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japenny_902

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Everything posted by japenny_902

  1. Really? I had always heard that it takes like 8 hours to dry? You mean i can paint over it sooner? Learn something new every day I guess Thanks for the answer folks James
  2. I know that a lot of dullcote questions come up but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with speeding up the drying time with a hairdryer. I've considered taking up the practice of dusting it between sections of a miniature and was just wondering the opinion of people here of using it to speed up the process.
  3. Hello all, I got a question for all of you paint gurus out there. What is the difference between varnish and a medium. I know the uses for the two but not the chemical make up for them, and are then interchangable? These are the things I wonder about on my government job James
  4. I started with GW as well, because it's really all that was around here at the time. I find that they really need to be thinned to do any real detail work with. I know what you mean about the game store. Down at the local GW bunker I watch all of the time and they teach the people to paint directly out of the pot tops, and they never even describe paint thinning to people. It wasn't until I started really digging into the internet that I really started to find out about usint thinned paint. I use distilled water and a little flow aid in it (10%) and I also add about 6 or 7 drops of unthinned flow improver to GW paints in the pots. I did find that it made a big difference. I don't do this with reaper master or vallejo paints though, I think that they flow really well on their own, and just help them along with my gunk. There is my two cents worth
  5. The agitator in this bottle is a hematite bead, which isn't reactive to water as far as I know because it's basically a polished rock that they find in water anyway. I also have them in some other bottles that don't do it. And as well the Bloddy red color which does it just as bad as that blue has a stainless steel nut in it. I bought both colors at the same time from the same place here in Halifax. Oh and the pool in the picture isn't whre I got the paint on the brush from, I got the paint in that pic from a pool that was mixed over non metallic paint. And it does it no matter what pallette option I try. It's probably just bad paint. This is the only problem with "bad" paint that I've had in the 18 months that I've been painting so I don't think I'm doing too bad
  6. I've tried a flat pallette, my wet pallette with a new parchment paper, and a new well in a dimple pallette. All the same. in the case of the pic, it was on top of old paint actually. I never thought of that. But my wet pallette does it too. Ah well.... I'll just have to buy some new paint, which is always a treat
  7. The pic shows thinned paint with distilled water only. And it does it with brushes of all age and condition. My series 7 are always cleaned with masters brush cleaner, so they should be okay. The brush in my pic is a mixing one, but even that I clean all of the time. After about a minute the paint on the pallette looks separated, but not chunky like on the brush more like an even marbelling pattern of white streaks and the color gets a little darker. I just assume that I have some bad bottles. They were all bought from the same guy on the same day. I just hope that all of the people in the city that bought from him don't have bad paint. I would also like to thank people for their responses. I really appreciate it a lot. Everyone is so nice James
  8. I thought that I'd take a picture of the effect I'm talking about. Note that the blue underneith is not the pool that I picked the paint up from, I didn't realize that i was photographing over dry blue paint . This is a VGC blue and it's thinned around 2:1 water to paint. I think you might be able to see what I mean from the pic.
  9. I would say I'm thinning it at least 2:1 paint to water. And the bits were small enough to look gritty, but I honestly couldn't tell. It is white colored like the goop that forms in a bottle that hasn't been shaken in a few days. It takes about 5 or 6 seconds for it to appear, it's quicker if there is less paint on the brush. And it also gets sped along if I'm applying the color to the mini. Which is why I asked if it was separating from the binder because I thought that if there was say only a half full brush then the rest of the pigment was getting sucked up the brush by capilliary action and it was leaving the base on "top" of the hairs. Does that make sense? James
  10. I have a wierd question for the pros here. What does it look like when the pigment falls out of the paint on brush. It's with a competitors paint, vallejo game color but I've had it before I discovered reaper. When I thin it any, after about 5 seconds there are a bunch of little white colored bits all through the hairs of the brush. It's doing it with several colors, blues and reds, and I'm only using water to thin it. I have an agitator in the bottle and shook the living daylights out of the bottle. Am I doing something wrong, or is this paint known for separating. Is model color any different? James
  11. I figured that might be the problem. Can anyone tell me how the various brush on matt coatings work? I have tried RMS sealer and it works pretty good, but sometimes I have a hard time getting it to matt shine down.
  12. I use testors, but there have been times when I've noticed it fogging. I think it's hit or miss (I'm in canada by the way if that matters). When it does work though it really works. I also have tried krylon and find that it works okay but isn't as dull as testors. I have never seen yellowing, even in miniatures that I have had varnished for over a year now though. Has anyone else had testors fog up really bad on them?
  13. You can buy flow improver at fine art stores. The reduce surface tension and allow the paint to flow off of your brush easier. I use it all of the time and they work great. I've also heard that a little dish soap in your paint water will help to do the same thing... but I've never tried it. A fellow Canadian. It's great to hear about another Canadian in the hobby.
