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Moxtopus

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  1. I'd like a solid Reaper speed paint option. These look like they might fill the need, but the variation of the shadows to highlights look a bit muted. The best upside I can see from speed watching the video is the washes seem to be fairly close in color from application to dry. My biggest criticism of AP's speed paints is the color variation from the time of painting to a dried look. Reaper is my favorite paint brand, for many reasons. So, I'm happy to have any new product lines come out. Hopefully there will be a set for these so I can just pick up all the colors at once. It looked to me like a lot of the issues were from the video being compressed. I thought they were all splotchy at first, but when I looked at her fingers, those had artifacts/ splotchy lines, too. So, I'm thinking it was an issue either at recording or when being posted on YT versus the paint.
  2. I'm not familiar with Chitubox, but try looking at your printer and resin settings. It's possible that the settings were returned to default or adjusted by the update. If the problem persists, I would use Mango's Lychee slicer to eliminate the slicer and settings as the issue before going too far down the hardware troubleshooting. Lychee is very easy to use. Just set the 3d printer setting to what you own, then the resin setting for what medium you're using. Then import the files you want to test print, use auto-orient, and then auto-add supports and slice it. If that works, then it's probably an issue somewhere with Chitubox. If it still fails, then I would start hardware troubleshooting, starting with a deep clean.
  3. A word of caution, printing functional pieces and tools is a lot different than printing minis. There are greater safety risks and different workflows for printing something that will come under stress. If the intent is to use it for tool holders and the like, you will likely need to go outside of mini printing for what you or your family would want for tutorials. The filaments you'll want are the stronger types, which are not normally used for mini printing. You'll also want to make the print stronger through your settings, like infill pattern. The downsides are that the stronger filaments require higher temperatures, so you may have to upgrade your printer parts (I'm not familiar with the model you bought so I don't know it's max temps). With higher temps there's other settings you'll want to tweak to make sure your prints come out well. For the strength of the structure, you'll want to tweak the settings to make it more solid than a typical mini. The downside here is that it takes longer to make more solid pieces. You'll also probably want to keep a more controlled environment for printing than the standard hobby printer. Any moisture or other environmental factors can lead to catastrophic failures when printing or when the piece is being used. I recommend searching around YT, reddit, and other sites for good tool and functional parts tutorials. The last thing you probably want is someone having the pieces you printed shattering or splitting on them.
  4. If I didn't count my old school, Warhammer, self-printed, or board game minis, then Reaper would be my top brand. Comparing wargames/board games to rpg minis is kind of apples and oranges to me. You need a lot of minis for those games. I have a lot of Reaper minis because I collect them. I don't collect any other rpg mini brands.
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