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About Bodhi

  • Birthday 10/22/1966

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  • Location
    Stockholm - Sweden
  • Interests
    Sculpting, painting, drawing, SCUBA-diving, singing, cooking, climbing, Aikido, Anatomy

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  1. No they're 28 mm (to the eyes) models, male standard. And they're not tiny, the other companies make huge figures. I've tried a couple of times to sculpt in the reaper scale but fail completely as I have no idea what I'm going to do with those wast expanses of space. Don't know how others do it. Hasslefree size is the maximum size in which I've managed to get anything done. I allways use them as reference. The old Call of Cthulhu range - that's 25 mm figures. And they're way shorter than the hasslefree figures. Even though they're usually chubbier in style. And as for the size issue. Alternate with some 15 mm figures now and then and Hasslefree figures will soon start to look huge.
  2. Got 62 sculptures started. NONE finished The usual ratio...
  3. Main reason not to use polymer clays (such as sculpey) for 28 mm (and thereabouts...) minis is that the spincasting used for making lead/pewter figures will break the sculpey figures. The Rackham sculptors as well as the sculptors for infinity use sculpey quite a lot. They use different (and more expensive) casting methods. For a figure that is not intended for casting sculpy is just fine though you'll end up with a fairly fragile figure. You wouldn't want to drop it, whereas I've tossed a figure made from green stuff out from the eight floor unto stone pavement (for demonstration purposes) without it breaking at any point. A sculpey figure would shatter in small pieces if I did something similar. I have small children so durability is a MAJOR concern when the four year old runs away with my figures and I find it three weeks later under the sofa... The sculpting technique is also quite different from the technique used for epoxy putties (such as green stuff) and once you've gotten used to the technique for one of the mediums you may find it hard to switch. I started with sculpy but since using epoxy putties for many years I find polymers very difficult to work with now.
  4. No I don't agree. People paying money for sculpts surprisingly often are NOT critical enough. I'd say about 10% of what is being sold is good enough to be sold in my eyes. And I've seen some stuff that hasn't been sold that is better than some stuff that IS being sold. So it's no safe measure of quality. Sellability isn't necessarily the same as quality.
  5. Arms look wrong in SO many places. And the abdominal muscles don't follow the movement at ALL. Good paintjob of a... not very good sculpture.
  6. Make that 95% in my case But that just means I have a 5% success rate. Not to shabby When it comes to drawing I have 1% and when it comes to building and constructing stuff I have a smashing 100% failure rate (thumb in the middle of my hand is an expression we use here in Sweden...)
  7. Sculpting SKILL is 2% sculpting WORK is 98%. Experience and improvement in sculpting comes from sculpting. Honestly what is everyone so afraid of? It's a lump of clay. Easy to throw away if you're unhappy. Just have at it!
  8. Tools are a personal thing. Some people use a myriad of different tools. Some use very little. Tom Meier is very sparing in his tool set I've understood. So whatever works for you. If tooth picks do the job for you by all means use toothpicks. If you feel that they don't perhaps try something else. You COULD put some superglue on the figure, attach the greenstuff and then sculpt away but if you're not happy with the result it will be hard to remove. So I'd say use just the greenstuff without any superglue and then sculpt away. It will stick well enough. If you're unhappy it's easy to pull of and if you're happy but want a strong bond you can pull it of and then add some superglue and push it back on. You'll have a perfect contactsurface for it by then anyway. As for painting it I'm no expert but it seems like it would be a bit hard to hold on to a tiny hat if it wasn't attached to the figure so perhaps it's easiest to paint it ON the figure?
  9. Just DO IT! NOW! While you're waiting for greenstuff start practicing with whatever you have at hand. Plasticene, even candle wax in a pinch. Practice practice practice is the main teacher and you have NOTHING to lose. Good luck And don't be scared to post your results here. Everybody is very friendly and helpful around this forum and will likely give you pointers as you work on your sculpting.
  10. Heh! I had me one of those haircuts to for a couple a years. Was a pain to get it to stand though. My teen is more into the whole J-pop/goth thingy. Nina Hagen is the only punkartist she likes really. Oh and Siouxie and the Banshees of course.
  11. Is that a challenge? I'll just have to find out now.
  12. I'm more often surprised by the sheer number of "Twentysomethings" you meet that are boringly adult in the most negative sense of adultness (rigid thinking and conformity as an ideal). So I rarely feel old compared to those people.
  13. College? Well In Sweden we have a different education system. My favourites in "Gymnasiet" (the closest equivalent) where Swedish and English.
  14. That's OK. So far I have her resting on the tips of her left arms fingers only with the other arm raised for striking. Midpoint of a charging jump from above against a much larger adversary. But your figure helped greatly with the posing of the armature anyway.
  15. Thanks for taking the time to post WIP steps. An incredible help for all of us who are trying to learn. The leaping pose is brilliant! Been trying to make one for a while now but never was happy about the posing of the feet. Now I know just how to go about it. Thanks! (hope it's not IP theft to nick a pose... )
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