matsumoto

Warlord Miniatures = Obvious side-show ploy for a GW bigwig to try and undercut an American product before it can infringe upon their well-trained and loose-wallet fantasy/40k fans in the states...by hitting up a possible rise in US historicals market? i almost admire their ruthlessness. and damn, those mini's look good! still, i have yet to chose...

Frenzy: allows you to trade MAV for Extra Attacks, right? and how many hits does it take to drop a skellie? two??? you could get 6 attacks out of a single Wolf, eh??? max out Frenzy and the receiver will be pleading most defensive strikes hit.... PS: have not played the latest update, but with the Korbolas as a faction i am PUMPED!!!!! (mayhaps i should post what i've been painting....)

Dragon. add dragon to anything.... seriously, THIS is a Hawt model, very well worth goign forth and kicking with, nonetheless painting and owning... BTW: i do see a Hydra on the up and coming list, plus, in the RC 08 update: --Spikeshell Warriors ??? lil' turtles we can field??? please, do tell....

Actually, it is crazy cool... I agree with all the color mis-match deal....but i find the Bling teh most jarring. why not go tribal necklaces and solidify... eh. i am not gonna further comment WGAS.

WTF??? FoG has DBM/DBA style shorty range for it's bows? tell me that's just a range increment, and you can shoot farther by some kinda negative...give me faith... *very ****** cross* oh, well. hope Wargames factory stays long enough to pump out medeivals and samurai...

So, lots of Settings. the Storm of Arrows line will most likely be a huge grab for me, but i'm thinking those french and english will be showing up in the colors of Baratheon and House Lannister...with a touch of Arryn and Highgarden.... yet this is not to compare to the day black clouds gather over the west coast... 48 samurai mini's for 30 bucks? no one can presently top that.... *sound of money meeting vacuum...* *distant thunder* *sounds of endless marching, lammelar clinking and conch horns...*

what i see is that the mini's are cool, but your pictures suck. (No insult. hey, this kinda bash helps. ) fix photo skills we all see your lovely mini's clearly. oh, and extra kudos for postign reaper and not GW or PP or somethign like a competitor...

If it's audio-visual combo, my full senses are engaged. just can't do otherwise either way, i have an easy time sneak attacking those who filter out background noise. for me, it's music too, though i sometimes zone in utter silence. cars on the street. cats fightign outside. people talking. creaking 3 floors up. sometimes moaning 3 floors up too, or screaming. in any case, i let my eyes and hands do one task while i let everythign else automate. i won't ever talk about my musical taste. we have such vast diversity here, there is no unity.

OOOH, this IS good news If they start in rome, what will come next??? please say Dark Ages/Hundred years War... (or WWII) i may have a use for 48x2 plastic romans in 28mm...

findign actual knowledge of jewish religious text is difficult in our testament western socety (which is actaully based on greco-roman culture, add bible for whatever reason...) any mistakes on ID what counts as a bible to a hebrew are justified....

I know the RotD forum is where to post on WWII stuff, according to trend, but i need to talk actualities..... i know the actual differences in the Waffen SS and the Falschirmjaeger. (elite land division vs. elite paratrooper commandos oft used as infantry. so, to be a history geek. what are your opinions? (this doesn't have to be a vs. comparison, but seeing RotD coming..it might be.... i think the Wafen SS would win out of materiel and numbers, i dunno if the Falschirmjaeger would have the skill to beat them, and would like to get a few other opinions/facts on their service record. i know the Falschirm's raised hell in Italy... i know the Waffen SS was Hitler's personal favorite unit.... your thoughts?

I look at the LE Mini's.... look at my bills.... and presently available monies, and sigh. I consider them eye candy until i am officially rich and can order overnight from germany/spain NOW. same goes japanese music/DVD... i would order the standard Freebooters if they suited me..the female merc w/ spear is on my want list.... (my lil' squeaky voice...)

This Guy needs an ice suppository... my chaos armies (WHFB and 40K) both get the random as all hell paint treatment...i think that's why they never sold on e-bay.... leave Codex colors for the Space Marines and Eldar...everyone lese can have fun...

Whoa!!! Ironworker --the man--, might i ask how * you prepped the model * the general technique you used see, i have about 100 clone troopers that seriously need MY regiment's colors from the SW: RPG... monkey needs to see and do too!! please, my friend...!

No, this would not warrant cruelty....do not think for a moment that just becasue you don't have the super-free-hand non-metallic-metal super cartoon look that you suck. Throw off the slave mind, brutha, and rasie thy fist in triumph, for a painter you truly are!!! This mini would do great for conversions...though i've me eye on the mega were-shark for that purpose...

