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Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Kormydigar

  1. Much better than the bare base! Old expired spices are great for basing. I would advise putting a coat of sealer over it to protect it from hungry critters.
  2. The base could use a little love. The hair is really awesome though.
  3. Its a druid right? I say paint it as a carrot and let it be a carrot! Nothing says I don't take this threat seriously quite like a slap across the face with a carrot.
  4. I have never had a problem with Testors Dullcote.
  5. Heartwood Brown? What paint range is that from? Good job on those tiny Garrity eyes.
  6. I usually keep a mixture of anti-shine in a large dropper bottle to add to inks. The mixture is made up of matte medium, water, and a bit of flow improver. I just mix in a little at a time until the shine is largely gone.
  7. I am not sure how well the liner would work on a metal mini since it is not actually primer. Works well enough for bones plastic though.
  8. Another method to smooth out areas of a mini prior to priming is to apply a few coats of varnish and allow it to dry. This is especially useful if the surface has pits in it. A brush can't help with those as much, but a coat of varnish can provide a smooth surface to prime and paint.
  9. Oh ok. So they are the same size pots that they use for their textured basing mixes. I might try out a couple colors then. No way would I buy a little pot for that price.
  10. I really like the color on that Papa Smurf ogre.
  11. Another material that comes in handy is good old drywall spackle. You can get it in small tubs on the cheap and they make some that is bright pink when wet but it dries white,so you can tell when it is all dry. It isn't strong like milliput or green stuff but for large areas of rocky surface it is much cheaper.
  12. If you are using modeling paste to fill the gaps on white bones you can mix in some craft paint to give it some color, making it easier to see. I made my own liquid "green stuff" like this when filling in minor gaps while assembling Khanjira.
  13. If you want a more matte finish to your inks, mix the ink in a solution of matte medium and water. I like to keep a bottle of matte medium and water mix (roughly 2/1 water to medium mix with a few drops of flow improver thrown in) handy in a dropper bottle so it is available to drop into inks for matte applications.
  14. One reason the female model is a bit smaller is that she is a different species. He is storm giant, the largest of giantkind, and she is a cloud giant. Cloud giants are a bit smaller on average than storm giants. I like the smurfy color scheme.
  15. What level of finished product are you going for? Everyone has different standards for what they consider to be "good enough" for tabletop. The techniques you use can depend on this. For my rank and file tabletop jobs I use a quick 3 layer process. I lay down a base coat that is usually mid to light tone, then shade quickly with washes, followed by a few touch ups with highlight colors. Textured surfaces get the dry brush treatment. I only do the most basic eyes and don't spend much time picking out fine details. If I have a group of similar minis then I will do them assembly line because it is more time efficient to keep working with a color once I have it on my brush. Also the assembly line method allows things to dry properly between stages. Having a mini finished in an evening feels good but If I have a squad of a dozen to do and get them done over three or four evenings then I'm still coming out way ahead on time.
  16. If the minis are primed well, then they can be handled without touching the lead at all.
  17. It won't help with plastic but for metal applications (especially ones that look like a major pain to drill) I forgo pinning and assemble the parts with JB weld epoxy instead of glue. You will need to make sure your work space is well ventilated and mix a much smaller amount than you would think. Be very careful applying the mixture and wipe off any that goes somewhere you don't want it immediately before it sets. Once it dries you will have a very strong bond. I have dropped metal giants assembled this way on concrete floors. The paint took a beating but the joints didn't budge.
  18. Nice paint jobs. I really like the colors on the Sackville Baggins pieces. I recognize that ranger. He is one of the three stage character models Ral Partha did in the late 80's . He came in a blister pack with two other models. Each pack was supposed to have 3 versions of the same adventurer with varying grades of equipment to represent progression through gaining levels. You may have two more versions of this fellow with better armor in that pile somewhere.
  19. Cool face. He is certainly giving a look. I can't tell if its blue steel or magnum.
  20. Great work so far! Welcome to the money pit that is miniature collecting and painting.
  21. I have never had a problem with regular plastic minis using spray primer. Only bones reacts funky to standard spray. Army Painter spray primer is terrific on bones so I just use it for everything now.
  22. One thing that might help smooth out the texture would be a coat or two of gloss sealer and let it dry before applying primer.
  23. You can get quite a good steel from just Reaper Blade Steel and Blue Liner. I like to do a solid base coat in blue liner, highlight with the blade steel then glaze with the blue liner.
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