mrgunn

I have had good luck ordering from Blick. Last order from Jerry's they mistreated my W&N Series 7s, I had to return them. It's all about the timing... I almost pulled the trigger on a couple of these tonight myself, then balked at the shipping cost. Blick is better on shipping by $5 vs. Jerry's, but still, without anything more solid than a rumor to go on, I hesitated. You are more daring than I. Care to write a review when they arrive?

Dear All: Thanks for the replies. I am now leaning towards maroon, this is purple and brown combined, I think, please correct me if I am wrong. Seems I could make the main guy maroon and blue and the rank and file blue and maroon, or orange and maroon. What do folks think of that? What RMS would be maroon? Any hints, tips, experience working with maroon? Thanks! mRgUnN

Bueller... are you there?

Dear All: I need help, I am having trouble deciding on color schemes for my Dwarf Army. The theme of my army is "Balin self styled Lord of Moria". As the self styled Lord of Khazad-Dum I need a color scheme that befits his "royal" rank. I need 1 color scheme for Balin and his Khazad Guard and another complementary scheme for the rank and file troops. My view is that Dwarves would tend toward muted earth tones and use brighter colors based on gemstones as a compliment or highlight. Monochromatic Schemes Two Color Analogus or Opposed Color Complements Silver and Gold highlights armor edging Any help would be much appreciated! Regards, mRgUnN

Heh heh the vagaries of the manufacturing world. Anne's lag factor would be called lead time or the time from when she is ready to when manufacturing can build the product. The time it takes to ship from the factory dock to the retailer or customer is also another form of lead time. In reality Anne is probably more concerned with a Development Exit date rather than an Announce or General Availability date. It is manufacturing's responsibility to worry about; All Parts In (API), Customer Simulation Audit (CSA), and Ship Support (SS) dates etc. All Parts is In when manufacturing has all the necessary materials in place to build the product, in the case of paints it would be everything from emulsifant and colorant, to plastic bottles and card board shipping boxes. Normally API covers enough materials to fulfill all pre-GA orders and GA orders for 8 or 13 weeks depending on the mfg cycle time and long lead times of certain products. I won't cover KANBANing, JIT, or planning here. Customer Simulation Audit is a quaility checking process that covers the initial product release and simulates what the customer will actually recieve vs what development said it should have. It is meant to ensure that the product's build of materials is correct, e.g. ensuring blue paint was not put in bottles labeled red and that the little shaker skulls actually got into the bottles etc. Announce is usually the date that the company officially says a product has been developed and is normally the formal start of the marketing process. Product is "announced" with features described and pricing. Many times the order taking windows are opened so sales can begin accepting "pre-orders". Ship Support usually means that manufacturing will have produced necessary quantities of product to fulfill the pre-orders but not yet able to fulfill volume or GA quantity orders within the standard product lead time. General Availability means that the product is available in quantity and most orders can be fulfilled within standard lead times. Not sure why I wrote all this but here it is. So cut Anne some slack she is in Development not Marketing or Manufacturing Regards, mRgUnN

Lilly: Hi! My experience is that all black primers are a little glossy, not sure why, but I think it has something to do with solvent based versus water based and brush vs spray paints and application methods. However, it should at least stick to the mini. Spray painting is very tricky, there are so many factors involved: humidity, temperature, windy conditions, how close or far your stream was when you sprayed this batch of minis, the nozzel clogging, how long you shook the bottle before spraying, how hot or cold the paint can or the mini was when you sprayed, e.g. was it near the air conditioning vent, blah blah blah. So it could be just an abberation based on one of the factors above. My personal opinion and experience is that GW primers are inconsistently manufactured and have many defects, clogging nozzels etc. So I would drop kick the GW primer in the ash can and then drop your mini into a vat of Easy-Off oven cleaner and start over with a different primer, preferably Floquil or Tamiya. See the links I provided earlier in this thread for more on primers. Good Luck! mRgUnN

Flynn: Don't you know huffing paint fumes is very bad for your health? mRgUnN

Dear All: I have used Armory, Krylon, and Citadel and they all did me wrong. I have had super great results with Floquil F330021 white primer and F330010 black primer. So now I use Floquil primers and nothing else. Not the cheapest or easiest to find, however it works for me. There is a great article on primers here. Other folk's opinions about floquil on this board can be found here. Good luck! mRgUnN

Dear Anne: Ahh good ol ignorance, ;) I guess, I really wanted the CMYK/RGB values not the pantone equivilencies. I do not have photo shop or any other equivilent paint program, other than MS Paint that came with the OS. Thanks for the help so far. Thanks, mRgUnN

Flynn: I have the .PDF, but it won't fit in my spread sheet. Thanks, mRgUnN

Dear all: Right on, right on, Dark Showcase, err I meant Angorak, outlines the reasons to use a wet palette. Thanks, mRgUnN

Dear All: I use two swing arm desk lamps with Sunalite CF-30 Sunwave® Full Spectrum Compact Fluorescent light bulbs I have had good luck ordering on-line with the following companies: http://www.1stoplighting.com/ http://www.sunalite.com/ Not sure about your situation in France. Regards, mRgUnN

Dear Anne: No neferious activity here, I just needed help with my spread sheet with color swatches so I could keep track of which ones I had and which ones I needed. I am missing swatches 9163 - 9216 and wanted to put them in my spread sheet.

Vaitalla: Can you post the pantone numbers for the RSMPs in the Paint Equivilencies thread? Thanks! mRgUnN

Dear All: What type of paint mediums do you all use? I use Golden, Retarder, Flow Aid, and GAC 100 Acrylic polymer. I am wondering what the best non-RMSP medium to use for glazes? Also I would like to know what product folks use to preserve and extend their paints when they start to dry off? Thanks, mRgUnN