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japenny_902's Achievements

Rabble Rouser

Rabble Rouser (3/8)



  1. I don't suppose that there is an ETA on when the 77024 goblin bones set might be restocked?
  2. I use my H for spraying future floor finish and thicker materials like gesso and thinned house paint when I need to basecoat terrain. Really is a workhorse and impossible to kill. I've always been tempted to throw some 2k clear through it to see how it would do. For general work on minis like priming and basecoats, and spraying models, I must admit I'm an iwata man. The revolution sprays mini primer like stynylrez and Vallejo surface really well.
  3. If you have P3 paints to go with it try a little bit of ordic olive mixed in. That magenta can be looked at as a cool red, so a warm green like an olive would help to knock it a bit dark. You can also get away with a little bit of black and it will give you a kind of dirty maroon color.
  4. Thanks for the responses guys, I guess it won't be a big deal, and it's just more stuff to paint.
  5. I'm sure this was talked about in the past but am having a hard time finding anything definitive. I use a lot of reaper figures in my geeky games at home. But am thinking about picking up some Ral Partha figures for some nostalgia reasons (I had some when I was a kid), and I think I read before that they're smaller than modern 28mm heroic figures (like reaper and wizkids etc). Is this true? Will they look out of place mixed in with my other figures? I thought someone on here would know given the amount of knowledge this forum is swimming in. Cheers
  6. What kind of compressor are you using and does it have an air storage tank? Does it normally work and level out at a higher pressure with that brush? It may be that the motor is wearing out and is having a hard time supplying the pressure to the brush. Or as Ratmaster2000 said there could be an air leak in the system. When not engaging the trigger of the brush can you hear air escaping anywhere?
  7. I switched from testors dullcote, to Tamiya TS-80 and never looked back, for rattle can varnish. It's more consistent to me and is dead flat. For brush on/Airbrush on, I use Pebeo Matt Artist Varnish. It's extremely flat and for an acrylic varnish it seems pretty durable.
  8. I'd personally like to see Ratling type miniatures, great for sewer adventures. And Wolfen, I get asked for them a lot by my players, and have a hard time finding miniatures. The reaper warlord ones are cool, but 1 inch based size figures would be awesome (if I remember the warlord ones are larger figures are they not?)
  9. I recently got Dragon Rampant by Osprey games. Seems very cool to me and totally generic. You could even use it as a skirmish game if you just fielded individual powerful figures as units. Worth checking out.
  10. Absolutely you're right. I was considering one or two of the learn to paint kits, to get a sampling, but from there even if the paints in the kit don't do anything bad there is no way of knowing if there are any other problem colors in the line. I was hoping there might be some official word from reaper on the issue, which is really what I was musing about with my comment. As any painter that does a google search for reviews etc, while doing research on the materials they are thinking about using, will come across this, erroneous or not, issue on many 3rd party forums/sites etc. Plus 100 bucks on a sampling of paint, for instance, is a lot to me, with the wait times for delivery it's just a little irritating is all, I wasn't trying to make a big point.
  11. Sort of off topic, but still about cracks in reaper paint. I've heard about the cracking with MSP paints before. I think the common reason people say it happens is the amount of flow improver in the paint, although from my experience with many types of paint in the art world, this isn't what happens when too much flow improver is in paint. Normally the paint doesn't dry as water proof as you expect with too much flow improver, so you can actually "reactivate" the paint a bit. All my personal experience mind you. I think cracking could be caused by a bottom layer of paint shrinking under a top one, especially if the top layer does not have the elasticity to keep up with the shrinking. I wonder what kind of primer the OP used. To be honest this is what has been making me have second thoughts about buying a bunch of reaper paint. I've been itching to dump a pile of money into new paint but having a hard time being comfortable with it being reaper. Maybe this should have been it's own thread. As it would be nice to hear some official word from Reaper on this cracking that you hear about online in various places. And if there are any guarantees or company policy on the matter. Maybe I'll start one on it soon.
  12. Thanks for the replies as always! That's the info I was hoping for.
  13. Another paint question here. Is there any overlap between the regular HD paint and the Bones paint? Please correct but they're both similar in formulation from my understanding. But are they all individually unique colors? Like if I bought the whole range of each would I wind up buying a lot of duplicate colors?
  14. Thanks for all of the feedback everyone. I still have some decisions to make obviously, and given that I'm hearing we're in for another cold snap up here in Canada I will have a little more time to think about it. Cheers
  15. Thank you guys for the replies. I can see how I gave the impression that I wanted it for speed painting. I guess what I kind of mean is I'd like a good paint system that would work well both higher quality single jobs that have smoother blends/layering etc., as well as faster table top work when I want to churn out a pile of troops at a time etc. I also make a lot of mistakes lol, so I do find corrections easier to do with a more opaque base. When I used to paint minis years ago I tended to do a lot of ultra thin layering for higher quality work that took forever, but I found it catastrophic when I made a blunder. 9ish years later I guess my patience and spare time limit me for doing that kind of work. I assume the more opaque colors would be the highlights in the triads due to the addition of white or other light opaque pigments. But I also have a small concern that relying on the triad systems may make for a sterile look in ways. Like sometimes I add a bit of different colors to steer a highlight to a warmer or cooler temperature, same with shadows. This sounds contradictory to my initial inquiry but it is something I did think about. Makes me go in circles in my head lol. Probably overthinking it. I know the ideal would probably be a mix of both HD and MSP, although if HD can be thinned and worked will for reasonable layering then that alone might be the way for me to go.
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