better looking than all the "official" offerings from D&D Minis or GF9 - they're both too fat!) Anyway... I'm using the Ocean triad to get the shade of blue I want (Deep Ocean, Marine Teal, Surf Aqua, 9076, -77 and -78, respectively) and I'm wondering about shading with an ink. I've got both Blue Ink and Green Ink...which do you guys think will work better for the traditional S4/Monster Manual II Behir, blue or green? Or should I do a wash of Deep Ocean instead, and base with Marine Teal and highlight with Surf Aqua and a final highlight of 50/50 Surf Aqua + Pure White? I just don't wanna get in there and start putting blue ink on and everything get stained navy blue, or green and everything go all grass colored on me.
  13. I was looking to get some more Reaper inks - they're quite nice, love 'em - and was wondering if they've been discontinued or are just out of stock, or what exactly the status was.
  14. I think I've got it. I'll post up results when I get to the project.
  15. Will Apoxie ("grey stuff", I guess?) work the same? I mean, it should...
  16. Thanks everyone, I'll try those methods; worst case scenario I'll buy the Dark Sword guy and fiddle with his glasses a bit.
  17. I'm doing a mod on a miniature for a friend, and the mini itself is perfect for my needs, except I need the figure to be wearing glasses. Can anyone lend a suggestion on how to do those or even better point me at a mini that has "detached" glasses I could snip off and use for this project? Thanks in advance!
  18. Not often. Just every time I paint. I actually did flatten one mini once in frustration when I was first starting. It was strangely satisfying and at the same time saddening. Do you know what the key to learning to paint is? Ignore how good other people's minis look and paint to your satisfaction first. If your mini looks good, if you like it, if your friends like it, if it looks good on your table, THEN YOU ARE A GOOD PAINTER. That fifty-layers-of-shading-and-highlight and true-light-sourced from 13 angle non-metallic metal armor, on the base of hand-poured acrylic water and birch seed pods kitbashed so the figure is playing a lute instead of standing with its hands behind its back, the one that won 5 golden demon awards and gets an average rating of 11 on coolminiornot.com? yeah, forget about that. Image block it in firefox. One, that mini isn't meant to be gamed with. Two, that mini looks good in a photograph in a lightbox/setting made perfect just for it. Three, those grapes are sour anyway. Four, entirely serviceable paint jobs are "7-worthy". I think about those things when I'm ready to chuck a mini across the room.
  19. Danger Will Robinson! Random/wild speculation abounds in this response! I have had Reaper MSPs turn to glop over the course of a couple years (yes I'm that slow a painter). I have some of the jars of the previous line (pro paints - think about how long those have been out of production) that are still as fresh and flowing as the day they were made. I think it varies based on storage, how often you mix them, etc. I do know that adding a little distilled water or flow improver can help.
  20. Actually they are hobbiest. My friend Peter started thier company with his brother Ken to make collectibles because growing up they could not afford any toys in their household. They are pretty global and have an excessive infatuation with american adventure and horror movies so they know what is going on. Now outside of the above they all follow their own culture for mythos with subjects like the Monkey King http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Sun_Wukong Tolkien and Euro fantasy is something they have a hard time wraping their brain around. Best Ed Soooo...when do you guys start releasing the chinese mythological minis? 'cause THAT would be awesome.
  21. Yah; as far as getting paints anywhere else, even the stores I really really like I know that paint has been sitting there for forever. I've been to stores and browsed paints in racks that were within eyeshot of the cash register and you could see from there that the paints were separated (badly) or that the dropper bottles were pointing nose-down (which means LOTS of sediment in the dropper tip), and paints that had been there for a year or more...yet the clerks/owners just sold 'em anyway. That's kinda BS. The "gaming warehouse" here I shop at, I'll test the paint before I pay for it and if it's a watery mess that stops after a pinhead sized drop, or a thick goop that won't stop flowing, etc. I'll just tell 'em "this is defective, please go get me another" (I mean they're cool with it, I'm cool with it...)
  22. Best bet is to just paint like crazy, define for yourself what constitutes "like crazy" and then go from there. If "like crazy" is 16 hours a day knocking out 2-3 tabletop/display quality minis then yeah you might consider the airbrush. If however you're like me and knock out one tabletop quality mini a week and maybe two or three army quality a day, maybe hold off on the airbrush.
  23. Ah. Well, be that as it may I may green ink wash them because they're not "orange" they're straight up tan. I'll be sure to specify next time I'm at the store (they do a warehouse pick when you go in to shop). Please note, again, this is not a complaint per-se, I was just makin' sure I didn't get an off batch: if you'd come back and said "Whoa, wait a second, that shouldn'tve happened." then we'd know something was amiss. :) Carry on making great stuff!
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