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Everything posted by japenny_902

  1. Trying not to take part.... just.... can't.... help.... it.... This reply is comming from a guy that doesn't play with a miniature until it's painted, but no one has the right to give anyone a hard time on how they decide to play with their figures. I don't go out and spend hundreds of dollars on miniatures, with my hard earned money only to be pestered by it. I'm all for painting, hell I do display work and take pride in my improvements, but we should all be able to enjoy the hobby for what it is, a source of fun. And that means making it our own! Pewter miniatures? Fine, as long as your having fun with it. Shade coat and drybrush? Giddy up! Ten layers of hilighting and NMM? Giterdone! The only help anyone needs is to have someone help them make the hobby THEIR hobby. My two pennies worth on the matter, James
  2. I totally agree that it's a bad decision, which is why I brought it up, because reaper figures are so great for our hobby and would have hated to see it go the same way. Reaper is 100 times the company that GW is, and their customer service is top notch, so I also agree with IG88 that reaper could become the leader of metal, especially here in the Americas. I am a fan of Privateer Press as well, but their figures are specialized and reapers are pretty much the best for roleplaying figures. Both companies are reputable and shouldn't change a thing about their product quality... except realease new figures Cheers James
  3. Hello, As I've read somewhere that Rackham is going to be moving to an all pre-paint line, and I was just wondering if it is reaper plans to take to the all prepainted route as well. I am sorry if this question has been asked in another thread, and am only asking out of curiosity. I really appreciate the quality of your miniatures and would hate to see you do away with metal figures. Cheers, "A concerned fan"
  4. Yes this helps greatly! Now I have an idea of what to buy. Next I just have to pick a faction I'm leaning towards the Dwarves, but Necropolis is really cool too. I am going to have to think about this one Again thanks for the kind help everyone. Cheers James
  5. Thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated. Can an army consist of any figures. I'd most likely order them by looks, and how I'd like to paint them rather than knowing anything about the game. I just want to know if I can go willy nilly with the figures, or is there some organization like in 40k where you need a certain number of a certain type of miniatures. I'm not trying to get rules from people for free, I am ordering the rulebook when I order the miniatures, and would like to do it at the same time. And once again, the help is GREATLY appreciated. Cheers James
  6. Hello everyone, Could anyone tell me what the standard force size is for point values for say a "mid sized" game? I am probably going to be investing in an army or two and I can see the point values on the data cards online, and am going to be ordering the rulebook as well, so I can see how much each model is worth but I don't really know how many points worth to buy? I realize that games are probably different sizes but I'm only looking at an average force. Cheers James
  7. I second all of the plugs for a kolinski brush. I do a lot of painting with a series 7 #2 or miniature #2, both are awesome and definately worth investing in. I don't think they make you a better painter but they take away the headaches of bad equipment so you can concentrate on improving your skills. Cheers James
  8. Hello, Does the little plastic cup that comes with the Vortex Genie work with reaper/vallejo dropper bottles? Cheers James
  9. Hello everyone, I've been reading some info that windex is good to use for airbrushing acrylics, but I was wondering if there is any advantage to using it for brush painting miniatures as well? I'm just asking more out of curiosity than anything else. Also will it damage a natural hair brush? Cheers James
  10. Flynn, what brand of blending medium are you using? I'm an addative junkie so I'll try anything once (for painting that is ) Cheers James
  11. The pallette paper that you have to prepare is letting the water seep back down into the sponge. I won't let the medium and the pigment but the water will go down through, that's why your paint is getting gunky. The best paper to use for thinned paint, and trust me on this, is baking parchment paper. You don't have to prepare it and it work wonderfully. I don't take credit for the trick, as I found it on a french painting site. It works much better than the paper that you have to soak first, and it's a lot cheaper. You have to play with it to get it to lay flat but it will lay down for you after you hold the edges for a bit. I still use the sta-wet pallette sponge and case but not their paper. Cheers James
