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Joe Kutz

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    Rapid City, SD

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  1. Yeah, I have been watching it for about a year (I think last November or December was when I first saw them) now hoping to see a flyer from one of the larger US suppliers (or at the very least western European) who deal with them. I may have to break down and order from one of the other suppliers though (there is a Czech model shop that I deal with somewhat often that can probably get them if they don't carry them already). BTW - the one English add that I had seen for them...I think they were called Star Rangers or something along those lines. http://www.zv-desant.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10 - Thread which contains peoples WIPs and finished models. http://www.zv-desant.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4 - Most importantly, detail shots of the sprues and what not - as well as conversions and similar user submitted projects.
  2. http://zv-desant.ru/ I haven't had much success with tracking down a supplier in this hemisphere - anyone know of a place that stocks them? Dragon USA says they can order them, but coming on the slow boat from Russia...via their supplier in Italy (who also doesn't maintain a stock of them) it would take somewhere around 3 months to get in through the various customs and other checkpoints. Some of the gallery pictures look pretty interesting (the crab tank thing especially). Others look a bit...off...though that might just be the way they were assembled. Either way, I'd like to see them in person.
  3. Don't laugh too hard about this. Rumors coming from the GW investors' reports seem to indicate a rapid shift with a lot of changes coming down the pipeline in order to drive their plastic products. One of them comes from closer ties with management staff out of Tamiya in order to develop better pricing strategies for the long term maintenance of their plastic production properties which they acquired a few years ago, but have largely been under performing due to lack of understanding in developing long term outlook strategies for those assets. In related news though, most companies do not price kits due to the age of the molds. Various plastic model companies do not adjust the pricing on models which are 10, 15 or even 20 years old. In terms of most expensive - by volume of sprue it is the Eldar Wraithlord.
  4. Yep, fun figures. In addition to Copplestone - http://www.mirliton.it/index.php?cName=future-warrior-28-mm has the line as well (and I think a few that Copplestone was not able to retain rights to). If I recall the shell game that was played with Grenadier's stuff when they went under...EM-4 also carries the line (or part of it), with exclusive rights to the plastics in the line.
  5. The bike is looking nice. Did you end up masking the straight lines or did you suffer through that by hand (I find it easier to paint celtic knot work than a straight line)?
  6. Wholesale orders normally take about 5 days to arrive here when I order them - so it shouldn't be too much longer for retail orders. Nice thing about them is that they are the same plastic that is used for standard bases as opposed to resin. Makes them more durable, and very easy to add debris and what not in the form of other styrene parts. BTW - they are the same bases that Aberrant Games sells (ABG 0001 and ABG 0002) - so if you are looking at ordering some, you might want to see if you can piggy back them with a supplier who deals with Rezolution miniatures.
  7. One additional tip here... A glass or fiberglass rod (some plastics too) works great for manipulating the grass without touching it. Think back to grade school science classes and the stuff they used to demonstrate static electricity. I use a cat to charge my glass rods...but a wool sweater will work quite well too. I personally prefer to use a different adhesive than super glue in order to have a longer working time - but most glues which dry clear will work well enough.
  8. Generally speaking, Epoxy will be stronger unless you have perfect fits to deal with. Superglue doesn't like gaps - and even the gap filling formulas are not as strong as a good Epoxy (5 minute or otherwise). If you have really good fits though, the final bond strength of superglue is normally stronger than that of epoxy. Of coarse a lot of that will depend on the Epoxy and Superglue in question. The really thin superglues will be stronger than thicker superglues, as they lack fillers and other stuff that weakens bonds. Really good epoxy can be much stronger than the best superglue - but most the stuff off the shelf is only in the middle of the pack. So - yeah, it depends. Normally due to fitment issues on large items, epoxy is the better way to go. It helps to fill the gap that normally exists and makes the final blending work with GS easier (often you can simply shape the epoxy as it is drying).
  9. http://www.fenryll.com/en/miniature-155.html Probably the most economical way to buy skulls. Goes for about $16 from a US supplier (cheaper from many places). 72 skulls, good assortment and inexpensive.
  10. One of the most important things to take away from that article (everything else is good...but the #1 thing that I have found) is to spend the time with surface prep. A1, #1 most important! When dealing with any real finishes (metallics, pearlescents, flipping colors...) you want to have an absolutely perfectly smooth finish. When metal miniatures are cast, they end up picking up a slight texture all over - and when you use one of the paints on the surface which play with light...much of the effect will be lost due to the texture on the underlying material. Dremels with soft brass/aluminum/nylon brushes or jeweler's polishing points make that a quick and easy task. After that, a smooth primer coat and your metallics will look 10 times better even with larger grained sized paints. For the optimal effect, use an enamel or lacquer metallic paint over a gloss primer (most acrylics have a hard time sticking to gloss primers). Again, it provides the smoothest finish and as a result it will provide optimal metallic effects.
  11. http://www.resinaplanet.com/index.php?language=en
  12. Yep, I started carrying the Resina Planet line a few months ago - and they are all pretty cool. Since most of them are multi-part metals, a lot of people are a bit intimidated by them, but the casting is very clean and the designs are very good.
  13. After a few hours sleep my assessment of Lunchbox's SM seems a bit harsh. The painting is good - I just can't get behind on actual shading used. Anywho, the NMM versus SENMM and all the rest is a bit of a non-issue. It doesn't make a difference what you call it - the horizon line needs to exist any time that you are painting materials that have a significant amount of reflectivity (even brushed aluminum has a recognizable horizon line). The proper placement is what makes the effect workable...otherwise it tends to look simply like normal painting with some odd highlighting. I wouldn't go quite that far. Miniatures which are in a fixed situation (shadow boxes and stuff like the old GW miniature dioramas) allow you to get really crazy with your reflections and you control the viewing angles...so you can work the painting more than normal. Even in a less controlled environment, the shine shifts - but normally it will move only in certain circumstances (unless of course you rotate the object and not the viewer...). Take a look at this: http://www.zercustoms.com/photos/Toyota-Auris-in-Chrome.html That is a bit of an exaggeration, but it does demonstrate the effects of the horizon and various breaks on the object. The car remains stationary, but the viewing angle changes. If you were to examine the horizon lines on objects like the mirrors, you will find that they remain in the same spot from all the angles they are visible in. Same goes for the rest of the lines...though those are a bit harder to identify compared to the mirrors. Keep in mind that that is a specific environment. The lighting is overhead and provided by giant skylights, so it isn't focussed. Various other light sources will change the end result (fire, torch in hand, interior point lights....). Some are nearly impossible to replicate properly in a NMM fashion - most can be done with proper understanding of the scenes composition. But yes, I do agree - the goblin looks very well done. While it can be a bit hard to photograph metallics (different issue, for a different thread) - when they are seen in person, well done metallics/demi-metallics/blended metallics/whatever the flavored name of the week might be will look much more realistic most of the time.
  14. Probably got tired more of dealing with the BS of business, haggling and ho-humming that you get with a lot of smaller casters. By listing them with a price - it is simple. You want it, you buy it. If you think it is too expensive...don't need to worry about dealing with that particular interest. I had the same problem several years ago with a ladder bar suspension we designed for a car. When I decided to stop building them, I thought about selling the jigs and spec sheets - but after dealing with 5 different companies for 6 months...I finally figured I would be ahead to simply pack the materials away and let the spiders play in them.
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