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Myrhev

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  1. I have used JBW for years on mini's. I have had a mini put together with it fall off of a gaming table. Well, the mini broke... just NOT where the JBW was holding it together. Instead it broke where there wasn't originally a join.
  2. Overall I agreed with a lot of what you said smokingwreckage, but am going to disagree with the part I quoted. I think it is an art. I also feel that those other things are arts as well. As with any art, some will be lucky and be naturally talented and it will come easy for them, and some won't. However, just because you have more trouble doing it doesn't mean you shouldn't try at all! Yes, brush control as it is a key thing. However, never fear asking a question as there is always someone that has an insight into what you are doing and can probably help or at least show you an alternate method. I personally tackle painting in a "cerebral" way. I tend to read as many articles and ask a lot of questions prior to starting. I do this because I paint slowly, as in glaciers melt slowly. So if I were to just sit down and practice with no idea of where I was going, I could easily waste 7-20 hours :( However, that being said, sometimes there is no substitute for actually sitting down and learning from trial and error. Just I suggest doing it on a scrap mini and not your army general ;)
  3. The Let it Flow article is great. However, I personally found my thinning to be a little less so than what is suggested. I am assuming that this comes down to 2 things, personal preference and that RMS are naturally thinner than Pro. Overall though, I am happier with my RMS's than with any other paint I have used. Now if I could only get my skill up to the level of the paint I am using :p
  4. Yeah, she ended up linking me that. So basically I am going to take that and Vaitalla's suggestions.
  5. It always amazes me what others can do with paint. Very good job indeed.
  6. Congratulations to both of you. I was kinda confused though at first as I thought I had clicked on the Works in Progress section :O
  7. I will go on record of seconding the fishing line. Depending on the size of the model/scenery, fishing line can be ideal. Then just add glue or whatever you prefer to make the drool/spit drop.
  8. I would like to give thanks to everyone for their help with this. I have sent a message to Allison and hopefully she can give me the specific colour used so that I can match it. If not, or if I get no response, I will definately be using your suggestion Vaitalla (I usually use avatar names unless I actually know the person irl). My personal painting skill level is nowhere near that of the original artist, but I still would like to give it a shot.
  9. Problem is, I have no idea who painted it, much less what was used. I will try emailing PP and seeing if they can help me out. I tried matching the RMS online colour chart to the model but I'm not sure how accurate it is. Oh well, thanks for the info.
  10. I am having trouble matching a colour and was hoping everyone/someone here could help me out. Here is a copy of the model: Now, what I am looking to do is to match the colour of the filigree pattern on his shield and cloak in Reaper Master Series paints. Right now I am leaning towards a Khaki or one from the Undead Skintone Triad, but I am not sure. So, would appreciate it if one of you could take a look and help me out. As a side note, I am looking to match it with only RMS paints. I have had bad luck with Vallejo in the past and never liked Citadel paints. Since getting the RMS a couple of months ago I am liking them a lot. However, I can't afford to purchase all of them, so that is why matching my colours is so important to me.
  11. Where did you get them and what brand are they? I am curious as I hadn't seen files of that grit. Also, assuming files are like sandpaper, higher grit means smoother finish. Using the 220's would actually be faster for removing flash and mold lines. However, I wouldn't mind a set of 900 grit for ultra-smooth finish work.
  12. Ouch! Hate to say it, but by the sound of things, you need to save the money from buying a dragon and invest in some shelves or a book case strictly for mini's. :( I fully understand what you mean though about cramped space for mini's. Back when I had roomates there was never enough room. I had to paint and store them all in my bedroom and would have to actually play at the local game shop. Later, living on my own, I could start one on the dining room table and when I finished it I put it in my game room/spare bedroom.
  13. Sorry to hear about your accident, it always sucks when something like that happens. I have a couple of questions though. Is the model metal or plastic? You said a wing bent but you also say you want to strip lacquers and not lose details. If it is solid metal, do you know what metal? I really haven't ran into any issues with pewter, but I have had lead-rot issues before. I use lacquer thinner (available in most DIY or hardware stores) when cleaning laquer from things around the house. It works well though I have never used it on a mini. I tear down old barns and use the wood to make furniture. I use lacquer as my protectant after staining, so that is from where my experience comes. Anyways, hope that helps and let us know how it turns out.
  14. For black hair, I have always been a fan of dark blue highlights. That is just personal preference though. As for the skin, purple sounds good, though, have you tried pulling of some good photo's of actual ebony and using them for inspiration?
  15. Awesome and thanks for all of the replies everyone. I will see how the vortex mixer works when someone tries it and if it isn't up to the level of the Robart, then I'll get the Robart. With the amount that I have to use a computer and the time that I love to spend painting (when I have the fever), I need to do every little thing I can to cut down on carpal tunnel risk.
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