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Orsino

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Everything posted by Orsino

  1. The Sarge: like Cap'n Crunch, but he works for a living. Happy (belated) birthday!
  2. The ghost effect looks terrific so far! I'd like to see the finished product against a black background. The surface beneath her should (eventually) be nearly black, too, just barely lit around her.
  3. It's hard to appreciate the sheer size of this beast, so here's a ruler and my hand for scale. The whole shebang is nearly 2-1/2 feet long, and with another deck in place, it's starting to look seriously nautical. The upper deck comes in four pieces. The bow and the stern ends remain separate for removal during play. The middle pieces joined together are about a foot long, and the seam (just afore of the middle mast) isn't even visible at this distance. I've done this step correctly, I believe, mounting the sections on foamcore, and beveling the edges per the instructions; it was suspiciously easy. I found some nice foamcore at Michael's, black foam sandwiched between layers of what appears to be black cardstock. It cuts quite easily, and I didn't even have trouble following the curve of the bow section "freehand," so to speak. I could have cut out those big vents, as the kit comes with grills to print on transparency to allow light to enter the hull from above. I don't see a need for that feature, really, and just want an open, level playing area. I will soon cut out those hexagonal areas for the masts, and I believe the next stage is the construction of the fore- and sterncastles.
  4. And they shipped to Georgia from the UK in about three days, contacting me every step of the way. They're great.
  5. I haven't given it the final dusting of that whatever-you-call-it-the-label-fell-off-mine Testor's flat finish. Then I'll gloss up the stuff that's supposed to shine.
  6. Couldn't find him--not until SaintRigger helped. I wanted a Regency/Napoleonic-era gentleman, but I really like this figure, which looks a bit like the character portrait I'd made. About all I really know of the character is that he's a fop's fop, so I've given him the powdered look and a beauty mark, while trying for an intimidating appearance. Nothin' fancy here: just a quick tabletop-quality paint job, with plenty of my two favorite colors (red and black). The mini needed a "period" feel, and the bright colors will help him stand out on the playing surface, around which eleven people gather. We don't often use the minis, but I want to be ready for whenever I manage to finish the ship. The photography is frankly amateurish, as I was having trouble focusing in full sunlight.
  7. I don't know whether a full list exists as you describe, but you'll want to start with GURPS Who's Who 2 (and volume 1, as well), which provide full (third-edition) stats for a wide range of historical characters. Check the tables of contents to see exactly who's covered.
  8. Yeah. How much realism is necessary? As much as is necessary. A science geek player will probably need more of it in a game, unless s/he's in it for pure escapist fun. Even the reverse might be true; someone with no background in science may want to play a character that has it. There's no telling. I generally like the difference split. I wanna see real-world physics at work in the game world, but a GM is welcome to overlay that with as much crazy crap as is needed for fun.
  9. Uh-huh. This was a satisfying ending. Pretty doggone dark for the littlest kids, though.
  10. If your Operative Number begins with QX, this is the signal. Initiate step 3, releasing all the frogs at midnight GMT. Kindly disregard if your Operative Number does not begin with QX, and continue to shop at Wal-Mart.
  11. I'll bet you could, but I haven't tried anything like that.
  12. Got it Saturday morning, and am more than half-done. I'll finish it today.
  13. Okay, Potter book release and Potter movie weekend, with the Tavern in between. Construction has slowed at the Mormont Naval Shipyards, but I have added the interior bracing (on which the upper deck will rest) and the sockets for the three masts. Trivia: only six braces are provided in the .pdf, while the illustrated instructions clearly call for twelve; I had to print another copy of page seven. I'm very nearly done with the hull section. Tomorrow, I'll pick up some foamcore for the upper deck and transparency sheets (for printing the rigging).
  14. Let's also not forget that armor was expensive. A knight would wear it only when he had to, and would if possible retain a squire or other servant whose job it would be to maintain it. Armor had to be functional, but it was also intended to impress. I tend to prefer understated armor to that on typical Warhammer minis, and that means Reapers. I can appreciate a touch of over-the-top design--Chronicles Of Riddick is fun because everyone manages to keep a straight face--but I have to believe that armor works, and isn't just another costume.
  15. Mmmm.....sandwiches. Plasticard on foamcore? Thanks; I will look for that.
  16. No need to bollix things by rushing them, RD! I've found that one can make mistakes slowly, too. May the gods of origami be with you. Here's the mostly completed hull, with some Reapers for scale. It's ship-shaped now! I am almost literally salivating at the thought of the adventures we'll have aboard. I'm still worried about the nekkid cardstock underneath, which I really should have mounted on foamcore. I'm determined to try some sort of spray lacquer, very lightly and a little bit at a time, to add some strength later on. And I'll do the upper deck right.
