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Everything posted by drjsallison

  1. Just attend any ReaperCon and the hotel will be littered with drunk painters and gamers. ShinerCon is an ongoing thing.
  2. Thanks...although you'll have to explain to me what the "Sokar has Beer" award is "Sokar has beer" was the mantra at ReaperCon 06 after party dubbed "ShinerCon". Its a play on the Nefsokar faction ability 'Sokar is near".
  3. Perhaps even cooler than...gulp...MONKEYS.
  4. I have a special place in my heart for historical pieces and these look good. Individual close-ups would be nice, but I am happy that you shared these. Nice work.
  5. If u don';t win the contest at least you should get the "Sokar has Beer" award.
  6. I absolutely love your WWII pieces. The first time paint job is stunning. It took me years to paint that well. Thanks for sharing.
  7. I like this piece and you did a good job on her. The camera is so aweful when it comes to metalics. I have seen some demi-metalic work that comes off well with the camera. I am sure there is a tutorial or WIP giving details. IMHO I don't really think she needs anything more unless you are going for show/contest quality.
  8. I was actually OK with this mini until the stool comment at the end. Now I am ashamed that I actually looked several times to find it
  9. Any indication when we may get a sneek peek of 014549, Reptus Dragonrider Broodmaster? Noticed the data card actually has a model number assigned to it so hopefully soon™ .
  10. Looks like my only hope of getting a prize will be as a bribe so I don't try and send them my special brand of stink ever again.
  11. As a fat, old and ugly guy, I find it sad that he is prettier than me. Just curious what Reaper Clark had to say about this guy.
  12. Simple and Stoney. Love the eyes evil glint and bright toothy smile. (He must floss daily)
  13. Your use of color is brilliant. Very crisp looking work.
  14. If you want to get a quick start you can use clear spray paint (or a color close to the desired base color). It will eat right into the foam and leave a nice trench. I use this on game boards for valleys and riverbeds. Saves ALOT of time, but its tricky to control.
  15. I strongly suggest care in using this technique. Most metal minis, especially Reaper are made of a tin alloy (90-96% typically). The melting point of tin is 449 degrees and some alloys can lower that point to as low as 394 degrees. The "cure point" tends to be around 250 degrees for most of these alloys. In a 250 degree oven, it can be possible to distort the details on the mini if the metal has lost its cure. On the other hand, I have used this type of dry curing method on tin before to ensure a smooth phosphorus coat before electoless copper coating. 200 degrees should be theoretically safe, though.
  16. Wow, those are some busy minis! Despite my dislike of the sculpts, the paint job is wonderful! I like the way the colors contrast to give them a creepy appearance. The slimy tenticals are a nice touch and the armor is just fantastic. Perhaps some darklining...... Just Kidding!
  17. Erin, that has to be the best brief synopsis of procedure I have read in a long time. Its so clear that I feel like I could take your recipe and do it myself without any guesses an to which step to take next. Killer job on the mini. I like the conversion, especially since you got Bob to do it for you. All around impressive.
  18. All paint is made of solid pigments. Spray paint is no exception. There are many grades of spray primer from a standard "grit" to ultra fine. Many basic primers like Krylon are intended for large, porous surfaces. Using them on smooth finishes and tiny minis tend to give you the oppertunity to see just how coarse they really are. The thicker the layer, the less noticeable it becomes. Unfortunately, at thet point, the fine details of a mini become obscured. There are much better alternatives. Tamiya makes an amazing fine surface primer geared specifically toward the scale modeler and works wonders on minis. There are also some high end automotive grade spray primers that work well. Airbrush paint is typically fine and will work as well. Unfortunately there is no secret to getting cheap primer to perform well on a consistant basis. You really do get what you pay for. Take the loss and start anew with a primer geared more specifically to fine surface work.
  19. The mini is absolutely fantastic! The only bit of critique I can give is with the Photo-fu. There are too many shadows. If you use more light sorces, it will eliminate that. Im still floored by how well the mini is painted .
  20. Thats cool in a creepy Alfred Hitchcock sort of way.
  21. My latest piece of work. For some reason, I cant help but to have a Red Dawn moment when I pick up this piece. As always, lemme know what you think.
  22. Some topcoats are funny that way. Heat and humidity are the enemy when it comes to sealing a mini. Spend a few extra bucks and grab a can of Testors Dullcoat. It handles better than most in hot climates. To repair the issue, you may simply need to re-spray the afflicted mini in a more controled environment. If the finish isn't too thick or layered, it usually fixes the problem.
  23. Its funny, cause as I was uploading the pics, I was thinking to myself: "Jabberwocky is gonna tell me more darklining." Its comforting that some of us can know each other that well!
  24. This is a little something I worked up for game play. I wanted them to be eye catching to potential new players. Yall are my favorite critics. I want my next batch to be better so let me have it. Despot: Cenetepede: Infantry: The Whole Crew:
  25. Looks good from what I can see. Even when I click the pic to enlarge it, its too small to pick out the fine details. Perhaps a bigger pic is in order.
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