  14. Well as per the pro advice I cut down on the retarder, in fact I cut it out. I switched back to the old wet pallette and I must say that it seems to be working. The paint is much less glossy. I just keep distilled water and flow aid in a little dropper (20% flow aid) and just mix a little of it in on the wet pallette. It can be a pain using the we pallette but it does kinda work for me. Does anyone else use one? I also begain wattering down the sealer and it makes it duller. I really appreciate all of the advice you guys give. It's so friendly in here James
  15. I use liquitex addatives in my painting (slodri and flowaid) and the RMS paints that I've been using have been comming out glossy but if I paint without the addatives they are more matte. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? Is there one of the two that is causing it? Has anyone else had this problem? And are there any other brands that could help? I have tried like 4 coats of RMS sealer to no avail, although it does seem to be a strong sealer I would appreciate any help on this manner. Sorry for all of the short questions. Thanks James
  16. I have what might be an obvious question. Does anyone else notice that when in an air conditioned environment even it the brush is full, sometimes there will just be no flow off of the tip of the brush. I fid it awefully hard to get a fine line in the summer, when I'm cooling off the room. I try extra slo-dri but it just doesn't seem to help. Like I said, it's probably a very rookie question. I do get by though. Thanks.
  17. I keep my gunk in a dropper bottle but for some reason I find that the drops of water are actually bigger than the drops of paint. Does anyone else find this when they actually use drops of gunk? I use liquitex addatives as well and I find that for high thining solutions 4:1 or greater that 20% flow aid is rough on the paint film. But I could be imagining this I would try 10% flow aid instead. It's mostly all taste though. Also I find that the amount of thin paint on the brush is very important for layering. I have the brush full, but never to the point where the bristles lose their "dry shape" It's kind of hard to explain I guess. You want there to be enough to allow the pigment to flow off but not so much as it will flow into a pool on the surface of the mini. Well that's my two cents worth.
  18. Hello, I just finished the bone and skin on this dood. I only used the three colors in the MSP triad on the bone, and I think it turned out okay. It's still a little glossy but the dull coat will fix that later.
  19. I wonder how easy it is to stip these... I have a couple of packs from when they first started and wouldn't mind trying to paint them. I use brake fluid to strip "regular" minis. Mabey I should dunk one and give it a try.
  20. This is awesome, I was hoping to get an interesting conversation going and I think I did. I'm really glad that my post got so many replies Like I said I don't think that you can really answer the question, but hearing people's opinions on the matter is really great I personally look at the whole hobby as a form of art, which means it's all up to taste. I lean myself more to developing style/"flavour" of each piece that I'm working on. Some of the minis that I'm most proud of aren't the smoothest blended or highlighted in the best way. And if you look at some styles of painting like the Foundry way, the layering is very abrupt and sharp, without any real blending but it looks very beautiful to see a squad painted clean and sharp in that style. James
  21. Still need to finish the base. I think I took a better pic this time too.
  22. This figure is how you get him from GW. He is one in a series of new chaplain figures that were release just recently. They are made to look like ancient armor I do beleive. And yes I think that you're right, rivets to seem to denote some sort of age for the armor. And I beleive in the fluff that chaplains are supposed wear ancient suits or armor that have been passed down through the ages. I did add the jumpack in myself though. It's from captain Shrike, a raven guard figure. I do have rivets that you can add to models, that do not look too big. They are plastic and are made for model trains. They are teeny-tiny. I suggest getting them from a hobby store that sells model trains and planes and such. I've seen a lot of people use plastic card punch outs for rivets but they can be too big like you said. I'm still a little new to 40k as well but do like it... the models are far far far too expensive though. This guy was like 20 bucks canadian! I'm really getting sick of the prices with that company. But enough of that rant James
  23. Just a GW chaplain that I'm working on. I'd love any suggestions
  24. Hello everyone, I'm not sure if this question has been posed on here before as I'm very new, and I know it cannot really be answered. I was wondering what people this is more important in miniature painting, technique or style. I personally think that style far outweighs technical matters. I think it's much more important to have good color selection, contrast and such over say smooth blending or light sourcing. What does everyone think? James
  25. Hello, I'm pretty new to reaper products, and I absolutely love em. The MSPs that I bought are amazing, truely amazing. There is only one color that I bought that I seem to be having any problems with at all. The pure black seems to have poor covering ability. I thinned it my normal amount but it still had a really hard time covering the white primer underneith. I might just be a little inexperienced as I have only tried one black paint before (GW). Is this just a normal characteristic of this color? It's not a big deal to me, cause it's still really great for darkening shade colors, which is what I will usually be using it for. I tried both of the bottles that I bought with the same result. On the other hand the pure white is better than GW by far. It was so creamy and even when thinned it covered a black eye socket really well. I expect that I will be replacing all of my paints with MSPs. Reaper you have found a new friend in me
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