  17. Rastl_Deeperdown has helpfully alerted me to a mistake I'm making. Had I read the decking instructions--though I thought I was working on the hull--I would have found the recommendation to mount decks on foamcore. That's what is supposed to hold the three sections of lower deck together, surely. My doubling of the card stock may provide sufficient strength down at water level, but I'll need to take sterner measures when I build the upper deck. Don't want no saggin' in this wagon! Rule 1: Read everything before doing anything. Rule 2: Ignore Rule 1 if you're me.
  18. Much of the bow is done now. You can see the curved piece at the bottom, which nicely hides (and strengthens) those ugly saw-teeth visible in the previous post. I hope that the worst is over, and have begun assembling the stern (that's the rudder sitting in the stern).
  19. The two halve of the bow seen above are glued together, and two-by-two, those little tabs will be secured to bend things into the right shape. The lower hull here I've doubled in thickness for what I imagine to be extra strength; this might turn out to be some sort of horrible mistake, but a single sheet of that size just feels flimsy. I can tell that this is going to be a difficult step. Commander Miles Strange (a converted 28mm Silver Age Sentinel) supervises the construction. Father Oswald must be busy tonight.
  20. Maybe you've seen it already. Maybe it's haunted your dreams. You know you want a 28mm sailing vessel. You know you want a fleet of 'em for red-hot ship-on-ship action. You don't want to spend hundreds of dollars or weeks of time building them. WorldWorks has us in mind, and their designers have given us a beauty, in the form of a zipped set of .pdf files that you download once and print as often as you need (color printer sold separately). Don't miss the movie posted there! My timbers are certainly shivering. The tutorials have me thinking I can do this. Today I begin by printing the pieces on 110-lb card stock. A lot of folding is in my future--the components are printed on only one side, so there's a lot of doubling that also adds strength. Here are the two halves of the bow, already folded, glued and trimmed. You can also see the tools of the trade, freshly purchased at Office Max: glue sticks, hobby knife, Sharpie marker (see tutorial), metal ruler and cutting mat. The blue squares are the ocean tiles for the tabletop. Batten them hatches, and weigh anchor ("About five hundred pounds, Cap'n!"). Let's see how badly I can screw this up.
  21. Very nice! I'll have to point my wife (diehard SoIaF fan) to this thread. I have only read the first book, and don't remember it well, but I would like to see a little color in the wolf. A little brown in some places would highlight the musculature, like this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Wolfmoult.png
  22. Well, it takes all kinds. I'm glad there's room for more than the standard European-derived paladins, and I can imagine warmer campaign settings in which nobody wears much of anything when s/he can help it. Armor might have to be minimal, and no telling what you might see popping out on the battlefield. But there's nothing lawful good about a mini, and calling this one a "paladin" won't break anyone's game. For those who want even more nekkidity on the tabletop, there are umpteen-jillion scantily-clad warrior women, and it doesn't much matter what character class is referenced on the outside of the blister. I'm sure one can find "barbarian" or "courtesan" figs who show less skin than this pally.
  23. Verily, thank you! That pretty much matches the character portrait above, though it's not the non-combatant pose I was hoping for. It ain't Regency, but that there's a nobleman. I'm going to have to have it, and while I'm at it, I'll get that [email protected]$$ Mani mini: Much obliged! It's gonna look sooooooo good when I finish building this sucka. Our game's gonna rock on toast.
  24. Heh. I was all fired up when a new player in the game showed up playing, well, a foppish dandyprat. Heck, his first scene was in a dressmaker's shop, advising a young deb on gown selections. Then I began to realize that an appropriate mini might be hard to find. You'd think that somewhere there's a Percy Blakeney mini that I could paint up as a sort of Lavender Pimpernel. Thank you. I seem to have discovered the Era Man Was Not Meant to Model.
  25. If this were a historical game, and if we were more mini-centric, I'd certainly agree--I'm a diehard Jane Austen fan, and would love nothing better than to outfit the table with properly-dressed English ladies and gentlemen. For us, though, it's not the nineteenth century, this ain't Earth, and our characters are not all "European." That's just the feel I'm going for in making character portraits and such. Until I find a real maker of suitable Regency-era minis, I think I'm going to have to compromise. An awful lot of civilian-type minis are medieval or Renaissance lookin', and that works okay for a lot of NPCs or our more barbaric player characters. I even had trouble finding a good-looking Napoleonic Royal Navy fig for my Hornbloweresque character, and wound up converting one of the Silver Age Sentinels.
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