  12. What you're describing is what I always called feathering too and the technique I've been practicing. The "fading the edge" blending that Mr. McVey always talks about in his articles is what I was asking about. In that case wouldn't a thinnly applies paint that is watery dry quicker? so you'd get that drying ring when you go at it with the second brush? That's the only thinking I can come up with when I read about using the paint a little thicker, not un-thinned, just not down to the really thin consistancy of layering. I would still go probably 1:1 if I was trying that 2 brush method. I think that the terminology in painting is what causes any type of confusion on the net. Cheers James
  13. I actually wouldn't mind some tips from people here myself. I've tried this method many times and can't get it as smooth as some I've seen. This is used by a lot of the privateer press studio team too, I beleive. And there are tips for it in the escalation book for warmachine and it actually says to use thicker paint. The reasoning is has is that thicker paint dries slower than thinned paint. I didn't really know this, or even if it is true. Could anyone clarify this a little more as well, if possible? Cheers James
  14. I have been trying other colors and a very thin wash of purple over a regular brown shading wash gives a nice tone to gold paint. Also a chesnut color can work really well, depending on what the gold is surrouned by (the other colors on the mini) Cheers James
  15. Hello, I'm thinking of affordable primer brands to bring in for my customers, and I was wondering if the floquil figure primer is of good quality. I'm looking for something that is forgiving and doesn't obsure detail. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks James Penny
  16. The manager of the local Bunker told me that they would be the same price once they come out in singles. And the pots are the same size as the regular paints. 12 ml, so you pay the most for the least
  17. I own several of both the series 7 miniature and regular, and the taper of the miniature line seems much more sharp than that of the regular.
  18. I tried them for a day down at the local GW bunker. They do cover pretty much like they say, although red and yellow still require two coats. And they are thicker very much like Vallejo Model Color. They dry much faster than VMC or even regular Citadel colors, and the bottle design is even worse than normal if you ask me. This is all just my opinion however. Something was said about the thickness of vallejo paints and yes the Game Color is very thin, but Model Color requires some thinning before you can really use it. Cheers! James
  19. Thanks for the replies, @Paintrix I think one of my biggest roadblocks in my development in this hobby is trying to get away from the formula type painting. I find it really hard to just go by feel, although I know I should it's probably the technologist in me wanting the formulas. Just out of curiosity though, if you could give just a ballpark idea, how thin do you layer with? I know that different paint types would probably yield different answers though. I guess this question could go out to everyone too, just cause I'm a little nosey @vutpakdi I actually use a bigger bottle for the water, with a pin hole in the tip. But I would think that since the surface tension of the water was the same then the water would just build up until the water was in the amount that it would "drop". Of course I could be out in left field with a hockey stick here Cheers! James Penny
  20. This may seem like a silly questions, but anyone noticed that when you put water in a dropper bottle the drops are big compared to a drop of paint. If I were to say want to dilute paint 2:1 water to paint, would I only use like one drop of water out of a dropper bottle to one drop of paint? I think some of my problems with painting is that I use like 3 or 4 drops of water to one drop of paint, but I think that that would actually be like 6:1 or 8:1. Could someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers! James Penny
  21. Cutting a minis arm to reposition it.... Knife slipped.... Sliced artery... 10 stitches in thumb... 3 hours in emergency... That's my worst. The wife was REAL impressed. James
  22. No I use actual flow improver all of the time. I'm just a bit of a mad scientist that's all Got like 10 bottles of stuff that I've bought and tried just for the sake of trying. But usually I just use water or water plus a little flow improver (I use winsor newton)
  23. I've recently read that jet dry added to your water makes a good flow enhancer. Has anyone else tried it? And if yes, does it interfer with any paint brands? I normally try to use very few addatives, but I will try anything once James
  24. No, I know how to put it on a holder, I have done it many times, I just meant that when it's on a holder i can't seem to get my hands right to paint detail really well while it's on a holder of some sort.
  25. I hear everyone saying that putting the mini on a holding stand, like a paint pot or cork or something, but I just can't seem to hold it in a good way to get it steady enough to do detail painting. Does anyone else find this, and just manhandle the miniature?
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