Another artist... terrific!!! especialy since your first mini looks absolutely great...just needs better pictures. i can tell those got a lil' blurred lend us your strength of arms! *matsumoto, evil master of the random paintbrush heresy*

Actually i prefer pulp as a movie/novel/comics topic over gaming, but i do love the diversity! the sculpts aren't impressive, but the subjects are definitely lively... i forgot which company SR posted with, BTW. ...then again, artizan wound make some cool pulp...will look-see.

that is very cool! and it's UNDER 20 BUCKS!!! domo arigato, Hi Suru Seisui-sama!

My intention exactly... not enough steps...er, well, i did skip/double up a few... i'll use a different mini with better options, like an intense weapon or some serious gear.

DUDE!!! you da man!!! any good reccomends? like, as in, esoteric crap that most people don't have? would love your insight!!!! do you know where to find the japanese version of "Legend of the 8 samurai"? my english dub is TERRIBLE!!! thank you!

hey, isn't I AM LEGEND also a novel? or ...err, hey, Purity thru Fire, help the doofus here....

"ooooh, this one shows promise indeed...." excellent brush control, great paint control. brign out the shadows a little, maybe? you might just turn out to be great....

"yes....he is showing promise...so quick, so soon..." *rubs hands together in the darkness* realistically, the hard part is gonna be the skin....i have some baseline tips over in army painting, but listening to a real pro might help more on getting the skin down...

i go full out with my character, and custom mini's is one of my favorites... this guy started life as a GW Castellian of Dol Guldur, but received an AEG Naga falchion weapon swap. i puttied on the fur, the 'scabbard', and the belt pouches... lotsa a free-handing on this one... i was going for a half barbarian-priest, half warrior-juggernaut look. i usually don't post non-Reaper, but this time, i had ta' show off.... Good luck on your own game days, peeps!!!

we've seen most of these techniques before, but the reason i have my 12 step process is to make it a tad easier for those who squeal "i don't know how to paint!" which is translated by my ears as i'm afraid to paint, or, i'm too lazy to paint...in which case i feed them this. NOTE: you can choose to toss certain steps of the process to speed up time and produce more mini's but i will explain it in full, just so you know. (step Zero is assembling +converting, pre-basing, and Priming) 1: BASECOAT PRIME: just coat the model in paint. make sure it's not gloppy, covers no detail and that it covers all the parts it needs to cover. hit any future metallic spots with the base coat too, as you'll find some metallics go on translucent unless they have a medium-to-dark backdrop. 2: secondary basecoat. yeah, secondary basecoat. if you want a more diverse looking model, you'll pick a few spots to have a different color. darker works best on secondary, unless you have the great brush control to segregate the two... 3:THE DARKENING INK: yeah, it's a quick way to cover the entire mini in shadows, cause a gradient, and pick out hidden details. you must use a dark version that compliments both basecoats as shadow. dark blue, green, and brown work best, black is a common useful ink, which i used here. (INK? you say? : it's thicker than a wash, lighter than diluted paint. if using a quality paint like Reaper MS or GW, go with a 60% water, 40% paint solution, though a bit thinner might do the job. with thinner cheapos like apple barrel, half and half will do. 4: DETAIL FLESH BASECOAT: this is how flesh is done, use a medium color unless you wanna forgo the highlighting step later good brush control at this step is a good idea. 5: FLESH INK: use a dark or medium dark brown. let dry. 6: flesh highlights. use the lighter color, or color you really intent the flesh to be, and reclaim the raised areas of the face, closer to the sun, without shade form any helm-visor of hat... 7: WEAPONS BASECOAT: use better brush control to metallicize those weapons! you may wanna go two-tone with a wooden brown, or separate hilt/pommel color 8: Weapons Ink: use black ink. in the example i skipped the inking because i though it came out well with just the basecoat. 9: Gear and Accessories basecoat: you'll most likely not wanna skip this, but it's not required. select all the non-clothing, non-weapon, non-flesh parts, and give then a targeted basecoat...if you decide to go a little tight on the brush control, you can use the darkening ink from step 3 as your shadow color...just reclaim the high and middle areas. 10: Gear and Accessories Ink: use a color that fits, black and dark brown work the best... 11: HIGHLIGHT THE MAIN COSTUME: you can choose to highlight everything, but only if you wanna do the work!! just pick out the sun-direction spots on the clothing and give them a hit from a highlight color. i used a dark red on step 1, which got darker with the ink (step 3) and so i used a slightly lighter red to bring out the differences. the brighter the color, the more it will pop. 12: FINAL DETAIL AND BASECOLOR: if you wanna add a symbol or whatnot, go for it. if the base looks wet in the pic, that's 'cause it is!!! in case you haven't guessed, the bold steps are mandatory....