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About MiniWargamer

  • Birthday 07/16/1953

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    Lubbock, TX
  • Interests
    All things wargame related...

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  1. One of the blogs I follow regularly has been doing some WW1 in the last few months. Take a peek at: http://grimsbywargaming.blogspot.com/2008/...t-war-game.html There are other posts on the blog about WW1 stuff as well with some good references on the left (at the bottom). They use 28mm stuff and platoon/company level and a *free* rules set. I've been looking at Iron Ivan games' rules lately and them are tempting me to get into the period. Another era that Iron Ivan does that has attracted a lot of attention in Austin is the Spanish Civil War with the rules Primera Battala (the link isbelow.) http://www.ironivangames.com/quartermaster.html You can check out the Force of Arms miniatures at the Great Hall Games site: http://www.greathallminis.com/SpanishCivilWar/index.htm They are nicely done and you can play anything from the Abraham Lincoln Brigade to anarchists to communists to socialists!
  2. I have not posted much the last couple of months due to my move to Utah. Since I will not be able to attend Reapercon this year because of that, I'm going to try and improve my skills via the forum. Here's a Reaper Priest I just finished up which was a lot of fun to paint. Before I started, I was a tad daunted by the detail but as I worked on it, everything seemed to flow well. (Maybe because I was absorbed in the audio book World War Z....) Anyway, comments solicited... The figure comes attached to the paving stones directly underneath him. I placed him on a large washer as I wanted him to be stable and to add a bit more to the figure basing-wise. There is a lot of little detail that add character to the figure... seams on patches, pouches with varied textures, and so on. I'm still working on my lighting setup as it tends to be *too* bright and drown out some of the detail. As an example, his bald head is lighter right above his forehead and gets darker as you move back but it doesn't show that well in the photo. As an aside, anything that looks *good* about this, I probably learned at ReaperCon. So if you are thinking about attending but wonder if the experience is worth the $$$$, I suggest not thinking it over but doing it!
  3. Robart makes a good paint shaker that I bought specifically for use with Vallejo. WeeToySoldiers blog also has a good article on how to cobble together a paint shaker for tabletop use.
  4. I also like Hyun's paint shaker here: http://www.weetoysoldiers.com/wp/?p=217 Warning - large video that autostarts when you click on the picture.
  5. I got one of these when I started using Vallejo Model Colors. I love the shaker and became disenchanted with Vallejo paints. I still use it on my Reaper paints if they are grainy or I have added flow improver. I can continue to work on something else while it's shakin' and movin'.
  6. Hey, who let this guy in! Where's the bouncer(s)!!!! Don't they know he's a historicals guy who's also been known to associate with LoTR players!!???!!! Glad you enjoyed the Paint and Take and got into the Reaper MSPs. They're great stuff! mike cannon
  7. There are a couple of Yahoo groups that I am a member of that are aimed at getting things done and have monthly voting for bragging rights: Army Painting: http://games.groups.yahoo.com/group/armypainting/ Complete Your Project: http://games.groups.yahoo.com/group/Comple...gamingProjects/ The philosophy behind these is that one a month you put pictures of your completed stuff into a folder on the groups and members vote on the best. The Army Painting group involves units of 5 models of more (say for 28mm) and less than one hour of time per figure. The Project group covers a wide gamut of stuff - websites, game boards, conversions, whatever floats your boat at the moment. Worth checking out if you occasionally need motivation and they are low post count groups. We might even be able to do something like that here on the forums.
  8. I know a number of people that use nails to glue stuff on with white glue and then handle the nails only. If you have a big piece like a Slann, it's probably a good idea to use a number of nails in a piece of wood, then seal the top/painted portion, and then pop it off and paint the bottom before mounting.
  9. Thanks, this one uses woodland scenics ballast applied with superglue and then covered with black paint. I drybrushed in different colors of green and blue and added the grey rocks. I used EnviroTek resin that had a smidgin of blue and green ink in it for the glossy water and added the grass before the resin dried (so it should be in there *real* good!) To control where the resin went, I used a toothpick to place the liquid.
  10. Actually it's a function of the painter! ;-) It is pretty stark, it....
  11. Thanks for the comments! I noticed that the posts have had around 75 views so far and you are the only one brave enough to take a stab at posting on it. Either it's perfect or people are running in horror at the sight of it! It's funny how forums work sometimes.....
  12. Ishil had expressed a desire for a female miniature when we exchanged emails (I had asked what he wanted). I used the female Wizard shown here and painted her as if she was a water wizard.... Comments, as always, appreciated. This is one of the first female miniatures I have worked on. I do need to work on the lighting/photography as she is kindda washed out here.
  13. My brother used to own the board game "Mousetrap" back in the ... gulp ... 60s. Reminds me of that!
  14. Are they 28s or 15s? And do you know the manufacturer?
  15. I posted a note from Judi Northwood on my site at: that addresses the issue of chalkiness.
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